DIY Screen with variable masking on all four sides

[Bert Coules]

I raised this over on the Screens forum but perhaps here is a better spot: has anyone built a fixed screen with variable masking on all four sides?

I know that Constant Image Height (which obviously only requires moveable side masking) is the Coming Thing, but until I can get to that particular goal I'd like to be able to accommodate a wide variety of heights and widths.

Apart from actually arranging the mechanisms (which is surely doable) the main problem, it seems to me, is that one set of masks have to be located slightly away from the projection surface in order that they can clear the other set. Doesn't that lead to shadows on the image?

Many thanks,

Bert

[kdr1066]

Hi Bert,

I'm planning to attempt to make a screen that can be used for 16:9 and 2.37:1, and possibly 2.35:1 as well. The screen is going on the wall in my loft, which of course is wider at the bottom than the top due to the sloping roof, so I'm going to make the screen the same shape and mask it as required. The idea being I can have a 10' wide scope screen for movies and an 8' wide 16:9 for the football.

My limited DIY skills might force me to settle on a basic rectangular scope screen, but the slope of the roof will accommodate a higher (but narrower) screen so I'm going to give it a go. It's an extra foot or so of viewing area across the screen so I think it's worth trying.

I'm planning on using black velvet fabric, stuck around wooden batons at the top and bottom of the screen. The sides and top for the scope screen will be the same velvet, but with an edge overlapped around that plastic coated wound wire you can screw hooks and eyes into the ends of. I'll fix batons around the screen to hook the masking 'curtains' on to. I'm hoping the wire will be taut enough to give a nice straight edge, but without creating shadows.

I think the top mask for the scope screen might be a problem, as it'll be shaped like a roof and at 10' wide it might be difficult to get a taut edge. And of course I'll need to remove it when I want the 16:9.

The key is whether the wire is taut enough to give a crisp edge, I'll find out I suppose

[Bert Coules]

That's an ingenious idea. I like the notion of using the shape of the roof to give you more flexibility, and the curtain-spring setup certainly sounds as if it it ought to work as long as you can keep enough tautness.

I hope you'll post the results when it's done.

Bert

[albriscoe]

Originally Posted by kdr1066

I'm planning on using black velvet fabric, stuck around wooden batons at the top and bottom of the screen.

Hi kdr

I`ve thought of doing the same to make my screen frame but once the velvet is glued/fixed to the wooden frame how do you intend to fasten it to the wall.

also as Bert says please post the results with photo`s if possible

cheers Allan

[kdr1066]

I've just finished undercoating the loft, so I've a little way to go before I can post pictures of the screen, although the screen fabric is ordered

I will of course post pictures when it's finished.

As for fixing the velvet frame, I was just planning to screw it to the wall. It's a stud wall, and I made a note of where the batons are before the plasterers came in, so hopefully I'll be able to find them again. And if I use black screws they should be unobtrusive enough. If I can see them I'll just stick a bit of velvet over them. Which is also what I'll do with the hook and eye fixings for the curtains, either that or paint them black.

If I can't get the hook/eye wire taut enough I have an alternative which is metal rods with a hook (or eye) at each end. They might be better anyway, but not as easy so I'll probably give the wire a go first. The main problem will be my sewing skills to make the curtains with a sleeve on the side to thread the wire through, should be fun...

[inzaman]

Hi Bert see here

[Bert Coules]

Inzaman, thanks for that link. I remember seeing that setup quite some time ago, so it's good to have it pinpointed again. A beautiful simple and elegant solution for top and bottom masking, and I suppose the general principle could be extended to the side masks as well.

Bert