18" Dayton DIY Build

Discussion in 'DIY Speaker & Subwoofer Building' started by angliaboy, Sep 6, 2018.

  1. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    And so it starts, more to come...
    amplifier.jpg

    Gordy Cabinet Ordered...... Check
    18" Driver Ordered...... Check

    I will update as and when pieces arrive / parts come together

    Researched the Ultimax and Reference Daytons and Went with an 18" Dayton Reference build because I firmly believe this will be the better driver to suit my tastes. Found this hard always wanting the biggest and best thing from a range looking at the ultimax cone I prefer the way it looks, but I believe this sub will give me everything I need, plus a little more musicality to it over the ultimax.

    Not to mention it will work better with the 1000w amp I have to power it. Perhaps not enough in some peoples books but I think it should suffice for my listening levels. If I find it not to be powerful enough I will eventually sell it and go for an inuke, but as Ive said in many posts i need a compact solution for my living arrangement and if I go by WinISD, the 1000w should be more than capable of giving some Good SPL in my Room.

    Meant to add.... thanks to all who have given me advice whilst I've been planning what to do, you've been very helpful
     
  2. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Driver arrived.... yay

    Even being told the dimensions, Nothing quite prepared me for the size of this sub. I mean, I know its 18", but its massive, and feels really nicely made too.
    20180906_103525.jpg 20180906_103629.jpg 20180906_103833.jpg 20180906_104043.jpg

    And may I say this arrived in perfect condition courtesy of soundimports.eu
     
  3. MattSPL

    MattSPL
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    Congrats. Soundimports are great to deal with.
     
  4. nickolp1974

    nickolp1974
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    Yeah there great, where I bought my 2nd peerless from after weeks of hassle trying to sort with digikey.

    Looking forward to your build angliaboy. ;)
     
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  5. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    20180911_104356.jpg Not much been happening - still waiting on deliveries but i have got these custom feet to put on the subwoofer when completed. Also some discs I may put underneath some glass on top of the sub (not sure if I will use just yet)
     
  6. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Unfortunately Hit a slight snag in the road, due to a miscommunication between me and Gordy, the amp cutout has ended up opposite the driver, meaning in its current state I can't use it down firing unless I start cutting into the bracing etc.

    This is no disapproval of Gordy, he is well recommended on this forum and with good reason too, he went to extra lengths to get this sorted and listened to all my requirements on this order. Its just an unfortunate shame

    Going to have a re think on plans etc as already at budget and still need to paint it. (Dont think the unique green colour will pass WAF)

    Suggestions welcome. 20180912_150349.jpg 20180912_150356.jpg
     
  7. MattSPL

    MattSPL
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    Looks like a very well made box with plenty of bracing.
     
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  8. nickolp1974

    nickolp1974
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    Can you not just remove one side of the shorter bracing and jigsaw your amp hole, then cut a square piece of MDF to cover the current amp hole, pita but it's pretty much your only option other than using it in its current format, why can't you by the way?
     
  9. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    There's no amp hole as such, it's just the bracing was done in such a way that I could easily jigsaw out the amp plate in that space with nothing in the way. I would love a front firing sub, but with young kids etc down firing is a must for me.

    Plus it would also mean I need to make a grill of some sort which means more faffing and materials and cost etc.

    I am just going to jigsaw through the bracing, not ideal but not end of the world
     
  10. swiftpete

    swiftpete
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    Can’t you just tell the kids not to touch it? It’s not like the occasional light touch is going to damage the driver anyway. Obviously if you take a hammer to it you’d damage it but that’s not going to happen.
     
  11. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Well the older ones already know the rules but 1 year olds don't tend to listen very well :D
     
  12. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    So what do you guys use for securing driver to MDF? I don't just want to use screws as i prefer to preserve the wood where possible if I ever need to remove the driver. I've seen various suggestions online on what to use but obviosuly want to make sure its suitable for MDF
     
  13. Ringnut

    Ringnut
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    I glued small wood blocks behind each screw in order to provide something more secure to screw into. It's held 69lb LMS 5400 drivers for a number of years now so seems to work well. :)
     
  14. slayerx

    slayerx
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    I would recommend M6 T-nuts, I just finish my Dayton um18, they works perfekt.
     
  15. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Yes but measuring up would say otherwise as the bolt heads for the Allen key bolts are 10mm, but the gap for the bolt head to fit in is 9.5mm at it's largest point so if I wanted to use m6, then I would have to buy a different style bolt head that would sit on top of the rim
     
  16. slayerx

    slayerx
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    Check picture, if you need I can give you links for screews and t nuts.
     

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  17. slayerx

    slayerx
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    And there is picture with t nuts in place.
     

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  18. MattSPL

    MattSPL
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    I used 6mm T nuts and bolts from wilmslow audio on my UM18. They are a perfect fit.
     
  19. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Ok I have a feeling the mounting holes may be different from the reference sub to the ultimax. Please post that link and I'll have a gander
     
  20. MattSPL

    MattSPL
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  21. slayerx

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  22. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Can you guys give me the diameter of the bolt head please?

    See here the surround is slightly different and I think its this causing my problem with M6 bolt heads.

    Dayton Reference
    daytonref1.jpg

    Dayton Ultimax
    daytonult1.jpg

    So it looks as though the ultimax may give a little more room (only short by a couple of mm anyway) for an M6 Allen key bolt head
     
  23. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    dang it, anyone know the best way to remove a borked threaded insert nut from MDF please?
     
  24. MattSPL

    MattSPL
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    Tap it out using a small flat head screwdriver and a pliers or hammer.
     
  25. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Although its taken a while (Work/Kids/Life) here is an update. Almost ready to rumble

    Sub in primer - Zinnser Bullseye (Please excuse the mess in the background)
    20181105_211401_resized.jpg

    1st Coat of tuffcab (Bit patchy)
    20181108_210949_resized.jpg

    I had added some extra quick and dirty bracing after cutting out the hole for the amp

    More tuff cab
    20181108_211002_resized.jpg
    tuff cab wet
    20181108_211006_resized.jpg

    Tuffcab finished and some panel joins slightly visible but mainly because it had a light right above it. They shouldn't (hopefully) be visible in its resting place 20181110_145452_resized.jpg
    Starting to stuff the beast
    20181112_222907_resized.jpg 20181112_222914_resized.jpg

    Absolutely stuffed (Hard to gauge the depth in this photo, there's actually less stuffing than what it looks like) 20181113_101811_resized.jpg
    Threads for the feet
    20181113_114411_resized.jpg
    Amp in place
    20181113_160406_resized.jpg





    So for a first DIY build, some things im happy with and some things Id change.

    Next time I think i will water down the Tuffcab a bit and go with more layers for a slightly smoother finish, I rollered a lot so it would be as smooth as possible as Im not a massive fan of the stippled type finish. It is quite minimal but I definitely wouldn't want it any more pronounced than it is. I did consider getting it professionally painted and had I been confident that the filler would never rear its ugly head I would got it 2k sprayed in satin black, but this way provided me with a little more hands on experience and saved some money too.

    Next time I will layer over the panels with a 3/6mm MDF skin to minimise joins and potential filler holes showing through paint for a smoother finish too.

    Since taking these photos i have just roller over some slight marks i could see in the paint. All in in all I am really happy, am waiting for just one item in the post (hopefully coming later on today) before can finally secure the driver in place.

    Looking forward to being able to listen to this thing
     
  26. swiftpete

    swiftpete
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    Looks nice and at least you don’t have a noisy PA amp sitting in your rack now. Interesting to see a build with a plate amp. When are you building your second?
     
  27. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Yes that was a touch I was worried about the 1000w not being enough but after a quick taster this afternoon I know it shall be plenty.

    Won't be building a second for a while, the wife's first comments were "it's enormous" so I convinced her that people can put drinks on top and that seemed to settle her down a bit. So a second one would be quite a stretch I think until I get a dedicated room.

    Might try to sway her that we need another table by the sofa in the form of a disguised sub.

    I'll get some pics up soon
     
  28. angliaboy

    angliaboy
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    Pics all finished;

    20181115_144135_resized.jpg 20181115_144434_resized.jpg 20181115_144631_resized.jpg 20181115_144641_resized.jpg 20181115_151835_resized.jpg
     
  29. Luminated67

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    For an 18” sub box I’m surprised how modest it’s dimensions are.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2018
  30. swiftpete

    swiftpete
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    Very nice Harry.
     

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