Discussion in 'AV Amplifiers & Receivers' started by ranakirti, Jul 15, 2011.
This is great information,thank you!
Should be getting my new RX-A2010 in January - have an industry contact so it'll be £1050 delivered!
Just a couple of questions:
1. Does anyone use any of the DSP modes and would they recommend them? (I keep reading good things about the Sci-Fi one)
2. Is the non-backlighted remote an annoyance or do you just get used to it?
3. And how good is the auto set up? I don't want to spend too long fiddling with it and am happy to let the machine decide the best settings, if they are the best settings!
Well, I only have an A810, and settings do depend a lot on speakers, and room size / layout but here is how I am getting on...
1. I really like the Neo 6 cinema surround decoder for television with a stereo audio track, it really fills the room well with effects and background music.
I also use the Action Game DSP setting for Xbox (COD MW3) sound fantastic.
I tend to leave HD Audio as 'straight'
I quite like Spectacle DSP setting for DD 5.1 and DTS, it makes for a very expansive sound, but still experimenting with some of the other DSP settings for DD 5.1 and DTS.
2. I use a Logitech Harmony, and thoroughly recommend it.
3. I was very disappointed with the auto set up. It set all the speakers to large, for a start, and barely used the sub. I configured everything manually with speakers set to small and crossover quite high at 120hz. This is obviously very specific though to each individual set up and room.
We need to manually adjust the sound we use for music, but have never done this before.
Got the 2010 on the network today, it did a f/w update which took about 15 mins over a 16mb connection. I've had a look at the Yamaha iPhone app - looks good
Nice work on the price, I basically had the same deal stateside - the 2010 for $999.99 (actually my deal was better considering the devaluation of the greenback).
1. The DSP works very well, as does the straight - throughout it's a very unified soundfield.
2. The remote is fine - unless you're in an unlit dungeon you'll be able to see the buttons.
3. The auto setup is excellent and easy to use; shoo out children/wife/ pets, keep it very quiet, then take multiple measurements throughout the room and the listening positions used in the room. If you don't like it, dial it in on your own.
Thanks for the replies people - I shall attempt to experiment like Lisa and plan to move out of my unlit dungeon asap so that I can see the buttons on the remote!
My room is 14 x 10 and my speakers are PMC OB1i/CB6i/TB2i with a B&W PV1 sub - I think the amp should be a good match with my forthcoming Oppo 95 player.
I'll also keep an eye on Blu-Ray prices on the Matrix Trilogy, Star Wars, BSG and Star Trek XI - I want to be pinned to my sofa by an explosion!
Can anyone help me out with the above options? I know on paper that the LX85 looks better, but is the A3010 as good or good enough, or is the 3067 for the price a better option than the 3010, or the older Z7 still produces a better sound than the 3067 or 3010 etc?
Can anyone here comment?
I'm new to this Hifi world, so if I say anything wrong, don't shoot me
I recently (last week) purchased 5 new speakers: 2 Yamaha NS 555, 2 Yamaha NS 333 and one center speaker NS C 444 and I'm looking for a matching AV receiver. So at this point, I want to buy an RX-A2010.
I want to be able to sit in my living room and enjoy the surround experience while I'm looking at the tele. I also want to play music in the kitchen / bedroom from my computer (using my itunes library) or from my cd player.
So I went to a local vendor who has a wide range of receivers, but he said that if I wanted to have audio in multiple rooms, I had to use multiple receivers, so he recommended the RX-A810, combined with 2 or 3 sonos players instead of the RX-A2010.
I don't know exactly why, but I don't like all this wireless sonos stuff (and I don't need wireless, because at this point of construction of my house, I can still pull any wire anywhere...), so I became a bit sceptical.
I pointed to the zone 2 and 3 amp connections and asked why I had to use 3 receivers if there where this zone connections.
After a call to his Yamaha support, he told me that they where only for analog sources, so like with many other receivers, if I wanted to have the music from my computer in multipe zones, I had to use the audio jacks and connect them with stereo pin cables to other receivers.
I read something about this, but still wasn't convinced, and that's why I'm here.
If I check the manual, I can read on page 80 (RX-A2010 manual) that only analog audio signals can be output to zone 2 and 3, but this includes radio, USB and network sources.
I don't know what "playback sounds from external devices" are, so I ask myself if I just need the RX-A2010 for my set-up (considering TV+living room, music from computer/cd-player in bedroom/kitchen) or if I need more equipment...
The LX-85 and the A3010 both get five stars from whathifi, they both receive stellar reviews elsewhere; it's a matter of personal preference. The 3067 doesn't have quite the same build quality or components as the A3010; available through mass-market channels vs. hi-fi specialists. The Z7 is a great unit but with older hardware, your chance of any firmware updates are slim. "Better" sound is wholly dependent on your preferences and your components. Best of luck.
I don't know about Pioneer never heard the SCLX receivers before but I've heard quiet a few Yamahas in the RXV1065, 2067, 3067 and the legendary Z7.
My mate has the Z7 and the exact same monitor audio RX speakers that I have connected to a 3067.
To my ears, the 3067, 2067 and the 1065 all sound the same. The sound quality and performance is near identical between these 3 receivers for which I suspect all 3 share the same or very similar insides.
My friends Z7 which is set up correctly for some reason doesn't sound as lively as the others. I think this is unfair on the Z7 as my mate has laminate flooring which sometimes gives off an "echoing" effect.
When I tested my signature chapter using Avatar blu ray, sure the sound field was as wide as the others but it just lacked a little bit of punch and even using the Through EQ, the high frequencies didn't sound as clear as the others but as I said this could be because of the laminate flooring, not sure.
It would be great if I could borrow my mates Z7 for a few hours but he spent alot of time rerouting the cables etc and doesn't want to take it apart.
In my honest opinion I think the best value for money would be the 1065 which is no longer available. If you can find one off eBay or somewhere for under £300 it really is an outstanding amp and a real bargain at that price point. I regard it very highly and in the same league as the £800 3067.
Picked up BSG for £50, Matrix Trilogy for £14 and Star Trek XI for £11 off Amazon tonight!
Your logic is sound and is the exact reason I am looking at the higher end amps is because of the zone features.
I too want to be able to have my amp setup in my living room, and run speakers through to the backyard, and 2 bedrooms. The idea behind it is that we can listen to the local radio, internet radio, my network can stream mp3's etc, and I can watch movies in 1 of the bedrooms as well. So if I want to watch a movie in the living room, but my wife has some friends over and wants to listen to some music in the backyard we can do both, or we can get nice quality sound in the bedrooms when we're showering or watch a movie before sleeping. My computer is my media player in the living room, but it is also networked. We have a networked pc in the bedroom as well and my wife's android based cell phone and the tablet. Combined with the nifty apple/android based yamaha software (or even the browser based software on the amp) our cell phones/tablets would become RF remote's for the amp ie able to control the amp from anywhere in the house.
As you quoted in the manual, that shouldn't be a problem.
I have no idea why they are trying to sell you more amps etc to get the job done when one amp will do exactly that, unless the salesman thinks you have dedicated cd/dvd players in multiple locations?, or maybe combined the a810 and sonos players comes to more than the single a2010?
Of course you are not getting the same power as having dedicated amps in each location, and you are pushing the single amp to it's limits but unless you are really cranking up the volume in both/all locations simultaneously (say you and your wife are having a sound war) you shouldn't have any problems if it's the same scenario as above (I would think).
If this is not the case then why have the zone features at all?
Thanks for replying.
The other thing is the Pioneers price - it think that has ruled that one out for me.
The choice I have here (in the philippines), is the RX-V2067 ($1550) and RX-V3067 ($1700). The only authorised distributor for Yamaha has stated they won't be ordering the A10/20/3010 range of receivers until around July because they want to sell their existing stocks first.
What you've said about the build quality makes me wonder if I shouldn't just wait for the A3010 and get that instead....
Thanks for your reply as well. It is interesting to know that there isn't a huge difference in sound quality between the 3, but the main reason I am looking at the 3067/3010 is for the 4 zones. Living room, backyard, 2 bedrooms. I don't have to buy 3 other devices to enjoy quality sounds and even movies (in 1 of the bedrooms).
powered zones for 2/3 and optical output only to zone 4 - my understanding is that I would only need powered speakers in zone 4 is that correct? Quoted from the manual: "Only digital audio signals can be output to Zone4. To listen to playback sounds of
an external device in Zone4, you need to connect the device to the OPTICAL or
COAXIAL jack of this unit with a corresponding audio cable."
What's "Only digital audio signals..." mean exactly?
I managed to work this one out - I would need a separate amp for zone 4. If I wanted the presence speakers for the main zone or wanted more power to zone 2 and 3 then they too would either need a separate amp or powered speakers.
Anyways thanks for the advice guys.
I think I will be going for the v3067 at $1000 compared to the a3010 for $1800. I am tempted to wait for the a3010 because of the 9 amps. Can anyone tell me if the amps are split up as follows:
v3067 - 7 amps
Front left/right - 2 amps 1 per speaker
Center - 1 amp
Surround - 1 amp shared left/right
Surround Rear - 1 amp shared left/right
zone2/3 sp1 - 1 amp shared left/right
zone2/3 sp2 - 1 amp shared left/right
Front left/right - 2 amps, 1 per speaker
Center - 1 amp
Surround - 2 amps, 1 per speaker
Surround Rear - 2 amps, 1 per speaker
zone 2/3 sp1 - 1 amp shared left/right
zone 2/3 sp2 - 1 amp shared left/right
Is that correct? and what is the impact of having only 7 amps in the 3067 over 9 amps in the 3010 - is it really a huge issue?
Where is the v3067 £800?
You could briefly buy an RXV3067 for £800 or even less if you didn't mind buying an ex display model. The cheapest you can get one now is £850:
Yamaha RX-V3067 11.2-channel AV receiver RXV3067 with 8 in/2 out HDMI (V.1.4a with 3D and Audio Return Channel), HD Audio decoding with CINEMA DSP 3D - Quantum Electronics (UK) Limited
THere is a B graded model for £800 here:
I managed to work out that the amps are not so cleanly split up as the above - don't ask me how exactly because I'm not too crash hot reading electronic schematics, but looking at the service manual for the a3010 there are obviously larger and smaller amps in the receivers and they aren't dedicated per speakers as such.
The impact of having 7 channels in the 3067 to 9 channels in the 3010 is:
3067 - if using zone 2 & 3 then no sound from the rear surround (when using zone 2) and surrounds (when using zone 3)
3010 - if using zone 2 & 3 then no sound in the rear surrounds when using zone 3.
So obviously there is enough dedicated power to power zone 2 and the surrounds at the same time in the a3010 with the 9 channels.
Apart from the fact it has the cinema dsp hd3 in the 3010 I don't see a huge difference between the two that would justify an extra $600.
Can anyone else see anything else on paper to justify the extra money, or in real world usage is the sound so much better in the a3010 over the v3067(a3000 in the US/Canada)?
The extra foot????
It does look appealing with the extra foot
but seriously I think I am sold on the v3067/a3000. By all accounts it's the same thing minus the 2 extra channels and you do get the sexy sound setup triangle thingy with the a3010 but I can't see it being worth the difference.
Anyways thanks for everyones input
Any clues on setting up the music streaming, I have the amp on my network, I guess I need to find the right option in the Yamaha menu?
Although why I need another device to stream music, I don't know. lol. I already have a squeezebox, ps3, apple tv...
Having spent most of this evening fiddling about with the "rapid" auto set up, I now can't get any sound whatsoever even though the test tones came through fine.
I've connected up my Oppo 95 through dual HDMI - one to the Kuro and one to the Yam and the cabling seems fine.
I've also followed the online manual's instructions numerous times regarding trouble shooting (oh, how I wish that there was a paper version now instead of constantly having to turn on the PC to check the tiniest thing) and still nothing.
I can't have a dud amp as the test tone worked. It can't be the Oppo as the sound is okay through the telly alone.
What am I doing wrong?
Been thinking about this a bit further - if the connections are sound, which I think they are, then I need to get my sources to communicate with the amp?
I tried my Wii and there's picture but no sound with that either through Component. There's probably something that I'm not doing in the set up, if anyone can help I'd be very grateful.
I vaguely remember something in the settings about getting audio to pass out of the amp via one or both of the HDMI outs (maybe this is for different zones, not too sure?) Might be worth checking to see if you have enabled that by mistake.
Also, do you need to change any settings on the sources (eg Wii) to enable audio to be sent to the amp via the HDMI connection?
Thanks Lisa - I managed to sort out both the Wii and the BD player for both picture and sound, but now I have another problem!
I know you have a PS3 (or is it a 360?) and you've probably got them connected via HDMI. The Wii only supports Component, which I've connected to the Yam and am upscaling. However, I can't get the picture to be full screen - it's only a small square box in the middle of the screen with huge black borders all the way around.
Any ideas how I can change the screen resolution through the amp? I could always go back to my previous set up which was Component to TV and the audio leads extended to the amp, but I'd have the telly upscaling then and I think the Yam would be superior in that respect.
I think I'll post this query on the Wii Forum too....
Thanks for your help with this. And you're right - the sound is HUGE compared to my old Denon 3805 and so much more mellifluous too.
I got this working last night, it can see media on my mac and it can also see the Squeezebox application, I was able to stream by using either.
The iPhone/iPad app works well with this as it gives you an easy method for scrolling through artists/tracks.
Glad you got your sound problem sorted, and that you are please with the amp. Mellifulous? Cool word
Sorry, I can't help with the video scaling problem, all my sources, Xbox 360, Blu Ray Player and HTPC are connected via HDMI and outputting 1080p. So I have not looked at the amps video scaling settings.
I'm sure there is a way - good luck!
Actually, just had a quick look at the manual on my laptop, there is a diagram on page 122 of the A810 manual. It seems that it will only upscale to 1080p certain resolutions of inputs.
In essence, I would try experimenting with different video output resolutions on the Wii, to see if you hit one that the amp will be able to upscale to 1080.
Probably 480p/576p might work. Not sure if this will look better or worse though, than going in direct to TV.
Derek, I have the video from my Wii and PS3 going to the TV directly (component and HDMI respectively) and their audio goes through the amp.
If I try to put their video through the amp my TV says mode not supported, it was the same with my old Denon amp.
Did you have your Wii video signal going through a different amp before, without issue?
Thanks for your replies, Lisa and Zoe.
I currently have the Wii on its best resolution at 480p and my old Denon 3805 just supported the sound, not the video. The Yamaha does support both picture and sound but, like I said, it won't output the picture on full screen.
I shall keep checking the online manual as you suggested and also experiment with settings on the Wii. I think I may have to go back to the old arrangement like you're currently using, Zoe.
To be honest, the Wii's not a HD device anyway so any upscaling advantages between devices, either amp or TV, isn't that marked.
Thanks both for your advice.
Zoe - how are you getting on with the online manual? I think it's a total nightmare as I have a desktop PC, so I have to keep shuffling back and forth to try and find what information I want.
You also have a new 2010 too, don't you? My Kuro obviously supports both picture and sound through the amp, but mucks about with the resolution.
It's at times like this that I wish I weren't so hopeless with technology....
Luckily we have an iPad, so I viewed the manual on that, but frankly I gave up with it.
Rather than being able to look how to do a specific function, or set up, all the manual seems to tell you is what options are in what menu, rather than what the options are actually for!
I struggled for hours trying to get the 2010 set up how I wanted, and in the end it came down to the Input Assignment option in the Setup menu, which allowed me to pair optical and HDMI inputs together for one source.
Not sure what to do about your resolution problem, have you tried turning upscaling off on the amp?
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