Sony 1271 problem. Any gurus about?

BobbyBlaze · 15-08-2009, 5:41 PM

Hi everybody!

I switched on the old 1271 the other day and was disappointed to find it had gone faulty since I had last had time to fire her up. I can describe the fault as the raster area (normally in widescreen) 'popping' (no sound just sudden) into a 4:3 area and then slowly fading (10-15 seconds) until there was zero light output. Happened a few times so I gave up rather than make anything worse.

Does this ring any bells with anyone? What kind of faulty board would cause a problem like this? Anything useful I can do with limited tools to help diagnose the problem further?

I must admit I am kinda fond of the old girl and would like to get her running again. There will be a time to go digital but today is not that day. (Waiting for 1080p 120hz 3d capable digitals with decent blacks at a reasonable pop so a few more years yet to go it would seem). Till then the 1271 will suffice if it's possible to get 'er going again.

Any suggestions?

Cheers,

Rob

draganm · 15-08-2009, 8:30 PM

My only suggestion is Curt Palme, he's worked on hundreds of these and probably seen this problem before. Possibly a high voltage issue.

audimushroom · 16-08-2009, 11:22 AM

Hi Rob

Yes do keep her going, CRT is hard to beat...

I'm sure the 1271 has an error code readout on it, yep here is a link onto Curt's site..

Sony 125x/127x Tips and Manuals

that will help and the meaning of the codes may lead to the cause..

let us know how you get on...

Karl

BobbyBlaze · 18-08-2009, 2:06 PM

Thanks guys, I'll pull the cover as soon as I get a chance and take a look and report back.

Many thanks,

Rob

TVrepairman000 · 12-09-2009, 8:30 PM

Hi yes a VPH-1271 guru is here to the rescue.

Re-solder all the transistors bolted to the heatsinks on the very top 2 circuit boards you see when you take the lid off, you may / have to take the boards right out / off the hinge metal frame to get to all the legs on all of the devices due to metalwork being in the way.

These ALWAYS go if they have not been done before so this is the first thing to check / do.

Don't take the heatsinks off, leave them attached to the boards / devices but handle the boards with care as they could snap.

The legs over time have gone dry jointed and the intermittent connection they are now making is going to cause lots of issues like you have.

E and DC boards are what the 2 boards are called.

Once these have been re-soldered this generally cures most if not all faults and PJ goes on to last another 16+ years.

Check this website out, it’s got pages showing the boards.

John Mears Dot Co Dot UK click on the green photos link at the top of the text and they are right down the bottom.

This guy does repair these boards as well if you don’t want to do yourself.

Hope this helps