Note to other AVF members The OP is a beginner. Responding to this thread has reminded me of how baffling all this can seem when you're starting from zero.
Choosing the system that suits you is not a simple or easy thing to do but you'll get loads of help on this forum, and have already had some great advice from
@gibbsy,
@Paul7777x,
@3rdignis and
@Jester1066.
Prices in Demark are about +10% on UK prices.
Your original suggestion was :-
NAD C338 amplifier 5499 DKK = 715 euro
Dali Oberon 3 speakers 4398 DKK = 572 euro
Dali C-8D sub 2999 DKK = 390 euro
Total 12896 DKK = 1677 euro
Cables and possibly stands will be needed.
Suggested Systems
System 1 Active as suggested by
@Paul7777x. I should warn you that he is a Dynaudio fanboi
1.1 Dynaudio LYD-5 speakers 6222 DKK = 809 euro
Dynaudio 9S sub 6333 DKK = 823 euro
Topping E30 DAC 1155 DKK = 150 euro
Total 13710 DKK = 1781 euro
1.2 Adam A5X + Sub8 9699 DKK = 1260 euro
Topping E30 DAC 1155 DKK = 150 euro
Total 10854 DKK = 1410 euro
This a very inflexible arrangement with no room for error. I think that since you are a beginner you should go for the traditional passive approach as it's more flexible and most (all?) of the advantages of active outlined by Paul can be achieved by different means.
System 2 Passive stereo
Amplifier - Denon DRA800H 5499DKK = 715 euro Datasheet attached
Speakers - Mission LX2 1499 DKK = 195 euro
Sub SVS SB-1000 Pro, 604 euro.
TOTAL 1514 euro.
Adding miniDSP Dirac Live separately is possible but it's messy and would cost 322, 362 or 872 euro plus cost of calibrated microphone.
System 3 NEW Passive Multichannel with DIRAC room correction
Originally you discounted going multi channel using an AVR on the grounds that you'd prefer better sound quality within your budget.
I'd like to suggest that you consider an AVR, NAD T758
v3i which gives you the same quality, many more facilities, and more options for the future.
But the main reason is to get room correction using Dirac - paper attached. I think the consensus on AVF is that Dirac is the best, other than Lyngdorf's RP, which is very expensive). There are very few stereo amplifiers with room correction and the one's I know of are expensive. To deal with the budget issues I'd suggest 2 stages. A calibrated mic is included and the whole process including integrating the sub would be automatic.
Yes the NAD is 715 euro more expensive than the Denon but I think it will make a much bigger improvement to the sound than spending that money on more expensive speakers, Automatic Dirac Live is worth the price.
AVRs are not usually as good as a stereo amp for music unless you're buying Arcam, Anthem or the other very expensive brands, however the NAD is a hifi standard AVR and is something of a bargain.
The datasheet attached details some of the many facilities and it would act as hub for everything.
It gives you the option of going multichannel and the TV would be connected and any non-stereo soundtrack would be correctly decoded.
I included a link to a review in one of my previous posts.
If my more expensive Marantz AVR died tomorrow I would buy the NAD T758 v3i just to get Dirac..
Stage 1. AVR plus speakers
NAD T758
v3i 10999DKK = 1430 euro
Speakers - Mission LX2 1499 DKK = 195 euro
Total 12498 DKK or 1625 euro.
Stage 2. Subwoofer 604 euro
Stage 3. Speakers that suit you.
Then you could add a centre speaker and surround speakers if you wanted to. The speakers bought in stage one could be used as rear speakers if you wanted something different for the fronts.
Speakers
Choosing speakers. This can be a very difficult task for even those of us with a lot of knowledge and experience.
You have a number of particular issues to contend with.
The first is that you are used to listening on headphones, so the effect of the room is zero. Even if a speaker existed that sounded exactly like your headphones and there were zero room effects they would still likely sound wierd and unsatisfactory. Your brain would require time to adapt.
The second is that you don't have an existing reference point to compare speaker sounds against other than the sound from your TV. Ideally when auditioning speakers I would take my existing speakers to compare against. Audio memory is very short and can't be relied on.
The majority of speaker brand available in the UK are available in Denmark - see links below.
When you start auditioning speakers I expect you'll find night and day differences between a pair at ยฃ150 v ยฃ300. From ยฃ300 to ยฃ600 it may be more subtle but still audible and significant.
They might sound different but is it better ? And what is better ?
When you audition take some of your music that you know really well. Don't feel that you need to buy anything just because the dealer spent some time with you.
Speaker solution
What I suggest is that you buy a cheaper temporary pair of speakers say Mission LX2 1499 DKK = 195 euro
Kompakt hรธjttalere online | 3 รฅrs garanti | Gratis Fragt to get you started and provide a reference for future speaker auditions. They don't need to have bass as that will be provided by the sub so they can be smaller and cheaper than you originally thought. Or you could jump in with The Dali Oberon 1 - but that's risking making a more expensive mistake.
Whatever temporary speaker you buy should have reviews on the web so that you have a description of how the speakers sound. If that review is from a reviewer who is still reviewing current speakers that might be your future choice of speaker would be ideal.
You then have time to work out how you would like your ideal speakers to sound in comparison to the temp speakers -for example more/ less detail, a heavier midbass or whatever. Then armed with that information plus your temp speakers as a reference you would audition for your ideal speakers.
What you buy could be sold for about 50% of the new price, or could be used in another room or be rear speakers in a surround system.
We don't need to get hung up on the precise kit to buy for each of options. All you need to decide now is which of the 3 system approaches you favour. The detail can come later.
I realise that I've thrown a lot of information at you. Please ask as many questions as you like and take as much time as you need.
A few random thoughts:-
Something twice the price isn't usually twice as good unless it's at the bottom of the market. The law of diminishing returns applies and it's up to you to decide whether any improvement is worth the cost.
There is a lot of nonsense (snake oil) in hifi. For example regarding cables. As a guide for your budget you should be spending 10% or less on them but they do need to be properly specified - we'll help when you're at that stage.
There are many ludicrous claims and marketing spin - remember, they all want your money. Many are based on half understood theory or outdated information or are simply impossible. For example a Denon CD player claims "that it can restore information that was lost during the recording". Just think about that for a minute !
Hi-Res audio - the latest way of parting people from their money. CD standard (16bit 44.1kHz) is generally good enough because it was chosen to match the limits of human hearing.
Have a look in the Reviews section here. Reviews are useful but only as a guide, only you can decide and I've frequently found that I like something completely different to what I thought I wanted.
Here are links to the shops I've used.
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