Someone check my methods (wall mounting a 60" plasma)

[EVH]

Hey all,

Here is my proposed method that I'll be using to mount my plasma when it arrives. I just have 1 problem, so if anyone can see a better way of doing things, chime in!

Right, the wall is dot and dab plasterboard (40mm), breeze block, cavity and then the second layer of breeze block. The problem is we have the main electric feed coming in from outside to the house directly behind where I want to wall-mount the plasma. I am 99% certain that the feed runs in the cavity. I've checked using a cable detector and there's no constant "flatline" tone, but it does beep (which backs up my theory).

Can anyone see a problem drilling in to the first layer of the breeze (not going through to the second layer of block) and hanging the TV using 6x M8 rawlbolts with long bolts. I will probably cut out the plasterboard to the size of the bracket then pad out the gap with MDF/chipboard which I will also no-more-nails to the breeze behind.

Anyway, enough explaining.. I've mocked up a picture (cross-section) to explain what I'm on about a bit better.

Anyone see anything immediately dodgy? I'll probably pin a layer of lead to the MDF to help shield from the interference, but I could always stand-mount the TV if this seems a bit dodgy.

I'll post a step-by-step guide when I've done it.. as there were a lot of results in the searches I did, but nothing covering a TV this size or the electric feed problem.

Thanks

[snips]

hi i have fitted many heavy items in my job on this construction and have found the best way is to cut out a slot in the plasterboard and refill with one coat plaster pushing the plaster right into the gap hope this helps. Chris

[nacmacfeegle]

I might be tempted to use rawl studs as opposed to rawl bolts, if you use long bolts the bolt might jack the expansion shield out of the hole if the bolt bottoms out.
I think they are called projecting bolts, but they are the ones that have the expansion cone fixed to the threaded part.

This way you have one nut that expands the rawl shield and locks it in place, then you would have the plasma bracket sandwiched between two more nuts, and you can adjust the stand off from the breeze block to the plasma bracket using these 2 nuts.

If you just use a standard bolt, and it doesn't bottom out in the hole, you are relying on the bolt compressing the plaster board and the bracket, which might work, but its not really ideal.

[EVH]

Originally Posted by nacmacfeegle

I might be tempted to use rawl studs as opposed to rawl bolts, if you use long bolts the bolt might jack the expansion shield out of the hole if the bolt bottoms out.
I think they are called projecting bolts, but they are the ones that have the expansion cone fixed to the threaded part.

This way you have one nut that expands the rawl shield and locks it in place, then you would have the plasma bracket sandwiched between two more nuts, and you can adjust the stand off from the breeze block to the plasma bracket using these 2 nuts.

If you just use a standard bolt, and it doesn't bottom out in the hole, you are relying on the bolt compressing the plaster board and the bracket, which might work, but its not really ideal.

I can't find the exact fixing you are referring to (link?) but I'll be using (800mm x M10)

I'll use your double-nut method though.. so, the bracket is clamped between a set of nuts?

Sound better?

[nacmacfeegle]

Hi Mate, try here...
RAWLPLUG

M10 comes with a variety of stud lengths, from 75 to 140 mm. You may have to trim the length of the stud to suit your exact requirements.

The advantage of using this type over the bolt and two nuts would be that it is probably a lot easier to assemble, and adjust.

For what its worth, I've seen this style of Rawl fixing in B&Q stores in Aberdeen.

I've used this style of fixing detail to tie down and level large machinery such as pumps, piping systems, etc..

[EVH]

Originally Posted by nacmacfeegle

Hi Mate, try here...
RAWLPLUG

M10 comes with a variety of stud lengths, from 75 to 140 mm. You may have to trim the length of the stud to suit your exact requirements.

The advantage of using this type over the bolt and two nuts would be that it is probably a lot easier to assemble, and adjust.

For what its worth, I've seen this style of Rawl fixing in B&Q stores in Aberdeen.

I've used this style of fixing detail to tie down and level large machinery such as pumps, piping systems, etc..

Actually, I went digging and found that I have those laying around

I'll be using M10-equivalent threaded bar (as it's easier to modify to the right length) with the sleeve anchors. Essentially, keeping the bolts to one side.

Pictures to come soon, TV is due on Wednesday!