[nstandley]

Some of the other threads that feature this CRT and the 409 model are getting a little messy with non owners deriding the product after a visit to Currys.

I have set this thread up so that owners can swap setup details.

Firstly, how do you access the Service Menu, and what configuration do your suggest?

What code are you using on your Sky remote? Does it give you complete functionality?

Also, can anyone recommend a Video Engineer in the Telford/Shropshire area who could do a ISF calibration on this set for me?

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by nstandley

Some of the other threads that feature this CRT and the 409 model are getting a little messy with non owners deriding the product after a visit to Currys.

I have set this thread up so that owners can swap setup details.

Firstly, how do you access the Service Menu, and what configuration do your suggest?

What code are you using on your Sky remote? Does it give you complete functionality?

Also, can anyone recommend a Video Engineer in the Telford/Shropshire area who could do a ISF calibration on this set for me?

Good skills I was thinking of posting somethnig similar.

I'll kick off - geometry settings can not be rasfered between sets so your sets geometry settings will be very different to mine. Colour settings are less variable but they still have some set individuality!

[grunnsat]

This company is in Shropshire and does ISF calibrations:

http://www.homecinemaengineering.com/

Keep in mind that calibrating should be done after your set has been in operation for at least 200 hours!

You can get in the service menu with the following sequence on the remote (with the TV in standby mode):
"Info", "Menu", "Mute", "Power"

Seems it doesn't always work at once, so keep trying!

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by grunnsat

This company is in Shropshire and does ISF calibrations:

http://www.homecinemaengineering.com/

Keep in mind that calibrating should be done after your set has been in operation for at least 200 hours!

You can get in the service menu with the following sequence on the remote (with the TV in standby mode):
"Info", "Menu", "Mute", "Power"

Seems it doesn't always work at once, so keep trying!

If it doeens't 'power' on when you dot eh sequence then you need to power it on then off then restart the "Info", "Menu", "Mute", "Power" sequence!

[chris1210]

Cant get into the service menu at all..... is it just me?? Could the 419 be different to the 409?

[NYPD]

It did not work for my but after leaving it on standby over night it worked in morning but not messing with it till know what to change. try leaving it on standby a for couple hours.

Hi,

I have found this in the "official" Samsung thread on the AVS Forum, the settings are for the US Samsung HD CRTs, but there should be some similarities with the Ws-32Z409 or 419:

Well, if you don't know already, to get into the service menu: with the set turned off, on the remote press MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER. That'll take you to the service menu. The menus you should be concerned with are DEFLECTION, VIDEO ADJUST 1 and VIDEO ADJUST 2.

Deflection handles geometry. To minimize overscan, you want to focus on the first four settings: V-AMP and H-AMP control how tall and wide the screen is (stretching, literally), V-SHIFT and H-SHIFT control the centering of the screen, vertically and horizontally. It works best to shrink the screen down quite a bit, on both planes, so that you have black borders all the way around. Then use V and H-SHIFT to center the screen. Once you're centered, use V and H-AMP to get your picture back to full screen. Be sure to go a few clicks over. Some feeds aren't quite as "big" resolution-wise as others. Make sure you test your settings with HD channels, standard channels, and any inputs you have like DVD, video games, etc. My settings are:

V-AMP: 26
V-SHIFT: 24
H-AMP: 20
H-SHIFT: 24

Once you have overscan eliminated, the other entries on this menu you might want to tweak are H-PAR, UP-COR, LOW-COR, H-TRA, BOW and ANGLE. Don't bother with the rest. I haven't seen them make any difference. I can't really explain to you what each of these does specifically, because honestly, I don't know. Just make sure to WRITE DOWN YOUR DEFAULT VALUES before messing with these, or anything. Set aside a couple of hours for tweaking and I'm sure you'll get good results. A copy of DVE and Avia running a geometry test pattern in the background helps. Just so you know, when in the service menu, your TV will still display the picture of whatever's connected to your selected input in the background, which definitely helps.

Video Adjust 1 deals with a few important settings. Only modify CTI_LEVEL, COL_AXIS, LTI_LEVEL and MELODY VOLUME in here. I haven't touched anything else. If you want to get rid of the annoying chimes that play when you turn your TV on or off, changed MELODY VOLUME all the way down to 0. COL_AXIS handles "red push". A setting of 1 (not 0 for some reason) turns it off. This is definitely recommended. CTI_LEVEL and LTI_LEVEL handle enhancement of chrominance and luminance; I turned them both down to 0 for a more natural picture.

Video Adjust 2 deals with the other very important stuff. Only modify GAMMA, DPIC_LEVEL, DC-TRANS, VM_LEVEL and SHP_CD. GAMMA, DPIC and DC-TRANS are all somewhat similar. Lower them. Turning them higher will make the picture darker and eliminate shadow detail. I recommended setting all three to zero and then using the basic "brightness" control in the regular menu to control everything else. SHP should also be set to 0 to prevent more artificial sharpening of bright colors. And of course, we come to VSM. Set VM_LEVEL to 0 to do away with the evil velocity scan modulation. You can even set it to 1, but I don't recommend any artificial effects.

When you're done tweaking, just hit power. When you turn your set back on, your settings will be reset, so be sure to take the TV off Dynamic picture mode and set it to custom or even movie. I suggest calibrating with DVE or Avia to get the best picture. Remember, though, ALWAYS record your original settings as there's no way to get them back. And a lot of this is trial and error. You'll probably be turning your TV on and off quite a few times to get to a picture you like best!

A properly calibrated set will probably look much different than factory settings. Let your eyes get used to it and they'll thank you. It will be more like looking through a window than watching TV.

Ok the settings concerning overscan are easy to find in the Deflection section of the service menu. H-Amp is called H EW.

But lets find the equivalents of the other settings, such as COL_AXIS (red push), CTI_LEVEL, LTI_LEVEL (chrominance and luminance enhancement)
[Video Adjust 1] and DPIC_LEVEL, DC-TRANS (these together with "Gamma" eliminate shadow detail), VM_LEVEL (velocity scan modulation) and SHP_CD (artificial sharpening of bright colors)


Service Manual for the WS-32Z308P
http://www.mytempdir.com/718052

With the [Menu]-button you can leave a submenu and get to the top menu of the service mode. You can exit the service menu by pressing the [Standby]-button on the remote (the changes you have made are automatically saved by leaving the service menu).

WS-32Z409 Service Menu:

Deflection
480p/576p
720p/1080i
4:3 Offset--Vixlim
Video Adjust 1
Video Adjust 2
Video Adjust 3
Video Adjust 4
Video Adjust 5
Video Adjust 6
Video Adjust 7
Video Adjust 8
Option (55 EA 09)
YC Delay
EEPROM
Bus Stop
Checksum 0000
Reset

Settings from stooahee, settings put in (...) are the default values

Deflection

V Amp 42 (40)
V Shift 26 (27)
H EW 38 (39)
H Shift 38 (42)
V Linearity 6 (6)
Upper Lin 0 (0)
Lower Lin 1 (1)
V Sc 3 (3)
H Parabola 36 (40)
Upper Corner 36 (36)
Lower Corner 36 (37)
H Trapezium 27 (19)
Bow 33 (34)
Angle 28 (33)
V Position 32 (32)
UP UCG 0 (0)
LO UCG 0 (0)
UP UCP 0 (0)
LO UCP 0 (0)

Video Adjust 1

R Cutoff 35 (24)
G Cutoff 32 (20)
B Cutoff 37 (27)
R Drive 47 (44)
G Drive 38 (35)
B Drive 31 (28)
Sub Bright 25 (32)
Sub Contrast 8 (8)
Bright-VP 140 (140)
Contrast-VP 30 (30)
SAT-VP 11 (11)
TINT-VP 10 (10)
SC_RGB_BRTADJ 128 (128)
SC_RGB_CONADJ 45 (45)
SC_RGB_USATADJ 52 (52)
SC_RGB_VSATADJ 52 (52)
RGB24_BRTADJ 16 (16)
RGB24_CONADJ 28 (28)
RGB24_USATADJ 30 (30)
RGB24_VSATADJ 30 (30)
RGB24_BR_HD 16 (16)
RGB24_CO_HD 28 (28)
RGB24_USA_HD 30 (30)
RGB24_VSA_HS 30 (30)
PORT4_STR 1 (1)

untouched
Video Adjust 2 (PAL)

ABL Mode 3
Gamma 0
ABL TH 3
AKB Time 15
S ABL 3
P ABL 7
VSU 0
LNA EXE 3
H Comp 3
V Comp 5
Pin Comp 3
AFC Comp 0
Syc Phase 0
Syc Phase480p 1
Syc Phase 576p 0
Syc Phase 720p 1
Syc Phase1080i 0

untouched
Video Adjust 3 (PAL)

TNR Enable 1
TNR Chroma 11
TNR Luma 11
LTI Enable 1
LTI Gain 15
LTI Gain x2 1
LTI Coring 2
Lmix gain 3
Lmix offset 13
Pk Center Freq 3
Peaking Coring 2
CTI BW 1
CTI LP 1
CTI Gain 5
CTI Coring 2
V Peaking 3
V PK core gain 0
V PK high gain 0
V PK core high 0
IF Comp filter 4
DHYAPRESC 2
DHCAPRESC 2
Neg Peaking 11
DCE Gain 45
CORBP 0

Video Adjust 4

SVM RW 0 (2)
SVM Delay 0
SVM Coring 0 (2)
SVM Gain 40 (45)
SVM C_Gain 0
OSD Contrast 27 (30)
OSD Bright 120 (127)
TTX Contrast 17
TTX Bright 120
Melody Volume 10
VCR Mode Cnt 30
SLL THD 3 (2)
SLLTHDV 3
THRSEL 0
LPCDEL 0
Pilot High 13
Pilot Low 7
AM_Prescale 22
VCTP_FECA 2

untouched
Video Adjust 5

HORWIDTHP_H 5
HORWIDTHP_L 50
VERIWDTHP_H 1
VERIWDTHP_L 26
HORPOSP_H 1
HORPOSP_L 65
VERPOSP_H 0
VERPOSP_L 29
NAPPLIP_H 2
NAPPLIP_L 94
NALPFIP_H 0
NALPFIP_L 18
HSCPOSC_H 8
HSCPOSC_L 70
VSCPOSC_H 31
VSCPOSC_L 100
HORWIDTH_M_H 5
HORWIDTH_M_L 50
VERWIDTH_M_H 1
VERWIDTH_M_L 39
HORPOS_M_H 1
HORPOS_M_L 60
VERPOS_M_H 0
VERPOS_M_L 23
VSCPRESC_H 0
VSCPRESC_L 0
SD_BRTADJ 128
SD_CONADJ 32
SD_USATADJ 32
SD_VSATADJ 32

Video Adjust 6 is not accessible

untouched
Video Adjust 7

R_Drive_Warm2 8
B_Drive_Warm- 9
R_CutOff_Warm2 6
R_CutOff_Warm2- 11
R_Drive_Warm1 4
B_Drive_Warm1- 3
R_CutOff_Warm1 4
B_CutOff_Warm1- 3
R_Drive_Normal 0
B_Drive_Normal 0
R_CutOff_Normal 0
B_CutOff_Normal 0
R_Drive_Cool1- 5
B_Drive_Cool1 4
R_CutOff_Cool1 0
B_CutOff_Cool1 6
R_Drive_Cool2- 2
B_Drive_Cool2 6
R_CutOff_Cool2 0
B_CutOff_Cool2 9

Video Adjust 8

LTI_gain_NTSC 15
Peak_f0_NTSC 3
Peak_cor_NTSC 2
CTI_gain_NTSC 5
Lmix gain_NTSC 3
Lmix offset_NT 13
LTI_gain_AV 15
Peak_f0_AV 3
Peak_cor_AV 2
CTI_gain_AV 5
Lmix gain_AV 3
Lmix offset_AV 13
LTI_gain_SD 0 (15)
Peak_f0_SD 0
Peak_cor_SD 3 (2)
CTI_gain_SD 1
Lmix gain_SD 3
Lmix offset_SD 13
LTI_gain_HD 15
Peak_f0_HD 3
Peak_cor_HD 2
CTI_gain_HD 5
Lmix gain_HD 3
Lmix offset_HD 13

Option

1. System CW
2. CRT Wide
3. Sound SRS TSXT
4. Auto FM On
5. High DEV On
6. LNA Off
7. X-Ray On
8. TTX On
9. Txt Group OSD Land
10. Pip Off
11. Digital NR On
12. Carrier Mute Off
13. OSD Language English
14. Search LNA Off
15. HDMI On
16. Blue Screen On
17. Shop Mode Off
18. Speaker Direct

CRTfreak

[Neil Davidson]

Gents,

Just a note that especially with CRT screens copying service menu settings from someone else may quite easily supply you with worse geometry and grayscale problems than you had before.

The performance of every tube is different and I would guess that on this particular model fixed magnets are probably used to sort the major issues before the factory service menu adjustment takes place.

If you don't feel confident to do this yourself - or as is more likely, you don't have the correct to grayscale the display a calibration might be the way to go. Home Cinema Engineering as mentioned above is run by Piers Clerk and one of only a handful if ISF certified calibrators in the UK. Be assured that ISF calibration will always result in the best performance the display is capable of.

HTH,

Neil

[grunnsat]

Keep in mind that your set must at least have been running for 200 hours before a ISF calibration should be performed.

No question, that would be truely the best option. But perhaps we can help each other a bit by finding the equivalents of the following settings from the WS-32Z308P Service Menu to improve the picture quality without calling in a professional calibrator.

WS-32Z308:

[Video Adjust 1]

COL_AXIS (red push)
CTI_LEVEL, LTI_LEVEL (chrominance and luminance enhancement)

[Video Adjust 2]

DPIC_LEVEL, DC-TRANS (these together with "Gamma" eliminate shadow detail)
VM_LEVEL (velocity scan modulation)
SHP_CD (artificial sharpening of bright colors)


WS-32Z409
In the Video Adjust 3 (PAL) and Video Adjust 8 ther are a few LTI and CTI settings, what would be the setting for the level ?

Video Adjust 3
LTI Enable
LTI Gain
LTI Gain x2
LTI Coring

CTI BW
CTI LP
CTI Gain
CTI Coring

Video Adjust 4

(could this be velocity scan modulation?)

SVM RW
SVM Delay
SVM Coring
SVM Gain
SVM C_Gain


Video Adjust 8
LTI_gain_NTSC
CTI_gain_NTSC
LTI_gain_AV
CTI_gain_AV
LTI_gain_SD
CTI_gain_SD
LTI_gain_HD
CTI_gain_HD


Unfortunately there is no sign of COL_AXIS, DPIC_LEVEL, DC-TRANS and SHP_CD.

[stooshee]

hi guys, I will second that, that it was a brilliant idea to start up this forum for people who have this TV. I have had a heck of a fight trying to be positive with some of the people on the other forum.
Nstandley...I had no joy what so ever getting my SKY remote or a universal remote working with this set! I am getting SKY HD ordered very shortly and I pray that the remote will work with this set.

NYPD: I see on the other forum you are having probs with XBOX PQ, text looking ugly etc. What are your settings (basic ones I mean) contrast, brightness etc. I had horrible text to start off with, but by reducing sharpness to next to nothing (0-5) it looked so much better!
I also reduced the DCE Gain on "video adjust 3" all the way down to 0. I must admit though that I dont know what it is...oops...but it did make the PQ much better.
Im glad, you started this forum, and I hope everyone else with this set will come in and give thir words of wisdom. SKY HD is the next big step for me, so really looking forward to hearing more about this!

Can I just say THANK YOU!!! to you guys for this thread

I won't fiddle with mine just yet as I have an engineer coming out Friday to attend to the buzzing problem. Can't see him/her fixing it to be honest. Probably advise a 'swap out', which is cool.

Thanks again guys, keep it up

~Phil.

I hope we have the same focus adjustment possibilities on the WS-32Z409/419 like the WS-32Z308

Where did they hide the test patterns on the WS-32Z409/419 ?

CRTfreak

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by CRTfreak

I hope we have the same focus adjustment possibilities on the WS-32Z409/419 like the WS-32Z308


Where did they hide the test patterns on the WS-32Z409/419 ?


CRTfreak

I was wondering about that I've been sending mine through the 360 or my chipped xbox.

Now the question is on the 419 there's a 'service' screw at the back I wonder what that does??? I may try and mess with it at some point but my time is limited.

I'd also like to know what the 'SD' text that comes up in the info panel of Freeview implies! as it should meen Stadard Def does this mean that the decoder in this set can handle HD freeview???

Maybe, do you think that some day, there will be enough bandwidth for the HD Freeview data stream?

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by CRTfreak

Maybe, do you think that some day, there will be enough bandwidth for the HD Freeview data stream?

Indeed this was the other issue - unless the TV can decode H264 - apparenlty the BBC had the HD test channel running over freeview the other night (so I've been told).

On a different note I've noticed that my Humax PVR seems to have some kind of latency on the signal (via SCART AV in EXT2 at the mo) it makes faces inparticular seem to smear it's hard to describe but it doesn't happen on the inbuilt DVB tuner, I'm wondering if it's the Humax or some setting an the AV feed.

Not sure, perhaps the Humax is getting old. Does it support RGB and have you enabled it in the video settings ?
The Samsung only supports RGB at EXT1.

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by CRTfreak

Not sure, perhaps the Humax is getting old. Does it support RGB and have you enabled it in the video settings ?
The Samsung only supports RGB at EXT1.

The Hummy is pretty new a 9200t loverly piece of kit totally transformed the way I watch TV! I never noticed this smearing when I got the new TV the old TV was a 21inch 4:3 Thompson running in 16:9 so I probably had the equivelent picture size of 18inch wide screen so the PQ is pretty good (exceptional frankly) but when you expand things up to 30inch wide the artifacts become a little more obvious. Oh well I'll try through EXT1 and set the hummy to RGB and see if that helps!

Yeah its a very nice receiver, Twin Tuner with an integrated 160GB HDD

Did it notify you, that there is an update available for it ?

http://www.humaxdigital.com/uk/

Change the TV-SCART output setting from CVBS to RGB. You should get much better picture quality.

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by CRTfreak

Yeah its a very nice receiver, Twin Tuner with an integrated 160GB HDD

Did it notify you, that there is an update available for it ?

Yes all updated it automatically check for updates every morning at 4am!
Trust me I've tried it all I'm pretty savvy when it comes to these things - I found out what it is in the end it's the 'sharpness' setting by setting this to 0 I get no smearing it would seem that the sharpness video post processing has some lag hence the smearing effect.

[Quexex]

what I'd like to know is which setting in the service menu control the image processing as I'd rather have no post processing at all I'd also prefer not to have 100hz so if theres a setting to force 50/60hz via RGB or AV let me know.

[leamspaceman]

I know dave76 has posted elsewhere on this. I have my Samsung 950 DVD player hooked up via HDMI to the Samsung 419D and the audio is the wrong way around. The left and right channels are swapped.

There are three options here:

1. The HDMI cable I have is wired wrong
2. The DVD player is outputting incorrectly
3. The Samsung TV has the HDMI input wired wrong

The 3rd option doesn't bear thinking about

This is a little worrying really. Can I ask anyone here to check this with their DVD players, or in fact anything hooked up to the HDMI. I checked it with a music track that has obvious separation in left and right channels.

How can I test this without having to go buy another HDMI cable? I just need to be certain it isn't the TV that's at fault. Imagine if EVERY Samsung set has this problem and they are wiring the HDMI audio the wrong way around at the factory!!!

[Stephen Neal]

Originally Posted by Quexex

what I'd like to know is which setting in the service menu control the image processing as I'd rather have no post processing at all I'd also prefer not to have 100hz so if theres a setting to force 50/60hz via RGB or AV let me know.

I'd be VERY surprised if you could force the set into displaying an SD 576/50i source as 576/50i native - as this would require the line-scan rate to be halved.

576/100i (aka 100Hz) and 1080/50i (aka HD) are very similar in line-rate terms - and it is cheaper to convert 576/50i to 576/100i than 1080/50i - hence the conversion.

I'd be surprised if Samsung had engineered the line-scan and tube to cope with a 576/50i native signal - as it is half the line rate - and things like line-scan transformers are optimised for a narrow scan rate in TVs to keep the cost down. (Multiscan PC monitors have more sophisticated tubes and scan circuits - but they are smaller and dimmer!)

The only other option would be a 576/50i to 576/50p conversion - as again 576/50p is identical in line-rate to 576/100i. In the US most HD CRTs display 480/60i inputs as 480/60p for the same reason.

[leamspaceman]

Originally Posted by leamspaceman

I know dave76 has posted elsewhere on this. I have my Samsung 950 DVD player hooked up via HDMI to the Samsung 419D and the audio is the wrong way around. The left and right channels are swapped.

There are three options here:

1. The HDMI cable I have is wired wrong
2. The DVD player is outputting incorrectly
3. The Samsung TV has the HDMI input wired wrong

The 3rd option doesn't bear thinking about

This is a little worrying really. Can I ask anyone here to check this with their DVD players, or in fact anything hooked up to the HDMI. I checked it with a music track that has obvious separation in left and right channels.

How can I test this without having to go buy another HDMI cable? I just need to be certain it isn't the TV that's at fault. Imagine if EVERY Samsung set has this problem and they are wiring the HDMI audio the wrong way around at the factory!!!

Bad news I'm afraid...it IS the HDMI socket on the TV that's wired wrong. Just went back to Curry's and they tried two sets, with different HDMI DVD players and HDMI cables. In each case, the audio from the TV was the wrong way around.

This is TERRIBLE and a very bad day for Samsung I think.

I suggest calls 'en masse' to this number 0870 242 0303...Samsung UK 'customer care.'

[Stephen Neal]

Originally Posted by leamspaceman

Bad news I'm afraid...it IS the HDMI socket on the TV that's wired wrong. Just went back to Curry's and they tried two sets, with different HDMI DVD players and HDMI cables. In each case, the audio from the TV was the wrong way around.

This is TERRIBLE and a very bad day for Samsung I think.

Might not be the HDMI connection specifically - could be the post-HDMI processing in the TV that is swapping them.

Originally Posted by Quexex

On a different note I've noticed that my Humax PVR seems to have some kind of latency on the signal (via SCART AV in EXT2 at the mo) it makes faces inparticular seem to smear it's hard to describe but it doesn't happen on the inbuilt DVB tuner, I'm wondering if it's the Humax or some setting an the AV feed.

Maybe it was a typo, but you said, you have connected the Humax via the EXT2 connector of the Samsung.

You would benefit from the much better picture quality, if you used the EXT1 of the TV.

Is the RGB output of the Humax 9200T enabled ?

Originally Posted by leamspaceman

Bad news I'm afraid...it IS the HDMI socket on the TV that's wired wrong. Just went back to Curry's and they tried two sets, with different HDMI DVD players and HDMI cables. In each case, the audio from the TV was the wrong way around.

This is TERRIBLE and a very bad day for Samsung I think.

Yeah, it's a shame really. I don't want to play that down, but if you want to enjoy multichannel sound, you have to connect the DVD Player with the AV-Receiver anyway. So it's not the end of the world.

[leamspaceman]

Originally Posted by CRTfreak

Yeah, it's a shame really. I don't want to play that down, but if you want to enjoy multichannel sound, you have to connect the DVD Player with the AV-Receiver anyway. So it's not the end of the world.

I see your point, but to pay £500 for a TV that does a big-up on it's HDMI connection, I think it's pretty poor.

I do sometimes just like to play a DVD or CD through the TV speakers so it's an issue for me.

[Quexex]

Originally Posted by CRTfreak

Maybe it was a typo, but you said, you have connected the Humax via the EXT2 connector of the Samsung.

You would benefit from the much better picture quality, if you used the EXT1 of the TV.

Is the RGB output of the Humax 9200T enabled ?



Yeah, it's a shame really. I don't want to play that down, but if you want to enjoy multichannel sound, you have to connect the DVD Player with the AV-Receiver anyway. So it's not the end of the world.

it's no typo Ext1 is taken by my daisy chained scart switchers giving me 5 scarts and NO lose of quality (believe me I must have tried 10 scart swtichers before getting these) - Every single slot of those switchers is taken up with Consoles. So the Humax gets relegated to EXT2 running over AV! I'm not sure if the hummy supports S-vid (never looked) but this would probably be a better route considering my current setup.

Originally Posted by Quexex

it's no typo Ext1 is taken by my daisy chained scart switchers giving me 5 scarts and NO lose of quality (believe me I must have tried 10 scart swtichers before getting these) - Every single slot of those switchers is taken up with Consoles. So the Humax gets relegated to EXT2 running over AV! I'm not sure if the hummy supports S-vid (never looked) but this would probably be a better route considering my current setup.

Hehe, I know how hard it is to find good scart-switchers with true RGB. I have one myself. Perhaps you can give one of your consoles a little rest, to test the RGB output of the Humax.
Both Scart Outputs of the Humax 9200T support S-Video, but only the TV-Scart output gives out RGB. The default setting of both outputs, is CVBS though.

Originally Posted by leamspaceman

I do sometimes just like to play a DVD or CD through the TV speakers so it's an issue for me.

You could get an RCA adapter to double the Audio (L/R)-Input, and use your Audio (L/R)-Output of your DVD Player to get the sound to the TV.

By this way you get slightly worse audio quality (not sure if one can notice that with the TV speakers but a little better picture quality compared to Component), but have your Component input (+ the audio) free for other devices.