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Hoya ND2/4 for Acer 5360

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Old 09-06-2011, 4:17 PM   #1
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Hoya ND2/4 for Acer 5360

Hi

I'm finding the 2d image on my acer 5360bd far too bright and there's an over saturation of red colour, and turning the brightness/contrast seems to be defeating the object somewhat

Seeing as spending another £300-£400 on calibration is not going to happen, and having limited success with my DVE Basics BR, I'm interested in the talk about these hoya filters

Forgive my ignorance, but am I to presume they give a better image, more defined/sharper image, better blacks etc ?

What size should I go for, do I fit it right against the lens or at the end of the hood/recess?

Your assistance is welcome
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Old 09-06-2011, 8:09 PM   #2
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Well, as I said on another thread, I'm going to try this too, and on the same projector.

I've ordered a ND2 and ND4 Hoya filter via Amazon, should be here by early next week. I went for 62mm, as that's just a little bigger than the focus ring on the Acer, and the same size as a Sony lens I have (so, happily, I'll be able to take those fluffy waterfall and trailing vehicle light pictures if all else fails!)

I'll soon let you know my thoughts - and happy to take any objective measurements I can.

I tried attaching my 62mm UV filter with a dab of blutac - as suggested by someone else. Simple, but it works well, and is fully reversible.

Marcos
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Old 09-06-2011, 8:12 PM   #3
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Just saw the question about what these filtered do. They simpy block some of the light. They are so called 'neutral' as they should affect all wavelengths equally.

I did wonder, as it's possible to lower the brightness of the bulb in 'eco' mode, whether, theoretically at least, the bulb could be further dimmed? Would it be just a firmware update, or do these bulbs have a minimum brightness at which they can function?
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:13 PM   #4
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ND filters just reduce the lumen output (ND2 by 50%, ND4 by 75%), but others like an FL-Day can do some colour correction (and dim the image at the same time) because many pj UHP lamps produce more blue and green then they do red. By adding a colour correcting filter and recalibrating (using a colorimeter or spectroradiometer) you can gain some extra contrast as well.

Lamps can't usually be dimmed other than by choosing high or low lamp mode, so ND filters are often utilised.

Gary
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:51 PM   #5
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Thanks Gary

Do you know why projector bulbs only have a low and high, or 'normal' and 'eco, mode?

Is it a fundamental limitation of projector bulbs that they can't have brightness vary with voltage, or is it that manufacturers simply don't see the need to provide such control?
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:43 PM   #6
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I'm not really sure why there's usually only two settings, though some Sim2 models had a bit more variation, but it might be something to do with how much arc is needed to get a consistent output from the lamp, so that might dictate the low setting.

Some projectors produce less lumens than others, so sometimes you have to decide what kind of image qualities you want when you 'design' your set up, and that can determine which screen size and projector would best suit your needs. Not that long ago, projectors were never bright enough to sufficiently light up larger screens, so the issue then was projectors not being bright enough.

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Old 17-06-2011, 8:22 AM   #7
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I got the ND2 filter in the post yesterday, and being impatient, tried it out before everything's properly setup.

I found the filter to be an immediate improvement - the bright parts of the image were no longer too bright, the blacks were much better - both because of the light from the PJ being reduced, but also because less light from the screen was bouncing around the room.

Would thoroughly recommend doing this for anyone with this PJ.
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Old 17-06-2011, 10:50 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcosscriven
I got the ND2 filter in the post yesterday, and being impatient, tried it out before everything's properly setup.

I found the filter to be an immediate improvement - the bright parts of the image were no longer too bright, the blacks were much better - both because of the light from the PJ being reduced, but also because less light from the screen was bouncing around the room.

Would thoroughly recommend doing this for anyone with this PJ.
Same here

I'm glad you've said that, as I thought I was trying to convince myself

How have you attached yours, and which way round have you put it?
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Old 17-06-2011, 12:14 PM   #9
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To check it out, I just held it in place. But I found that the lip of it could just 'hang' on the lens opening of the PJ.

I used the filter in the direction it would be used on the camera - I.e. the thread on the filter facing away from the projector, and towards the screen (as if the projector screen were the 'film' or 'sensor', and the light was coming 'in' from the projector)

Last edited by marcosscriven; 17-06-2011 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 17-06-2011, 12:30 PM   #10
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I gets yer

I've purchased a 46mm sized one. It can just about be wedged in the 'hood'

I've got mine with the thread pointing at the lens

I'll try it t'other way round when I get home
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Old 17-06-2011, 12:44 PM   #11
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I think it would only make a difference of there's 1/4 wavelength bloom on the front side.

I don't think it does though, as there's not that telltale green reflection.

I got 62mm as I can use it on my camera then too.

I should note I was using the PJ in Eco mode, and it still needed this filter.
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Old 17-06-2011, 3:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcosscriven
I think it would only make a difference of there's 1/4 wavelength bloom on the front side.

I don't think it does though, as there's not that telltale green reflection.

I got 62mm as I can use it on my camera then too.

I should note I was using the PJ in Eco mode, and it still needed this filter.
I'm going to pretend I know what the 1st bit means



No, sorry. What does that mean? Does it mean if I can't see a green tinge, I'm ok with the way I have it currently?
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Old 17-06-2011, 3:32 PM   #13
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I got my 5360BD from Amazon.de a couple of weeks back. Due to a few problems fitting the screen, and a poor HDMI cable, I have only had time to give it a small test run. I found that even in zero light the picture for both 2D and 3D was great. I found that setting the degamma option to 6 made 3D content vibrant, even through the DLP glasses. I also found that setting it to 3 worked best for 2D content, as it darkened the image but kept the contrast high.
Of course this was only during a test run for a couple of hours. I need to get it mounted to the ceiling over the weekend and set up properly, but overall I have been blown away by mine. I can't see why the need for a filter? I may have missed something but what I saw I was thrilled with.

I am now using an HDCable 15m Platinum HDMI cable, and an Optoma Panoview 106 matt electric screen and the image so far is fabulous.

Another bonus with the 5360 is I haven't noticed hardly any rainbows in either 2D or 3D which I was worried about. They are there if you look for them but not annoying or distracting in any way.

Last edited by shadieb; 17-06-2011 at 3:35 PM.
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Old 17-06-2011, 3:42 PM   #14
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Can I ask where you got your screen from and how much you paid?
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Old 17-06-2011, 4:24 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by nipbiplip View Post
Can I ask where you got your screen from and how much you paid?
I got mine from Ebuyer a couple of weeks ago for £279 plus delivery. I could have had free delivery but had to make sure someone was at home, so I paid for the next day delivery option.
I have since checked Ebuyer and it seems the screen has gone up to £398 now, glad I bought it when I did
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Old 17-06-2011, 4:34 PM   #16
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Sounds a bargain!

I'll keep my eye on it to see if it goes down again

Could you tell me also, as my hooks for my current screen are already fixed to the wall, are the brackets adjustable for different widths?

The length of the housing is longer than my current screen, you see
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Old 17-06-2011, 5:00 PM   #17
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According to the user manual, they recommend putting the special mounting brackets as close to the edges of the screen as possible. Mine are around 10 inches from each end, and screwed directly into the ceiling joists. The brackets can be used on the ceiling or walls.
You fasten the brackets up first and then the screen clips into them. There are 2 thumbscrews off the brackets that fix the screen in place. If you slacken these off, the screen can then be positioned by sliding it left or right.
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Old 17-06-2011, 5:29 PM   #18
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Are there holes so you can use hooks on the brackets?

Thank you for all the info so far
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Old 17-06-2011, 7:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nipbiplip View Post
No, sorry. What does that mean? Does it mean if I can't see a green tinge, I'm ok with the way I have it currently?
Sorry, ignore more superfluous technobabble!

I just mean to say that, to me, the filter doesn't look like it has any anti-reflective coating on one side. I am only guessing here, and I really don't know that much about it.
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Old 17-06-2011, 7:15 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by shadieb View Post
I can't see why the need for a filter? I may have missed something but what I saw I was thrilled with.
I too fiddled a little with the 'degamma' setting. I found it somewhat confusing because as you go through the range, it doesn't just go darker/lighter, it seems to jump around.

When I've got it all setup, I'll try with the specific degamma setting you mentioned.

Do you use 2D in 'eco' mode?

Marcos
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Old 17-06-2011, 9:09 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by nipbiplip View Post
Are there holes so you can use hooks on the brackets?

Thank you for all the info so far
The screen comes with a pair of hooks that slot through the brackets for hanging from the ceiling.
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Old 17-06-2011, 9:11 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by marcosscriven View Post
I too fiddled a little with the 'degamma' setting. I found it somewhat confusing because as you go through the range, it doesn't just go darker/lighter, it seems to jump around.

When I've got it all setup, I'll try with the specific degamma setting you mentioned.

Do you use 2D in 'eco' mode?

Marcos
Only tried it for a couple of hours so far,as I haven't got it mounted to the ceiling yet. I did try it with eco on and off, and from what I saw I preferred it in normal mode with eco off.
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Old 17-06-2011, 10:36 PM   #23
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I'm currently using mine dark cinema mode with Eco on and, of course, the ND2 filter
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Old 24-02-2012, 12:19 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nipbiplip
I'm currently using mine dark cinema mode with Eco on and, of course, the ND2 filter
Hi just wondering how your finding the picture quality with nd2 filter, I have one ordered Along with an eye one display 2 for calibration. Should I calibrate with filter on or off?
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Old 24-02-2012, 12:24 AM   #25
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Calibrate with the filter on. Although they're meant to be Neutral Density, you may get a slight shift of around 200K IIRC which isn't much, but you might as well take the filter into account, just to be on the safe side.

Gary
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Old 24-02-2012, 1:21 AM   #26
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Thanks for the reply, now I'm thinking should i Calibrate in eco mode, would this make a difference if I then decided to turn eco mode off.
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Old 24-02-2012, 8:12 AM   #27
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I bought a Hoya ND filter a while back too. However, shortly after I discovered a simple thing: Even when not displaying a 3D image, the projector can still be in 3D mode. The only way I found to turn it off was in the 'view settings' of the green button. It's the last menu option.

When I turned that off, the brightness issue went away completely.

Your lamp will last longer too.
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Old 24-02-2012, 1:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcosscriven
I bought a Hoya ND filter a while back too. However, shortly after I discovered a simple thing: Even when not displaying a 3D image, the projector can still be in 3D mode. The only way I found to turn it off was in the 'view settings' of the green button. It's the last menu option.

When I turned that off, the brightness issue went away completely.

Your lamp will last longer too.
I knew about 3d staying on I can tell straight away if its on while watching 2d, my reason for getting the filter is that even with 3d mode off while watching 2d the image is blinding even in eco mode, I'm hoping the nd2 filter will improve this and maybe get a bonus of better black levels at the same time :-)
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Old 24-02-2012, 2:34 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by stevie79 View Post
I knew about 3d staying on I can tell straight away if its on while watching 2d, my reason for getting the filter is that even with 3d mode off while watching 2d the image is blinding even in eco mode, I'm hoping the nd2 filter will improve this and maybe get a bonus of better black levels at the same time :-)
Are you sure that the 3D mode is turned off, its a night and day difference on my PJ. With 3D mode off the image is fine nowhere near your description of "blinding"? Something doesn't sound right
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Old 24-02-2012, 3:41 PM   #30
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3d mode is definitely off when I'm watching 2d and the image is very bright especially white. I play 2d in eco mode. Does 3d mode actually change the light output of projector anyway? I thought 3d mode just made the image blurry and then you use the glasses which takes the edge of the brightness of the projector. I'm not saying this is right I'm just guessing :-) I'll have a look tonight. I'm new to projectors this is my 1st so I'm probably completely wrong lol
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