[krichter1]

Manni/Jon,

Just took my first crack at this and my gamma's too low. Can you please review and let me know where I went wrong or is it just a matter of touching up contrast/brightness after calibration?

Thanks!
Kevin

Official JVC RS-50 Owner's Thread - Page 66 - AVS Forum

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Manni/Jon,

Just took my first crack at this and my gamma's too low. Can you please review and let me know where I went wrong or is it just a matter of touching up contrast/brightness after calibration?

Thanks!
Kevin

Official JVC RS-50 Owner's Thread - Page 66 - AVS Forum

Hi Kevin,

First of all it looks like a pretty good first attempt, so congratulations!

Regarding gamma, in my experience it is more or less normal to see such a side effect to the curve after doing the greyscale. This is why you need to correct it with the gamma controls, in theory playing mainly with the white curve. Unfortunately, the gamma controls are misbehaving, so they affect the greyscale when you move white at a control point. JVC are aware of this and have promised a fix, but it was not implemented in the last firmware (1.2).

I would suggest the following:
- Make sure you use HDMI standard on both the source and projector, which mean your brightness/contrast settings should be close to 0. This may lower the effect of the gamma dip after greyscale calibration.
- Try to calibrate your gains at 100IRE instead of 80IRE. This will allow you to get white perfect at D65, and should improve your gamut (which looks pretty good, although the LT is a very imperfect tool, so it's impossible to know for sure). The other effect is that as you can't correct gamma at 100%, getting your RGB balance correct at 100IRE using the gains is the only way to get it right.
- Once this is done, remeasure, and if necessary try to tweak the gamma controls at the end of your curve. I suggest you use a preset of 2.3 as a starting point (if you are in a dedicated room with no ambiant light). Make sure you select the target gamma and the custom gamma preset before re-doing the greyscale calibration.
- As a general rule, make sure you never use positive offsets, only dial back one or two colors, never push one up or it will hurt your black levels / on/off contrast.

Let us know if that helps!

[krichter1]

Awesome thanks Manni!! (I am using HDMI standard per your orig. recommendation; also bat cave theater)

Do you think my colors from CIE are good enough on the Red/Green line being a bit on the inside of the ref line?

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Awesome thanks Manni!! (I am using HDMI standard per your orig. recommendation)

Do you think my colors from CIE are good enough on the Red/Green line being a bit on the inside of the ref line?

Your gamut looks fine (I suspect you're using the standard preset), and as you are using an LT which can be very imprecise, I wouldn't touch it as you are likely to do more damage than to improve things. The standard colour profile can be a bit undersaturated, which is not something you can correct anyway.

Unless luminance is off, I would keep it as it is, and as I said calibrating your gains at 100IRE may slightly improve it (it's a natural side effect on getting white at d65 correct).

You can also try to move the color control up a few notches to see if you get better results. Don't try using the CMS, it won't help!

Have a look at the recommended settings/calibration tips in the first few posts of this thread for more details...

I have slightly edited my last post, so you may want to re-read it...

[krichter1]

Thanks again Manni! I did push up my Offsets to get both 30% & 80% to match (I think Red was +5, Green + 7 & Blue +14). So maybe that's one of the reason it dips after 70%?

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Thanks again Manni! I did push up my Offsets to get both 30% & 80% (I think Red was +5, Green + 7 & Blue +14). So maybe that's one of the reason it dips after 70%?

It's unlikely to be the reason for the gamma curve dip in the high end (which is more likely to be due to a contrast setting which is too high).

However, this would have badly hurt your black levels, so I'm glad I mentionned it!

You can't move the gains up (only down), so the trick is to look at the color that is deficient (usually red for the gains) and only move down the other two. You are trying to make as few adjustments as possible, so you should never have more than two colors adjusted.

Same thing for the offsets, look at the curve, and try to get the colors above (usually red and either green or blue) down to the level of the deficient one. Again, you should only correct one or two colors, not three, or it means you are making more changes than necessary.

Think of it as it you were trying to get a wonky three-legs stool level with the floor, but you want to keep as much of the initial height as possible. If you are shortening the three legs, it means you are shaving more height than absolutely necessary (when working on the gains, you are affecting peak brightness, which is why you don't want to cut more than necessary or you're wasting some precious calibrated lumens). You should be able to cut only one leg, possibly two to get it level if you make the right decisions.

[KelvinS1965]

Just to make a point that while it generally isn't recommended to raise the offsets on JVCs, if the brightness is then adjusted to give the darkest black level possible, this will be cancelled out. Whether this is worth doing though is a moot point, so I tend to only reduce my offsets below 0 or simply just leave them at 0 and do the adjustment externally (in finer steps too ).

[krichter1]

Originally Posted by Manni01

It's unlikely to be the reason for the gamma curve dip in the high end (which is more likely to be due to a contrast setting which is too high).

However, this would have badly hurt your black levels, so I'm glad I mentionned it!

You can't move the gains up (only down), so the trick is to look at the color that is deficient (usually red for the gains) and only move down the other two. You are trying to make as few adjustments as possible, so you should never have more than two colors adjusted.

Same thing for the offsets, look at the curve, and try to get the colors above (usually red and either green or blue) down to the level of the deficient one. Again, you should only correct one or two colors, not three, or it means you are making more changes than necessary.

Think of it as it you were trying to get a wonky three-legs stool level with the floor, but you want to keep as much of the initial height as possible. If you are shortening the three legs, it means you are shaving more height than absolutely necessary (when working on the gains, you are affecting peak brightness, which is why you don't want to cut more than necessary or you're wasting some precious calibrated lumens). You should be able to cut only one leg, possibly two to get it level if you make the right decisions.

I first did what Kal's guide said to ensure proper blacks prios to starting the cal. I think both contrast & brightness were set at +1 so it was definitely a shock to find such a low gamma after being excited about getting 9 out of 10 within 3dE and having such a good looking gamut on CIE. I was so damn proud of myself after seeing/reading what you guys have had to go through I just couldn't wait to throw on The Dark Knight during the IMAX scene! Imagine my bloody BUZZ KILL when the picture first came on and I could tell it definitely did not look right!

Hopefully I can get this all fixed up this weekend!

Again . . . a million thanks!

[JonStatt]

I always move offsets and gains downwards only. Typically only 2 gains need to move, and 2 offsets. In my case the green/blue gain comes down to match the lower red. And for the offsets, the red and green needed adjustment to match to the blue. So if you are finding you are adjusting all 3 gains or offsets, something may be wrong in what you are doing.

[krichter1]

Appreciate the feedback Jon.

Cheers!

[krichter1]

Originally Posted by KelvinS1965

Just to make a point that while it generally isn't recommended to raise the offsets on JVCs, if the brightness is then adjusted to give the darkest black level possible, this will be cancelled out. Whether this is worth doing though is a moot point, so I tend to only reduce my offsets below 0 or simply just leave them at 0 and do the adjustment externally (in finer steps too ).

So Kelvin are you saying that even though I was able to get a great looking grayscale (10-50%), by raising offsets, readjusting brightness/contrast to their appropriate levels would once again throw off the lower IRE's because those user menu settings are not linear?

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

So Kelvin are you saying that even though I was able to get a great looking grayscale (10-50%), by raising offsets, readjusting brightness/contrast to their appropriate levels would once again throw off the lower IRE's because those user menu settings are not linear?

No, I think Kelvin was saying that as an alternative to redo the offsets making sure you used only negative ones as I suggested, you could keep your positive offsets and adjust brightness to get your black levels back (although I have not tried this, it sounds like a valid alternative).

The only drawback I can see to this approach is that you then have to adjust brightness in every preset you decide to use your custom greyscale, so that's one more parameter to track/remember to change. I like to keep it simple, and usually HDMI standard / negative offsets mean that you can select your greyscale in any preset without having to adjust anything else.

[krichter1]

Good point Manni. I'll just redo everything this weekend as you suggested.

[KelvinS1965]

Yes, Manni had it right on all counts: not worth the bother of having different brightness settings for each calibration, but just pointing out that having a positive RGB offset doesn't necessarily mean you have a raised black level, if the brightness is adjusted correctly. I find that the JVC brightness is too coarse and it either clips the 17 IRE bar or slightly raises the black level by making 16 visible, hence why I prefer using an external device (Video EQ then the Mini3D now). Kind of losing interest in the new JVCs now as there seem to be more issues than I'd like, plus I'm getting back into cars again after a 12 year break, so I guess I'm outahere. Look out for me on the RS Owners forum.

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by KelvinS1965

Yes, Manni had it right on all counts: not worth the bother of having different brightness settings for each calibration, but just pointing out that having a positive RGB offset doesn't necessarily mean you have a raised black level, if the brightness is adjusted correctly. I find that the JVC brightness is too coarse and it either clips the 17 IRE bar or slightly raises the black level by making 16 visible, hence why I prefer using an external device (Video EQ then the Mini3D now). Kind of losing interest in the new JVCs now as there seem to be more issues than I'd like, plus I'm getting back into cars again after a 12 year break, so I guess I'm outahere. Look out for me on the RS Owners forum.

You are right about the general brightness control being a bit too coarse, but there is a dark level adjustment on the rs50-60 which allows you to (at least partially) make up for that. When you set it up properly, you can leave the brightness control at 0 and not clip anything...

By the way, there are indeed a few issues with the new JVCs (gamma controls, saturation tracking when using the CMS), but they have been aknowledged by JVC so hopefully a new firmware will fix them soon.

Also, they do not prevent you from getting a fantastic picture, both in 2D and 3D, if you calibrate it properly... But as you're not a big 3D fan, I understand where you're coming from.

It would be a shame to lose you, so I really hope you'll stick around

[krichter1]

Manni,

What's your take on all the AVS talk about the loss of lumens Jon first identified? I know you've been doing this a long time and I have come to trust/value your opinion. Is it something we should be worried about? Both Jason and I are at just over 200 hours and getting about/only 340 lumens using Standard CP @ D65. I'm only at 110" diag on an AT Seymour (17' throw) and even my old Sharp 20K seemed to put out close to this mark. I can't even get close to 12 ftL in my bat cave (although I'll say I have never seen better on/off in my life... brilliant pitch black for that one to two seconds!!)

Also do you think it would be that much better for me to consider a Chroma 5 Pro/Chromapure setup over the 1LT/HCFR gear since I'm a novice at this?

Cheers!

Kevin

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Manni,

What's your take on all the AVS talk about the loss of lumens Jon first identified? I know you've been doing this a long time and I have come to trust/value your opinion. Is it something we should be worried about? Both Jason and I are at just over 200 hours and getting about/only 340 lumens using Standard CP @ D65. I'm only at 110" diag on an AT Seymour (17' throw) and even my old Sharp 20K seemed to put out close to this mark. I can't even get close to 12 ftL in my bat cave (although I'll say I have never seen better on/off in my life... brilliant pitch black for that one to two seconds!!)

Also do you think it would be that much better for me to consider a Chroma 5 Pro/Chromapure setup over the 1LT/HCFR gear since I'm a novice at this?

Cheers!

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Although we all have different experiences depending on lamp/unit variations, throw distance, room characteristics, if I speak for myself I can only say that in my setup, the rs50 gives me enough light to get a great picture, both in 2D and 3D. Although I do experience the 40% drop from brightest mode to THX, after 200 hours my calibrated rs50 is brighter than my rs20 at the same "age", in exactly the same setup.

My new lamp has only lost about 4-7% in 200 hours, and the calibrated picture is absolutely beautiful, both in 2D and 3D.

I think the rs50/rs60 are definitely designed to be used in dedicated rooms, and in my bat cave I always found that 12 fL was almost too bright, so I'm still using an iris setting of -9.

Apart from the gamma controls/CMS bugs which I understand should be fixed soon, the rs50 is a great projector and I'm very happy with it.

Regarding the HCFR/LT combo, it is a great combination to learn and see if you get the calibration bug. That's how I learnt.

However, as I said earlier, the LT is a very imperfect meter, mine was consideraby off after 6 only months. I bought an i1pro to be able to do gamut work reliably, and have a reference to train the LT for greyscale/gamut. This is a great combo, but the LT is still a bit unreliable, so I am planning to get a Chroma5 to deal better with very low light and get better repeatablity.

Depending on how much your LT is off (it could also be reasonably accurate to start with), you may gain a lot or nothing (from an accuracy point of view) by moving up.

My advice is to look at a greyscale ramp (you'll find some in the AVS HD disc which you probably already have). If, after a good greyscale calibration with the LT (ie a calibration which the LT "thinks" is very close to D65), you see some some greenish, blueish or reddish tint in the greyscale ramp, it probably means that your LT is off and that correcting it with one of the "pro" solutions is likely to improve your calibration.

If it just looks grey everywhere, my advice is to wait for now, until you get more experience with your "beginner pack" (you seem to be doing pretty well!) and more importantly until the CMS and gamma controls are fixed.

By then, you will know better what you need, and you can make a more informed decision about which solution will be better for you. If it's just about the greyscale, and if your meter seems to return good results (it is likely to drift with time anyway), I wouldn't upgrade right now unless you are really after getting the last degree of accuracy or plan to do professional calibrations (or calibrate for friends who have a working CMS / gamma controls).

Just my .2 cents!

[edit] forgot to say that apart from the accuracy issue with the LT (which a "pro" or "enhanced" version may improve), there is an issue of repeatability with the LT: even if you leave the projector on for an hour before doing any calibration, I never managed to get the same readings from the LT (on its own, ie untrained) without changing anything (meter not moved, settings identical) when taking two sets of measures say one day apart. With a better meter like an i1pro, I get consistant and repeatable results even weeks apart (for example, even if greyscale drifts due to the lamp aging, the gamut doesn't move from one session to the next). This is another reason to suggest you wait, as you may find that you need to upgrade your hardware to get substantially better results. What's the point of getting everything under 3 dEs if the next day, with the same meter, it's off? Again, this is only valid if your LT allows you to get a decent greyscale as it is. It may be so off that "correcting" it could improve your results substantially.

[edit2] I missed the fact that you were considering a chroma5 as well. From what I know, the chroma5 is a more sensitive (especially in low light), faster meter, and it doesn't require dark readings which is a huge progress compared to the i1pro. The downside it that is is not a spectroradiometer like the i1pro but a tristimulus colorimeter using filters like the LT, so it would have to be corrected regularly (or trained to a spectro like the i1pro) as it is likely to drift. However, given the fact that with the rs50 on its own you can't do much work on the gamut or on gamma given the bugs in the firmware, I would definitely not spend the money at this stage unless you also plan to get an external processor (like a Lumagen Mini 3D). I'm hoping to get a chroma5 soon, so I'll report on any gain of accuracy I get from it compared to the trained LT.

[edit3] re brightness, did you try to move the rs50 to the shortest throw to see if you get better results? If you do, you may then have to find the best compromise between on/off and brightness by playing with your PJ location. I'm at mid-to-short throw, and I still get around 50 000:1 on/off wih the iris at -9 (around 80 000:1 with the iris at -15).

[krichter1]

Great post and perspective Manni!

As always... Very much appreciated good sir!!

Man... did you get lucky with that lamp!!

Kevin

(can't wait till this weekend to get another crack at fixing this!)

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Great post and perspective Manni!

As always... Very much appreciated good sir!!

Man... did you get lucky with that lamp!!

Kevin

(can't wait till this weekend to get another crack at fixing this!)

You're welcome!

I don't think I am lucky with the lamp, Jonstatt has experienced exactly the same (more brightness that past model, very little drop in brightness in the first few hundred hours). My theory (for the initial brightness, not for the small drop) is that it is due to the throw distance / screen size we use, which is why I suggested you try to move your PJ closer to the screen (or zoom your scren size down) as an experiment to see if you get better results.

[Manni01]

Kevin, I just had an idea regarding your gamma curve.

Once you try to use a higher gamma (like 2.3 or even 2.4) as a starting point in the custom gamma preset before redoing your greyscale, if your curve still falls towards the end after having worked on the greyscale, try to adjust the light settings in the dark/light adjustments.

These very nifty controls (only present on the rs50-60) allow you to adjust the lower end (dark) or higher end (light) of the gamma curve.

So if you are crushing blacks or if gamma is too high at the beginning of the curve, you can play with the dark adjustment, and remeasure.

In your case, you may want to play with the light adjustment to correct the falling gamma curve, if the rest of your curve is closer to your gamma target but if it keeps falling post 70 IRE.

Let us know if that helps!

[krichter1]

Hi Manni,

I just now saw this and will give that a try tomorrow.

I quit for the day as I now begin to see why this is not for everyone! A very tedious process when you can't raise your offsets and get a good grayscale (bloody hell!). I can't believe how coarse the settings are especially at the higher IRE's. Move one frickin' thing and you have to go back to 30% and almost start again.

I can't get anywhere near my first run where everything was below 3dE, SO . . . here's a question for you. I put back my last calibration with the offset push and then moved up to 2.3 gamma and re-calibrated just the brightness/contrast/color/tint/darkness/lightness settings using the AVS709 disc (first time using this to set the user control settings... top shelf! brilliant!! . . . I love the pulsating flashes they incorporated into the test... way better that DVE or S&M discs!). I notice though with Standard HDMI black is being clipped to where no matter high high the controls go up I can never see the 17 black bar pulsating.

Any whooo . . . Now my question... Now that I re-cal'd my old grayscale as above is it so bad that I think the picture looks absolutely fantastic yet still pushing my offsets past '0' to get below 3dE for 0-50%?? I watched Batman Dark Knight again for the usual reference scenes (oh and I've gone up to -4 iris), and it looked, well... YUMMY!! I was in black hole / contrast / on/off Heaven!! And it now seems my ANSI has improved because the change in gamma just makes all the whites POP with the inky black background. WAIT . . . I know... I haven't got to my question yet... which is... Is it bad that I'm loving this atypical calibration with the offsets pushed?? Can I do any harm by leaving it this way long term?

Lastly Manni... is there a way to play with Gamma real time in HCFR? Is there a real time gamma screen like grayscale??

Thanks!
Kevin

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Hi Manni,

I just now saw this and will give that a try tomorrow.

I quit for the day as I now begin to see why this is not for everyone! A very tedious process when you can't raise your offsets and get a good grayscale (bloody hell!). I can't believe how coarse the settings are especially at the higher IRE's. Move one frickin' thing and you have to go back to 30% and almost start again.

I can't get anywhere near my first run where everything was below 3dE, SO . . . here's a question for you. I put back my last calibration with the offset push and then moved up to 2.3 gamma and re-calibrated just the brightness/contrast/color/tint/darkness/lightness settings using the AVS709 disc (first time using this to set the user control settings... top shelf! brilliant!! . . . I love the pulsating flashes they incorporated into the test... way better that DVE or S&M discs!). I notice though with Standard HDMI black is being clipped to where no matter high high the controls go up I can never see the 17 black bar pulsating.

Any whooo . . . Now my question... Now that I re-cal'd my old grayscale as above is it so bad that I think the picture looks absolutely fantastic yet still pushing my offsets past '0' to get below 3dE for 0-50%?? I watched Batman Dark Knight again for the usual reference scenes (oh and I've gone up to -4 iris), and it looked, well... YUMMY!! I was in black hole / contrast / on/off Heaven!! And it now seems my ANSI has improved because the change in gamma just makes all the whites POP with the inky black background. WAIT . . . I know... I haven't got to my question yet... which is... Is it bad that I'm loving this atypical calibration with the offsets pushed?? Can I do any harm by leaving it this way long term?

Lastly Manni... is there a way to play with Gamma real time in HCFR? Is there a real time gamma screen like grayscale??

Thanks!
Kevin

Hi Kelvin,

First when working on the greyscale you can ignore the dEs below 20 IRE as unless you are using the appropriate meter (or a combo) they are not significant. You should do it by eye to make sure the grey patterns have no obvious tint, or leave them as they are.

Second there is no way that I know of to play with gamma in real time with HCFR. You need Chromapure or Calman for this.

Third there is nothing wrong with what you've done, as Kelvin suggested as long as you've adjusted brightness after raising your offsets, you should have got your dark levels back.

Third the offsets should always be moved very carefully, or left as they are. I only need a few notches down for red and green to get an excellent greyscale. You just have to go slowly (as it takes a while to get the measurements after the change) and settle for the best compromise. It can take a bit of time, but with experience in 5mn you get an almost perfect greyscale. Greyscale is the fondation, if you want to get it really right, you need to adjust gamma (white and RGB). This can be lengthy as well, but you can't do it manually with the controls as they stand.

Finally, trust me, if you're happy with the results, drop the meter and watch movies! Calibrating is a mean to an end. You're not supposed to spend hours calibrating. It's only if you see something wrong that you need to get the tools out. In anycase, it's likely that your greyscale/gamma will move, so you'll soon have an opportunity to make another attempt, but wait until you feel that something is amiss.

In the meantime, enjoy your projector!

[krichter1]

Great advice as usual my friend, thanks!!

[krichter1]

Well as usual you were right Manni! Adjusting the offsets down only and starting with a 2.3 gamma made all the subtle differences I was hoping for! Please share your comments from the AVS post below if there's anything I should be doing better. Also with the gamma picture please let me know what my options are for dialing in even further with the lightness & darkness settings at the high/low edges (not sure how to play with them).

Oh and BTW Manni - Is there anything wrong with recalibraing user menu contrast/brightness/color, after the greyscale calibration? I found when using the excellent AVS709 patterns (under misc. at top of menu), that contrast = -5 ... brightness = +5 ... color = +6 was right on the money. Any concerns there??

Official JVC RS-50 Owner's Thread - Page 70 - AVS Forum

[SMabille]

Hi,

Just got my X7 this weekend. Was planning to get it professionally calibrated around 200-250h but in the mean time I got reddish skin tone in THX (and any mode beside 3D and no color temp) but white look white not reddish.
So I'm thinking at calibrating it myself in the mean time.

My questions:
- Any recommendation for calibration tool that wouldn't be over expensive?
- I was planning to use HCFR software.
- What is the 1-touch calibration for CalMan I read about and what version would be required?
- I got an Anthem 50V which include (Gennum VXP) gamma correction, should I use that one (at least until the X7 bugs are fixed)?

Thanks for any advise.

Stephane

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by SMabille

Hi,

Just got my X7 this weekend. Was planning to get it professionally calibrated around 200-250h but in the mean time I got reddish skin tone in THX (and any mode beside 3D and no color temp) but white look white not reddish.
So I'm thinking at calibrating it myself in the mean time.

My questions:
- Any recommendation for calibration tool that wouldn't be over expensive?
- I was planning to use HCFR software.
- What is the 1-touch calibration for CalMan I read about and what version would be required?
- I got an Anthem 50V which include (Gennum VXP) gamma correction, should I use that one (at least until the X7 bugs are fixed)?

Thanks for any advise.

Stephane

If you are buying a meter, I suggest buying a "pro" or "enhanced" version from Chromapure or Calman. Cheap meters are unreliable, and there is no way to know if how (in)accurate they are from the factory. HCFR is fine to start with, but the lack of easy way to adjust Y and the fact that the new version (2.2) allowing this is not widely available yet means you have to use an external spreadsheet or calculator to do any serious gamut work.

The Calman 1-touch calibration for the rs50-60 is not available yet. It should be available as an add-on to the commercial version, and possibly to other versions down the line (expert as a minimum I would guess), but until it is released there is no way to know. The equivalent add-on for the Radiance is available for $99, but I think that depending on the software version (DIY, expert, etc) you have access to more or less functions, so your best bet is to check with Spectracal.

I don't know anything about the Anthem 50V, but you can always try and see if you get better results than with the internal controls.

If you would like more info to get started in calibration, I suggest you have a look at the rs20 calibration thread (for the firmware 1.1) over at AVS, I listed a lot of useful ressources, guides etc. in the first post.

[Manni01]

Originally Posted by krichter1

Well as usual you were right Manni! Adjusting the offsets down only and starting with a 2.3 gamma made all the subtle differences I was hoping for! Please share your comments from the AVS post below if there's anything I should be doing better. Also with the gamma picture please let me know what my options are for dialing in even further with the lightness & darkness settings at the high/low edges (not sure how to play with them).

Oh and BTW Manni - Is there anything wrong with recalibraing user menu contrast/brightness/color, after the greyscale calibration? I found when using the excellent AVS709 patterns (under misc. at top of menu), that contrast = -5 ... brightness = +5 ... color = +6 was right on the money. Any concerns there??

Official JVC RS-50 Owner's Thread - Page 70 - AVS Forum

I'm afraid you'll have to play with the dark/light controls, as I don't use them.

Start with dark, take a series of measurement, move it down one notch, take a new series of measurements, see if it moves in the right direction, etc... Same for light.

Nothing wrong in adjusting brightness/contrast afterwards, but the settings you suggest mean that your HDMI input is probably set to enhanced and not standard (which isn't necessarily a bad thing).

Again, if you're happy with the results, store the meter and watch movies!

[krichter1]

Thanks but I did check everything and it's standard. So I assume everything looked okay to you on the results pages?

Appreciate all your help (as always)!

[SMabille]

Hi,

I plan to have my X7 calibrated when I reach 200h (a few weeks to go).

I notice that :
- There are ISF (and THX) calibrator software downloadable from JVC
- There are ISF on/off and night/day in the remote control code doc

But I can't find any access to use ISF (and switch day/night) neither on the standard remote or menu.

How are ISF setting applied? Are they "added" to the current mode (as it doesn't seems to be a picture mode (-from the remote code-))? In which case which mode do you use to calibrate?

Thanks,
Stephane

[mshort520]

Hello Gentlemen,
Would you mind taking a quick look at this calibration file and giving me your opinion? This is my 2nd pass at this projector so the pre cal numbers are from my first pass. I'm using a Hubble referenced against an I1 Pro. 118 hrs on the lamp which is set to normal, with the iris at -15. I'm using stage, 6500K and Custom 1 for Gamma. I'm using 100% stimulus and windows in Calman 4.21.
The picture looks great, the grey scale looks great. My question is that I initially have a serious dip in gamma at 90%, down to 1.7. To correct this I went into the service menu and pulled the gains on RGB way back at 90% stim. R -82, G -74, B -97. This brought the gamma very close. I then went into the regular menu and used the gamma controls to tweak it slightly using white only. For all RGB greyscale adjust ments I used the gains in the service menu and the offsets in the regular menu under color temp.
Does this seem like a proper proceedure to you? should I be concerned about pulling the gains back so far?
Also, Do you know what the G controls are for in the service menu?

Thank you for your advice,

Mike


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