Philips plasma repair advice thread

Number of the fet on the board is 7050, my board was the FM33 in the 37FD9944 or whatever it is. You'll see it. Get yourself a soldering iron and de-solder the two thin legs and bend them away from the board. If it stays green after that, then this is your problem. However, if you get the constant clicking i don't think this will help. Read some of the earlier posts in this forum.

Good luck!
 
Just an update on my dads 42PF9361D/37. Definitely a bad capacitor (c8059). Bulged and leaking. As soon as I find a replacement and install I will update with status. C8059 is a 10V 3300 uf 105 degree cap. No results searching this thread for 8059.

Another observation. Board was has deposits on it in spots. Not dust. A white corrosion looking film. Got a spray electronic board cleaner and took care of it. Unsure if it was the atmosphere in my fathers apartment or something else. Could be a source of stray voltages. Most of the ends of the capacitors also have signs of some corrosion. Shouldn't see it on aluminum capacitors I believe. Perhaps low grade materials......

Perhaps it is the capacitor quality and many of us are seeing different ones go bad based on their lifespan only. Certainly some would be operating nearer design and could explain some of the common issues. I only hope the one I am changing is the cause of the problem and not a symptom of another....

Have a great weekend.
 
Just noted the photo posted by garafrax shows the same capacitor as mine being bulged. C8059. Hope I have the same results with the replacement. If you have a 42PF9631D/37 search on garafrax to find the picture.
 
No luck finding a capacitor locally. Drove an hour to get to the Philips authorized repair facility...what a joke. They fix mostly washing machines and stoves. I asked about buying an individual capacitor and was told they didn't have any. Proof that they just wanted to replace an entire board for hundreds of dollars. The owner admitted they just replace the boards versus "repairing" broken items. One more reason to not buy Philips again.

Do want to pass on some info. Some comments have been made concerning difficulty in finding replacement capacitors or having to buy them 100 at a time. Richardson electronics which has many of the parts sells them in lots of 100 or more. Richardsons is all over the world. Try Allied electronics instead. www.alliedelec.com. They sell as few or as many as you want. They ship internationally. I just ordered a couple from them. Very well designed and easy to use website.

Another alternative is to go to Illinoiscapacitor.com, a very large manufacturer of quality caps and follow the link to their distributors. They don't sell over the internet to individuals but their website can point you in the right direction. Illinois capacitor is also very useful in making sure you get the right specifications for your replacements. Diagrams include physical dimensions so you will know if it will fit. I simply took the part number from the Illinois website and pasted it into the search function at allied electronics.
 
The owner admitted they just replace the boards versus "repairing" broken items. One more reason to not buy Philips again.
To be fair, I think all manufacturers would be the same
 
Number of the fet on the board is 7050, my board was the FM33 in the 37FD9944 or whatever it is. You'll see it. Get yourself a soldering iron and de-solder the two thin legs and bend them away from the board. If it stays green after that, then this is your problem. However, if you get the constant clicking i don't think this will help. Read some of the earlier posts in this forum.

Good luck!

the metronomic clicking stops after a while (2 or 3 try's) and it does 2 clicks but the screen is not lighting up or anything just clicks again and the light goes flashing red.i understand that changing the caps will stop the clicking so i will try that but even if it doesn't click the screen won't work help:lease:
 
I need help trying to find the capacitors in the boards.

The tv model is 37PF7320A/37, it's a Philips 37" and the capacitor numbers 2662, 2663 and 2664 are not listed in the 2 main boards.

I have attached the pictures.

I really appreciate your help.
 

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Well I finally have a Television again. Replaced Caps C8059 and C8060 on my 42PF9361D/37. Powered it up and it is working strong. A definite difference is notable in the loudness of the relays energizing.

Thanks to everyone who has provided information in this thread. It all helped in my troubleshooting and confirming the validity of what I was seeing as symptoms.
 
To be fair, I think all manufacturers would be the same

Thanks for putting it in perspective. Perhaps more a commentary on the world we live in today. Many of us can remember when a TV repairman did the troubleshooting and would save the customer money if possible. I believe I was more shocked when the Philips Authorized Repair Facility did not even stock capacitors.

Still your observation is valid and I thank you.
 
Robert. I also was new to this forum a few weeks back and it was a great help. Take the time to search the thread for symptoms common to yours. Not all issues will be common to yours. We have different models but I was also confused by the numbers being offered up by people for capacitors. I didn't figure it out until I took the board out of the TV and found the numbers for the capacitors printed on the circuit card on the side OPPOSITE the components. Have you physically inspected the each capacitor for signs of overheating such as bulging on the end? Any evidence of liquid spatter on anything. I found spatter on the cover I removed to access the circuit cards and it led me directly to the failed capacitors I needed to replace. Each capacitor showed signs of bulging on the end. The cross etched into the end of the electolytic capacitors actually is a design feature made to fail if the capitor fails and builds up pressure inside. Normally when they fail you can see a blackish material on the end of the failed cap. At a minimum feel the ends of any you suspect and see if the top of the capacitor is convex. If it is convex you may be on to something.
 
Hi,

My 18 month old Philips plasma has decided to stop working. I have a 37FD9944/01S that has a seperate tuner box. When you turn on the display the LED goes green for a few seconds then switches to a continuosly rapid flashing red with no picture. I figured it must be the display as I connected my xbox 360 straight in and it still did the same thing.

I contacted Philips who could not help without sending the unit away to be inspected (at my own cost). I then contacted the retailer, Discount Electronics UK, who couldn't have been more unhelpful.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could have happened or any links to some technical advice on Philips plasma (I've already checked Philips.com)

Cheers, H_P.

contact trading standards (consumer advice) as products are supposed to be fit for purpose for the reason they were bought
and should last a reasonable length of time
18 months is no way long enough
you will be supprised what they say
it is not philips that is liable although i thought there products come with 2 year warranties
but the shop you bought it from is who your contract is with
but trading standards will tell you how you stand and how to go about it.
dont feel silly bout phoning them
as you are within your rights
they should get it repaired for you or replace it or give you money for the reapir
hope this helps
regards
scott
 
G'day Guys,

I am the not so proud owner of a Philips 42FD9954 plasma TV and she's not the most reliable beast out there. Manufactured in 2003 and purchased second hand by ourselves in 2006, she broke down in the first 6 months with a "secondary power board failure". This little episode cost me $845 (Aussie) to repair but at the time new plasmas of similar ilk were over 2k so we agreed to have it repaired with a new board.

Now we have the blinking red light issue and I have identified the suspected caps that are playing up but the board looks different to others I have seen in the pics. What is the same are the location numbers, i.e. 2262, 2263 & 2264. BUT, my caps have a different rating - could this be due to the new power board methinks?

Mine is: 2262 = 35v 1000uf; 2263 & 2264= 63v 100uf

I'm supposing these are the right caps and they are 105 degrees rated. I'm going to get them replaced and see what happens. I may give it a go myself but I'm scared of damaging the powerboard (v expensive to replace!)

Can't believe the 42" plasmas have so many different power booards in them - you'd think they'd all come from the same factory wouldn't you?

Wish me luck or I'm going to buy a new Sony!!!:thumbsup:
 
Hi Guys - changed the cpas and hey presto, she's working again - yay!

Thanks for all the advice and Barbusa for his original instructions. Saved me a fortune.

Fiery!:thumbsup:
 
same thing was wrong with my Phillips Plasma 42PF9631D/37 . Replaced both the same capacitors in pic.Thanks for posting good pic and info.
Thanks to the posts here my Phillips Plasma 42PF9631D/37 is working again!

It had the green light for 5 seconds then red flashing light blinking 7 times issue. It happened all of a sudden. I wole up one morning and it wouldn't turn on.

Read the posts, took it apart and took the power supply to a freind who used to work on circuitry. He spotted a bad capacitor immediately and replaced it with one from a computer power supply he had lying around.

Here's a few pics of my board
HPIM1458.jpg

HPIM1456.jpg


If you look carefully in the first pic you can see the bad capacitor. Notice how the top is bowed upwards. The capacitor in question is almost dead center of the picture
 
I have a Philips 32FD9954/17S with a FM23 unit.

Can someone please be so kind as to tell me which part#'s I need to order from http://www.alliedelec.com/

I'd like to replace the following capacitors (and resistors) with 105 deg C ones. - 2662, 2663, 2664, 2540, 7540 but I cannot find the parts.

Thanks to all in advance.

PS. Excellent forum!!


 
Hello all body ! Sorry for my english, y french man living in Spain...

what led are you refering (Red Light)?

Red Light Flashing of the display or of the Receiver unit box ?

my problem ist red light flashing on the led Standby of the BOX FTR 9964.

I like to know if ist the problem refering in this post...

Thank...
 
duxsi,

Pls refer to my post #127 to get the information of the components.

Cheers.
 
Hello all body ! Sorry for my english, y french man living in Spain...

what led are you refering (Red Light)?

Red Light Flashing of the display or of the Receiver unit box ?

my problem ist red light flashing on the led Standby of the BOX FTR 9964.

I like to know if ist the problem refering in this post...

Thank...

I think it's on the TV
 
It's the actual TV unit (not the receiver). Red when on Stand-by , Green when powered "on".
 
Thank Choddo and duxsi.
so i will continu to look for solution in the web. well in my case the red flashing ist from the box receiver unit FTR 9964. yesterday night i conect laptot direct to display and work well, so the problem come from the box.. and i am sure ist a simple capacitor problem.
THIS FORUM ARE OF ALL I DID SEE IN THE WEB, ON OF THE BEST.... GOOD WORK, THANK.... FOR HELP.
 
Hello All
Is it possible that someone could save me from a fate worse than death:lease:

My 42pf9631d/10 give me the green light ,3 clicks then 5 red blinks yesterday

Now my 3 kids are going mental because they have no tv!

I have stripped of the back to inspect ,hoping that it was the same fault as Garafax + Budnshe as they have the 42pf9631d/37 but when i removed the cover it is a different setup,were Garafax + Budnshe have 1 power supply board i have 2.A good visual inspection of the caps and they look OK.
I have attached 2 pics,you can see the 2 psu boards(board A + board B)

Has anyone had this fault with a 42pf9632d/10,if so can you tell me what was done to rectify the problem or can someone point me in the right direction to try and isolate the problem,does anyone now the blinking led codes.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated before i get lynched by my kids.
 

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Hi all. First of all fantastic thread and some great help, I've read it from front to back 3 times picking out what would seem relevant to me. I have however a few more questions to any of those good hearted generous posters that have come before this entry. I've attached a couple of photos for reference and ID of components.

I have very little vocab and experience with electronics which is limited to building my own PC and repairing a 17" and 19" LCD monitors with blown caps which were very easy to locate due to obvious swollen heads.

My board is from a 32" Flat screen fd9944/01s which looking at the picture posted by y2000hei (post no. #114) is the FM23. I got the TV of a friend who was going to dump it as it has the red standby light, then power on it turns green, then goes continuous red flashing with the continuous clicking sound.

Interestingly enough it is quite clear that at some point the caps marked on the board as 2662, 2663 (100uF 63v) and 2540 (100uF 25v) (which are circled in pink on picture A) have been replaced before however not 2664 (1000uF 25v) (circled in yellow) nor has the marked 7540, 'A positive voltage regulator L7805' mentioned by ap shift on (post no. #112) (circled in green) further more there is a date in ink on the board 5/11/04 which is initialed.

In comparison to caps I've changed on boards before all these caps look OK as there is no positive bellowing on the top surface but as you can see from pic B cap 2510 in fig 2 looks as if the plastic edge cover of the cap is slightly pushed up by the aluminium top as the plastic overlap is uneven (not overlapped equally around the full circle)

Is this a sign of a failed cap? Is there a method for testing the caps with a multimeter?

Also you can see in my pic b fig 1 there looks to be something funny going on with the collection of dark dust. is this an indication as to any fault possibility?

One final thing in fig 3 pic b you can see the plastic cover of the large capacitor is floppy and raised up as if it has expanded due to heat. Is this a give away to anything.

I have not yet tried anything with this as i want to get all parts at the same time and when i do ill post all results.

Many thanks for past and future posts.
 

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Hello
Quick update on my earlier post.
I managed to get hold of the service manual and found out about a Service Default Mode,so i turn the tv on as normal and it clicks away 3 times then blinks red 5 times then i short out the SDM link(see pic) and the tv powers up,there is no display as in menu or pictures from an external or internal source but the panel powers up fine,if i turn the lights off in the room the panel is lit up fine.
A bit more reading in the service manual and it looks like the SSB (small signal board) that is at fault,it handles all the video inputs and the tuner input and passes it onto the main controller.
Does any one know how to fault find on the SSB,or if i can get hold of one whats involved in the install,is there any special setup needed.
All help is apreciated.
 

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So i replaced 2662, 2664, 2510 caps with the correct voltage and uF rating according to the service manual. As advised in one post i changed out cap 2508 with a 10uF 50v instead of the 4,7 uF 50v stated in the manual to give more power to the relays. I also changed out 7541 the voltage regulator/thyristor and its still not working. Funny thing is i get the two relays clicking once each, first one then the other and green light stays on for about 7 seconds the relays click again and it goes onto constant flashing red light!!

Anyone any more ideas?:confused:
 

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