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100x5R spade connectors - where to buy

Discussion in 'TAG McLaren Audio Owners' Forum' started by dambox, Dec 5, 2004.

  1. dambox

    dambox
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    Hi

    I recabled by room and need to get hold of some more spade connectors for the amp. Can anyone help with a source for these in the UK ?

    David
     
  2. Tantalus

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    Call IAG (who bought TMA). They will have some. Go to the old tag website and you can their number.
     
  3. alexs2

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    If you're just looking for good quality(and I mean to go with the quality of your amps)you could also take a look at Kimber or WBT spades,and the former are available from Russ Andrews.

    www.russandrews.com
     
  4. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    The WBT spades are excellent and an excellent match for the TAG gear.
     
  5. Stevesky

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    I use ring connectors rather than spades and Halfords used to stock some that fitted the TAG amps perfectly (they're actually gold plated car battery terminal ring connectors!).

    I prefer them to spades as they don't fall off or get distorted if the cable is pulled and provide a large contact area so should minimise cranky connections in the long term. The Halfords jobbies used to be £3 for two as well... far cheaper than super high markup "hifi" connectors. :D
     
  6. GrahamMG

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    Halford's, hi-fi :rotfl: :rotfl:
    You have been in China too long mate.....
    Having said that they all do the same job, I just can't bring myself to walking into Halfords and having to deal with all those spotty faced kids who insist hi-fi is all cold cathodes and 18" bass units...... It's an assault on the senses....
     
  7. nsfehler

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    Morning all,

    My cables are connected via gold plated bananas..

    Do you think spades are better?.....


    Nigel
     
  8. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    Spades make for a better more secure connection normally.....Clamping the things down tends to be better form a mechanical point of view, don't ask me if they sound better though....so lets not go there.....
     
  9. Teejoo

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    Yep, same here! With these you can still move the amp (putting it back in the cabinet) without cables getting lose. I only use the WBT's on the speaker side.
     
  10. Dr Udo Zucker

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    Hi Nigel, when we did a listening test between spades and banana connectors TMA's (then) Golden Ears found the spades the better connector, most likely because they pick up less RF noise from the surroundings. Hope this helps..
     
  11. nsfehler

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    Thank you Udo,

    I have read a great deal about issues similar to this over the years but a lot tends to end up rather controversial.
    I will give spades a try when I buy my next 250x3R for bi-amping the fronts - yet to hear this, but my dealer says bi-amping is well worth the cost/effort!

    (By the way - great to see your involvement still in the forum).
    You may/may not remember me but we met at the Tag McLaren VIP evening. I trust you and your family are well.

    All the very best
    Nigel
     
  12. Stevesky

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    I thought you would be down there buying a nice set of blue LED's for the washer jets, Night-rider sweeping LED's for the front grill and "Max Power" approved cold cathodes for the underside of your MG! :D

    P*ss taking aside I don't sign up to the theory that banana, spades or ring connectors sound better or worse. I have not seen a scrap of evidence to prove this, including any ABX listening tests done under controlled conditions. There are far more fundamental issues to tackle in the audio chain that make real measureable differences than the shape of your speaker cable connectors! Something that fits the cable and binding post properly and won't oxidise/corrode up in 5 mins should do the trick quite nicely, it doesn't have to be super exotic to meet these requirements.

    Anyway, I must go and soak my speaker connectors in extra virgin snake oil to ensure optimum performance! :laugh:
     
  13. GrahamMG

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    Hi Steve.
    You wouldn't get a cold cathode to stay under the MG, too low/too fast :D :D

    Seriously , I tend to agree with the sound issue which is why I didn't go there...... As long as the connectors stay put and don't short out on anything if they do move is fine with me..... oh and can take 10mmsq cable........ :cool:
     
  14. Thunder

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    U can get a nice set of IXOS spades from www.hifibitz.co.uk for £10.00 for a set of four, thats what I use :D
     
  15. Barry.NI

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    The only problem with fitting one's own spade connectors to TAG speaker cable, as opposed to the factory job, is you don't get that very neat double ended plastic sleave. Does anyone know where these can be obtained? Also what is wrong with tinning about 15mm of bared cable with silver solder, and putting that through the hole on the amp terminal bar?
     
  16. GrahamMG

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    Who mentioned TAG speaker cable?
    If you use WBT fittings you get a lovely finished product if aesthetics matters to a cable buried in the back of an amp never likely to see the light of day..... Just make sure any exposed metalwork is well covered in one way or another..... I'd use heat shrink tubing to cover a thing like Steve's idea, would look nice and neat then.....

    I don't think you really mean "silver solder" do you as that requires the metal to be red hot..... If you refer to silver loaded lead solder then I wouldn't ever do that as the solder is still technically a liquid at room temperature and will creep resulting in a loose connection, trust me on this one please....I'm not joking.... Never put a tinned end of a cable into a joint that tightened directly onto it via a screw etc. Manufacturers tinned ends of cables before packing them in boxes to keep the bare ends together, putting the tinned ends into a mains plug for example is not recommended, the tinned ends should be cut off and bare wire placed in the sandwich....
     
  17. Thunder

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    The IXOS spades come with a nice tight fitting rubber hood that you just push over the body of the spade :)
     
  18. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    problem solved then, now where is that battery cable :rotfl: :rotfl:
     
  19. Stevesky

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    For the DIY'er our ol' friend Ebay is ideal for picking up small packs of coloured sleeving to give your cables that factory finish. For example:
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4660&item=3857387149&rd=1

    Get the misses hair dryer on the case set to max power to shrink it down and it will look the business.

    I normally sleeve about 15cm worth of each cable in red/black and then heat shrink it all together where the two become one. I also like to put ID tags on each cable to help avoid mixing channels up etc when reconnecting components.

    The tricky bit with some thick speaker cables is finding a soldering iron powerful enough to get the joint up to temperature for the solder to flow. For those I use a gas soldering iron (runs off lighter fuel), or if it's ultimately stubborn an Antex Pipemaster which is an electrical blow torch equivalent for doing joints on copper water pipes! Watchya fingers though as the cable will take quite a while to cool down!
     
  20. Kenny Glasgow

    Kenny Glasgow
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    ....or take your cables to the Govan shipyard and get them welded there :rotfl:
     
  21. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    Of course crimping connectors to cables has always been the best way to do it....... :devil:
     
  22. Stevesky

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    ... If you can find a connector that can be crimped to sufficient force to hold the speaker cable in an air-tight joint. QED went down that route but ended up being a dealer fit system... see:
    http://www.qed.co.uk/cables/speaker/airloc.html

    All rather theoretical imho. There are already a few thousand solder joints in the equipment so a couple more won't make much difference! :)
     
  23. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    I could quote you AQD/CAA and MIL documents but as most useful bits are under the OSA (offical secrets act) I'd have to kill you afterwards. Remember I used to build bits for jets/tanks/helicopters and other military equipment the looms were rarely if ever soldered in fact I can't think of any that were and not just for mechanical reasons. Obviously there are thousands of soldered joints in hi-fi kit, that is because that is the only practical way to do it.

    I knew someone would bite :devil:

    You won't catch me soldering a speaker cable (or BNC) or even an RCA these days if someone brings back my Canare crimp tool......but of course if people want high resistance and poor mechanical joints......each to his/her own mate. Probably makes bugger all difference to the sound but it might save burning your house down with that MAPP gas axe... :rotfl: :rotfl:

    In know, lets bring Aircraft cable build standards to hi-fi cables, marketing could do with a new angle :eek:
     
  24. Stevesky

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    I agree, a crimp connector that is designed for a particular cable size and crimped with the right tool will produce a highly reliable joint, and in a harsh enviroment should have less chance of failing. However if you look at the amount of speaker connectors and cables out there it's a real hit and miss affair about the likelyhood of a quality crimp joint being made, expecially on some these wacky size hifi cables. A crimp joint that isn't air tight will have long term reliability issues with oxidisation and other contaminations = dodgy contact... you're better off with a nice tight solder joint!

    I'm quite a fan of crimp connectors expecially for BNC's and 75ohm(ish) phonos as they give a decent tight joint and most of those connectors avoids major disturbances to the cable geometry.
     
  25. sijones

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    I used the QED airlock spade connectors. No need for a dealer fit though. I just bothered the crimping tool from the dealer I purchased the connectors from. They seem to work OK and the connectors haven't dropped off yet!

    Regards,

    Steve
     
  26. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    Hi Steve/Steve.

    I wouldn't trust anyone else to make my cables, seems I'm not alone....... Not that I'm going to terminate another set of QED genesis cables ever ever again as that takes a very very long time to do properly.....
    Like I said a bit of adhesive lined heatshrink is very handy for those air tight joints!
     
  27. Miron

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    bare wire
     
  28. Inotrope

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    Prehaps a silly question, but the 5x100 manual states that the spades are a 10mm size. WBTs are upto 8.1mm and RA Kimber are 8.75mm max! Anyone know any model numbers of spades which fit, or are the binding poles smaller that the quoted 10mm (which seems HUGE!).

    I don't have a 5x100 just yet - but want to make the right preparations!

    Thanks Mark
     
  29. GrahamMG

    GrahamMG
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    Hi Mark.
    Sorry for the late response, the WBT's fit both the 250x3R and the 100x5R currently sitting in my cabinet..... If you get WBT's make sure you get the correct ferrules for the cable size your using.... The spades I use are part number WBT-0680. So unless TAG have altered the binding post size (unlikely) I'd say the manual is wrong!
     
  30. Inotrope

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    Thanks!

    That has what I expected, as 10mm seems like an enormous binding post!

    The WBTs do look very nice...
     

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