[tums]

Hello,

I stepped over from a dutch forum where a placed a question about my Barco Data 800. I still have no answer for my problem so I like to try it overhere.

I have a Barco for 3 weeks now. I connected a HTPC on input 5 with a RGBHV cable. Now since I have no picture I connected my Onky DVD player on input 2 with a S-Video cable, but I don't know if this works.

I took out all the prints and checked the components and all solder connections. Wath looked like a bad connection I re-solder, but unfortunatly I found nothing. I also tried 2 deifferent VGA - RGBHV cables, without result.

After placing back the prints, I put the power back on. You here the fans blowing and I hear a vibrating High frequency sound. The red led on the V-board is out. Strange, since there is no source. When I put on a source (DVD on input 2) and select this input, the vibration in the high frequency sound is gone. When I choose an input without a source I see the red led on the V-board comming on, and going of when I select input 2.

I see the end of the tubes glowing, but I here no static sound of the tubes going on. I don't see any red led's burning.

I checked the leds on the power supply. All 7 yellow leds are on and the red (scan fail) is off. When I change the input the red scan fail led blinks, but maybe this is normal.

I checked the red led on the EHT board and it's fine. It doesn't come on when the projector is on.

I see the red led D23 a little bit glowing on the H-Output board. It says in the service manual that this led is on whem the image is to wide.
I tried differnt resolutions on the HTPC using VNC on another PC, but again no results. Resolution is now back on 1280x720 bij 60kHz.

I don't know where to look anymore. I can see no fault, but I still don't have any picture. I turned up the Brightness and Contrast, but stil no picture. I see the controller board responding when I push a button on the remote, so the Barco gets its signal.

Is there anyone who can point me in the right direction. Until now I couldn't find a solution using seach engines.

Hopefully I get it up and running again. It's my first experience with beamers and I'm already hooked.

With kind regards.

Bert

[Roland @ B4]

Hi Bert welcome to the forums
Have a look down the tubes is there any glow at all?
Do you here the EHT crackle as the projector powers up.

[tums]

Hello Roland@B4,

Thank you for your responce. I hear a high frequency sound at the back of the beamer. I hear no crackling sound. When I write I see the tube glowing, I meant the small part of the tube. At the front the tube I see nothing, not even when I turn up the brightness and contrast.

Someone pointed me in the direction of the input board. It seems that it is highly sensitive for static electricity. In the beginning I switched from beamer to monitor without powering down. I already downloaded the service manual for this board, but is there anyone who can point me in the right direction? Is it possible to repair or should I look for a new one?

[Roland @ B4]

this sounds more like a clasic Quadrupler failure.

Check the EHT card again sometimes the LED is really dim.
Also worth checking the fuse on the EHT card whilst you are there.

[tums]

Thanks Roland for pointing me in the right direction. I checked the components and the solder contacts, but I didn't check the fuses. The one on the EHT board was broken. I replaced it with a new one. It was a F2A, fortunatly a had a spare. Now the red led on the EHT board is shining bright. Back to the manual to check out what is causing this.

[Tom.W]

Sounds like a bad HV quad or HV splitter. I't could also be the EHT module or a shorted tube. You can eliminate the shorted tube and splitter by removing the high voltage line from the HV quad to the splitter. But sounds to me like a bad quad. You cannot fix the quad and will need a replacement if that's the case.

[tums]

Okee, thanks.
Somebody wrote me a mail with the same answer. The problem is that the cost for a quad or splitter are higher then the cost I made for this beamer. Maybe I should look for another 800 and keep thisone for spareparts.

You said I could check it by removing the connection between the quad and the splitter. If the quad is ok, wil the led on the EHT board go out? At least something to try and narrow down the possibilities.

[Tom.W]

See this...

Barco 500/800/801 Tips and Manuals

Not sure what your budget is but a used but working quad for an 800 model shouldn't cost too much.

[Roland @ B4]

Originally Posted by tums

You said I could check it by removing the connection between the quad and the splitter.

The end of that lead would have 32,000 volts flying about. It's not a recommended way or checking

[tums]

Hi everyone,
I had to work late today, but couldn't resist to check the beamer.
I removed the connection between the quad and the splitter. The led on the EHT board came on. Okee, so here's the problem, or does he come on because there is no splitter attached? So I connected it again and removed the red wires from the tube to eliminate a shorted tube. With every action the led was on. So I think it's save to say that the Quad is broken. I got an offer to buy another 800 with 738 hours running time. Friday I will pick it up. Then I can wath again and look for a quad to repair my 800.
Thanks for the information and I will update this thread if there's something new.

[Tom.W]

With less then 800 hours on the CRT's and electronics why not just replace your existing projector if the new replacement projector is working OK ?

[tums]

Hi Tom,
that's the plan. I got some screenshots and they look great. So i'm going to use this PJ and look for parts for my PJ, which has 900 hours running time. This way I can learn how the PJ works and safely try to get the best out of it. In the meantime I can watch movies with the new 800. During my quest for answers I got information on how to tune your PJ. If my 800 works again, I can try them out without the risc of no picture again.

[Roland @ B4]

Please everyone be careful doing this sort of testing, this is a very dangerous recommendation these sorts of high voltages will jump like lightning.

Tom / Tums I'm sure you know what you were doing but there will be others who are less experienced or more fool hardy

That thin coax wire attached to the Splitter measures the high voltage and gives feed back to the EHT regular board.

I'm pretty certain that it would put the projector into EHT hold-down in this sort of test anyhow, achieving nothing. but the danger of it finding earth via another route is potentially lethal.

I do this for a living and there is no way I would do or even recommend what you have just done. Let's be carefull out there

[Barcoing Mad]

I agree with Roland. This is analagous to teaching a stranger to drive without first meeting them, and sitting in a car with them off-road, but instead sending a list of instructions and the ignition key to them through the post.

Back in the day, my reseach involved working with stuff in the range 20kV to 100kV. Despite being careful and having experience, it was all too easy to make a mistake.

[tums]

Reading your concern I wonder if I did the test right. I took of the wires from the focus board. On Barco 500/800/801 Tips and Manuals you see a picture of it, but not the red wires on top of it. Every time I took of a wire I waited for 5 minutes to let the voltage flow away. I watched carefully that I didn't touched any metal at all and all is done without the powercable connected. Did I checked and took out the wrong wires? I know what high voltage can do, so I understand what you are saying. To everyone, take Roland's and Barcoing Mad's advice and don't fool arround with this if you have no experience in this field. Leave this to the specialists. I'm not a specialist so I was lucky this time.

[Roland @ B4]

Originally Posted by tums

I was lucky this time.

[Tom.W]

After a bit more thought on this I should have recommended removing the anode leads one tube at a time from the splitter or all three to eliminate the splitter and a tube short.

Since it appears to me to be a failed quad there would be no high voltage anyway but yes you need to use EXTREME CAUTION ! when working on the high voltage lines. I have never personally seen a bad splitter though...

[tums]

Okee, it's clear to me now, this was not the right way to do thing. I've had the same kind of reactions over here in Holland. I wanted answers fast and didn't read the manuals as well as I should have. I will better my life and take more time the next time (not that I 'll take off red HV lines anymore) to learn what I'm doing.

The first step now is to get a new quad. Should I look for more parts which are easely broken? I'm in contact with someone over in the UK who has different spare parts. Advice in what to order is very welcome.

[Roland @ B4]

The quad is the most comon failure on an 800
The next will be the rgb amplifier boards

If you haven't done so yet go over the big solder joints on the main power supply