[zav]

Hi all,
I have a Barco Data 701 with 07MS tubes and HD145 Lens for some years, some days ago i noticed a strange glow on the projected image. After looking inside the lens i noticed a crack on the tube and some drops of fluid (picture attached).

Do i need to replace all the tube or the 07ms can be disassembled to take out the broken glass?
I seems that only a small amount of liquid came out, do you think i can continue to use the projector safely?
I have an old Sony vph 2020 with sd130 tubes, is it possible to replace the broken 07MS with the SD130R?
When i took the picture i noticed some white strange marks inside the lens itself (picture attached), can this be cleaned?

Thanks in advance.
Marco

[Tom.W]

Do NOT use the projector ! You have a glycol leak and if your lucky the corrosive glycol did not contaminate any of your boards. The glycol is a coolant to prevent the tube from over heating. Use rubber gloves when handling and cleaning up the glycol as it can be absorbed through the skin.

You will need to pull the tube and and replace the front glass on the cooling chamber.

Not sure you can save the lens but if its just on the rear element clean off right away !

Bleeding CRT Projector Tubes

[Chris Frost]

Marco, Replacing the tube is going to be easier than replacing the glass. Those of us with spares stock probably have red tubes. Demand is highest for green and blue.

Send a private message to either Roland (B4Projection) or myself to take this further on a replacement tube.

If you want to go down the route of replaceing the glass then I have kits for that with everything you'll need - glass, sealant, red(pink) glycol, syringe, picture instructions etc.

Regards

[Tom.W]

Also bleed or replace the glycol from the Green and Blue tubes.

[zav]

Thanks for the prompt reply.
Can this replacement operations be done on the ceiling or should i bring down the beast?
Regarding the lens dirt, do you know of any information on the Net regarding Hd144/145 cleaning?
Regards,
Marco

[Tom.W]

Try this...

[Tom.W]

Also read this...

Guy Kuo

Dry air blown across the lens. If that isn't enough, William Phelps described his cleaning solution....

1 drop dishwashing detergent (not soap!)
(or Kodak Photoflo if you have it)
1/3 cup 99% Isopropyl alcohol
1 2/3 cup distilled water

It works very well indeed and does not harm the lens coatings. It's dirt cheap to make to boot. Cheap enough to use on your car windows. You won't believe what using an optical cleaner on a car window will achieve. Windex is residue city by comparison and should NOT be used on your projection lenses for fear of the ammonia dissolving the anti-reflection coating.

Don't get overzealous about cleaning. Every time you clean the lens, you will create some minor scratches. In other words, clean when cleaning does more good than harm.

The above solution can be misted on and wiped off with a soft lint-free cleaning cloth. Use each portion of the cloth only one pass. Start at the center and work outword. You will need to lightly buff until dry or else there will be visible residue.

Another cleaning product I very much like is Formula MC-1. I was turned onto this by Steve Smith. It leaves absolutely the cleanest lens surface I have ever seen. Use as a last step. Just a few drops do the job. The lens will appear to fog over as this dries. Buff the "fog" off and the lens will be cleaner than it ever has.

In either case, never never grind dirt back into the lens. Remove as much dust as possible with dry, compressed air. Very very lightly dust with a CLEAN soft brush. It is so easy to scratch the lens with a slightly soiled brush. Don't wipe a dirty lens while it is dry. Use a cleaning solution to loosen and lift the debris onto a clean soft lens cloth.

Be enthusiastic in throwing out multiple cleaning cloths. You're trying to preserve the lens, not the cloths.

__________________
Guy Kuo
Director - Imaging Science Foundation Research Lab
Video Test Design - Ovation Multimedia / Home of OpticONE Colorimeter, AVIA and Avia PRO

[zav]

Thanks Tom,
I'm going to give it a try, anyway worse it cannot get.
Regards,
Marco

Originally Posted by Tom.W

Also read this...

Guy Kuo

Dry air blown across the lens. If that isn't enough, William Phelps described his cleaning solution....

1 drop dishwashing detergent (not soap!)
(or Kodak Photoflo if you have it)
1/3 cup 99% Isopropyl alcohol
1 2/3 cup distilled water

It works very well indeed and does not harm the lens coatings. It's dirt cheap to make to boot. Cheap enough to use on your car windows. You won't believe what using an optical cleaner on a car window will achieve. Windex is residue city by comparison and should NOT be used on your projection lenses for fear of the ammonia dissolving the anti-reflection coating.

Don't get overzealous about cleaning. Every time you clean the lens, you will create some minor scratches. In other words, clean when cleaning does more good than harm.

The above solution can be misted on and wiped off with a soft lint-free cleaning cloth. Use each portion of the cloth only one pass. Start at the center and work outword. You will need to lightly buff until dry or else there will be visible residue.

Another cleaning product I very much like is Formula MC-1. I was turned onto this by Steve Smith. It leaves absolutely the cleanest lens surface I have ever seen. Use as a last step. Just a few drops do the job. The lens will appear to fog over as this dries. Buff the "fog" off and the lens will be cleaner than it ever has.

In either case, never never grind dirt back into the lens. Remove as much dust as possible with dry, compressed air. Very very lightly dust with a CLEAN soft brush. It is so easy to scratch the lens with a slightly soiled brush. Don't wipe a dirty lens while it is dry. Use a cleaning solution to loosen and lift the debris onto a clean soft lens cloth.

Be enthusiastic in throwing out multiple cleaning cloths. You're trying to preserve the lens, not the cloths.

__________________
Guy Kuo
Director - Imaging Science Foundation Research Lab
Video Test Design - Ovation Multimedia / Home of OpticONE Colorimeter, AVIA and Avia PRO

[Tom.W]

By the way Kodak Photoflo is the best IMO. Works great on film also !

[Roland @ B4]

The front and back elements are plastic be realy carefull they scratch very easily. That looks like a sort of crystal build up.

I've replied to your email about the tube

[zav]

Thanks Roland
-Marco