[NotApplicable]

Hi all

Have decided to go ahead with a plan that I have been wanting to start for a very long time now. The plan is to basically, network up my home from start to finish. I'm just needing a little help along the way. I will, if anyone wishes, post pictures of the progress etc.

So, to start with I have hired out a laser distance meter, and I have been able to replicate an exact model of my house into Google Sketchup with near to 99% accuracy.

I know what I have to do:

1. Drill a hole through the hall way wall to the exterior
2. Run a weather resistant cable from the router all the way up the exterior wall and through another hole at the top leading into the loft.
3. That cable will then pass through the loft, down through the airing cupboard, down through the floorboards and out through to the cupboard in the kitchen (which is located directly under the airing cupboard). For ease of access, pipes are running down from the loft, into the airing cupboard, and keep going right to the floor of the kitchen cupboard. So it's only a matter of following those pipes.
4. I then need to cut out a quad socket hole in one room, line it with a dry wall back box (those applebyones) (due to stud wall), and run four cables from that, through the stud wall, and up into the loft. From there it will take the same route as point no. 3.
5. I also need to cut out a double socket in another room (same dry wall back box), run it up through the stud wall and into the loft. Again, from there it will take the same route as point no. 3.
6. Finally, everything will terminate in the cupboard in the kitchen.
7. There I will have an 8 port Gigabit switch, NAS, and patch panel.

I just need a little information.

1. Where could I find everything that I need to go ahead with my install, and all in one place (that way I can save on P&P)? Cable testers, wire cutters, punch down tool, patch panel, dry wall back boxes, quad and dual faceplates, and 2 types of cable, weather resistant as well as normal suitable for use indoor cable.
2. What cable should I be thinking of? Cat5e, Cat5e shielded, Cat6 etc?
3. Am I forgetting anything?

Thanks all!

[themediaman]

I would be interested in seeing a picture documentary........

[Deadringers]

Originally Posted by NotApplicable

Hi all

Have decided to go ahead with a plan that I have been wanting to start for a very long time now. The plan is to basically, network up my home from start to finish. I'm just needing a little help along the way. I will, if anyone wishes, post pictures of the progress etc.

So, to start with I have hired out a laser distance meter, and I have been able to replicate an exact model of my house into Google Sketchup with near to 99% accuracy.

I know what I have to do:

[*]Drill a hole through the hall way wall to the exterior[*]Run a weather resistant cable from the router all the way up the exterior wall and through another hole at the top leading into the loft.[*]That cable will then pass through the loft, down through the airing cupboard, down through the floorboards and out through to the cupboard in the kitchen (which is located directly under the airing cupboard). For ease of access, pipes are running down from the loft, into the airing cupboard, and keep going right to the floor of the kitchen cupboard. So it's only a matter of following those pipes.[*]I then need to cut out a quad socket hole in one room, line it with a dry wall back box (those applebyones) (due to stud wall), and run four cables from that, through the stud wall, and up into the loft. From there it will take the same route as point no. 3.[*]I also need to cut out a double socket in another room (same dry wall back box), run it up through the stud wall and into the loft. Again, from there it will take the same route as point no. 3.[*]Finally, everything will terminate in the cupboard in the kitchen.[*]There I will have an 8 port Gigabit switch, NAS, and patch panel.


I just need a little information.

[*]Where could I find everything that I need to go ahead with my install, and all in one place (that way I can save on P&P)? Cable testers, wire cutters, punch down tool, patch panel, dry wall back boxes, quad and dual faceplates, and 2 types of cable, weather resistant as well as normal suitable for use indoor cable.[*]What cable should I be thinking of? Cat5e, Cat5e shielded, Cat6 etc?[*]Am I forgetting anything?


Thanks all!

Good luck mate. For any long cable runs I would use cat 6 solid core cable.
If that is way more expensive then perhaps use cat 5 e solid core.

I say solid core cable as it is more durable than the stranded stuff and over longer distances it does provide a better signal. For any shorter runs just use the stranded stuff.

And as you said for anything that is going outside get a weather resist cable.

Oh and when you're running the cables try to keep them as far away as you can from power/light cables as you can.

[NotApplicable]

Thanks everyone who has posted so far.

What's the difference between solid core and shielded? Am I correct in saying:

• Shielded - less interference from outside variables - electrical noise etc
• Solid Core - better signal over longer distances

I understand the need to keep the cables well away from electrical cables, though, what would be the minimum distance? I've heard 2 inches, but I'd like to be clear on it first before I go ahead.


Also, does anyone have any places that I could buy the whole lot from at once? That way I can save majorly on P&P, as I live in Northern Ireland, companies do charge an arm and a leg. Yes, I could have been charged £15 in delivery in the past for a £2 cable, so you can see why I'm so keen on getting everything in the one place.

[Kristian]

Originally Posted by NotApplicable

What's the difference between solid core and shielded? Am I correct in saying:

• Shielded - less interference from outside variables - electrical noise etc
• Solid Core - better signal over longer distances

I understand the need to keep the cables well away from electrical cables, though, what would be the minimum distance? I've heard 2 inches, but I'd like to be clear on it first before I go ahead.

Shielded allows for better rejection of EMI, assuming it's terminated correctly. In the home, it's generally OTT and U[nsheilded]TP will be fine.

Solid Core should be used for the run-outs (it terminates into IDCs/modules correctly) between rooms and central location, and stranded should be used for patch leads to connect devices to run-outs .

solid vs stranded over long distances is rubbish. If a Catx cable is certified then for Ethernet it means it will run to the same distance because that is what the spec says: Cat5E = 10/100/1000Mbps to 100m, and Cat6 is the same plus 10Gb to 35m, and Cat6a is 10/100/1000/10Gb to 100m, it doesn't matter if it's stranded or solid.


IIRC, separation for data use is 50mm in metal sectioned trunking, but I've seen 50mm separation in plastic conduit a lot.

[Daleboy16]

Hi

I use HDMI Cable USB Ethernet Cable Optical Travel adapters Network Cables. for purchasing my cables. They also sell the tools you need and any type of cable you can think of

Regards,

Dale

[niall campbell]

Amazon is best bet and Cat 6 with the ends already on it.

I have a 5 port Gigabit switch in my loft which feeds my bedrooms , and in some of them they have another switch ......... You can daisylink them

Amazon cheap as chips
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005...3847977&sr=8-2

[Darren2012]

I too am from n Ireland and am wondering where to get my cable, cat6 utp is what I have been told to get by an installer he told me to put in 2 cat6 and 3 coaxial
The plan is to run it through a system to where each tv in the house can pick up the sat channels along with a 6 zone speaker system for music and tv sound also a home cinema room @ a later date but I woul like to pull all cables through now before I plasterboard it, i would like to try and install the equipment myself is this a massive job for a novice like myself? The installer talked about a matrix system and a dune media player and control4 to operate? But it's £500 for a licence for contro4 on ur iPad!!! Any advice starting with cable ect would be a great help, that's why I have came hear is to learn, I will also set up a thread with photos and stage by stage I hope to be in my house for crimbo
Thanks Darren

[MonkeyJug]

Originally Posted by NotApplicable

Hi all

Have decided to go ahead with a plan that I have been wanting to start for a very long time now. The plan is to basically, network up my home from start to finish. I'm just needing a little help along the way. I will, if anyone wishes, post pictures of the progress etc.

So, to start with I have hired out a laser distance meter, and I have been able to replicate an exact model of my house into Google Sketchup with near to 99% accuracy.

I know what I have to do:

1. Drill a hole through the hall way wall to the exterior
2. Run a weather resistant cable from the router all the way up the exterior wall and through another hole at the top leading into the loft.
3. That cable will then pass through the loft, down through the airing cupboard, down through the floorboards and out through to the cupboard in the kitchen (which is located directly under the airing cupboard). For ease of access, pipes are running down from the loft, into the airing cupboard, and keep going right to the floor of the kitchen cupboard. So it's only a matter of following those pipes.
4. I then need to cut out a quad socket hole in one room, line it with a dry wall back box (those applebyones) (due to stud wall), and run four cables from that, through the stud wall, and up into the loft. From there it will take the same route as point no. 3.
5. I also need to cut out a double socket in another room (same dry wall back box), run it up through the stud wall and into the loft. Again, from there it will take the same route as point no. 3.
6. Finally, everything will terminate in the cupboard in the kitchen.
7. There I will have an 8 port Gigabit switch, NAS, and patch panel.

I just need a little information.

1. Where could I find everything that I need to go ahead with my install, and all in one place (that way I can save on P&P)? Cable testers, wire cutters, punch down tool, patch panel, dry wall back boxes, quad and dual faceplates, and 2 types of cable, weather resistant as well as normal suitable for use indoor cable.
2. What cable should I be thinking of? Cat5e, Cat5e shielded, Cat6 etc?
3. Am I forgetting anything?

Thanks all!

Seems like an awful lot of work, going up, just to come back down.

I have recently done exactly what you intend to do, only with 2xcat6 points in 5 rooms. They all terminate at a 24-port patch panel in a cupboard under the stairs where i have my 24-port switch and server, and all my other toys, amp, xbox, ps3 blu-ray, sky box etc...

You will save yourself ALOT of hassle if you relocate your router into the same cupboard. I did this and it will save you going up and back down.

Just use a run of cat6 from your phone socket to your cupboard, (you only need to punch down 2 wires) and hook it upto your router inside the cupboard. I reckon you will save on about 7 runs doing i that way, and a lot of frustration...

Let me know how it goes and if you need anymore info.

Ps. I'm from ni too!

[Darren2012]

Monkeyjug: should I do the same? Also is it better to have your port centred? The room I have to put all my toys and equipment in is upstairs and at the far end of the house,
Where abouts in n Ireland you from?

[NotApplicable]

I apologise that I have abandoned ship for a little while. However it has allowed me to confirm the layout and setup.

Here's whats happening:

1. Hallway - 1 Network Point, 2 cables (1 live, 1 spare). Ran to outside wall, up and back into the loft, over and down into the airing cupboard
2. Bedroom 1 - 4 Network Points, 1 socket. Thru stud wall into loft and down into the airing cupboard
3. Bedroom 2 - 2 Network Points, 1 socket. Thru stud wall, into loft and down into the airing cupboard
4. Living Room - 1 Network Point. Thru concrete wall, into loft and down into airing cupboard. Trunking already there due to previous analogue TV COAX.
5. Airing Cupboard - NAS, App Server, Patch Panel, Switch

____

Through my investigation I've found that the stud walls have horizontal bracers, with wires already penetrating from the loft. I'm going to attach some sort of shim, with wire so that I can follow the wire down, and at the same time pull my fish line.

Due to the close proximity to these live electrical cables, I am going to buy shielded Cat6 Solid.

The above picture is the run for Bedroom 2.

The above picture is the run for Bedroom 1 - might be a bit of a squeeze with 4 cables.

____

I have found a retailer in Northern Ireland that does supply bulk Cat5e, Cat6. They are called Black Box Network Services, and are in Antrim.

____

Shopping List (Please Verify?)

1. Cat6 Shielded
   
2. Cat6 Stranded
3. 2 Gang Dry Wall box x 1
   
4. 1 Gang Dry Wall box x1
   
5. Twin Port Cat 6 Face Plate x1
   
6. Quad Port Face Plate x1
   
7. Single Port Cat 6 Face Plate x2

____

I already have the following tools - Punch Down Tool, Cable Crimper, Network Tester.

It was the following kit - LAN Ethernet/ Network Cable/ Lead Tester, Punch Down & RJ45 Crimp Tool Kit Set

____

My Questions to you!

1. Do the RJ45 plug ends have specifications? I.e. Cat5, Cat5e, Cat6?
2. Do the Network Points themselves have the same specifications?

[rs6mra]

RJ45 ends for Cat6 do exist and some may argue that there is no difference between that and the normal Cat 5 ones available. Testing a Cat6 installation is quite expensive & this is not usually done in the home. I however went with the Cat6 specs

[NotApplicable]

Really wish I would start listening, and stop trying to go overboard.

After reading around, Shielded Cable needs to be grounded - something that I do not have access to.
Source: Do I need shielded keystone with shielded cat6? - AnandTech Forums

Also, Cat6, Solid, Shielded is very bulky in the sense that it almost is the diameter of a normal power cable - something that I am limited to regarding those predrilled holes.
Source: Amazon.co.uk: Jonathan Gazeley "dj_judas21"'s review of FTP CAT6 Gigabit Ethernet Network COPPER C...

And not to mention that it will bring down my total expenditure.


Following up on this new wealth of knowledge I am leaning towards the fact that shielded cable is out of the question.

Which leads me onto my next question:

1. Will there be any adverse affects from the fact that I will be running unsheilded cat6 cables beside those electrical cables shown in the pictures?
   

[rs6mra]

just settle for Cat5e which would more than suit your needs. In hindsight I wouldn't have bothered with Cat6.

[Deadringers]

To be honest unless you got some VERY high powered lights or equipment on the other end of those power cables then it will be fine.

Just order some CAT5, bang it in.

Jobs done.

[NotApplicable]

In regards to something not a home scenario, in which sense I mean these:

http://www.creativecrash.com/system/...jpg?1251128425

I would firstly assume everything is Shielded?

[Kristian]

Originally Posted by NotApplicable

I would firstly assume everything is Shielded?

Not necessarily. It's three compartment trunking so power will be in one channel and the data in another. The separation between the cables is enough to allow UTP.

[Kristian]

I've only skim read the thread but in general, when running Cat5E/6 like you are you should be using solid cored cable (not CCA) into faceplates/modules which need terminating into IDCs with a punch down tool, not plugs. Usually UTP is fine in a home environment so S/FTP is unnecessary.

Buy shorter patch leads to connect your devices to the cable runouts. If it were me doing this then I'd choose Cat6 if the cost difference to Cat5E was small. There is a potential for future proofing in that Cat6 will run 10Gb Ethernet to 35m, but whose to say when the need arises or the cost of 10Gb NICs falls to a level where it's needed in the home. The only current benefit of Cat6 over Cat5E at the moment is if you want to run HDMI baluns over Catx cable (note, not HDMI over IP, just over the cabling) because the Cat6 works better than Cat5E according to the sub forum on here.

If you've used trunking for your runs then any cabling may be easily replaced in the [far] future for Cat9 () or fibre.

[Ian932]

Originally Posted by Darren2012

But it's £500 for a licence for contro4 on ur iPad!!!

Not now Control4 just launched their new HC800 and HC250 with the licence built in and the Intercom licence, also V2.4 gives you TuneIn on a HC800 that could be four stream running at once.

[Ian932]

Originally Posted by NotApplicable

1. Will there be any adverse affects from the fact that I will be running unsheilded cat6 cables beside those electrical cables shown in the pictures?

Regulations recommend 100mm seperation between data and LV cabling (LV being 50 - 1000v) or to be housed in the appropriate enclosure (trunking, conduit etc.) to give them the correct electrical separation, this is nothing to do with interference but to do with cable insulation properties as most data cable is not approved at the 1000v rating that LV cabling is.

[NotApplicable]

Originally Posted by Kristian

I've only skim read the thread but in general, when running Cat5E/6 like you are you should be using solid cored cable (not CCA) into faceplates/modules which need terminating into IDCs with a punch down tool, not plugs. Usually UTP is fine in a home environment so S/FTP is unnecessary.

Buy shorter patch leads to connect your devices to the cable runouts. If it were me doing this then I'd choose Cat6 if the cost difference to Cat5E was small. There is a potential for future proofing in that Cat6 will run 10Gb Ethernet to 35m, but whose to say when the need arises or the cost of 10Gb NICs falls to a level where it's needed in the home. The only current benefit of Cat6 over Cat5E at the moment is if you want to run HDMI baluns over Catx cable (note, not HDMI over IP, just over the cabling) because the Cat6 works better than Cat5E according to the sub forum on here.

If you've used trunking for your runs then any cabling may be easily replaced in the [far] future for Cat9 () or fibre.

What is the whole deal with 'Copper Clad Aluminum' anyway? Is it a poor mans network cable, or is it the same thing as 'If it's rated for Cat5e, then it is Cat5e'?

__________________________________________________ ______________
***Update***

So just bought the dry wall back boxes and an steel back box for the network point in the hallway. Ordered from CPC because I'm a cheapo and didn't really want to fork out for delivery, so availed from their 'WEBFREE' free delivery offer.


To keep costs down I do believe I am going to go the cheaper route and run Cat5e. This is still an argument that I am having in my head.


I have considered further how I am routing the cables due to those electrical wires in the above photographs, and I have came to the following conclusion:

In the bedroom with 4 termination points the electrical socket is 280mm from the external wall, and between that and the wall there is another empty space in the stud wall. Dropping the wires down from the loft could pose a challenge though due to the roof angling down.

The bedroom with the 2 termination points directly shares the same stud wall, and both network sockets are going in on the same wall (just either side). I propose in that bedroom rather than taking the network cable straight up and beside the live wires I am going to run it horizontally to meet the other 4 cables. Before I do that I am going to sign up to DIYnot to confirm if holes can be drilled horizontally in the wooden joists in a stud wall.

Regardless of which way I'm going I'm still going to need to drill something. I've looked at youtube videos where people use a spade bit at an angle to make holes. I'm probably over complicating things here, but to keep the holes as straight as possible I am considering something like this: Toolzone Right Angle Drill Attachment only £11 with FREE Delivery* and that will allow me to put in some plastic conduit.

All dirty work i.e. opening up flanges for the install will be done in the bedroom that has the 4 termination points as the room is going to be redecorated.


The next thing that I am looking at is a switch, though I am sure my 8 port gigabit netgear (GS108) would suffice it won't allow expansion, and the fact that it's not managed. I have been looking more at netgear's stuff and I do like the look of: GS724T-300 - It's rack mountable too!


So that will lead me onto a rack or cabinet. So far I've been looking at something cheap and cheerful:
Bare bones style: 4u 19'' Mounting Bracket - attached to the roof allowing for room below for a NAS, or other desktop come server solution.

Cabinet style: NC-W6U-EL450 NetCab NC-W6U-EL450


So far this is my basket at Kenable:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/1823866/%24A...4/network1.png

[neilball]

CCA cannot be sold as Cat5e or Cat6 as the standards for these requires solid copper conductors. CCA has different electrical properties to pure copper, so the performance of the cable is not the same. It may pass basic Ethernet tests but it will struggle in high bandwidth situations such as HDMI over cat extenders. Ultimately CCA is all about making low cost cables, so I'd suggest steering clear and sticking with "proper" solid copper cable.

[NotApplicable]

What about in regards to stranded patch cables? Do the same principles apply?

[blankscreen]

Speaking as a Molex registered LAN installation engineer, this thread is a classic demonstration of a little knowledge is just so dangerous.

unless you going to be pulling large files like films from a NAS, CAT5e UTP is just fine for most needs, as is modern high speed WiFi which I happily stream movies over.

move to screened (STP) or CAT6 then your into a much higher skill needs for termination, if you can not terminate the cables properly you will likely actually be worse off than using CAT5e or even telecom cable..

Now ask yourself this, without access to a proper very expensive Network analyser - cost circa £5k+ for CAT6 capable unit, - how on earth will you ever know you have made the best connections for your more expensive investment, and which if not all are below standard - even if you were to use CAT5e?

You mention in an earlier post about fishing cables through existing lateral noggins within partition walls, these holes will likely have mains cables passed through them, making it against both building and electrical regs to mix high and low voltage potentials within the same containment, that apart you need 18" of separation for cable's that are run parallel with mains cables, or you will get induced interference.

[NotApplicable]

Originally Posted by blankscreen

Speaking as a Molex registered LAN installation engineer, this thread is a classic demonstration of a little knowledge is just so dangerous.

unless you going to be pulling large files like films from a NAS, CAT5e UTP is just fine for most needs, as is modern high speed WiFi which I happily stream movies over.

move to screened (STP) or CAT6 then your into a much higher skill needs for termination, if you can not terminate the cables properly you will likely actually be worse off than using CAT5e or even telecom cable..

Now ask yourself this, without access to a proper very expensive Network analyser - cost circa £5k+ for CAT6 capable unit, - how on earth will you ever know you have made the best connections for your more expensive investment, and which if not all are below standard - even if you were to use CAT5e?

You mention in an earlier post about fishing cables through existing lateral noggins within partition walls, these holes will likely have mains cables passed through them, making it against both building and electrical regs to mix high and low voltage potentials within the same containment, that apart you need 18" of separation for cable's that are run parallel with mains cables, or you will get induced interference.

Well now, I'm here to learn that's why I haven't laid or even bought any cables first. As I am sure throughout the thread you have seen how sure I actually want to be before I actually do anything regardless of what it is. In fact the whole cable thing will no doubt be done last whilst I still map the route the wires are going to take in my head.

I am by no means experienced as I am sure you are. But the amount of people and threads I have explain that there are quite a few people out there like myself and unlike you.

Put it this way would you call me out on the fact that I have flat Cat5e less than 5mm away from my extension lead? That by the way is literally coiled beside it? As I am sure there are plenty of other homes in the UK the same way if not worse.

I always was from the start hat putting the network cable beside the power cable in the stud wall would have been an issue, but alas my inexperience told me that it would be better off to ask on here first.


Regardless of that. Here's an update:

So the Appleby back boxes came (1 double, 1 single and a metal back box for the hall way) around £1.50 in total. Not bad . . . apart for the fact that Mr Royal Mail decided to leave the parcel at my front door.

Might need to get another dual and single back box - the dual for a double power socket in the cupboard. The single for a plate that has bristles on - that way I an feed the cables through that (some modification to the appleby dry wall box of course) and should minimise the dust falling into the cupboard and potentially being sucked into my NAS, Switch etc.

Talking of switches, the net gear switch mentioned earlier on in this thread has been bought and should be with me either tomorrow or Thursday if DPD don't send it to my neighbours . . . .

No point in showing you pictures of the plastic and metal back boxes,. I will however show a few pictures of the switch when it comes.

Next however will be the cabinet. Im being extra cautious here due to the factor that when buying a cheap computer case you can get that annoying vibration noise - would like to avoid that.

Then after that's bought, I'll need to curb my spending due to a short holiday coming up soon.

[blankscreen]

And likewise i am here ti teach!

Read what i write, you don't have any proper analyser, you don't have any training, you don't have any network cabling experience, without which with all due respects - your 'winging it' no matter how much you read or ask here!.

The sensible advice already given by me stands on its merits i.e. use CAT5e stop driving yourself into the ground - or spend £6k on a network analyser which even then you won't know how to read - simple's.

I also instal security systems, the times i deal (patiently) with those who want ti run their while house and life on it - until i point out the facts and the costs!

[DavidT]

Thousands of homes have utp cabling installed either by themselves or by an electrical engineer and don't use network analyzers. They just install the cable the easiest and neatest way possible, do a quick test to an online speed test website or perform a file transfer from one pc to another and providing they get good results they are happy.

We are talking about relatively short runs of cable in the average home so no need to over complicate matters.

David

[blankscreen]

Originally Posted by DavidT

Thousands of homes have utp cabling installed either by themselves or by an electrical engineer and don't use network analyzers. They just install the cable the easiest and neatest way possible, do a quick test to an online speed test website or perform a file transfer from one pc to another and providing they get good results they are happy.

We are talking about relatively short runs of cable in the average home so no need to over complicate matters.

David

And i often make very good money by going in to sort them out afterwards .

but at least trained electricians should know the current building regs, and also minimum separation from mains sources as well as not to kink the cable or ignore minimum radius on cable bends - i emphasis 'should'.

An experienced qualified electrician will also hide cables in a neat and safe way (hopefully!), very common for the sparks company to run the cables and call in a '12 volt jockey' like me to commission and certify, as generally they do not like our bits of cotton wire and labour cost of a trade not trained in another trade is not viable, especially if there are problems later.

to the o/p, there are many references to structured cabling design, and the logic used behind it. you will often find the sockets and patch panels are given two colour codes. 286a (american). and 286b (british) either will work as long as you keep to one or other standard throughout, but best to use the British (B) colour code

[Ian932]

Originally Posted by blankscreen

286a (american). and 286b (british) either will work as long as you keep to one or other standard throughout, but best to use the British (B) colour code

It's 568a and 568b, but I'm sure such an expert knew that

[BaileyBob]

Originally Posted by Ian932

It's 568a and 568b, but I'm sure such an expert knew that

I think they did have an old standard similar to the 268 type but that was a long time ago!! But not 100%.
The a and b standard do not denote America/British, they are just code to let yout know the pinout and make the standard simple to understand get. If you have standard A at one end of the cable and standard B at the other you have a crossover cable! Hence crossing over of standards!! I think they may use the A standard in America but it doesn't stand for America!!!! Correct me if im wrong!