Fibre optic star lighting

[Mr. Wilby]

Hello all.

I'm in need of some fibre optic units suitable for creating a star ceiling.

My basic requirements:

- Must be possible to switch on/off via lutron graffik eye, ideally without needing an additional lutron module.

- Must support different diameter of fibres to create the effect of different sized stars

- Must support flexibility in terms of cable lengths (perhaps custom lengths).

Regarding the first point, I actually have one of these kicking around that I bought off Ebay last year:

http://www.lutron.com/techinfo/Insta...40216ENG_1.pdf

I am wondering if I might be able to buy an LED-based unit and then use this GRX-AV (in conjunction with the Graffik Eye) to simply switch the LED unit on or off (I don't really think I need to dim it as I will probably just turn the stars off during a film for fear of reducing contrast...). I must read up a bit more on the GRX-AV to see if that really is viable.

Alternatively, I could just go directly via the GE, but then I am not sure if I need an additional low voltage interface (most Fibre Optic light units tend to be between 50 and 100watts ?).

Has anybody bought anything similar in the past or had any experience with interfacing a fibre optic light unit with a Lutron Graffik Eye?

[Quantas]

Hi,

I have just installed a star ceiling into my cinema room, (you can check the result out from the thread at the bottom). I used the Varilight dimming switch option. Something you need to consider is the suitability of your system to the transformer within the light box. This caused me no end of grief and several lost days trying to figure out a way around the problem.

I finally managed it by wiring in the light circuit through a normal socket and pluggin in the device through a wireless remote controlled socket.
My ceiling now works completely remotely if I wish or by the touch varilight controls on the wall. I can stop the motor remotely to display which colour I prefer or allow it to rotate and go through the range of colours the twinkle wheel has.

The fibres I used were of two sizes 0.75mm and 1mm and they definitely give the impression of different coloured stars, especially if I dim the light source. This almost gives a 3D impression. Overall I am more than delighted with the result and would urge you to complete your ceiling you will not be disappointed. I made many mistakes which took time to get around, and I would only be too glad to point you away from those.Please feel free to contact me if you require any further help.

Regards,

Russ

[Mr. Wilby]

Hi Russ,

Thanks for your reply & offer of help. I'd definitely like to pick your brains.

Yes, this transformer issue is the one that most concerns me and what I was hinting about in my original post with regards to how to interface the lutron with the light unit. Most non-LED units, from what I've seen, are usually 50->100w. I'm not sure whether the lutron will "get on" with these very well as it seems to require additional "modules" to handle non-line voltages.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you source your unit(s) from? Is it an LED or halogen unit? TIA!

[Quantas]

The unit is from Starscape, and is a Halogen type, it is shipped as not suitable for dimming but that is because the power to the motor is supplied by a transformer due to the very low power requirement (3W). Which the power requirement it self is an issue you may well have as the varilight have a constant 6W of power to them for the memory and to allow you to use an IR remote. Also the transformer is not suitable for a IR dimming souce, mechanical yes, IR no. However, you can put in a second supply, by raiding an old PC, which I acquired from the local car boot for the princely sum of ten bob and getting the female three pin connection. Split the light source and power that independently, again if you look back at my thread there is a pic of the internal workings of the light box it is very simple to do. Again the main problem was the motor, as I previously explained due to the residual current in the circuit there was sufficient for the motor to run and as such it would not turn off. The way I got around it was to use the IR sockets which provide sufficient resistance and the motor now works when I want it to. If you prefer to call me PM with your number and I will give you a clearer explanation.

[Mr. Wilby]

Hmm, just re-read the first post on the AVS Graffik Eye thread and that refreshed my memory a bit. I bought my GE in 2007 (started construction of my cinema 12 months ago... slow going due to other high priority household jobs!) and had forgotten that each zone can be configured to be a simple 'switch' rather than dimmable. That's probably what I want in this instance.

So most likely I can get away with an LED unit and I must just configure the GE zone so that it's a simple switch. I then plug the LED light unit into a socket, and have the socket wired into the Zone output on the GE. Configure the Zone as 'switch' instead of dimmable, and that should be it?

Sounds too simple, so I must be misunderstanding something!

[Quantas]

Having no experience of that type of unit I would find it hard to comment however, I have to say that your light won't be dimmable, and I personnally think you get a better effect if the light is dimmed, it gives a more depth and 3D effect when dimmed.

[Mr. Wilby]

Hmm, cheers Russ. I had figured I wouldn't need it to be dimmed, but in light of your comment above, I've changed my mind :-)

In that case, it's back to halogens... and I'm back to researching whether I need an additional lutron electronic low voltage interface in order to dim a halogen transformer!

[Quantas]

Like I said please feel free to contact me I will tell you how in more detail how I managed it. My problem did stump Varilight themselves who said it couldn't be done, well I sat on my thinking radiator for a while and it sort of came to me. Not being an electrical guru I was well chuffed.

[pixelbricks]

you should post pics once you're done, sounds good.

[knifyspoony]

This sounds awesome.