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36zp48p

Discussion in 'Televisions' started by longleyc, Aug 27, 2005.

  1. longleyc

    longleyc
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    Comments from owners of the 36zp48p regarding picture quality required. I checked the review but found no answer to my query.

    As yet, Im awaiting my component cables to check out the dvd on this.

    I found the colours of the tv to be great and the little geometry issues sorted through the service menu and Menu set up.
    However I read that analogue tv reception through this tv is not a great asset and I agree.
    I find that I can see what i would describe as noise showing on the screen, but it only affects dark grey or black areas of the picture and that changes dependant on the broadcast. For example the bbc/itv news is quite clear of this effect. It doesnt seem to effect red/white bright areas, its prob there but the effect seems less on those areas.
    Its not noise similar to artefacting, but more like signal noise, akin to when a tv isnt quite getting the perfect reception. But as i say some broadcasts are clearer than others. :lesson: ?

    I intend to connect a freeview box and test the picture quality and check the component dvd quality. I suppose then that will show up if its a reception noise or a digital processing issue thats common with some 36" w/s tv`s. I come from a 28" 4:3 to a 36 w/s so maybe thats another reason. Smaller screens just appear to have a tighter resolution :smashin:

    Any comments?
     
  2. longleyc

    longleyc
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    At last the high quality component leads and coaxial digital lead arrived. Mummy2 on component was awesome and the sound rocked in my small living room. (If you have an av amp stick with it for larger rooms, get the 36zp46p instead, save £50.)

    However, i need to connect a freeview input to test the picture further. Analogue broadcasts are patchy, I thinks its signal noise which gives a grainy picture/ghosting.

    Any comments over freeview/cable vs the anaolgue tv tuner?
     
  3. anephric

    anephric
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    Have you tried using the Tosh's modes stripped of digital processing? I believe sticking it in Natural removes "360 Motion Estimation" and in addition making brightness/contrast alterations from Picture Mode 3 disables SVM (or VSM, whatever).

    Using the Tosh's deinterlaced pseudo "Progressive" mode also strips some digital processing away, if you can deal with the 50hz.
     
  4. longleyc

    longleyc
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    Thanks anephric.
    I never knew those modes changed things.
    I made the essential adjustments in Picture-M mode.
    I will make the same adjustments in Mode 3.
    I use Natural anyway but switch to Active for football. Theres not much difference!

    I assumes the Progressive mode was for use with progressive DVD. I switched to that mode but not really noticed anything, but i will try with Picture Mode 3.

    I think the next step is digital signal from Freeview. Reviews mention the analogue signal isnt the greatest.
    But watching SKY 401 football on a Samsung widescreen made me wince. It was awful. Switching on this Tosh at home just showed me how great this tv really is :)

    Thanks for the tips. I will try those.
     
  5. anephric

    anephric
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    The "Progressive" mode you can switch on (alongside Active, Natural, 100hz) is a fake progressive mode - it just deinterlaces any source, it doesn't have to be fed through component hence be a true progressive input. That's why, when you flip to it, you'll still have picture options that get deactivated when the TV goes into its "true" progressive mode.

    So, you get a picture without noticeable scan lines. It is softer, though, and it is 50hz.
     
  6. chedmaster

    chedmaster
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    this isnt the same 50hz as interlaced, many people make this mistake.

    you will see less (next to none) flicker on progressive mode than 100hz interlaced. take advantage of having a built in de-interlacer and USE it!

    every progressive signal is de-interlaced im afraid until HD comes a long, dvd players with progressive output are de-interlacing (some do a very good job and restore the film's progressive nature but thats another story)

    with 50hz progressive you see 50 fields per second. with 50hz interlaced you see 25 fields per second = flicker. with 100hz interlaced you see 50 fields per second but its just rubbish to be honest.
     
  7. chedmaster

    chedmaster
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    by the way my toshiba has the same modes so im not just guessing :)
     
  8. anephric

    anephric
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    Oh, I do (it's my default viewing mode) and I can't see any flicker. I was just saying some people might.

    True 50hz progressive is rubbish on my 36ZP38, btw. You'd have to be blind to not see the flicker...
     
  9. chedmaster

    chedmaster
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    mine doesnt do 50hz progressive via a direct input, but i know that putting the toshibas into progress mode on normal tv gives a giant leap in PQ even if you dont notice it at first, your eyes will be less tired etc. go and watch a 50hz interlaced after a few days with progressive! (not aiming this at you anephric just people in general :) )
     
  10. anephric

    anephric
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    My dvd player (Panny E85) even has a warning in the documentation stating that if you try and output 576p to a progressive CRT it'll be flickery.

    Which it is :p Faaaar worse than interlaced 50hz flicker. On static dvd menus and the like it's like watching a zoetrope.
     
  11. per-Sony-fied

    per-Sony-fied
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    While I do not own this set I do own a Panny with progressive and while the picture does without a doubt look better it is also very noticable the flicker so I do not use it for TV viewing, only component DVD where the flicker is NON exsistant.

    I agree with you here regarding the *fields* but I can't watch a TV which noticably flickers so I use 100Hz processing for normal TV instead. Why this should be the case I'm not to sure but it is very clear the difference.
     
  12. cluster

    cluster
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    My 36ZP48 is taking some time to osrt out in terms of what is right for what input. I just started using component for DVD in Progressive (DVD) mode and the picture is definately clearer than Scart RGB...not hugely so but noticeable very quickly when looking at bright text on a dvd menu for example.

    Fo Telewest viewing I have no major complaints so far. Footbal is a little worse as each player has a sort of artefact body halo around him. Not sure how to resolve this but if I sit further away (9ft plus) then it isn't all that noticable.

    Still fiddling with the Pioneer 575 dvd to see if I can improve the picture further but one thing I am not really noticing is the vastly improved black definition you are supposed to get using progressive/component..anyone any ideas on a best fit?
     
  13. longleyc

    longleyc
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    Changes to the Picture modes 1,2,3 always revert back to the defaults im afraid. Only Picture M remembers the changes as to the recommended settings.
    Though I can change to the Mode3 and just stick to it but need to change it if I switch off again. I didnt really notice less digital processing on Mode3.
    All the modes except 100HZ are not much different. I assumed it being a 100hz tv that was the default. Natural is not 100hz?

    I have reset the Contrast, Brightness and Colour values for analogue ariel input. 53, 53, 51 Seems to make for better viewing from analogue signals.

    Im perusing the available digital pvrs so I can input digital via rgb scart. Has to be better than analogue, but its is very good compared to 99% of every other tv I ever saw.
     
  14. cluster

    cluster
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    I would agree with you. Settings are also very personal and what one like another will not and it also depends very much on the light in your room, reflections, direct sunlight etc.

    My settings I would always say are quitte dark. When I use THX disc I always have problems with seeing all the black boxes on the brightness/contrast tests...but this is my preference so it works for me. I also sometimes use the black stretch for some dvds/sources as the picture look sbetter using it for some programmes and channels.

    Guess it is all taste really and that makes it difficult to do a like for like comparison...again sometimes this is why I tend not to listen too much to articles in the media about reviews...would rather try it out myslef if the set or dvd etc gets a decent review and use forums like this to get the views of real world users.
     
  15. Vnb

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    I stand to be corrected but as I understand it and the way it appears to work is that each of the 3 modes have different default settings for contrast,colour etc and different processing associated. When you change any of these modes the changes are saved as picture mode M. If you select any off the picture modes after you have made changes it shows you their defaults, but will revert to your saved settings by selecting M, unless of course you start editing any of the modes again.

    regards,
    vnb
     
  16. longleyc

    longleyc
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    Thanks for all your useful input guys.

    So M is the changes to Mode3 I made but Mode3 will show defaults, by default?
    What are the processing differences of the 1,2,3 modes? Not in the manual imho.

    I think it very relative to the room, signal type and personal tastes.
    I found my settings done on Mode3 with Progressive, DNR on and Cool irons out the noise from analogue signals, viewed from 6-9ft.
    If I sit in the garden its a great picture!
     

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