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Philips plasma repair advice thread

Discussion in 'Plasma TVs' started by High_Pressure, Sep 25, 2006.

  1. JayCee

    JayCee Active Member

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    Yes, it was a typo on my part.
    The 6f and 6H will be manufacturers markings and you can forget about them.
    The original caps were "surface-mount" types in an aluminium body but you can replace them with standard types okay.
    Good luck.
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  2. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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  3. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Something totally different, but related to the TV. I did a software update via the usb while it was still working ish, trying to fix it, but as I didn't had the remote, once the update was done, I turned off the tv from the power button on the TV... Apparently its not something to do from what I now read in Philips manual :(
    Anyway, when I got a remote working, I tried again to update the software via the USB again ( hoping to rectifie the bugger) but the TV doesn't recognise the auto play on the USB, it just recognise the USB with its contend ( pictures etc...) but without the update or the auto run?
    The last time I could look at it, the update that was suppose to be there and the software updated to 2008 something was revert to 2007???
    Is there any way I can get the auto run to update the tv again once its working, if ever... Or I really messed up the internal software turning off the TV with its own power button???
    Thank you :)
  4. UKEuphoria

    UKEuphoria Member

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    TV Still dead.
    swapped out a loads of caps + MC33368P & MC34067P. Same 6-3 red light fault.
    Getting weird results on the voltages. Preconditioner 400V hot measures 0V from pin 6 of 5600(5660) transformer using hot ground (- side of cap 2616). But measuring 400V hot on the AUX psu board reads 700+ Volts!!! Measured across cap 2P16 and goes out of range (800V+) on the digital meter when measuring pin 2 of 7P02 (STP6NK60Z) to 1p05 heatsink as hot ground.
    I tried a different meter and exactly the same reading.

    How can the 400V rail be above 700 Volts?

    Across cap 2P16 is 738V when green light on power up and Exactly 700V when red light is on after initial plug in or power up failed and 6-3 flashing.

    Any ideas?

    Also 3v3_display is ok and +5_STBY ok. And this is with PSU, AUx PSU, SSB and mains filter on the bench with no XSUS or video board connected.
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2012
  5. feyizu

    feyizu Member

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    I had the same problem with my 42in Philips plasma and I could not update via USB auto and/or manual..then I ask the Philips engineer for reason; he said that if there is any problem on TV update can not be started unless it fixed it.(My plasma has 6-3 red blinking and I could not find exact solution because of different PSU board)
    I made the update once two tears ago before the 6-3 red blinking problem so engineer's explanations may be logic, please consider it.
  6. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Thank you for that :)
    I thought I did something terribly wrong with the power button as it state to use the remote control, not the TV button...
    I am stil waiting on some replies about the caps as I like to get the proper flat one if possible, but they either come from China, way too long, or are sold by 100s, way too many...
    If by Monday I am still stuck I just go for the ordinary caps and got them soldered instead.
    All the best :)
    Thank you
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2012
  7. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Hi All,
    Would those be OK?
    10x Minature Radial Electrolytic Capacitor 2,2uF 50V | eBay

    Maplin only had one left and I need 2 :(
    I got this from Maplin tho, will that do as well?
    Low Profile 5mm Electrolytic Capacitors : Electrolytic : Maplin Electronics
    code KQ65

    Thank you :)
  8. JayCee

    JayCee Active Member

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    Yes, they should do fine.
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  9. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Thank you :)
    I'll order the ebay now :)
    Hopefully all be OK, up and running by the end of the week...
  10. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Hi,
    Got a reply from Phillips.
    ""The first few things to check are that its a blank usb stick, formatting it before loading the autorun.upg softwrae is always reccomended.

    Somtimes redownloading the software is useful as any slight corruption in there will effect the TVs ablity to update.

    Lastly check the current software version as if you try and load the same or lower version of the software it will break the TV""

    I just cheacked the software and I think I have thelatest, BX31E-0-101-0-0
    but it state 16/ 12/ 2007
    While the newer software was released in 2008 I think?
    Anyway, good to know that the USB should be "blank" and that if we try to install the same softwae, the TV might die:eek:
  11. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Just an update.
    I changed all the above, 3 caps and the chip.
    Got the TV back together last Saturday ( 2 days ago) and it solved the 6 slow and 3 fast blinking.
    The TV has been working fine since then :thumbsup:
    Just need the originlal remote control for it now to be trully happy as I need/ want to go into the reset/ adustment and all but I cannot do it with the side buttons :thumbsdow ( Philips is selling the remote for 54 pounds, very dear for a remote :blush: )
    Then to all that read this, to all that have the same problem :lease: , this has fixed the TV, how long its going to last I don't know but so far I am a happy camper. The picture on those is really nice :D
    The parts were 11.50 pounds, the soldering was 15 pounds.
    What brought me here was the 6 slow and 3 fast red blinks.
    I hope this can help other too :)
    Thank you for all the help too :clap:
  12. feyizu

    feyizu Member

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    It is good news for me that you have solved your 6-3 red blinking problem..since my plasma(42PF9631D/10),it's 6-3 red blinking problem and its PSU board(3104 3284 2681 - 2K6) is exatly same (according to given P/N)I hope your experiences will be helpfull for me solving my problem as well.

    Is it possible to indicate(mark) the replaced parts(caps&chip) on the PSU board picture attached.Please also attached the replacement parts details(as detail as possible)..eg.part number,values,quantitiy etc.
    Please also check the PSU board which it is same as yours.

    Hoping to hear you soon and I believe that this will also helpfull many other 9631D/10 users solving their common 6-3 problem.
    Many thank in advance for your effort.

    P.s..related with the remote please be consider Philips 32PFL5604H/12 LCD's remote same as with the 42PF9631D/10 plasma as functionality
    but cheaper than 42 in plasma(around 8 € at European seller's web sites)..I now because I have both TVs in my home and I can use their remotes with each other
    check the link http://www.remotes.lt/product.php?id_product=871

    Attached Files:

  13. Amarante

    Amarante Member

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    Thank you for the link of the remote. It can be really handy. I love the original tho, its a really nice one, but I may got the other version tho as money is tight...
    About the Caps I mentionned what I got in post 637 with the links some from Maplin some from ebay.
    As JayCee pointed out, the "long legs" caps were Ok as replacement for the short Alu body as I couln't get them fast enough or only by the 100s...
    The Chip was bought on ebay:
    eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace
    I have circled in red the area where the chip and the caps have been replaced on my board. They are next to each other. See picture, Top left.
    I only new about those as I brought the board to a plasmatv shop, he looked at some internet pages and told me that the 6 blink 3 blink is a failure of those 4 parts and they need to be replaced.
    After days on the internet, this guy had the solution in a blink of an eye...
    Hope it help.
    If you need more details let me know :)
    All the best :smashin:

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 11, 2012
  14. UKEuphoria

    UKEuphoria Member

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    42pf9631d/10 PSU 310432642681

    Does anyone know where the relys get there voltage from? After replacing 2485 near the relays (and some other parts) the relays stopped switching. The replacement cap tested good and i swapped it again just in case. But no joy. I thought I might have toasted one of the nearby trasistors but the entire area was dead apart from Supply_ON signal. Ran a bypass from +5v_STBY at cap 2533. Which made the relays act as per normal. But this causes a fault voltage of 6.5v on pin 10 of MC34067P!
    The schematic says that the relays can get there voltage from either +5V_STBY, +5V_INT_SW, +9V_STBY or RELAY_VOLTAGE. depending on what jumpers are in place. But all continuity checks say none of the jumpers are there and I can't work out where they were getting power from before I broke whatever it is that I killed?
    On my board. +5V_STBY and +5V_INT_SW are linked somewhere. +9V isnt an option as none of the components on the standby section of AD1 exist and I have no clue where RELAY_VOLTAGE is generated??? :lease:

    P>S. I have replaced a hell of a lot of caps and a few other components. I used the constant turn it on/off/on/off/onn till it worked method for about a month after the initial 6_3 error. This running it while there was a problem has caused tons of damage to the psu!. So fix it quick, don't keep forcing it to work.
  15. Stuckinfl

    Stuckinfl New Member

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    Hi, I have a 50 inch phillips plasma model no. 50PF7220A. Just got back from vacation, turned on the tv, it worked for about an hour when the bottom half of the picture went black. The top half still has a good picture and the sound is ok. Can anyone help with might be the problem? Think it might be the y-buffer.

    Thanks in advance...
  16. ironmanx

    ironmanx New Member

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    hi all
    i have problem with my tv Philips 42FD9954/17s (Power Supply 3122357 21373) when turned on, the green led is five seconds and turns to the Blinking red, and so it is no sound or image, in the power supply I checked almost all the capacitors and everything seems normal. I need help if anyone had the same problem and he gets to solve it... please help.[​IMG]
  17. Jabba11111

    Jabba11111 New Member

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    I've read all the postings and it's hopefull to read how many people managed to repair their tv, same that it occurs so many times. And yes i have it as well:( i have a bdh5021v/00 and my problem sound similar to the one all the people have had.
    1- only one click when I put the power on
    2- I have power but screen stays black
    3- My front led stays green
    4- my inner leds there are 6 from whom 3 burn

    Can anybody tell me which caps to replace?

    Humm can't upload pic from ipad...aaahhhhh!

    Can anybody help me out?

    Thank in advance
  18. homerging

    homerging Member

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    I'm trying to make a Philips 42PF7320 work.

    If I was to replace the LJ44-00101B power board with a working one, is it a case of plug-and-play, or does the replacement power board need to be specifically set up for the particular TV model? I'm assuming it's the former but I'd like to make sure.

    This is what I wrote elsewhere:
    The four 8A 250v ceramic cartridge fuses at all give 0.1 to 0.3 ohm readings which I guess means they haven't blown. The two fuseable resistors at R8012 and R8013 haven't blown either. Can the absence of relay clicks be caused by failed electrolyte capacitors alone or does it indicate other damage?
  19. Tic

    Tic Member

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    Dear DiJit,

    I have a Tv same model as yours and has the same symptom. Have you got an answer to your query, if so I would most apprecite your help.

    Jean Luc Yu

    Best regards

    :lease:
  20. losso

    losso New Member

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    Yo dude, how can I get the service manual for the 50 inch plasma Philips? I have to do some repairs on one for a customer n the Philips website doesn't have the service or repair manual, only the user manual which is useless.???
  21. Tic

    Tic Member

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    I have replaced all the electrolytic capacotors in the PSU and it still does not work. When the set is cold and when switched on it would start and give sound but screen black for approximately one minute then would go to standby. When switched off and on again it would start for only five seconds then go to standby.
    Any one who can help would be most welcome.

    Thanks:lease:
  22. adrian125

    adrian125 New Member

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    Hi all,

    I of course am having the same problems with my 42 inch Philips plasma. After examining the two notorious caps and submitting them to a Cap Checker, they were fine. However my problem is in the 6.8 ohm fusible resistor, r8013. Initially the ac input line fuse was blown, so I changed that. As soon as I plugged the set back in, r8013 burnt up and destroyed itself. Thinking this resistor may have blown the first fuse, I replaced the resistor with a higher rated one(10 w) due to lack of options at the nearby stores. To my dismay r8013 burnt itself again. Now I know there is something wrong with the circuit behind this resistor, but due to the "non-service" nature of the PSU, the service manual isn't providing me the schematics needed to diagnose any problems. Any ideas on what component could be shorting causing the r8013 to fire itself? :lease:
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2012
  23. Tic

    Tic Member

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    Hi Adrian, I cannot locate r8013 in the schematic diagram, I have same in PDF, I can email it to you if it can be of any help. Just give me your email address, mine is <email address removed>

    Rgds

    Tic
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 22, 2012
  24. Orson

    Orson Moderator

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    Not a good idea to have email addresses in an open forum. If you need to contact another member, please use the Private Messaging (PM) system.

    Alternatively, you can upload PDF files as attachments to your posts in here, especially if it's something that may be useful to other members?
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  25. Struggo

    Struggo New Member

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  26. ptreapairer

    ptreapairer New Member

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    Philips 42fd9944 with blinking red problem. When turning it on, green led flashes for a few seconds then tv shuts down and stays with red led flashing. The solutions in first posts (replacing that caps) did not work for me. The solution was to replace the caps number 2533 and 2532. Note: cap number 2532 was a 10uF 100V on the TV, but in the scheme it is marked as a 100uF 50V. Did not understood that :confused:
  27. Joda

    Joda New Member

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    You guys seem to know what you are talking about, really enjoyed reading through this forum. So I acquired from my friend this 50" Philips Plasma that doesn't work. When you power the TV on the IndicatorLight is Blue but the screen is not responisve... stays black. I have removed the back panel and searched for any scaring or bad caps-- there were none everyting appeard fine. Just curious what y'all think, maybe could suggest what my next step in diagnostic would be aside from picking up the multimeter and testing every transistor on the tv :thumbsdow.
  28. King Mustard

    King Mustard Member

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    Model: Philips 42PF5521D

    The TV has green light blinking in a pattern, which is two short blinks, one long.

    If you turn the TV off at the wall, wait a few seconds, then turn it back on, sometimes it works just fine. If that doesn't work, doing it usually works within 3 attempts - so we know the TV technically works.

    Also, my Samsung SyncMaster 2232BW had a problem with the screen itself blinking when you first turned it on. You had a wait a few minutes (whilst it's on), then turn it off and back on and it would work. Turns out this was a capacitor issue, they took a long time to charge.

    Do you think this is a capacitor issue?

    If so, how can it be fixed?

    I'm more than willing to have a go myself.
  29. Tic

    Tic Member

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    Hi all,

    I have changed all capacitors and the problem remains unsolved. Finally I do not think that the problem comes from the power supply, maybe it is something wrong in the video controller. As I mentioned in an early thread the TV in cold condition would start up with sound but no image (the screen remains black) then after 1 minute it would cut off and go to standby. when trying to swicth it on again it would stay on for only 5 secs.
    Unless someone can advise I fear I have to give up fixing this TV.
    :(

    So any advise most welcome guys
  30. Gene661

    Gene661 Member

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    Hi

    I have a 10 year old Philips 42FD9944 screen. Recently, it stopped turning on from cold, the LED red standby turing to green accompanied by a double click, then, after a few seconds the LED flashes red accompanied by single click - no picture or sound. On the basis of a thread elsewhere, I replaced a bunch of 100uF 25V capacitors: now turns on though picture an sound transient - the offset of this being accompanied by an electrical buzz and the set turns off and the LED again flashes red.
    Any advice would be gratefully received. Cheers.

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