PJ: IN72
DVD Player: Philips DVP3005
Connection: Component
Calib Ref : THX extra on Star Wars DVD
Purpose:
After looking at Gary's suggestion last night I did a simple experiment. The purpose of the experiment was to find out how different people perceive the calibration based on standard techniques and the most obvious technique - Our eyes and the way we like to see.
Subjects: 3 - Me, my missus, and my friend (who owns the PJ. I am thinking of not giving it back to him

).
Samples
1. Reset all to Factory standards - in other words Out of box. THX not used
a. All default - Everyone liked the clean picture and felt colour looks ok. Brightness was too high and was crushing the contrast. Overall impression - good but the punch is not present and needs tweaking.
b. Gamma settings- Most liked PC and CRT but felt Film had more shadow details. While changing gamma it became quite clear that different people like diff kind of settings.
c. Change Colour Temp - Default was 6500k and it was looking good. We changed it to 7500k and it looked better. Initially thought this may have happened due to my yellow walls and hence 6500k was looking warmer. Then I recalled that in reviews it was mentioned that 7500k has a flatter curve and more appropriate than the 6500k.
2. Used THX - at 7500k and gamma set to Film
a. Followed the instructions letter by letter. Result - Only 1 liked the final settings. One observation - Number of stars in dark sky was more than I ever saw.
b. From (2a) each of us started tweaking to their own taste with ample time

till satisfied and saved it to presets. After doing that we had 3 presets and started off again with THX settings. Then we switched through presets.
While switching through presets, we felt that each of us like to see the image differently and only 1 setting was close to the THX settings. At this point we swapped discs (LOTR1, Spiderman, KingKong, Planet Earth, Aeon Flux, Toy Story2, Legally Blonde2 and a few others) and went through the presets again. Now we had some interesting observations.
In most discs the presets were fine based on our individual taste but with some discs we felt (randomly) that some tweaking is required in brightness or contrast or colour. We concluded that even if you calibrate something to your most satisfactory level, with DVDs and source the need to tweak never ends as quality and transfers are not always same.
Final conclusion - Again, I am a basic consumer and not expert.

So bear with my lack of technical knowledge.
1. We all perceive displays in various ways and there is a point somewhere where all may like a settings even if that is not the best they would like to see and perhaps that point is a proper universal calibrated settings. If you take an example at home not all of you like the same settings on telly. There will be a fight and the remote will be ever busy
2. Calibration using standard and advanced techniques is definitely good and can take you to that point where it is universally accepted and probably you will start appreciating it though it may not look as punchy as you would like it.
3. Black levels and shadow details- Lets face the fact. We need to differentiate black levels we would like to see in a display and what we call is seeing black naturally.
This is a test. Try this one
1. Stand in a well lit room. Now close your eyes. What do you see?
a. All dark -you can't see anything
b. Now cover your eyes with your hand - It turns blacker
c. Now ask someone to switch off the light - It turns jet black.
So ideally, true black is complete lack of light which is a rare thing in any natural vision your eye sees. Even if you look at a jet black substance what you see is a very dark shade of grey. It appears blacker due to relative light reflection w.r.t adjacent objects. So the question arises why we are so excited in black depth and contrast settings in displays? There is a short and sweet answer to this.
In real world we see things in 3 dimensions. 3D is an effect which plays in our brain and we try to look for that in our vision (and also some like more colourful images). Whereas the displays are all 2D. Now to make the 2D display look like 3D we introduce so called black depth and contrast. These 2 elements are essential in creating the virtual 3D feel and also the most challenging part in PJ technology. In our experiment we saw that with THX recommendation, the image shows wonderful shades of grey and absolute black is not found and that is natural. So we changed to our presets to make things blacker. Look around you. You won’t see true black unless you are in complete darkness. So why does contrast rating and black depth matter then if you should see shades of grey? It matters because higher contrast ratio allows a device to increase the relative 3d effect which you eye likes to see. Units like JVC, Pearl, SIM2 can deliver CR in range of 10000:1 – 20000:1 (On/off) and 250:1 – 500:1 or more (ANSI) and hence you can see all shades of grey and the 3D effectas as well.
If you own a lower CR (<3000:1 for DLP and <8000:1 for LCD) PJ, at any time increase the brightness in a dark scene and you will see that some more detail is revealed but the image gets washed out and you loose the 3D effect. With PJ s having higher CR this washout is greatly reduced and the brightness crush gets controlled and you can see the details and the 3D effect remains.
In my case while using the H27 I was very happy with shadow detail and contrast and now looking at IN72 I can see how much more it can reveal and greyscale is better in the IN72. IN72 is definitely the best 480PJ I have seen. Obviously Darkship3 based units will be better and premium units like JVC, Pearl, SIM2 offers phenomenal contrast and black depth.
Everyone may not agree with me and I am not sure if technically I am correct with all what I said. I just stated what I felt. techies may correct me and provide us more information. I am eager to try out DVE / AVIA and see how it works out.