Discussion in 'Projectors' started by blueye, Dec 29, 2011.
That LCD Alignment option isn't on the TW9000 that I've got...
Is the review going to be posted today?
It is in the service menu!!!
1. Switch on the PJ
2. Press and hold the Menu-Button for 8 sec.
3. Press the ESC-Button twice
Now a new Window with Informations about the Beamer appears. With the
"Arrow-right" and "Arrow-left"-Button you can see several other Information-Windows.
4. Press again the Menu-Button for 8 sec.
5. Press again the ESC-Button twice.
Now a new Windows appears. On the left side you see 6 lines named
"DIP-SW1" to "DIP-SW 6". Move with the "Arrow-down-Button" to "DIP-SW 6" and press "Enter".
On the right side there are 8 lines named "Bit 0" to "Bit 7" and then "0" and "1" with a white (=deactivated) or green (=activated) Rectangle before the 0 or 1.
Move now with the "Arrow-down"-Button to the line named "Bit 5" and then activate with the "Arrow-right"-Button.
Don't change other bits or DIP-Switches!
Now press Enter and then leave the menu by pressing ESC twice.
Now switch off the PJ and then on again.
Now you can find a new submenu named "LCD Alignment" in the "Advanced"-Submenu. Here you can adjust the pixel alignment, you can activate or deactivate the adjustments or reset them.
The "LCD Alignment"-submenu will appear now permanently in the "Advanced"-Submenu until you deactivate "Bit 5" in DIP-SW 6.
Nor mine, I looked earlier when I first got it and only found reference through the Greek website. There was mention of pressing and holding a combination of buttons but that just brought up another menu with various info and possible fault codes.
Posts crossed. I'll try that again.
That concerns me that its still only accessible via service menu 'tinkering'. One of the main concerns raised regularly in the owners forum on AVF is the amount of convergence variance between individual m/c's, it seems this is not something checked in the manufacture, and it seems to be a bit of a lotttery as to whether you get a good one or not. From what I can gather, minor variance can be adjusted out, but you're talking about a m/c swap if it's outside a certain range.
Also, for some reason, the US model (5010) does not 'hide' this menu, can't explain why they would for Europe?
Thanks for the info, strange that this is hidden in the service menu.
The review will be up today.
That multi-point convergence gadget troubles me.
There is no possible way it can work without degrading image quality. You are - to all intents and purposes - applying small amounts of keystone correction individually to the three colours. It's just impossible for this to not have a negative effect as you are no longer 1:1 pixel mapped the second you make a single adjustment.
Maybe that's why they removed it from the user menu.
Does that give you a catch-22 scenario though? You could either have a 1:1 pixel-mapping with potential mis-convergence, or correct the convergence and lose the 1:1 mapping?
I'm hoping this has been over-blown by our chums across the pond, and that we've nothing to worry about in reality
The 9000 has motorised panel alignment.
If I'd designed the firmware, I would have made it so that adjusting the middle point of the display used the motorised adjustment and all the other points used the software.
The only way to prove this will be with testing, but on the assumption that the above is proved to be the case, then I'd suggest only ever adjusting the middle point.
I've got the 6000 and the optics are so poor that you can't resolve small convergence errors anyway! I expect the 9000 will be better in this regard...
I believe Steve is correct about the motorised panel alignment and better optics on the TW9000 and I'd also agree with his suggested approach. I do not believe that panel adjustment would introduce scaling or adversely affect 1:1 pixel mapping.
I didn't have a chance to actually check this and personally I'm always loathed to start messing around in service menus, especially when conducting a consumer review. However I will feed back to Epson on all these points.
Epson TW9000 (EH-TW9000) 3 Chip LCD 1080p 3D Projector Review | AVForums.com - UK Online
I haven't had chance to read the review, but judging by the final scores, it looks like justice has been done!
I just wondered if you know of any additional features that can be enabled on the 5900/6000 using the same service menu? Particularly I need to be able to lock the colour space, but cannot see it as an option. I'm not expecting to be able to do things the projector isn't capable of, however I am sure Epson probably share some circuits with features enabled/disabled to differentiate the models. Thanks.
Unfortunately i don't, but you can search the internet. I found the above there.
i'm trying to get my 3d on my new 9000 setup but i must be missing something. When i had a demo i had on allan's setup at ideal-av it "popped out at me" straight away on avatar 3d i'm just not finding it on my projector. What setting's do you have enabled for 3d? On my projector the one setting i can see that might make a difference - 3D depth is greyed out - how do i enable it? My image setting is set to 3D dynamic. Any ideas
The 3d depth setting is only for 2d > 3d conversion.
Are you watching the same title?
yeah we actually we watched my disc on his setup. Only difference was the screen which i've got on order
Whilst not immediately obvious, I do think think that the correct set up of parameters (and more so a calibration), can help once the gamma has been set up properly, just like it can with 2D when gamma is set up properly.
Anyway, what is your room environment and you screen parameters. What screen are you comparing it to at Allan's the Seymour, or the React II?
i demoed it on the reactii which i have on order and my viewing environment is a living room with lots of light coloured walls with lots of reflections - hence the react II order I could see the 3d depth fine on the movie when i watched it, it just didn't pop out at me like it did on the demo. As you say the proper settings and hopefully the new screen will give me what i'm looking for. I'll possibly get the projector calibrated once my building work is complete., but i'm not convinced with this calibration stuff. It's all well and good getting the projector to a set std, bu i like my images bright and saturated - probably a mile away from the calibration std Also the demo was on an uncalibrated projector as well.
That is probably why you are seeing the difference, i.e. you are likely to have a higher black floor than in Al's set up giving you a reduced dynamic range (difference between the lowest black and highest white) as the reflections are washing out the picture somewhat.
I understand your viewpoint on the calibration, but there are reasons why we do the calibrations, i.e. increase accuracy of natural colours (we want skintones to look like skintones etc), maximise the dynamic range (we do not want shadow detail crushed, or whites clipped), whilst maximising detail in the whole range. Colour saturation only forms part of a calibration
The primary aim of a calibration is to try and get the picture to that of which the director intended (that is why there are set standards within the film industry). Every projector that comes out the box will be slightly different in picture, I have seen some displays, which have crushed balcks so much out of the box, that the picture were missing a whole car in the car park scene of the dark knight (one of my preferred test discs)...
Hopefully someone will be local to you, so that they can show you a calibrated image, and show you the differences, and benefits which we work towards.
ill see what the new screen does for the image and go from there. i do understand the benefits of calibration but need some honest opinions of people who have had it done. i also need to find somebody willing to come up north
No problem, I understand. If you do decide to explore the calibration route in the future, let me know as I know enough calibrators that we could cover the whole of the UK (near enough) so could put you in contact with one...
Im quite happy with my Epson 5500 which i got for £1700 (damaged box from epson) Is this a step up in quality 2d wise?
May be tempted for the 3D. Reviews seem good.
I`m not certain its a step up 2d wise as its a while since i`ve seen a 5500 and they are/were very good.
I have to say the 9000 is certainly very good with 2d and certainly seems to be with 3d, have you read Steves review of the 9000, its quite a good one.
Does FI on TW9000 needs to be "jerky"?
I mean ,doesn't jerky picture defeats the purpose of FI?
After cca 20 hours messing with it ,I'm gonna go crazy.
Note: if someone wants to give me advices that i don't need to use FI because picture is unnatural with it, please don't.
It's enough to have AI and not use it because that lovely low rumbly noise what comes with it...
If it makes the picture worse, then why use it? There's no point in doing so 'just because it's there'.
Half the features you get on modern devices are there just to bulk out the specification list so that people who buy based on specification alone think they are getting a good deal.
A neighbour got a new Samsung LCD/LED TV at the weekend. After we had disabled about 15 (I'm not kidding) picture 'enhancements', the image finally looked like it should!
Well , I'm one of those who like FI with some stuff because for me it doesn't look "unnatural"...
but that isn't important.
important thing is ...if it's there because I have payed for it , I want it to works / I want to be able to use it so that I can make a decision will I use AI and FI - not that this decision is decided by something. For this kind of money that's...
Do you get my point?
To be honest no i don't. All processing works well with some source material and not others. Even in the manual it says if you notice any distortion switch FI off.
I'm afraid I don't, no.
You can make a decision - it's possible to turn it on or off. If you turn it on, and there are unacceptable side-effects, then you either live with the side-effects or simply turn it back off. The choice is yours.
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