Samsung D7000 Owners Thread *Part 3*

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could a samsung D7000 LCD owner please test their headphone jack and tell me if you hear a constant white noise/static? I have this problem with mine. I don't know whether ALL Samsung D7000 models have unusable headphone jacks or if it's my set... can anyone help?

Check your cable.

I tested mine on my quad 303/33 amp and although its not very loud there is no white noise. Its clean.
 
Well I've had mine for 7 days and getting to grips with this beast.

And to all intensive purposes it is a beast of a TV. I love it in many way after calibration with PuntNL's setting. I watched avatar in 3d full hd and it took me right back home. I was mezmorized.

It does have issues though and I am considering having it replaced.

Its a 46 and is suffering the clouding / bleeding and torching issues. I will post images later for your opinions as I too am in 2 minds as to exchange or live with.

Watching the dark night, there is visible bleed all around, toriching from all 4 corners and in a couple of scenes you can see the clouding over the image.

Also - does anyone get pop outs in 3D Avater on this set ? I had 0 pop outs on mine.

Cheers.

Ron.
 
I think some 3D content or most doesnt really have the pop out affect its more depth and thats exactly what the 3D TV's without glasses will do...I cannot see how they will be able to offer pop out affects without the glasses so it has to be depth.

I reckon until we get holo TV actually 3D projected then yeah thats gonna be sureal!
 
This seems to be an issue with WEP. I contacted Samsung customer support and they recommended changing my router security to WPA/WPA-PSK to remedy the problem.

Job done. TV now reconnects to router automatically.

Hope this helps.

Well, I was hoping to NOT do this since that means I will need to change passwords on 4 other devices as well.

Just don't understand how in 2012, we have these issues.
 
Well, I was hoping to NOT do this since that means I will need to change passwords on 4 other devices as well.

Just don't understand how in 2012, we have these issues.


It doesnt make sense to have to set the tele to WPA because WEP is just Wired Equivalent Privacy meaning its pretty much the same as plugging it in via Ethernet so it should just work.
 
OK, I got the 600d and tripod out tonight and took some shots of the issue of torching/bleeding and clouding.

Please fo9llow these links to the full size images on photobucket.

1) Scrambled signal channel -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1478.jpg

IMG_1478.jpg


2) Same with longer exposure highlighting the issue more -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1479.jpg

IMG_1479.jpg


3) Black Test Screen -


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1489.jpg

IMG_1489.jpg


4) Grey Test Screen

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1491.jpg

IMG_1491.jpg


5) Dark Knight Credits -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1497.jpg


IMG_1497.jpg


Any opinions welcome. I would love to hear from any experts too.

I think I've been generous with the exposure on the shots being under rather than over exposed.

There is one funny thing I noticed. All these shots were with the calibrated settings from puntnl and others.

When I looked at the same screens in natural and standard the issues seemed alot less noticable. Now considering the backlight is turned up high on uncalibrated settings this leads me to stand there scratching my head alot.

Need to decide if this one is going back or live with it.

Any serious advice gretfully received.

Thanks.

Ron.
 
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All I will say is the grey screen test looks really good compared to mine!
 
RocketRonnieRad said:
OK, I got the 600d and tripod out tonight and took some shots of the issue of torching/bleeding and clouding.

Please fo9llow these links to the full size images on photobucket.

1) Scrambled signal channel -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1478.jpg

2) Same with longer exposure highlighting the issue more -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1479.jpg

3) Black Test Screen -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1489.jpg

4) Grey Test Screen

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1491.jpg

5) Dark Knight Credits -

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s44/RonenGoodfriend/IMG_1497.jpg

Any opinions welcome. I would love to hear from any experts too.

I think I've been generous with the exposure on the shots being under rather than over exposed.

There is one funny thing I noticed. All these shots were with the calibrated settings from puntnl and others.

When I looked at the same screens in natural and standard the issues seemed alot less noticable. Now considering the backlight is turned up high on uncalibrated settings this leads me to stand there scratching my head alot.

Need to decide if this one is going back or live with it.

Any serious advice gretfully received.

Thanks.

Ron.

Needs some context of exposure times to contextualise the results.

If you prefer the look without the calibrated settings, go for what you prefer. Puntnl gave a great starting point, but your eyes are your eyes.
 
could a samsung D7000 LCD owner please test their headphone jack and tell me if you hear a constant white noise/static? I have this problem with mine. I don't know whether ALL Samsung D7000 models have unusable headphone jacks or if it's my set... can anyone help?

Check your cable.

I tested mine on my quad 303/33 amp and although its not very loud there is no white noise. Its clean.

Tested with four different sets of headphones (which all work fine with other sources). If you don't hear white noise/static then I believe that as suspected, mine is faulty. Mine does not output a clean signal at all
 
Tested with four different sets of headphones (which all work fine with other sources). If you don't hear white noise/static then I believe that as suspected, mine is faulty. Mine does not output a clean signal at all

are u sure ur using the headphone jack and not the jack where the component plugs into?

as i fairly sure they are the same type of jack as in they both will plug into each other.
 
Toptop1980 said:
are u sure ur using the headphone jack and not the jack where the component plugs into?

If that was the case the OP wouldn't be hearing any sound at all.
 
Needs some context of exposure times to contextualise the results.

If you prefer the look without the calibrated settings, go for what you prefer. Puntnl gave a great starting point, but your eyes are your eyes.


Many thanks for the reply.

Exposures were as follows.

ISO 100
AV Priority
Pic 1 - 6 seconds
other pics 1.3 - 2 seconds.

All I really want to know is if this is to be considered as a fault worth returning the set for. I would go for an exchange rather than another model at this stage. I do like alot of the things the sammy does. At the software level things are so much better but picture quality has to come first.

Regarding the calibrated Vs Non Calibrated settings.....
I preffer the picture with the calibrated settings as non calibrated gives the soap opera effect and is way too bright to watch comfortably.

The reason I brought it up was just in the context of light bleed and the black test screen.

Non calibrated significantly improves bleed and torch over calibrated which is what I find hard to understand.

Here are another couple - same shot, different exposure.

1) Dark Knight Scene - 5 seoncds at ISO 100

IMG_1495.jpg


2) Same With slightly shorter exposure - 3 seconds.

IMG_1494.jpg



Keeper or returner ?

Thanks guys.

Ron.
 
Last edited:
Many thanks for the reply.

Exposures were as follows.

ISO 100
AV Priority
Pic 1 - 6 seconds
other pics 1.3 - 2 seconds.

All I really want to know is if this is to be considered as a fault worth returning the set for. I would go for an exchange rather than another model at this stage. I do like alot of the things the sammy does. At the software level things are so much better but picture quality has to come first.

Regarding the calibrated Vs Non Calibrated settings.....
I preffer the picture with the calibrated settings as non calibrated gives the soap opera effect and is way too bright to watch comfortably.

The reason I brought it up was just in the context of light bleed and the black test screen.

Non calibrated significantly improves bleed and torch over calibrated which is what I find hard to understand.

Here are another couple - same shot, different exposure.

1) Dark Knight Scene - 5 seoncds at ISO 100

image


2) Same With slightly shorter exposure - 3 seconds.

image



Keeper or returner ?

Thanks guys.

Ron.

I must admit, your set doesn't look much different to mine in terms of the banding and light clouding.

If we both have the same flaws I think the likelihood of us getting anything better from a replacement is remote.
 
Hello, I was wondering if anyone has used the net browser to stream football to the tv. I'm wondering if this is possible because I'm thinking of subscribing to a streaming site. Thanks
 
RocketRonnieRad said:
Many thanks for the reply.

Exposures were as follows.

ISO 100
AV Priority
Pic 1 - 6 seconds
other pics 1.3 - 2 seconds.

All I really want to know is if this is to be considered as a fault worth returning the set for. I would go for an exchange rather than another model at this stage. I do like alot of the things the sammy does. At the software level things are so much better but picture quality has to come first.

Regarding the calibrated Vs Non Calibrated settings.....
I preffer the picture with the calibrated settings as non calibrated gives the soap opera effect and is way too bright to watch comfortably.

The reason I brought it up was just in the context of light bleed and the black test screen.

Non calibrated significantly improves bleed and torch over calibrated which is what I find hard to understand.

Here are another couple - same shot, different exposure.

1) Dark Knight Scene - 5 seoncds at ISO 100

2) Same With slightly shorter exposure - 3 seconds.

Keeper or returner ?

Thanks guys.

Ron.

5 seconds seems like a long exposure time, how does it compare with what your eyes see?

As you've shown above, on 3 secs doesn't look to bad, on 5 seconds pretty bad, and I guess on 10 secs atrocious.

Whilst there is some slight clouding, at least you get depth of black.
 
Thanks Pany,

i used those exposures to present as accuratly as possible what the eye sees.

I guess you are right in as much as the clouding is slight but the bleed and torch is what I find most distracting.

I am taking a decission to exchange very seriously as I worry about getting a worse set if i do. Thank heavens for JL customer support - second to none.

Just looking at the black screen shot in my previous post and it pretty accuratley shows the bleed and torch.

Its just real curious why its not so bad on the non calibrated settings. Makes me wonder why lowering the BL produces more torching ???
 
Thanks Pany,

i used those exposures to present as accuratly as possible what the eye sees.

I guess you are right in as much as the clouding is slight but the bleed and torch is what I find most distracting.

I am taking a decission to exchange very seriously as I worry about getting a worse set if i do. Thank heavens for JL customer support - second to none.

Just looking at the black screen shot in my previous post and it pretty accuratley shows the bleed and torch.

Its just real curious why its not so bad on the non calibrated settings. Makes me wonder why lowering the BL produces more torching ???

What is torching anyway?

Is it those very small white dots in two of the corners?
 
Hi,

No the white dots are part of the test image.

Torching is where light enters the screen more intensly from the corners of the screen leading to a conical white haze exentding but a few cm's into the screen from the corners.
 
RocketRonnieRad said:
Thanks Pany,

i used those exposures to present as accuratly as possible what the eye sees.

I guess you are right in as much as the clouding is slight but the bleed and torch is what I find most distracting.

I am taking a decission to exchange very seriously as I worry about getting a worse set if i do. Thank heavens for JL customer support - second to none.

Just looking at the black screen shot in my previous post and it pretty accuratley shows the bleed and torch.

Its just real curious why its not so bad on the non calibrated settings. Makes me wonder why lowering the BL produces more torching ???

The black test screen is pretty bad for bleed, and there is some vertical banding. What backlight setting is that on, as it doesn't look particularly black? If that is around 6-8 and represents what the eye sees I'd go back to JL.

I wonder if the lower backlight looks to produce more bleeding as the black is blacker and therefore the contrast higher, which might more obviously show torching and bleed. With a higher BL, the black might be greyer and therefore have less contrast.

Just a guess, although I might have just gone 2+2=5!
 
Hi Pany,

Thanks again.

The BL on the black screen is set to 8.

Now I think you have touched on something with relation to BL and Contrast. I think PuntNL touched on it in the settings and calibration thread where he suggests that BL and contrast are related and if you adjust one it affects the other. I need to read it again and fine out.

Interestingly enough, if I do the same black test on the presets the bleed and cloud is negligable which makes me wonder if I am setting this up wrong or if there is indeed a fault.

Argghh - more brain straining !

Right, I just went to the set and did the following -

Put the black test screen on.

Selcted - Movie (calibrated) Checked BL = 8 Contrast = 98 - Result - Bleed and cloud as in above pic.

I then changed to Natural Preset Checked BL = 20 Contrast = 100 - Result - almost perfect test screen. No bleed no Cloud.

How does that work ?

The only thing I can think of would be gamma = 0 or the 10P WB adjustment I did from Punts settings....

Any explanations greatfully received !!!
 
Good luck with the brain strain, the noise you can probably hear is the sound of my cogs grinding to a halt.

Not sure about gamma but it would alter light levels.

Also are the faults more visible in certain lights? It might be interesting to know the light conditions of the calibrated set ups. From memory, they all turned the adaptive backlight off, but the effect might well look very different in a bright room with the sun hitting the screen at 90 degrees, to a gloomy British evening at 9 pm with the curtains closed and the lights dimmed.
 
Good luck with the brain strain, the noise you can probably hear is the sound of my cogs grinding to a halt.

Not sure about gamma but it would alter light levels.

Also are the faults more visible in certain lights? It might be interesting to know the light conditions of the calibrated set ups. From memory, they all turned the adaptive backlight off, but the effect might well look very different in a bright room with the sun hitting the screen at 90 degrees, to a gloomy British evening at 9 pm with the curtains closed and the lights dimmed.

Mine too Pany mine too.

This little finding gives me hope that there is a way of acheiving uniform backlighting on one of these sets if one could only find the right settings that didnt look like the out of box settings but also didnt result in bleed from calibrations.

We only ever watch TV after 21.00 hrs so its always dark.

The calibration settings I am using are as follows -

http://www.avforums.com/forums/14514169-post67.html


HDMI2 - PLAYSTATION 3

PICTURE
Picture Mode Movie
Backlight 7 (3D: 11)
Contrast 96
Brightness 45
Sharpness 15
Color 49
Tint 50/50
ADVANCED
Black Tone Off
Dynamic Contrast Off
Shadow Detail 1
Gamma 1
Color Space Custom
Flesh Tone 0
Edge Enhancement Off
Motion Lighting Off
xvYCC Off
Led Motion Plus Off
PICTURE OPTIONS
Colour Tone Warm2
Digital Noise Filter Off
Mpeg Noise Filter Off
HDMI Black level Low
Film Mode n/a
Motion Plus Clear

R G B
Colour Space Red 62 0 0
Colour Space Green 4 52 5
Colour Space Blue 0 4 52
Colour Space Yellow 51 51 5
Colour Space Cyan 0 54 55
Colour Space Magenta 50 4 51

R-Offset 21
G-Offset 24
B-Offset 24
R-Gain 21
G-Gain 27
B-Gain 23

R G B
1 5 5 1
2 3 3 2
3 1 1 1
4 -3 -2 -2
5 -3 -4 -5
6 -2 -1 -5
7 0 1 -2
8 0 1 -1
9 -1 1 1
10 -1 0 0
Slightly off topic but what does Pany stand for Panagiotis ?
 
Last edited:
Names Andy, a mate with the wit of a god, used to call me Andy Pandy at school. Accidentally entered Pany one day playing Elite, god that ages me, and it kind of stuck for an on-line name
 
Names Andy, a mate with the wit of a god, used to call me Andy Pandy at school. Accidentally entered Pany one day playing Elite, god that ages me, and it kind of stuck for an on-line name

LoL - I remember Elite too. We actually had a BBC PET.....

Anyway, back on topic, if there are any certified thx guys reading I'd love to know what you think - or is it a case of a samsung call ?
 
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