[Mumid]

Suninho thanks mate - will try that and post up a full calibration, hopefully later tonight

[Alan CD]

Originally Posted by Mumid

What I do is take photographs of every page in the SM, then if i change it I can easily go back. Updating the firmware also makes the SM go back to default settings so that is always a decent fail safe. However, there are certain options in the SM that can mess your tv up if going into them such as 'Calibration'.

Hi Mumid. How may pages are there in the SM?

Also, besides 'Calibration', what other pages or headings are dangerous to enter?

[jotanar]

Originally Posted by Mumid

...When using the SM only use up and down arrows, never use left and right to try and go forward and back, instead use OK and Return. Left and right is used to action the control. As long as you are hugely carefull you are ok to change the offsets and stuff in the SM...

Then to change a offset would be up down arrows to the parameter and then OK and then to change arrows left and right?

Thanks!

[Mumid]

Well I have not been in every single page only the ones I need to go in but there are to my knowledge the following:

Main Page - this has panel on time (this gets reset when flashing firmware) and it has firmware details. It links to the following pages:

1) Option Table (Services) - this links to a single page, only thing i have tried changing in here is 'Gamma' - wouldnt recommend changing anything else.

2) WB Adjust - This links to a seperate sub menu

Calibration (DO NOT TOUCH THIS)
White Balance - lets you change the default white balance for the mode that is selected in the Movie WB menu - Dynamic, Cool1 is the default
EPA Standard - this has picture settings such as sharpness etc but have never changed anything in here as im not quite sure how it relates to the settings.
Movie WB - this lets you change the White Balance for the different picture modes by changing the 'Mode' option. It also shows you what the default offsets and gains are for all the different modes, but only lets you change the one that is selected under Mode and Colour Tone.

3) Information - never used this

4) Advanced menu - needs a code to enter '0000' - not sure whats in here but according to Suninho there is an option to turn off the auto dimming on firmware 1015.

[Mumid]

Originally Posted by jotanar

Then to change a offset would be up down arrows to the parameter and then OK and then to change arrows left and right?

Thanks!

Correct and then 'return' when your done. Be very very careful if attempting this though fella.

[jotanar]

Originally Posted by Mumid

4) Advanced menu - needs a code to enter '0000' - not sure whats in here but according to Suninho there is an option to turn off the auto dimming on firmware 1015.

When you said auto dimming it means the images auto fades under some circunstances?

Btw guys, I have discover an issue in my system, for HD sources connected to the HDMI inputs, when Just Scan is selected for the size, it appears in the right side of the screen a thin white ray from time to time, just like if it were refreshing...Please check your systems...

On the other hand, I have been reading a lot and it seems many users prefers the firmware 1007.2 as the best, even better than 1011.2 and current 1015. What do you think of this?

Thanks!

[Mumid]

Originally Posted by jotanar

When you said auto dimming it means the images auto fades under some circunstances?

Btw guys, I have discover an issue in my system, for HD sources connected to the HDMI inputs, when Just Scan is selected for the size, it appears in the right side of the screen a thin white ray from time to time, just like if it were refreshing...Please check your systems...

On the other hand, I have been reading a lot and it seems many users prefers the firmware 1007.2 as the best, even better than 1011.2 and current 1015. What do you think of this?

Thanks!

On firmware 1015, there is an auto dimming that is always on (it can not be turned off in the user menu) - it turns down the backlight when the picture is mostly dark. According to Suninho this can be turned off in the SM via the advanced menu.

You can resolve that line in just scan mode mate, when you pick just scan, use the arrows on your remote to move the picture so that line is no longer visible.

I personally think that firmware 1015 is the best but the major issue with it is the auto dimming which makes it impossible to do a proper calibration, that is why I am currently on 1011.2. However, I am going to try and turn off auto dimming on 1015 and calibrate with that later.

[suninho]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Suninho thanks mate - will try that and post up a full calibration, hopefully later tonight

Sure thing mate

keep us posted on those settings...i'll come by tonight to see them

[INs4NiTY]

Hey

Just wondering who's settings would be best for my 46" A656? Mostly for Xbox 360, PS3, Blu-Ray movies & SD Sky?
For gaming is it right to turn off motion plus & 100mhz unless I'm playing fast paced fps?

Thanks

[youngsyp]

Originally Posted by INs4NiTY

Hey

Just wondering who's settings would be best for my 46" A656? Mostly for Xbox 360, PS3, Blu-Ray movies & SD Sky?
For gaming is it right to turn off motion plus & 100mhz unless I'm playing fast paced fps?

Thanks

Only you can decide what is best for you as, you're the one watching your panel in your viewing environment!

Paul

[JU007]

Originally Posted by youngsyp

Hi Jay,

Welcome to the forum.

From your 100% reading, I'd assume you have your backlight level quite high... Maybe at level '6' ?!
That should be the first place to consider a change, to boost contrast ratio. I have mine set at 3, and contrast at 98. If you're watching the TV in a pitch black room, that level will be ideal. You can then trun the backlight up when viewing in brighter conditions
Another point to look at is how you're calculating your target brightness level. To get a nice gamma response, you should take your 100% cd/m2 figure and multiply it by 0.0065. That will give you the cd/m2 level you should set brightness to, using a 10% window. You'll need to go back and forth a few times to get that right. Then adjust the 'Gamma' level to get your 2.22 average gamma.
Let us know how you get on.

Paul

P.s. I realised whilst watching Speed Racer yesterday that the brightness level was a tad low. So, I re-adjusted it to 48. Although this is barely perceivable with my eye, the contrast ratio dropped to around 1800:1. That's about what I've been achieving with the my Eye-One sensor. The blacks are still inky though but, I'd expect shadow detail to be slightly improved. It also help reduce some of the delta errors in the greyscale at the lower levels.

Thanks mate :D

I actually got the contrast ratio up to the 2000:1 range by changing the HDMI black setting from 'normal' to 'low'!

However, recently a friend noticed that the blacks on my set don't quite look black but rather 'purpley', on closer inspection I had to agree. In the past I noticed the image deteriorate (developing a purple tinge) when shifting left/right by several degrees or just standing up but I dismissed that as a property of all LCDs. I viewed the same model as mine on a shop floor yesterday and it quickly became apparent that was not the case - my set suffers from the dreaded purple haze! The same friend also noticed slight clouding (which I suspected) and uneven panel lighting!

Not quite sure what to do now other than speak with the vendor for a solution. I had a brief search on the net for a potential fixe but other than a few suggestion about fiddling with the service menu I could find none

regards,

Jay

[Mumid]

Where is the 'dynamic dim' option in the advanced menu in the SM??

These are the options in my advance menu

MTK8226
Option Block
SOUND
YC Delay
Adjust
Bus Stop
Defect Log

The last two sound interesting!! Havnt got a clue what any of these do though and dont want to action any of them for that reason.

[youngsyp]

Originally Posted by JU007

Thanks mate :D

I actually got the contrast ratio up to the 2000:1 range by changing the HDMI black setting from 'normal' to 'low'!

However, recently a friend noticed that the blacks on my set don't quite look black but rather 'purpley', on closer inspection I had to agree. In the past I noticed the image deteriorate (developing a purple tinge) when shifting left/right by several degrees or just standing up but I dismissed that as a property of all LCDs. I viewed the same model as mine on a shop floor yesterday and it quickly became apparent that was not the case - my set suffers from the dreaded purple haze! The same friend also noticed slight clouding (which I suspected) and uneven panel lighting!

Not quite sure what to do now other than speak with the vendor for a solution. I had a brief search on the net for a potential fixe but other than a few suggestion about fiddling with the service menu I could find none

regards,

Jay

You can get rid of the 'purple haze' with the correct picture settings.
I'd give a few of the settings in this thread a try and see how they change the picture.

Clouding will reduce with time and again, can be minimised with the correct settings.

And what firmware are you currently using ? I thought that made a difference ?!
Paul

[suninho]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Where is the 'dynamic dim' option in the advanced menu in the SM??

These are the options in my advance menu

MTK8226
Option Block
SOUND
YC Delay
Adjust
Bus Stop
Defect Log

The last two sound interesting!! Havnt got a clue what any of these do though and dont want to action any of them for that reason.

I think it is in adjust! Dyn Dim.

By the way when i whent there it was set to off but i turn it to On then Off to see if there was diference and i noticed the picture become more bright or dark! i left it bright since it should be that way

try it yourself to see mate.

[Mumid]

Thanks mate.

Ps Calibrated settings now up for firmware 1015 - page 99.

[youngsyp]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Thanks mate.

Ps Calibrated settings now up for firmware 1015 - page 99.

Nice work matey.

I reckon if you sort that red clipping between 90 -100% and the blue clipping at 80 -100%, you could adjust the rest of the greyscale to get all the errors, from 20-100%, comfortably under 2...

I know to get them to stop clipping on mine, I had to adjust contrast down to around 85 and so I needed to up the backlight level to get decent 100% luminance figures. And that in turn gave a nasty dip in blue response between 10 and 30%.
It seems the other size panels behave quite differently to the 52" so, you may have more luck than me ?!

Keep up the good work mate.

Paul

[leugeboy007]

Originally Posted by jotanar

When you said auto dimming it means the images auto fades under some circunstances?

Btw guys, I have discover an issue in my system, for HD sources connected to the HDMI inputs, when Just Scan is selected for the size, it appears in the right side of the screen a thin white ray from time to time, just like if it were refreshing...Please check your systems...

On the other hand, I have been reading a lot and it seems many users prefers the firmware 1007.2 as the best, even better than 1011.2 and current 1015. What do you think of this?

Thanks!

I tried all the firmware and went back to 1007.2. It looks the best on my sky+ and xbox 360 with games and HD DVD films.

[suninho]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Thanks mate.

Ps Calibrated settings now up for firmware 1015 - page 99.

Did you make it? Is it turned off on yours to?

[Mumid]

Originally Posted by youngsyp

Nice work matey.

I reckon if you sort that red clipping between 90 -100% and the blue clipping at 80 -100%, you could adjust the rest of the greyscale to get all the errors, from 20-100%, comfortably under 2...

I know to get them to stop clipping on mine, I had to adjust contrast down to around 85 and so I needed to up the backlight level to get decent 100% luminance figures. And that in turn gave a nasty dip in blue response between 10 and 30%.
It seems the other size panels behave quite differently to the 52" so, you may have more luck than me ?!

Keep up the good work mate.

Paul

Thanks fella. Will give that a try.

Originally Posted by suninho

Did you make it? Is it turned off on yours to?

Not yet mate! Im a bit nervous fiddling in that advanced menu... but will give it a try shortly!

P.s have you tried the settings yet? If so how do they work out for you?

[suninho]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Thanks fella. Will give that a try.



Not yet mate! Im a bit nervous fiddling in that advanced menu... but will give it a try shortly!

P.s have you tried the settings yet? If so how do they work out for you?

Go in and just change the Dyn Dim and nothing else, if you don't go in the rifht section the first time just hit Return on the controler and nothing will happen bad I hade to do the same to find out where it was in the first place mate.

Yes i have tried them out just know and really like them GREAT SETTINGS xD,your SM settings are the same as mine so chears thanks very much

[Mumid]

OK mate, I tried it and it worked.

It was set to 'off' by default. So i switched it to 'on' and then back to 'off' and exited. I have done a new calibration for firmware 1015 with dyna dim off - see page 99.

Paul - I had the exact same problem as you, tried turning the contrast down, it helped fix the errors at the top end but totally screwed with the bottom end with a huge rise in blue response at 30% IRE. Anyway, see what you think to the new calibration with auto dimming switched off on firmware 1015

[jotanar]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Thanks mate.

Ps Calibrated settings now up for firmware 1015 - page 99.

Do you think is a good idea to set the SM like the one you posted as yours a couple of pages ago and them apply the settings you posted for 1015?

Did you set the dimming on and off in the same "session" or you exit the SM between ON and OFF?

[Mumid]

I dont think its a good idea to change the default SM settings - I only posted them so people can compare theres to mine to see if my calibration might be close for them.

I changed it from off to on back to off all in the same session yes mate.

[jotanar]

Originally Posted by Mumid

I dont think its a good idea to change the default SM settings - I only posted them so people can compare theres to mine to see if my calibration might be close for them.

I changed it from off to on back to off alll in the same session yes mate.

So do you think effects would be good if I just apply the setting you posted having some different parameter in the SM config by default?

I will change the Auto Dimming and then apply the settings and let's see mate!

On the other hand, are you going to post some SD calibration stuff for the 1015 firm?

Thanks again mate!

[jotanar]

Originally Posted by Mumid

...You can resolve that line in just scan mode mate, when you pick just scan, use the arrows on your remote to move the picture so that line is no longer visible...

So is this a known issue???

[Mumid]

Originally Posted by jotanar

So do you think effects would be good if I just apply the setting you posted having some different parameter in the SM config by default?

I will change the Auto Dimming and then apply the settings and let's see mate!

On the other hand, are you going to post some SD calibration stuff for the 1015 firm?

Thanks again mate!

Impossible to say mate. Best option is to try all the different settings from me, viol8r and paul and see which ones you find best and take it from there. You can always tweak them more yourself but they should give you a decent baseline to work from.

I will be posting SD settings soon, just need to work the best way out for doing them.

Originally Posted by jotanar

So is this a known issue???

Its not really an issue mate - you just need to align the picture properly on your screen.

[youngsyp]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Paul - I had the exact same problem as you, tried turning the contrast down, it helped fix the errors at the top end but totally screwed with the bottom end with a huge rise in blue response at 30% IRE. Anyway, see what you think to the new calibration with auto dimming switched off on firmware 1015

That's really odd...

A while ago I noticed that a chap who had his A656 ISF calibrated had his contrast at 85 and back light at 5. I know the service menu settings were changed on this calibration too but, I wonder how the ISF chap got round the issue both you and I haev found ?!

Paul

[jotanar]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Its not really an issue mate - you just need to align the picture properly on your screen.

Ok, the line dissapears when aligning the screen, but in origin, why is this happening, do you know?

[youngsyp]

Originally Posted by Mumid

Its not really an issue mate - you just need to align the picture properly on your screen.

I wonder if there's a setting in the SM where you can realign the screen permanently for a specific input?!

Having said that, I noticed that on my Blu-ray input, the aspect ratio 'defaults' back to 16:9 when I've been in the SM and come back out. Setting this to 'Just Scan' by default would be useful too!

Paul

[Mumid]

Originally Posted by jotanar

Ok, the line dissapears when aligning the screen, but in origin, why is this happening, do you know?

Well its probably just the device your using - not sure why though. On most other tvs there would probably be overscan so you wouldnt see it. I dont see it as a major issue though really because you can just align it yourself.