Any Yamaha RX-V1073 owners?

Happy days! Who would have thought it would just need a reboot though. I also work in IT and I wouldn't have thought to do that.

No worries mate. I've had loads of advice/help on AVF, so always nice to give back.

Enjoy your new toy in all it's glory :D
 
Thatnks - I'm slowly getting used to it after years as an Onkyo user where you could state what sound source you wanted to output for whatever input...you could even output DTS HD MA as Dolby Digital for some reason...if it took your fancy.

I think you are mistaken. THe Onkyo receiver was no different to any other AV receiver in this respect and you can only output Dolby Digital if the source is encoded as such. Dolby Digital is not a mode and its a format. Formats are not something you can choose between with the receiver like you would with DSP and the formats you receive are determined by the source.
 
You could output DTS HD MA as DTS HD MA PLzII...
 
There's no such thing as DTS-HD Master Audio PLII. Pro LOgic only enables itself if the format in question is missing the channels it is designed to create pseudo channels for. Pro Logic has no effect whatsoever upon 5.1 discrete channels preaent and DTS-HD Master Audio includes at lease the six channels that PLII would cover. Why would you need to use PLII in conjunction with a DTS-HD Master Audio encoded audio track? Not only can't the ONkyo do as you suggest because it is impossible. PLII is not applicable to discrete 5.1 formats. PLIIx would create two pseudo back channels in order to create 7.1 from a discrete 5.1 format, is this what you mean? If so then the Yamaha can do exactly this and PLIIx can be applied to 5.1 DTS-HD Master Audio encoded content to create 7.1 output, but the dicrete 5.1 channels are left unadulterated by this. You'd need to actually have a 7.1 setup and configuration to use PLIIx.

PLiiz iisn't included onboard Yamaha receivers because Yamaha utilise their own additional speaker system in the form of presence speakers. PLIIz is the DSP format associated with height speakers and Yamaha offer no option for height speakers. Again, this would have no effect upon discrete channels and is simply a DSP mode that creates pseudo height channels. You'd need additional height speakers attached to an AV receiver that includes PLIIz in order to actually take advantage of it. You cannot use it without the additional height speakers. Did you have additional height speakers hooked up to your Onkyo receiver? These speakers are located at the front and up above your front left and right speakers.
 
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No you're right - I was think of Audyssey DSX...
 
Again, Audyssey DSX would also require additional speakers. Only receivers that include Audyssey's room correction also include DSX. DSX offers the possibilty of adding additional presence and or height speakers. It too can only be utilised if the additional speakers are present in your setup. Also note that DSX also has no effect upon the actual discrete channels present and create additional channel that you need the extra speakers in order to benefit from them.
 
Again, Audyssey DSX would also require additional speakers. Only receivers that include Audyssey's room correction also include DSX. DSX offers the possibilty of adding additional presence and or height speakers. It too can only be utilised if the additional speakers are present in your setup.
That's why I said PLIIz - which has height speakers...I've conceded mate. I give in. I admitted I was wrong - job done.
 
Maybe have a play with some of the DSP options you can apply to discrete formats? You can tweak this beyond any option you'd ever get via any other make of receiver. Yamaha are the kings of DSP and can create real enviroments within most rooms. No other manufacturer has the expertise or experience relating to DSP to do this. You can alter the additional processing to accomodate your room's size or wall coverings. I normally frown upon manuiplulating the audio in such a manner, but Yamaha really do know what they are doing in respect to this and the way they do it can actually improve upon the original audio. It is something I miss with my current Denon receiver. Here are some of the options for example:

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Not only are these modes applicable, but they themselves can be modified and customised using the following option:


Parameters for adjusting early-reflected sound:
Adjusts attenuation characteristics of early-reflected sound. You can create a lively sound field (with a high reverberant sound level) as you increase the value, and a dead sound field (with a low reverberant sound level) as you decrease the value. Creating either a lively sound field or a dead sound field in an actual music hall is determined by the acoustic absorption characteristics of reflection surfaces. A dead sound field is created when the attenuation time is short while a lively sound field is created when the attenuation time is long.

Parameters for specifying room size
Produces different senses of sound expansion according to room sizes specified. In a large size room such as a music hall, the duration from when reflected sound is heard until when the next reflected sound is heard is long. Thus, different senses of sound expansion can be created by changing the duration. 1.0 is the original room size. When this parameter is set to 2.0, each side of the room is defined as twice larger than the original room size.

Parameters for adjusting reverberant sound
Reverb Time parameter adjusts the attenuation time of the rear reverberant sound based on the time that about 1kHz reverberant sound takes for 60dB of attenuation. Reverberant sound attenuates faster as you decrease the value. Reverb Time adjustment allows you to create a natural reverberant sound, by setting the attenuation time longer for a sound source or room with less echo, or shorter for a sound source or room with more echo.

Reverb Delay parameter adjusts the time difference between the beginning of the direct sound and the beginning of the reverberation sound. The larger the value, the later the reverberation sound begins. Increasing the value of Reverb Delay allows you to create a reverberant sound in a wider area for the same Reverb Time.

Parameters for defining attenuation characteristics of early-reflected sound
Adjusts the attenuation of reflected sound. You can create a lively sound field (with a high reverberant sound level) as you increase the value, and a dead sound field (with a low reverberant sound level) as you decrease the value. Creating either a lively sound field or a dead sound field in an actual music hall is determined by the acoustic absorption characteristics of reflection surfaces. A dead sound field is created when the attenuation time is short while a lively sound field is created when the attenuation time is long.

Parameters for adjusting reverberant sound
Reverb Time parameter adjusts the attenuation time of the rear reverberant sound based on the time that about 1kHz reverberant sound takes for 60dB of attenuation. Reverberant sound attenuates faster as you decrease the value. Reverb Time adjustment allows you to create a natural reverberant sound, by setting the attenuation time longer for a sound source or room with less echo, or shorter for a sound source or room with more echo.

Reverb Delay parameter adjusts the time difference between the beginning of the direct sound and the beginning of the reverberation sound. The larger the value, the later the reverberation sound begins. Increasing the value of Reverb Delay allows you to create a reverberant sound in a wider area for the same Reverb Time.

Reverb Level parameter adjusts the reverberation sound level. Increasing the value of Reverb Level makes the reverbration sound level higher, which allows you to create more echo.
 
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I don't have height channels any more as I took them down after ditching Onkyo. For me, the heights only came into their own when using DTS Neo X - PLIIz was a bit of a damp squib...I had a 5010 that I had to sell for financial reasons and it had 9 channels of amplification onboard - when I got the 1073, I had to choose between FH and SB speakers so stuck with the SB's as there are a lot more Blu-rays being released with DTS HD MA 7.1 tracks. I'm just trying to get used to using Surround Decode over Straight. The latter implies that the track is played untouched - which is great for 5.1 and 2 channel music - but not great for what I mentioned last night with HD channels broadcasting in 2.0 - the dialogue in the front left and rights is a bit of a pain. But I'll take your advice and use Surround Decode as you said that the discrete formats will over ride it anyway...going to have to run YPAO again as well because the surrounds sound a little lively for my tastes - not used to hearing music in those as the THX modes I used seemed to keep everything very front heavy.
 
You cannot apply any decoder modes or DSP while using the STRAIGHT mode. The purpose of the STRAIGHT mode is to bypass such processing on the fly. You'd need to disengage the STRAIGHT mode to use the surround decoder modes. STRAIGHT results in you getting exactly what is being output from the source without any additional DSP applied. It does still use bass management though. PURE DIRECT goes one step further and also bypasses the bass management as well as turning off unused circuitry and the display on the receiver in order to try suppress interference.

If you want to have the surround decoder modes applied to applicable cpontent then disengage STRAIGHT and select a surround decoder mode. The option you select will not apply to discrete 5.1 formats, but will kick in when the audio is only stereo. You can press STRAIGHT at anytime to bypass the additional processing being applied the other modes. Disengage it and you will return to the state the receiver was in prior to you engaging STRAIGHT. Onkyo receivers have similar such arrangements and this isn't something specific to Yamaha.
 
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Mines on its way tomorrow, have to say I know I'm a kill joy but am I the only one that hates wiring Av's up?.To use Banana plugs, or not to use Banana plugs that's the question? An unnecessary link in the chain or worth while doing? I start with the mic but I'm never happy without at least two weeks of constant fine tuning, even tempted to copy my current settings first, especially with the sub. All my other past set ups I've gone with the speakers set to small, 80HZ crossovers but with my BK sub it just didn't sound right so ended up more than happy with Large & I think 90/100Hz crossover setting, by my ears it was far better :-(..start saving again for speaker & bluRay upgrade if it ticks all the boxes I'm keeping this AV for a while, might even sneak the 671 upstairs rather than sell. Once again thanks for advise & passing on a bargain ppl...
 
Crossovers are not applied to speakers set as LARGE. The crossover is only applicable to speakers designated SMALL so if you've designated your speakers LARGE then no frequencies are being filtered by the crossover onboard the receiver and no frequencies are being redirected away from your speakers to the subwoofer.
 
Sorry meant to say Bass setting as Large full range, ops sorry.. With the BK subs you can use both connection cables also, which sounds better when I use the Phono stage on the amp with my deck..
 
LARGE is in relation to the bass management and crossover and LARGE is a term that is used to describe FULL RANGE speakers. The term large shouldn't be associated with the actually size of your speakers and even quite sizeable floorstanders are not technically full range. Full range would require a speaker to be able to handle and reproduce frequencies as low as 20Hz. You'd need to spend about £30 - 40K to buy such speakers. There's more reason to redirect frequencies away from speakers than to not do so. Id also suggest not outputting the same low frequencies via both your sub and speakers simultaneously as this invariably causes overblown bass and boom, You can actually have the frequencies sent to both the sub and the speakers without need to use the nutrik connection to the sub. The Yamaha has a setting that would do this without the additional wiring, but as said, it is an inadvisable option.
 
Watched Rush through this last night as a kind of opening night and couldn't really fault it. I had to manually measure my speakers and levels using ye ol tape measure and sound pressure metre - the distances were quote a way off and my surrounds and surround backs were way too high as I previously said they seemed a bit hot - about 10db too hot as it turned out. Still got them all at the right level now using 0 on the dial as the reference point so it now sounds good.
In other news, I've sussed the surround modes thanks to Dante01 but Airplay has vanished again...:(
 
Seems as though every time I switch it off I lose my Airplay function and have to unplug it from the mains each time to get it back...
 
Strange one with the Airplay. just clutching at straws here, but is it maybe an ip address conflict? Maybe assign the receiver a static IP address and see what happens.

It does seem as if your router/receiver don't get on, but could just be a setting that needs changing somewhere. Could maybe try Yamaha support.

Reading your prevoius post and I might make some tweaks to my speaker distance measurements too. After the YPAO auto setup I did notice that the distances between the front left and sub were slightly different even though they're fairly close to each other. I just assumed it was something to do with the setup, so just left it. Might have to get the ruler out.

Also I might give 1 or 2 of those Movie sound modes a go too. I've only ever played about quickly with the sound programs whilst watching tv and just flicking really quickly between them. I've not really liked what I've heard, but obviously tv audio is not the best sound source. Will give them a proper go over the weekend when watching a film.
 
Reading your prevoius post and I might make some tweaks to my speaker distance measurements too. After the YPAO auto setup I did notice that the distances between the front left and sub were slightly different even though they're fairly close to each other. I just assumed it was something to do with the setup, so just left it. Might have to get the ruler out.

Your room's acoustics can influence the distances. The distances determine the delay imposed upon the audio associated with each of the channels and the measurement mic measures how long it takes the audio to reach it. The speed of spund is a constant so the time taken should result in the exact distance, but sound can bounce around before reaching a destination. Subs are particularly prone to issues if placed in close proximity to walls, corners or indeed your other speakers. The sub's output bounces about before getting to the listening position,hence the unusual distance readings the receiver calculates.


I'd suggest not altering the distances and try not to equate the distances the receiver measures to physical distance you measure. You can manually measure the distances, but you cannot account for your room's acoustics and speaker placement in relation to it. If the distances are way out then I'd suggest you consider moving the sub to a better location.
 
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Ruler & I thought I was OCD, fantastic. All set up just run the one setting on the Mic, not sure if multiple is the way to go? Mic set all speakers to Large so if changed to Small & the one Sub cable as suggested by Dante, Bass crossover set to 120HZ but couldn't remember if I had to set speakers to 80Hz? If so I couldn't find that option. Haven't had the chance to try Airplay yet but hopefully today at some point. Seems to have more weight compared to the the 671 but it'll take me time to sit & listen to really pass judgement
 
Thanks for the explanation. Kind of what I was originally thinking, but didn't understand it completely.

My sub is right in the corner of the room and right next to the front left speaker.

Would you recommend me to leave the measurements as they are then?
 
I'd maybe suggest you consider moving the sub out of the corner and running the YPAO calibration again until you find a better location for the sub. Other than that, I'd leave the distances as they are or you'll need a very high quality SPL metre to actually determine the distances yourself.
 
The readings I was getting were so far out that I had to do something about it to be honest. The levels for the surround speakers were so high that I could hear them over the fronts - at 75db they were off the dial on my sound metre and I had to bring all four down by about 6-7db each. Sounds much better now and I just use through so not to mess up the time alignment.
As for Airplay - I just checked my router and switched off dhcp on the receiver and there was indeed 2 devices with the same IP address so I changed the receiver one and it works again...one more I owe you!
 
Thanks for the explanation. Kind of what I was originally thinking, but didn't understand it completely.

My sub is right in the corner of the room and right next to the front left speaker.

Would you recommend me to leave the measurements as they are then?
I have a Radio Shack metre that was calibrated by a THX engineer last year that I could loan you if you want? Far better than the apps that you can download...
 
The radioshack metre isn't good enough to accurately measure low frequencies.
 
I know but I'm not investing £100's to setup 1 receiver...
 

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