2 speaker + amp combo in the $1500 range

Baron Mole

Active Member

dezzadk

Standard Member
Yeah $1500 is probably what I would be expecting, but I would be willing to go upwards of $2050 10-13k danish, if we still assemble without sub

EDIT: yes haha I thought so to, I used google to convert sq meter to sq ft.
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
I'm getting confused.
4.3m wide (probably double as long), 26m2
That doesn't compute. We need to know all the actual dimensions width, length and height because this affects both the amp power and speaker/sub that's needed - especially important for your musical tastes.

Yeah $1500 is probably what I would be expecting, but I would be willing to go upwards of $2050 10-13k danish, if we still assemble without sub
Just to confirm - the Budget is 10-13,000 DKK which is 1300- 1690 Euro or Β£1200-1560. This is a UK based forum so $ mean nothing to me !

I probably won't be back on the forum for 24 hours.
 

dezzadk

Standard Member
I'm getting confused.

That doesn't compute. We need to know all the actual dimensions width, length and height because this affects both the amp power and speaker/sub that's needed - especially important for your musical tastes.


Just to confirm - the Budget is 10-13,000 DKK which is 1300- 1690 Euro or Β£1200-1560. This is a UK based forum so $ mean nothing to me !

I probably won't be back on the forum for 24 hours.
Alright I will do the measurements tomorrow. Yes I think thats what I'm willing to spend right now.
 

Baron Mole

Active Member
Alright here's the measurements :)

4.3m Width
2.3m Height
5.85m Length
Thanks for that and your patience. I'm working on the reply and will get back to you soon.
 

Baron Mole

Active Member
Welcome back ! I've now had time to consider your requirements. You seem to have done your research well in choosing the NAD C338 - especially for use with a sub.

I've created this post to see if there are any alternatives
Alternatives to NAD C338 with sub management & wifi streaming ? Β£600 ish

I've also now watched the Darko vid you posted. I actually have a set of Mission LX2 Mark 1 although they're not being used at present. For the price they are very good but I think you are looking for higher quality than in that vid.

In his 1000 euro system Darko suggests the NAD C316BEE at 399 euro plus the Allo Boss 2 at 205 euro total 604 euro. The C338 is 5499DKK about 715 euro and is worth the extra for it's sub management ability alone, which I have put in the above post.
 

Baron Mole

Active Member
Good morning.


Choosing the system that suits you is not a simple or easy thing to do but you'll get loads of help on this forum, and have already had some great advice.

I would suggest that you increase your understanding of the various terminologies and issues involved so here's a link to site that can give you a hifi 101 in 6 parts,
Hi-Fi 101 Part 1: Introduction - Audio Appraisal

Please could tell me where you live and what hifi dealers you could visit to audition equipment ? Links to their websites would be very helpful.
Are you able to travel to other cities, and which ?

The reason for asking this is that there's no point in me suggesting equipment that you can't listen to.
 

Baron Mole

Active Member
Thanks a lot I appreciate the help man! Very nice of you!

Yes for audio output from PC. Streaming from phone would be nice but not a dealbreaker really if PC and TV is hooked up.


I need more detail on this. Is this an analogue output ? Does it have digital outputs - either Coax or optical ? Can it stream wirelessly ? Might be easier just to tell me the PC make and model.

What phone do you use ? Also what streaming service - like Spotify Qubuz etc. Is it a paid for service ? Do you have any plans to use other services ?

What system are you currently using to listen ? This will give me some idea of the quality you're used to.
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
If you haven't already seen it this video is useful to debunk some hifi myths

The word to note is BELIEVE. There's a lot of nonsense around hifi. What Darko shows is that he's read or been told something and then believed. After spending loads of money unneccessarily he's finally realised what he believed was rubbish.

Here you're in the right place to avoid this rubbish (well, mainly :rotfl: ).
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
Welcome back - was starting to worry we'd scared you off :D

I've given you a lot of "homework" to do. I hope it's useful and you enjoy it.

I've now had time to think about your requirements - so the next thing to send you is my proposed solutions.

Rather than deluge you with more stuff, let me know when you're ready for me to send it.
 

dezzadk

Standard Member
In his 1000 euro system Darko suggests the NAD C316BEE at 399 euro plus the Allo Boss 2 at 205 euro total 604 euro.
Yes, I took this amp out of my consideration because no digital, no sub. It seems very basic and very limited in what it will match to both when it comes to reuse and resell value. The Argon SA1 seems better for that price-range.
I need more detail on this. Is this an analogue output ? Does it have digital outputs - either Coax or optical ? Can it stream wirelessly ? Might be easier just to tell me the PC make and model.
Regarding PC its built-in soundcard has
  1. audio jacks (Center/Subwoofer Speaker Out, Rear Speaker Out, Line In, Line Out, Mic In)
  2. optical S/PDIF Out connector
And I think I would get JACK > RCA a cable (not a y-split cable with connections) for start to the PC and align speakers, amp and TV. Potentially use optical between TV and amp because I read it can auto turn on some amps.

What phone do you use ? Also what streaming service - like Spotify Qubuz etc. Is it a paid for service ? Do you have any plans to use other services ?
I have a newer iPhone XS, V-MODA DAC was the only dongle that could produce clear sound last time I looked.

I don't use any streaming services it feels like a prison I have no control over I've given up on all of them due to their terrible smartphone app playlist management and I've tried all Tidal, Apple Music, Google Music, Spotify, Deezer.

They all have the same disappointments in count of taps it takes to perform playlist management (try to record in your head how many taps and manual search / eye-strain it takes to remove a currently playing song in a playlist with 1000 tracks on spotify, you literally have to scroll down to find the highlighted green song and do 5+ taps and confirm, madness!).

Therefore I have decided to pay for whatever incredible music I stumble upon via bandcamp and manage and host it all myself, but I do understand people that can live with it and listen to an album or two at a time. I almost always try to listen to new music myself and compose my favorites together in genres and style.
What system are you currently using to listen ? This will give me some idea of the quality you're used to.
Mostly I use my headphones Ultrasone Pro 900 and DAC Leckerton Audio UHA6S.MKII and 320 CBR or FLAC usually.


I'll keep you updated when I have visited the store :) Thanks a lot for your help again everyone, I learned a ton!
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
Thanks very much for that crucial information.

Therefore I have decided to pay for whatever incredible music I stumble upon via bandcamp and manage and host it all myself, but I do understand people that can live with it and listen to an album or two at a time. I almost always try to listen to new music myself and compose my favorites together in genres and style.
Mostly I use my headphones Ultrasone Pro 900 and DAC Leckerton Audio UHA6S.MKII and 320 CBR or FLAC usually.

The sound you're used to mainly a function of the headphones. I've read some reviews and got the impression that they are strongly "voiced" (meaning that they are not neutral) being particularly good for your style of music.

It would be helpful if you could tell me what you like about their sound, what you dislike and what sort of improvements in quality you are looking for, so I can make my recommendations more suitable for you.

I'll keep you updated when I have visited the store :) Thanks a lot for your help again everyone, I learned a ton!
And there's always more to learn ! Information is Power !! :thumbsup:

Do you know when you'll visit the store yet ? Just so I can make sure I have some time free.

Finally - Don't forget to
I've now had time to think about your requirements - so the next thing to send you is my proposed solutions.

Rather than deluge you with more stuff, let me know when you're ready for me to send it.
Enjoy your trip to the store :smashin::)
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
THE FINAL (PROBABLY :D ) LESSON

Choosing the system that suits you is not a simple or easy thing to do but you'll get loads of help on this forum.

There is no right or wrong - it's all about finding what works for you and your ears, your room and musical tastes.

The biggest effects on sound quality listed in order of importance are

1. The room
2. The speakers and their positioning
3. The quality of the original master recording

The ROOM.
The room has the greatest effect on the sound you hear but is the most difficult to control.
The sound you hear in a room is made up of the direct sounds from the speakers plus reflected sounds.
It's the reflected sounds that cause the problems and it's the bass that's mainly affected.
This is because of room modes/nodes. Put simply it's when either the direct and indirect sounds cancel producing a null - a dip in the frequency response, or add producing a boost. Sound absorbers like carpets curtains and sofas also have an effect. The result is a frequency response that looks like a zig-zag line. This is one reason why speakers that sounded great at a dealers can sound bad at home.

There is a fix for this problem - room correction built into the amplifier. This has become has become much better during the last decade.

The main systems, listed in order of increasing desireability - and generally increasing price, are
YPAO (Yamaha),
Audyssey (used by many),
ARC (Anthem Room Correction, exclusive),
Dirac and
RP (Room Perfect which is exclusive to Lyngdorf).
All use a microphone to measure the room and then apply correction.


To see the effects of Dirac room correction look at the graphs in the review below.
NAD T 758 V3 AV Surround Sound Receiver Review - HomeTheaterHifi.com

Subwoofer

I think we have all agreed with you that you should have a subwoofer.

A few facts - Bottom C on a piano is 16.35 Hz. A lot of the LFE effects on film soundtracks is in the 20-30Hz range or lower !
The frequency range quoted for speakers falls away quite steeply after the lower figure.
Low frequencies require more power than higher ones.

For any good system I'd recommend a proper subwoofer and that's especially appropriate for your musical tastes. Firstly it covers the bottom 2 octaves (16-32Hz and 32-64Hz) and higher (usually about 120Hz) if you want and secondly it's the bass frequencies that use the most power and subs have powerful amplifiers. The sub does the "heavy lifting" and means the amplifier doesn't need to be work as hard so there's more headroom for dynamic peaks. Another thing to consider is that the human ear becomes less sensitive to bass frequencies at lower volume - hence loudness controls - subs have the power to cope with the additional bass boost. Having a sub also means that the front speakers don't need bass, so that they can be smaller and cheaper.

The SVS sub previously mentioned is very good and suitable for systems that cost several times your budget. A sub is potentially the one thing you could buy without auditioning it. It will perform better than the Dali E-12F which is more expensive.
 
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dezzadk

Standard Member
The sound you're used to mainly a function of the headphones. I've read some reviews and got the impression that they are strongly "voiced" (meaning that they are not neutral) being particularly good for your style of music.

It would be helpful if you could tell me what you like about their sound, what you dislike and what sort of improvements in quality you are looking for, so I can make my recommendations more suitable for you.
I haven't listened to even 10 proper headphones so I wouldn't know for sure.

But as another reviewer put it the bass / room in them is special and I agree.

Friends who listen to the same music instantly gives thumbs up when they hear them, whenever I meet a guy with interest in audio I let them hear my music on it and they get pretty impressed.

They do not have the clearest mids especially at mid volume on my DAC. The bass is round, punchy.

I actually tried AutoEQ's premade equalizer presets for flattening the sound today. Out of the 3 presets I found referenceaudioanalyzer_Ultrasone PRO 900 GraphicEQ to be the best sounding. To me it keeps the bass that you love out of the box on these headphones, the others sound a bit too flattened and especially innerfidelity_Ultrasone_Pro_900_GraphicEQ which was the worst of the three. They were applied in Equalizer APO without any preamp as per readme its not required as the GraphicEQ-format has variables for it (supposedly).

I did see an improvement in sound, a better balance between low,mid,high. But I will have to test more to reach a conclusion.

The main systems, listed in order of increasing desireability - and generally increasing price, are
YPAO (Yamaha),
Audyssey (used by many),
ARC (Anthem Room Correction, exclusive),
Dirac and
RP (Room Perfect which is exclusive to Lyngdorf).
All use a microphone to measure the room and then apply correction.
I saw many people use a miniDSP when I looked for opportunities to EQ and learned it could also be used for room correction, which I need to read up on. In the end I think what I want in the future when I'm settled is a 3 knob like the Loki Mini Plus, I looked at Lokius too, but I think the best part is quickly being able to add lows, mids or high. Because my music is too vastly different in mastering and sometimes its vinyl rips or premixed as in tracks overlap and maybe have a tone by the DJ.

Subwoofer


I think we have all agreed with you that you should have a subwoofer.
Yes I think with how much lows fill my listening space its a must. But for now I need to get the speakers and get used to using them. Your sub recommendations seem reasonable, cheaper than buying a matching set, so if its available by the time I'm ready to invest I will definetily get that.
 

Baron Mole

Active Member
In the end I think what I want in the future when I'm settled is a 3 knob like the Loki Mini Plus
You can't add this to an amp unless it has a full tape loop system. I suppose you could put it between the pc and amp using the analogue outputs - but the you'd be using the DAC in the pc rather than using the optical out to the DAC in the amp. Also it's about 150 euro.

They were applied in Equalizer APO without any preamp as per readme its not required as the GraphicEQ-format has variables for it (supposedly).
I think you are the right track using software on the PC as tone controls on the songs before they they go to the amp. You could get some sort of audio file editor and correct the tracks permanently.
But these sort of DJ like facilities are way out of my comfort zone. I'll leave it you to find a solution - some sort of digital DJ mixer between the PC and amp ???
I saw many people use a miniDSP when I looked for opportunities to EQ and learned it could also be used for room correction, which I need to read up on.
I think minidsp uses Dirac and the entry cost is about $449. It would have to be placed between your PC and the amp. So would only room correct sources from the PC.

I really don't like all these extra boxes and costs and am starting to wonder whether you want hifi or a DJ setup.

I'm going to send my system suggestions to you now since one of my suggestions has Dirac built in.
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
Note to other AVF members The OP is a beginner. Responding to this thread has reminded me of how baffling all this can seem when you're starting from zero.

Choosing the system that suits you is not a simple or easy thing to do but you'll get loads of help on this forum, and have already had some great advice from @gibbsy, @Paul7777x, @3rdignis and @Jester1066.

Prices in Demark are about +10% on UK prices.

Your original suggestion was :-

NAD C338 amplifier 5499 DKK = 715 euro
Dali Oberon 3 speakers 4398 DKK = 572 euro
Dali C-8D sub 2999 DKK = 390 euro
Total 12896 DKK = 1677 euro

Cables and possibly stands will be needed.


Suggested Systems

System 1 Active
as suggested by @Paul7777x. I should warn you that he is a Dynaudio fanboi
Emoji


1.1 Dynaudio LYD-5 speakers 6222 DKK = 809 euro
Dynaudio 9S sub 6333 DKK = 823 euro
Topping E30 DAC 1155 DKK = 150 euro
Total 13710 DKK = 1781 euro

1.2 Adam A5X + Sub8 9699 DKK = 1260 euro
Topping E30 DAC 1155 DKK = 150 euro
Total 10854 DKK = 1410 euro

This a very inflexible arrangement with no room for error. I think that since you are a beginner you should go for the traditional passive approach as it's more flexible and most (all?) of the advantages of active outlined by Paul can be achieved by different means.

System 2 Passive stereo

Amplifier - Denon DRA800H 5499DKK = 715 euro Datasheet attached
Speakers - Mission LX2 1499 DKK = 195 euro
Sub SVS SB-1000 Pro, 604 euro.
TOTAL 1514 euro.

Adding miniDSP Dirac Live separately is possible but it's messy and would cost 322, 362 or 872 euro plus cost of calibrated microphone.

System 3 NEW Passive Multichannel with DIRAC room correction

Originally you discounted going multi channel using an AVR on the grounds that you'd prefer better sound quality within your budget.

I'd like to suggest that you consider an AVR, NAD T758 v3i which gives you the same quality, many more facilities, and more options for the future. But the main reason is to get room correction using Dirac - paper attached. I think the consensus on AVF is that Dirac is the best, other than Lyngdorf's RP, which is very expensive). There are very few stereo amplifiers with room correction and the one's I know of are expensive. To deal with the budget issues I'd suggest 2 stages. A calibrated mic is included and the whole process including integrating the sub would be automatic.

Yes the NAD is 715 euro more expensive than the Denon but I think it will make a much bigger improvement to the sound than spending that money on more expensive speakers, Automatic Dirac Live is worth the price.

AVRs are not usually as good as a stereo amp for music unless you're buying Arcam, Anthem or the other very expensive brands, however the NAD is a hifi standard AVR and is something of a bargain.

The datasheet attached details some of the many facilities and it would act as hub for everything.
It gives you the option of going multichannel and the TV would be connected and any non-stereo soundtrack would be correctly decoded.

I included a link to a review in one of my previous posts.

If my more expensive Marantz AVR died tomorrow I would buy the NAD T758 v3i just to get Dirac..


Stage 1. AVR plus speakers

NAD T758 v3i 10999DKK = 1430 euro
Speakers - Mission LX2 1499 DKK = 195 euro
Total 12498 DKK or 1625 euro.

Stage 2. Subwoofer 604 euro

Stage 3. Speakers that suit you.

Then you could add a centre speaker and surround speakers if you wanted to. The speakers bought in stage one could be used as rear speakers if you wanted something different for the fronts.

Speakers

Choosing speakers. This can be a very difficult task for even those of us with a lot of knowledge and experience.

You have a number of particular issues to contend with.

The first is that you are used to listening on headphones, so the effect of the room is zero. Even if a speaker existed that sounded exactly like your headphones and there were zero room effects they would still likely sound wierd and unsatisfactory. Your brain would require time to adapt.

The second is that you don't have an existing reference point to compare speaker sounds against other than the sound from your TV. Ideally when auditioning speakers I would take my existing speakers to compare against. Audio memory is very short and can't be relied on.

The majority of speaker brand available in the UK are available in Denmark - see links below.

When you start auditioning speakers I expect you'll find night and day differences between a pair at Β£150 v Β£300. From Β£300 to Β£600 it may be more subtle but still audible and significant.

They might sound different but is it better ? And what is better ?

When you audition take some of your music that you know really well. Don't feel that you need to buy anything just because the dealer spent some time with you.

Speaker solution

What I suggest is that you buy a cheaper temporary pair of speakers say Mission LX2 1499 DKK = 195 euro Kompakt hΓΈjttalere online | 3 Γ₯rs garanti | Gratis Fragt to get you started and provide a reference for future speaker auditions. They don't need to have bass as that will be provided by the sub so they can be smaller and cheaper than you originally thought. Or you could jump in with The Dali Oberon 1 - but that's risking making a more expensive mistake.

Whatever temporary speaker you buy should have reviews on the web so that you have a description of how the speakers sound. If that review is from a reviewer who is still reviewing current speakers that might be your future choice of speaker would be ideal.

You then have time to work out how you would like your ideal speakers to sound in comparison to the temp speakers -for example more/ less detail, a heavier midbass or whatever. Then armed with that information plus your temp speakers as a reference you would audition for your ideal speakers.

What you buy could be sold for about 50% of the new price, or could be used in another room or be rear speakers in a surround system.

We don't need to get hung up on the precise kit to buy for each of options. All you need to decide now is which of the 3 system approaches you favour. The detail can come later.

I realise that I've thrown a lot of information at you. Please ask as many questions as you like and take as much time as you need.

A few random thoughts:-

Something twice the price isn't usually twice as good unless it's at the bottom of the market. The law of diminishing returns applies and it's up to you to decide whether any improvement is worth the cost.

There is a lot of nonsense (snake oil) in hifi. For example regarding cables. As a guide for your budget you should be spending 10% or less on them but they do need to be properly specified - we'll help when you're at that stage.

There are many ludicrous claims and marketing spin - remember, they all want your money. Many are based on half understood theory or outdated information or are simply impossible. For example a Denon CD player claims "that it can restore information that was lost during the recording". Just think about that for a minute !

Hi-Res audio - the latest way of parting people from their money. CD standard (16bit 44.1kHz) is generally good enough because it was chosen to match the limits of human hearing.

Have a look in the Reviews section here. Reviews are useful but only as a guide, only you can decide and I've frequently found that I like something completely different to what I thought I wanted.


Here are links to the shops I've used.

Tape Connection Hi-Fi-butik i HΓΈjbjerg
Audiocompagniet.dk | Fyns Γ¦ldste hi-fi specialforretning
Velkommen til HiFi Klubben
AV-Connection | HiFi, Home Cinema, cables and accessories
Gennemse et bredt udvalg af kvalitetssikrede mærker
 

Attachments

  • Dirac-Live-White-Paper.pdf
    4.7 MB · Views: 8
  • NAD_T-758-V3i_Data-Sheet.pdf
    115.3 KB · Views: 7
  • Denon_DRA-800H_info-sheet EU.pdf
    661.8 KB · Views: 8
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Baron Mole

Active Member

Baron Mole

Active Member
In the end I think what I want in the future when I'm settled is a 3 knob like the Loki Mini Plus,
There are tone controls and customisable preset setting on T758. The tone controls can be directly accessed from the remote and adjusted in real time. There are also further options in Dirac. Have a look at the manual in the link below.

T758 manual

Here's the manual for the Denon -it's a lot bigger ! Have a look at P95 Tone controls. Also it has bass and treble knobs on the front

DRA-800H manual
 
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dezzadk

Standard Member
I think you are the right track using software on the PC as tone controls on the songs before they they go to the amp. You could get some sort of audio file editor and correct the tracks permanently.
But these sort of DJ like facilities are way out of my comfort zone. I'll leave it you to find a solution - some sort of digital DJ mixer between the PC and amp ???
Thanks a lot for your continued effort in bringing me all your thoughts! I appreciate it very much.

You might be right about the EQ, since the majority of the music I listen to will be played (hopefully) from PC and the amp I looked at today in place of the NAD C338 did not have loop, neither did the NAD C338 afaik/remember, so those devices might be out of the question. Also the store clerk mentioned 15.000 DKK for an amp with dirac/room-correction built-in, it sounds out of my budget and reading up on the miniDSP and acquiring later sounds like the way to go, just like the sub.

Dali Oberon 3 speakers 4398 DKK = 572 euro
Store experience

I was totally surprised today when I listened to Oberon 3. Actually I was not that impressed, I went from there with a weird feeling of maybe people aren't hearing the same things I am on the Oberon 3.

First I listened to Argon SA1 and Argon Alto 5 mk2. They played ok until mid-to-high volume, their smaller size seemed to be the main culprit as treble seemed distorted at mid-to-high volume.

Then we tried NAD C338 on Argon Alto 5 mk2. The sound got was slightly better more full, but its a small difference very few people would hear imho.

From there we tried the Powernode Bluesound. It sounded just as good as NAD C338 to me. Store clerk said NAD made the internal amp for the Powernode Bluesound so that might be why I found them very similar (I have not verified this).

The battle then became Dali Oberon 3 vs B&W 606 S2 Anniversary Edition.

Everytime we went back to the Dali Oberon 3 I was put off by the bass and the "shifted" mids/highs as best as I can describe it. It did not sound clear, it sounded more muffled.

We then hooked the Dali Sub E-9 F for the final comparison with a subwoofer attached.

The perceived muffled bass and shifted mids/highs on the Dali Oberon 3 was even more pronounced now that it had a sub between it, actually they did not play very well with the sub at all which totally surprised me, but they disappointed me just as much when it was without sub. Actually I found the Argon Alto 5 mk2 to have a clearer and more neutral sound from low to mid volume until I found their size was probably the limited factor, I could not get that "shifted" audio from Oberon 3 out of my head for the entire day, all my music sounded way different than I had hoped.
 

Baron Mole

Active Member
Thanks for the feedback write up - you've clearly had a very useful day :thumbsup:

What dealer did you visit in which city ?
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
I would rather keep that out of the conversation, but I understand where you're coming from and just trying to help me, so its all good :) The store was hifiklubben.dk
Fine. I have sent you a PM - you'll find it next to your name - envelope icon.
 

dezzadk

Standard Member
In case anyone is wondering these are some of the tracks I played today

ASURA - Life 2
Koan - The Ghost Train (Fiction Mix)
Fourward - Talk To Me
Wizard - Fresh Out The Box
Skeler - Tel Aviv
Skeler - Tokyo
Skream - XMAS Day Swagger
Skream - Blipstream
Proxima - Formal Junction
Delta Heavy - Ghost
Culture Shock - Neighbourhood
Hans Zimmer - Honor Him
Hans Zimmer - Strength And Honor

I'm sure there are a lot of great speakers besides the B&W 606 S2 and especially the Dali Oberon 3 as I witnessed today. My only critisizm of the B&W 606 S2 which was just as bad or worse on the Dali Oberon 3 was high end. Sometimes in a track such as "Skeler - Tokyo" (FLAC btw) between vocals and highly pitched sounds you could hear some jitter on both speakers and easily noticeable between other tracks with similar high frequency sounds.
 
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Baron Mole

Active Member
Everytime we went back to the Dali Oberon 3 I was put off by the bass and the "shifted" mids/highs as best as I can describe it. It did not sound clear, it sounded more muffled.

We then hooked the Dali Sub E-9 F for the final comparison with a subwoofer attached.
I'm not surprised - the Dali sub isn't very good which you can tell just by comparing the spec with the SVS SB1000 Pro - but that's not to suggest that specs always translate to sound quality. Having said that I do wonder whether the sub had been properly integrated with the speakers.
 

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