[KelvinS1965]

Originally Posted by sanderdvd

Some other questions:

1.
Can I find all the released firmware versions somewhere with the changelog per firmware?

2.
Last night I noticed that Eshift did not work and I had to ENABLE the MPC setting in the service menu. Now it works but I don t see a difference when setting MPC on 0.1.2 or 3 (in the regular preferences menu). Should I be able to notice differences between 0,1, 2 and 3?

3.
I did a 5-6 hour convergence fine-tuning last night with the zones settings. I thought I read somewhere that one does not want zone convergence adjustments especially not in the center of the screen. Is this correct and if so, why is that?

4.
Most of you guys seems to use the Standard Color Profile. I found something on another forum about the Color Profiles:

''JVC projectors typically have extremely wide gamuts in their standard mode, Cinema 1 probably even reigns it in a bit for its DCI profile.
Unless there is some other issue from using it (which is possible, as there was with their earlier models) you should be using Cinema 2''

If this is true, we should be using Cinema1 or Cinema2 and not Standard.......

5.
I m going to adjust the Contrast and Brightness tonight with the AVS 709 calibrations patterns. What kind of equipment do I need to check and adjust if the Color and Tint setting has to be adjusted?

A couple of answer, maybe others can help fill in the gaps...

1. Not sure, but GaryB might be able to help. Probably not an issue on a new unit though?

2. Yes I believe you should notice a difference between MPC settings. Another owner commented similar and I think he may have returned his unit.

3. The fine tuning of convergence will lose resolution as it is done my scaling unlike the 1 pixel steps of the cheaper models. I've never really been convinced that it is worth doing and why they put it on the dearer models, perhaps someone else could give a good arguement for, but I can't: Personally I would leave it 'OFF' and just use the single pixel steps if you feel it gives a better result than default (though my HD350 can't be improved by moving as it just causes an issue in another direction, so default is best in my case).

4. Ideally you should measure the colour gamuts to see which one gives the closest to rec709. I can't remember off hand, but standard as you say seems to be a larger gamut, so would be oversaturated. However, if using an external CMS or the one in the projector in your case, then you have to start with oversaturation as the CMS can only reduce and can't add any saturation. If you are just using it pre calibration, then the THX mode should give something approaching rec709 (possibly slightly undersaturated, so chose your poison).

5. AVS HD709 is great for setting the basic brightness and contrast settings: I use it myself as part of a pre calibration set up. However, IMHO you can't really adjust the colour or tint without tools, as the coloured filters included with some test discs aren't very accurate anyway. FWIW I'd just leave them at 0. If you want equipment, then I'd highly recommend getting Chromapure and an i1 Display Pro sensor, but then this will cost around the same as your Pro calibration, so it's not a trivial commitment.

[sanderdvd]

1. Not sure, but GaryB might be able to help. Probably not an issue on a new unit though?

Thanks, I ll ask GaryB

2. Yes I believe you should notice a difference between MPC settings. Another owner commented similar and I think he may have returned his unit.

Can you point me to the user or posting that had similar problem (not seeing difference in 0,1,2 or 3)

3. The fine tuning of convergence will lose resolution as it is done my scaling unlike the 1 pixel steps of the cheaper models. I've never really been convinced that it is worth doing and why they put it on the dearer models, perhaps someone else could give a good arguement for, but I can't: Personally I would leave it 'OFF' and just use the single pixel steps if you feel it gives a better result than default (though my HD350 can't be improved by moving as it just causes an issue in another direction, so default is best in my case).

So zone convergence is NOT DONE what you are saying?

4. Ideally you should measure the colour gamuts to see which one gives the closest to rec709. I can't remember off hand, but standard as you say seems to be a larger gamut, so would be oversaturated. However, if using an external CMS or the one in the projector in your case, then you have to start with oversaturation as the CMS can only reduce and can't add any saturation. If you are just using it pre calibration, then the THX mode should give something approaching rec709 (possibly slightly undersaturated, so chose your poison).

I ve just read on the AVS forum that Standard is the closest to REC709 while Cinema1 and Cinema2 have a wider gamut.

5. AVS HD709 is great for setting the basic brightness and contrast settings: I use it myself as part of a pre calibration set up. However, IMHO you can't really adjust the colour or tint without tools, as the coloured filters included with some test discs aren't very accurate anyway. FWIW I'd just leave them at 0. If you want equipment, then I'd highly recommend getting Chromapure and an i1 Display Pro sensor, but then this will cost around the same as your Pro calibration, so it's not a trivial commitment.

CHECK!

[HAWK-EYE]

Originally Posted by sanderdvd

Thanks, I ll ask GaryB

Can you point me to the user or posting that had similar problem (not seeing difference in 0,1,2 or 3)!

Towards the end of this thread member jacked had this problem.

E-shift through an Anamorphic Lens - Viable?

[KelvinS1965]

Originally Posted by sanderdvd

So zone convergence is NOT DONE what you are saying?

It's up to you, but I just can't understand the purpose of scaling to achieve it, hence why I'd only bother using the 1 pixel steps convergence adjustment. You lose resolution, which seems to be throwing out the baby with the bath water to me (though I'm happy to be proved otherwise).

Originally Posted by sanderdvd

I ve just read on the AVS forum that Standard is the closest to REC709 while Cinema1 and Cinema2 have a wider gamut.

So for a non CMS user then Standard would probably be the one to use. Cinema 1 or 2 might be a better starting point for further adjustment using the CMS.

If you get into calibrating yourself, you might try measuring different modes as a base point. The closest mode that gives you just slightly oversaturated gamut would probably mean the least amount of CMS work: The CMS isn't always as linear as we would ideally like so there is some relevance to finding the best starting point first.

[Webmonkey]

Is firmware 29.058 the latest version? On the JVC-Kenwood site, I see a version 28.056 - this is very confusing - so I assume the firmware my X30 came with is newer than this, but where do they keep the latest firmwares for download??

[Jazz Monkey Jr]

I have put my name down against an X30 ex demo with free lamp and 5 year warranty (Richer Sounds).
Without reading all the thread what are the bad points with the X30, I've read about lamp problems etc.
I sold my Panasonic AE3000 - is the X30 a big step up from this regards to brightness/contrast etc in real terms?
Thanks.

[kbfern]

You change your mind faster than I change my pants you have put your name down for an X30 and now you want to find out if there are any issues.

They are a great pj and apart from very slight xtalk and lamps that have failed early in a few instances which bought about a change of lamp supplier there is not much negative to report.

The Richer deal is a good one as you have 5 yr warranty + a free lamp.I imagine this is because they are all probably ex demo units so teh free lamp gives some peace of mind.

I did ring up my nearest Richers yesterday and they quoted £1799 but could not tell me how many hours was on their only one demo model for sale.

[Jazz Monkey Jr]

I got them down to £1549 with the free lamp, 5 yr warranty and 1 pair of glasses.
I have read the review and looks like the best 2D performance which is what I'm after but on the review it mentions about a light room, mine is a normal living room but I am looking in to getting some material to hang around the front of the room to improve black levels.
I haven't paid for it and can change my mine as I'm on hols until Sunday so wanted to see if I have made the right choice.
For the money I don't think it can be beat, my thinking is maybe upgrade in a couple of years rather than spend £2700 on a new one and lose a old if I want to upgrade.
I've just bought new Oppo blu ray player, new Onkyo am and MK sub so I'm looking after the pennies a bit as I seem to have lost them all

Originally Posted by kbfern

You change your mind faster than I change my pants you have put your name down for an X30 and now you want to find out if there are any issues.

They are a great pj and apart from very slight xtalk and lamps that have failed early in a few instances which bought about a change of lamp supplier there is not much negative to report.

The Richer deal is a good one as you have 5 yr warranty + a free lamp.I imagine this is because they are all probably ex demo units so teh free lamp gives some peace of mind.

I did ring up my nearest Richers yesterday and they quoted £1799 but could not tell me how many hours was on their only one demo model for sale.

[kbfern]

£1549 is a bargain, I shall have to ring them back and see if they can do better.

You won't get a better 2D pj for that sort of money so don't go changing your mind again.

[Jazz Monkey Jr]

Originally Posted by kbfern

£1549 is a bargain, I shall have to ring them back and see if they can do better.

You won't get a better 2D pj for that sort of money so don't go changing your mind again.

There are a few left if you look on their website - I sold my AE3000 for £600 so a cheap upgrade for a leap in performance (hopefully)
There are 4 days - it depends if Phil gets the review of the 6000 out but I can't imaging it being £1200 better

[kbfern]

There are a few left, to be honest I just rang up to see what t hey quoted and to find out how many hours.When he said he did not know how many hours and quoted £1799 I lost my interest.

What did they quote you before you knocked them down and how hard did you have to negotiate to get them down to £1549, I may be tempted at that sort of price with the 5yr warranty + free lamp.

[Jazz Monkey Jr]

Originally Posted by kbfern

There are a few left, to be honest I just rang up to see what t hey quoted and to find out how many hours.When he said he did not know how many hours and quoted £1799 I lost my interest.

What did they quote you before you knocked them down and how hard did you have to negotiate to get them down to £1549, I may be tempted at that sort of price with the 5yr warranty + free lamp.

Not very hard (they quoted £1700) - I mentiond a friend got one from them for around £1500 (he paid £1600) and asked him for the very best price.
He says there are only 1 paid of glasses but it says 2 on their website so might try for another pair
Ring a few and say people are being quoted £1500 from other stores. The one who paid £1600 had 10 hours on the lamp.

[GaryB]

Originally Posted by kbfern

They are a great pj and apart from very slight xtalk and lamps that have failed early in a few instances which bought about a change of lamp supplier there is not much negative to report.

I don't know where that rumour started, but there was no change of lamp supplier, just the design of the lamp.

[kbfern]

Sorry Gary you are quite right I was thinking back to an earlier model but I now remember the lamp was redesigned.

[Jazz Monkey Jr]

I have just read all the owners thread, is there any basic settings, I am using it in a living room with white ceiling and brown walls, do I just use the pattern mentioned?
I will be using with an Onkyo 818 amp and Oppo 103 blu ray player.
Do I use extended whites?
Also not had a manual iris before, do I knock it down or will I need it fully open for my viewing environment?

[Anto]

Ok, so I think I'f just pulled a noob and went on other peoples recommendations as to what "works" in terms of what I've bought. So I went ahead and ordered a X30 kit with glasses, emitter etc. as well as a 114" / 2.35 screen.
Wall to wall my room is 3,60m long to which multiple people (some with the same sitting distans as mine) said it works like a charm with 114". (Originnaly having looked at a 104" but I could get the 114" for the same price).

Now I've had look at JVCs UK site and thought I'd have a look at the .xls projector calculator file...So I go ahead and put in the screen width and according to them the min. throw distans s 3.69m. Now that being from the lens to the actual screen. Problem however....Mounting instructions suggest that the projector should be mounted 20cm from the back wall for proper ventilation. Take that plus the 47,2cm of the actual projector I am loosing, lets say rounded off 70cm which brings my actual throwing distance down to 3m. So, my question really is, is that do-able? Will the projector still be able to fill up the whole screen without picture quality loss etc etc or am I kind of ******?

[HAWK-EYE]

Originally Posted by Anto

image


Ok, so I think I'f just pulled a noob and went on other peoples recommendations as to what "works" in terms of what I've bought. So I went ahead and ordered a X30 kit with glasses, emitter etc. as well as a 114" / 2.35 screen.
Wall to wall my room is 3,60m long to which multiple people (some with the same sitting distans as mine) said it works like a charm with 114". (Originnaly having looked at a 104" but I could get the 114" for the same price).

Now I've had look at JVCs UK site and thought I'd have a look at the .xls projector calculator file...So I go ahead and put in the screen width and according to them the min. throw distans s 3.69m. Now that being from the lens to the actual screen. Problem however....Mounting instructions suggest that the projector should be mounted 20cm from the back wall for proper ventilation. Take that plus the 47,2cm of the actual projector I am loosing, lets say rounded off 70cm which brings my actual throwing distance down to 3m. So, my question really is, is that do-able? Will the projector still be able to fill up the whole screen without picture quality loss etc etc or am I kind of ******?

114"diag needs 12ft 3" throw to fill.

[Anto]

Originally Posted by HAWK-EYE

114"diag needs 12ft 3" throw to fill.

So your answer is im ******? As I can tell the distans by looking at the chart myself. Was wondering if anyone as none chart experience...

[jb2130]

Just got a x30 ex display, can some one tell me if the bulb has been reset by the shop because mine only had 4 hrs on it.
Is there a service menu i can go in to see if the bulb has been reset.
Thanks.

[Anto]

Any recommendations on mounts for the X30? I'm not really looking to mount it on the ceiling, more so on the wall. Thus I'm looking for an L type mount and one that is adjustable so I can adjust the height of the projector. Any ideas?

[GaryB]

Originally Posted by jb2130

Just got a x30 ex display, can some one tell me if the bulb has been reset by the shop because mine only had 4 hrs on it.
Is there a service menu i can go in to see if the bulb has been reset.
Thanks.

There isn't. The only way you can check the actual total running time is by using the Service Software.

[Messiah]

Installed and setup my X30 today, replacing my HD750. Projector is great but just cannot get it to display 3D bluray video.

My sources are:

Mac Mini with Plex
Panasonic BDT110 3D Bluray
Sony PS3 (with latest firmware)
Xbox 360
Wii

All the above sources are connecetd to a Yamaha RX-A1010 Receiver via v1.4 HDMI leads with a 10m HDMI (again v1.4) from the receiver to the X30.

When I try to play a 3D bluray on the Panny I get a message saying that the display supports Full HD and I select that.

When I try to play a 3D bluray on the PS3 I get the option to choose 2D or 3D and when I highlight the 3D option I get a message on screen saying that no 3D capable display has been detected.

I can hear the audio from the discs (have tried both Avatar and Bolt) via the speakers but just a blank blue screen (I have set to blue screen in menu options) with the source input in the top right corner. Occasionally the screen flickers but just comes back with blank blue screen and input display. This is driving me nuts.

I have also removed the HDMI lead to the projector from the back of the receiver and plugged it directly in to the Panasonic BD player with no difference whatsoever.

Anyone got any ideas please? Am I doing something wrong, incorrect setting somewhere or is my X30 likely faulty.

Also, on another note, when I tried to adjust the \aperture setting this evening the menus on the pj completely locked up and it would not respond to any key presses whatsoever whilst at the same time there was a continual whirring sound coming from the lens area of the pj. The video was still playing fine, with the menu on screen but completely locked up. In the end I had to, reluctantly, pull the power lead out of the pj. All seems fine again after but have not tried adjusting aperture setting again, yet. Again, any ideas.

Sometimes I do wonder why I spend money to upgrade when the old item has never missed a beat

Thanks

Thanks

[toddy28]

For the ps3 you need to reset the video settings so it pick up a 3d compatible display and on the Panasonic blu ray make sure the projector is powered on before the blu ray player

I have the same player and if its powered up before my optoma hd33 it won't play 3d

I had to re organise my harmony remote to fire up the projector first before the blu ray player

Hope this helps , also how much did you pay for your hdmi leads as the really cheap eBay / amazon one have trouble with 10m runs loads of people have found the 3d issues that they have with any projector comes down to cheap poor build quality cables , on short runs all hdmi cables are normally ok but build quality is important on long runs

[Messiah]

Thanks. I fired the pj up with the Mac Mini and then changed Activities on the Harmony remote so pj was on before turning on BD player or PS3. Unfortunately, I do wonder if it may be the HDMI lead. I bought it when no 3D so IIRC it was a pretty cheap but 3D capable one. Looked excellent quality but of course looks mean nothing.

Unfortunately it has been chased through the wall and ceiling so cannot be changed without major disruption to the room. I will try connecting the BD player directly to the PJ with a short lead in the week and if it works then I will have to do some major hacking and redecoration

[Messiah]

Oh well, just connected BD player directly to pj via short hdmi lead and 3d worked a treat. Bloody cable seller assured me cable would be fine with 1080p and 3d. Should have connected and tested loose before burying in wall. Have just ordered a new cable so wil have to start thinking of best route to run with minimal disruption and redecoration required. Damn

[kbfern]

Before you go to the trouble of ripping the cable out the wall as you know the shorter cable works if you have a powered splitter try that after the amp and between the pj. So short hdmi/splitter/10 mtr hdmi/pj. 10 mtrs hdmi cable runs and over can be problematic but amplifying the signal can usually sort out any issues.

A splitter will cost £20 which is a lot less hassle than redecorating and chasing out the wall.

[Messiah]

OK, I have a couple of Neet splitters here which can work unpowered but also have a power adapter for them. Will that possibly work or would it need to be something better?

In fact I remember I have one of these somewhere bought a while ago for another purpose. Will try this.

Thanks.

[toddy28]

Or another option is the new wireless sender not cheap at £150 but will save changing the cable if the booster does not work

http://www.optoma.co.uk/accessorydetail.aspx?PC=WHD100

http://www.kikatek.com/P255542/WHD10...source=froogle

[Anto]

Anyone know how good these screens are? I can only go up to 92" with my X30 on 3m between lens and screen and the only screens I can get at over here (Sweden) is Euroscreen.

Anyone have one or seen/tested one? Also, a grey or white screen - which is best with the X30?

[Gary Lightfoot]

Grey screens are usually used for rooms with light coloured walls and/or ambient light. Use white when you have good light control and dark décor.

Gary