Quote:
Originally Posted by JagoPlasma you said it was simple but i could hardly understand the terms you were using |
Once the wheel is off, the brake callipers are held on by two large bolts, usually requiring a 16mm (ish) socket to remove. You can then slide the whole calliper away from the brake disc and hub.
Under the bonnet there is a plastic bottle which contains the reserve fluid used for the hydraulic systems of the car (brakes and clutch). When pushing the piston in the calliper back to its starting position you need to remove the cap off this 'fluid reservoir' to allow the release of the pressure due to the movement of the fluid back through the pipework.
The old pads will be going in the bin, so it doesn't matter if they get further damaged, so they can be used to push the piston back using a pair of adjustable (plumbers) pliers. Then pop them out.
The new pads need some grease applying to ensure they move freely and to prevent a little vibration which usually result in a squealing noise. Copper slip (grease) is usually preferred as it can handle the heat better than normal grease, but there are some new substances marketed by brake manufacturers too. This can be applied everywhere on the new pad EXCEPT the face of the pad which contacts the disc. Obviously braking systems work better with friction and lubricating the friction surfaces might prove dangerous.
Once the new pads are in, relocate over the disc and refit the 2x calliper bolts, replace the fluid res lid and give the pedal a couple of pumps to push the pistons and pads to meet the disc. I usually do this with the engine running so the servo is operating.
Some cars don't even need the calliper removing. My old Subaru was a simple case of removing a wire clip, two pins, push back the pistons and pop out the pads. Slide in the new, relocate the pins and pop the wire retainer back on. The only tool needed apart from the jack and wheel brace was a pair of pliers, and I could do both sides on my driveway in under 20 minutes.