[StooMonster]

The subject says it all, are there any Ceiling Recessed Tab Tensioned Electric projection screens?

If not, how much of a problem is it to have a regular Ceiling Recessed projection screen as opposed to a tab tensioned one? Mrs StooMonster does not want a big long "box" on the ceiling.

Thanks

StooMonster

[markswift2003]

Yep - loads!

Beamax, Screenline, Screen Research, Stewart in order of price (from perfectly reasonable to barking mad) and plenty more in between.

The recessed ones do tend to be a bit dearer, but I've also fitted quite a few wall mount jobs in ceiling with the screen dropping through a slot finished off with some angle bead - finished properly, it looks very nice.

Obviously it depends which way the joists run, but you can either fit to joist, or noggin between joists and fit to that.

I'd go for tab tensioning if possible.

Mark

[StooMonster]

Thanks Mark, that is fantastic news.

The joints run in parallel to where I want the ceiling recessed, so it should be a doodle; I don't think there are many noggins ... we recently replaced the ceiling in the kitchen by pulling down the old one and I only remember the long joists.

The ceiling is a Victorian lath and plaster one, with lining paper on the underside; so I imagine it will make quite a mess cutting it out.

Definitely want tab tensioning though; and as clean and unintrusive recess as possible in the living room.

StooMonster

[markswift2003]

Originally Posted by StooMonster

The ceiling is a Victorian lath and plaster one, with lining paper on the underside; so I imagine it will make quite a mess cutting it out.

StooMonster

Ergh! Thats going to be messy as hell! I know this because our house is the same!

I would suggest getting the floor up above where the screen is going and firstly clear out all the inevitable rubbish that'll be there between the joists then give it a damn good hoovering.

It's going to make a hell of a mess cutting the hole, but once done and edges etc are finished off, I'd give the whole of the area between the joists, including the joist faces, a coat or two of some kind of emulsion paint to seal it - trouble with lath & plaster ceilings is that they always seem to generate dust in the ceiling void, and you want to try and keep that away from the workings of the screen as much as possible.

And don't forget the power supply too! Just a 13A socket or a fused switched spur under the floor is just the job.

loadsa fun

Mark

[StooMonster]

Thanks Mark

I was thinking of fixing plasterboard on top of lath and plaster to seal it in, and attach the screen to a rafter; and sealing either side of it with plasterboard too, precisely because of the dust. I also thought this would help with keeping the laths intact, because they could become lose otherwise. But I like your emulsion paint as sealer idea.

I recently had some structural work done on the back of my house, and as I said above we had to pull down the lath and plaster ceiling in the kitchen -- it's six months later and I think the dust is still falling in the house!

Any suggestions on how to finish off the edges of the hole?

StooMonster

[markswift2003]

If you go for an actual in-ceiling model, you won't need to finish the hole off - usually the screen fits in the hole, generally hung from a pre-attached bracket on threaded bar or some such arrangement and then there's a bottom trim plate that fits over the opening. Others have a case which is fitted first and the screen mechanism goes into that, followed by the trim plate. More expensive ones have a trap-door arrangement.

If you're going to fit a wall/on-ceiling model in there, then you can trim the hole with wooden angle bead, mitred at the corners, caulk it, and paint to match the ceiling. B&Q, Wickes etc have the stuff in the Decorative Mouldings bit. I've had to do this a few times, and finished properly it looks really nice and actually much more discreet than an In-Ceiling.

Another tip - if the bottom bar of the screen is black, use masking tape and mask off all but the bottom of it - paint that bit the same colour as the ceiling, and when you set the drop, set it so the bar sits in the hole exposing your painted bit which is then not visible when the screen's down in normal viewing .. just adds to the stealth!!

Another thing to note - when going doen the DIY route make sure you know how to set the drop! - usually allen screws or such-like up in the case to one side of the roller - so make sure you can get to them!

Mark

ps - This is the sort of stuff for the edge:

[StooMonster]

Mark

Thanks for your post, very helpful.

It has to be in ceiling rather than a box on the ceiling, it's part of the agreement with Mrs StooMonster; so I like your thoughts about it being more discrete than an In-Ceiling model, she'll like that.

What do you do about IR detector, or whatever triggers screen up/down?

I think I'll probably get someone to do it for me rather than DIY, if it's my builder I will ensure that he leaves gap for allen keys.

I am currently in the process of speaking to local AV dealers (Kent) to get quotes for what they think is the right screen plus installation.

StooMonster

[markswift2003]

For the control, it depends how the screen does it - if it's IR then they tend to come with a dongle on a dangly wire that can be fitted discretely somewhere near the screen, in or on the ceiling, or some are RF, so no line of site needed.

Some do have IR built into the case, but that's going to be a problem if you're mounting in the ceiling - not insurmountable though as you could use an IR repeater..

I would chat to whomever supplies the screen for that - explain exactly how you're mounting it and get the best solution for that installation.

For my money, IR on a dongle is the best bet (although they may come with an RF remote as well to program drops, depending on the sophistication of the screen). With IR control, if you want to use a universal remote now or in the future you won't be snookered as you would if it was purely RF controlled.

Mark

[StooMonster]

Da-Lite Tensioned Advantage Electrol with Cinema Vision material is what's been recommended to me; which I think works with 12v trigger (which is cool as my Radiance and Arcam Pre-processor can control this). Automation, sweet!

StooMonster