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Philips plasma repair advice thread

Discussion in 'Plasma TVs' started by High_Pressure, Sep 25, 2006.

  1. pat01

    pat01 Member

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    I just heard back from the repair shop and bad news. The guy said that the board is shot and about $430.00 for a new power board. Funny thing is is that he said the board that I replaced the 3 caps on(the one all the pics are posted of) isn't the power board! I have yet to speak to him personally when I pick the tv up. Sounds fishy if you ask me. Oh, and the repair kit for all these models has now dissapeared from ebay.
    Be back soon.:mad:
  2. billyjiahaogao

    billyjiahaogao Member

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    Hi there,

    I've read all your posts from a few pages back - I have a similar problem, 42PF9955 Phillips. The screen just went blank a couple of days ago and now I hear 2 clicks when I power it on - although I have to wait a period of time before the clicks occur again.

    Took the back off and noticed 2 LED's, numbered LED 8001 and 8002. I suspect these have something to do with the resistors as they are right below the blue boxes and switch off with the clicks.

    I was just wondering, I want to check if it is the resistors that are broken, I have a multimeter - but no idea on how to use it :rolleyes: What setting do I use to check the circuit is broken (with no power), e.g. Amps, Ohms - I'm quite useless when it comes to this :D

    Also, I looked up the components and I got this webpage
    http://uk.farnell.com/987578/passives/product.us0?sku=tyco-electronics-sqm5-6r8&_requestid=72263
    Their 38pence now, just wondering if they are correct and have gone up in price or I'm being stupid and have the entirely wrong resistor :)

    Thanks for any help!!

    Billy
  3. choddo2006

    choddo2006 Active Member

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    For most cases, switch it to ohms, it'll start reading very high or inifinity or something then you connect across the resistor and see if it drops to the rated resistance (in which case it's not faulty).

    Given you said you're useless... do make sure it's not connected to a live AC supply when you do this ;)
  4. MOI64

    MOI64 Member

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    Just found this forum. First of all i am happy after months to understand that I am not the only one who has this problem with Philips.

    My story ; The on/off started 2 years ago on my 52 inch philips. Because i have (i thought) some good contacts insite philips. (the one who is responsible for flatscreens in belgium) I received a new one, this one worked also just for a few months and started to have the problem again. I replaced the receiver same problem. Bought new cables same problem.

    Because i live in spain in a old house and did not trust the power in this house i give up. I had this big flatscreen on the table and in front my 10 years old sony trinitron.

    Last month I moved to a complete new house, where it looked that it worked. Happy me 2 flatscreens ready to use. But on my first day that i really wanted to watch my flatscreen, same problem started again.

    I even bought a power stabilisator but no results. My living room is now full with 2 flatscreens, PC for direct contact with the screen (so i dont use the seperate box) power stabilisator, laptop with digital tv for just in case, (but there is no football broadcasted) and a family that runs to the neighbours if football is on and the screen starts to have problems.

    Now it is time to switch some parts what i read in previous posts. Wish me luck but i have the feeling that in few days there will be 2 flatscreens on the road with a note please take me and have luck.

    But great info here, but what would be the first part to change ? with the biggest change that this finally fix the philips problem.

    Moi
    Marbella
  5. jwball

    jwball Member

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    on a side issue, I have the 37" version of this screen and until yesterday had it wall mounted. I am moving to a new house and wish to use the tv on its stand but have misplaced the screws which hold the tv to the verticals on the stand. Does anyone know the size I should use and where to get them from? Thanks
  6. jwball

    jwball Member

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    Bump

    Can anyone help please?
  7. Brynhyfryd

    Brynhyfryd Member

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    Right! I've got a 9965 with the green light/three clicks/flashing red light problem. I've bought the capacitors from Maplin. I'll get the soldering iron out this weekend. Wish me luck!
  8. Julie

    Julie Active Member

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    You're very brave:D
    Seriously though, best of luck, I'm sure it will be fine:smashin:
  9. Brynhyfryd

    Brynhyfryd Member

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    OK, I've replaced 2662 (25V 1000 uF) 2663 and 2664 (both 50V 100uF) and now I get a continuous red LED on the front and no clicks. Does any one have any ideas please? Any help would be appreciated!

    Update. Two hours later. I rebooted the receiver box and now I'm back to the green light/three clicks/flashing red light problem. Time to look at changing some resisteors I suppose!
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2008
  10. mmmmmrob

    mmmmmrob Member

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  11. Brynhyfryd

    Brynhyfryd Member

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    Well after my failure I took to the local repair shop and they reckon £200 to replace failed thyristors and several low capacitors. I feel reluctant to spend that much (what's next to go?). Is there much of a market for these as "faulty for repair?".
    And congrats to mmmmmrob and all the others for succeeding where I failed!
  12. googoo73

    googoo73 Member

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    hi anyone know where i can get a replacement power board or a complete unit with a smashed screen from .i drilled a big hole in my power board trying to get out a cross threaded screw that the head got mashed up .:mad::oops:
  13. jaguar04p

    jaguar04p Member

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    My Phillips 32FD9954 was working good until just last week. it started doing this on/off cycles three or four times then turned on. I thought may be it is a power problem so i left it unplugged overnight. Next day i plugged in the cable and did not get the red stand by light. I read the this topic and went to local repair shop and got the three cap. changed. I put it together and plugged in the cable but red stand by light is still not on and tv is not coming on. Local repair shop guy checked all the caps. and fuses on the power board for me and said everything is good. Any help will be appreciated.

    Sorry for reviving old topic but please help
    Thanks in advance
  14. y2000hei

    y2000hei Member

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    Thanks God you lead me to this forum

    Here is my story:
    My 6-yr old 32FD9944 plasma TV was suffering the clicking problem since December 2007. Accidentally, I found blowing hot air to the components inside through the vents could help to tackle the problem though I needed longer and longer time to heat up the panel. Last week, when I heated up the panel and the green light on, but the light turned to red and the panel was idle after about 10 times of green light blinking. I tried many times again but in vain. Finally, I gave it up and connected all the video stuff to my old 15-inch LCD monitor as a temporary measure.

    I searched the Internet for “repair plasma TV” or something like that many times but no possible solution could be found. Few days before, I searched “repair 32FD9954” (because I thought it is 9954 but it is 9944 in fact) in Yahoo. I found this forum and noticed that many people have the some problem. Some people luckily fixed their problem by replacing the 3 capacitors. Thanks Barbusa for his original suggestion and mmmmmrob's detailed description/procedures in his blog. I replaced the 3 capacitors last night. Magically, my plasma TV was recovered and alive! However, it still needs to click few times before it can start up.

    I am looking forward to fix the clicking problem. I have checked visually but there are no signs. Mimo G suggested to replace the 5W 6R8 resistor but I could locate the item on the PCB. Mimo G's further advice is much appreciated. On the other hand, I reckon that the clicking problem may be due to the faulty relay(s). Any other view?
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2008
  15. flashcode

    flashcode Member

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    OK guys, try this out.

    The Philips plasma TVs have 2 relays to switch the power on. Each relay trips a second after the other.
    The initial power to trip the relays comes from a standby circuit. This circuit, as the TV gets older, is not able to deliever enough power to close the 9V relays (they need a minimum of 6.75V to close, according to specs, but they might need more as they get older too).
    Solution:
    Check the voltage coming out of a half wave rectifier [transformer TR5500, diode D6504 (RG25), capacitor C2508 (4,7u)]; it should be the same you get in one side of both relays. Increase the voltage to exceed those 6.75V. How? Increase that 4,7u capacitor to, say, 10u.
    I hope it solves your problem. Good luck!
  16. Brynhyfryd

    Brynhyfryd Member

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    I've given up with mine (see above). If anybody wants a go themselves have a look on eBay.
    Rod
  17. emmab

    emmab Guest

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    HI to everyone:hiya:, i am new to this site but i have been checking it out for about a week.

    i am a girl ;) and i know absolutley nothing about electric components or anything to do with tvs. I also do not know how to start a new thread or is it okay to hi jack this one???:) (i like using the smiles)!

    However, my phillips plasma 42pf9945 42" stoped working approx 2 weeks ago. The same problems clicking etc... We removed it from the wall after reading this forum and thought we would have a look! Well i took down some numbers off of the white rectangle boxes which i think is capacitors? and took the numbers to Maplins. They never had a clue what i was talking about and said the numbers meant nothing.

    So now a week later i have gone on to the site rswww.com which i found on this site and ordered some capacitors 50v 100uf and 25v 1000 uf. I took the numbers from Barbusa thread on 05 06 2007. Which i have just noticed is a year old!:oops: I could not buy them separately only in bulk of 25 each so it came to £20 with delivery.

    Have i ordered the correct ones???? Someone :lease: advise. Thank you. Also i am sneaking this in during my work hours as boss is not in yet so a reply soon will appreciated.:D
  18. Brynhyfryd

    Brynhyfryd Member

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    Emmab "Aluminium Electrolytic - Radial capacitors 50v 100uf and 25v 1000 uf." should mean something to Maplins, certainly the Cardiff branch could supply me some with no problems - for a few coppers.

    Budnshe - yes!
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  19. y2000hei

    y2000hei Member

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    Why it only happens after the unit has been cooled down? If the problem is due to the deteriated relays, would it be better to replace them with new ones?
  20. emmab

    emmab Guest

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    Thank you, I will return the bulk pack to rsw tom and go to Maplins again with the correct info. I will give you all a update!!!
  21. budnshe

    budnshe Guest

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    Where would be good place to get some capacitors at. Mine that are bad for my phillips is 10V 3300uf . Can i go with a slightly higher Voltage one? Thanks
  22. ap shift

    ap shift Member

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    I posted back on page 4 on 13 11 2007 but only got my Philips 42 9944/01S fixed recently.

    The faulty component was part number 2540, a 100 uf electrolytic capacitor associated with part number 7540, a positive voltage regulator L7805 on the power supply board FM24.

    Groundhog posted on 12 12 07 that he had read that someone was getting his screen to start by blowing hot air over the circuit board from a hair dryer. I had noticed that the relays would lock in quicker when the screen had been running and was hot and when cooled down it wouldn’t. (If starting from “off” there was a period of silence until, gradually, a faint clicking of relays would be heard and build up to full clicking – so don’t give up if you get total silence! )

    I tried with a hot air gun for paint stripping and found if reasonably close to the area below and left of the blue rectangular relays it would start straight away.


    With the help of a friend with electronic design experience we tested all the components around the area by applying a hot soldering iron to them. Apparently transistors and capacitors will withstand temperature of 100C for 1 to 2 secs without damage (I wouldn’t have risked it without advice). Heat a component, switch on, if your lucky it clicks in straight away. Quite a moment!


    IMPORTANT. Each heated component has to cool down again before testing the next to avoid confusion.

    Replacing components on these boards is tricky. If you are not skilled I suggest you do some tests, identify suspect, and then seek someone with experience to actually fit the components for you. I know, but if you overheat the boards the foil tracks will come away and then you have more problems.

    My friends says these aluminium electrolytics are not top quality and if they were a dodgy batch (we’re all suffering with these faults) 5 years may be all they can manage.


    I hope this helps. It certainly was a relief to get my screen working reliably again. I paid £3700 for it 5½ years ago. I looked at current plasmas around £1K and the Viera looked pretty good but the picture is very processed compared to my old Phillips. (I feed it with SKY HD and HD discs converting HDMI to VGA using a Vision FC4 converter from Lektropacks .

    http://www.lektropacks.com/view_products.php?department=2&sub1=65&show=65

    Even 576p looks great. I have a projector as well).

    Good luck. Questions? Try me, I can alway ask my friend! :)
  23. y2000hei

    y2000hei Member

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    I'm newbie to electronics. Do you think I can also change the 2540 and 7540 to resolve the problem? Do you have photo to show me the relevant positions on the PCB? Many thanks.:lease:
  24. y2000hei

    y2000hei Member

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    Just found the photo of mine (FM23). Is that with the circle?

    Attached Files:

  25. ap shift

    ap shift Member

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    They're the ones. page 80 in the service manual. Download this if you haven't already (see earlier post for details) I doubt 7540 would be faulty.

    Try the hairdryer test!
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  26. edbarrow

    edbarrow Member

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    I've got the green light for ten seconds, then 'protection mode' blinking red light on my 37" philips plasma, the usual three caps have been replaced, but to no joy. I've also switched out 2510, 2540 and 2113.

    However, when the transistor at 7050 has its legs unsoldered, the unit fires up, green light comes on, and I can get audio out of the thing, even if the picture doesn't come on.:smashin: Could it be this transistor thats fried itself? if so, why is there only audio when it's removed, unless this transistor has killed something else on the board? My guess is it's this that activates the protection mode and someone else has removed the legs from the board (I re-attached them) in order to over-ride the protection mode.

    However, the relays re clicking away as they should so theres no problem on that side of the board. Can't see any dry joints either...

    Anyone any ideas? :lease: It's a mystery. :(
  27. y2000hei

    y2000hei Member

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    I replaced 2540 and 7540 last night and my plasma tv can now turn on immediately without the annoying clicks (like brand new):clap:. Replacing the 2662, 2663 and 2664 can only fix the red flashing light problem.

    To sum up, the following components are replaced:
    2662 - 100 uF 25V
    2663 - 100 uF 25V
    2664 - 1000 uF 25V
    2540 - 100 uF 25V
    7540 - L7805CV (TOA-220)

    One thing I would like to share with others is that desoldering wick is easier to use and more effective than any other vaccum ones.:lesson: Try it!

    Thanks ap shift again for his effort in finding the devil.:smashin:

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 22, 2008
  28. Aldownunder

    Aldownunder Guest

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    I may have a part way solution to at least reducing the frustration faced with the Phillips plasma cycling on and off on start up.

    I have a 42PF9966/79 that displays the same symptoms on cold startup as many others on this forum have experienced.

    I don't have the skills or patience to replace the PSU components, and I think the repair costs will approach the cost of a similarly specced new unit, so have decided to live with the issue until it packs up completely.

    However, I had a cunning plan that I proved over the last couple of days.

    On startup, my unit would cycle off moments after a picture was displyed on the screen at start up, which got me thinking: what if on startup there was no picture, but instead a blank screen which would draw considerably less power.

    As my plasma will always go to the lowest terrestrial (vs AV input) station I have selected as a favourite, I chose a frequency for station 1 that had no signal and turned this on as a favourite.

    Now when it starts, there is no signal, just a black screen. The last few mornings have been relatively cold and there is no doubt that the unit would have otherwise cycled on and off, but lo and behold, it comes on and stays on. I have switched to an AV input after 30 seconds and the TV has not missed a beat.

    This has allowed me to resist sticking my boot through the screen. I hope that it provides some joy for others.
  29. ap shift

    ap shift Member

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    Good to hear that that you had success, y2000hei.

    I’m sure we all sympathise with Aldownunder’s frustration. .

    Maybe what’s happening when you get the screen running on black for a while some heat is building up and a faulty electrolytic capacitor may be reaching it’s proper value allowing the circuit to function normally.

    If you could remove the back of the unit and try the hairdryer test maybe you could locate the faulty capacitor.

    http://www.avforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-529609.html

    While searching for info on this problem I found the above. Barbusa doesn’t tell us if ever fixed his problem. Some interesting comments about the life expectancy of these electrolytic capacitors.
  30. edbarrow

    edbarrow Member

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    It lives! :clap:

    The faulty component was a FET- one that controls the TV going into protection mode. With that replaced, as well as the surrounding diode and cap we're back in business. It's no. 7050. If you think you might have the same problem as me, take out the FET (the big black one) and if it conducts all three ways (use a multimeter) then it's gone. They're a few quid each to replace.

    Good luck everyone! :thumbsup:

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