What size trunking did you use?

[UrbanSurvival]

Hi all,

Well the plasma is arriving on Friday but I'm stuck on hiding the cables in the walls. After looking at various threads some people have used 40mm pipe others have used trunking.

I need to run a power lead and component cable to a Pany PWD8, with some capacity for future cables. I was planning on putting 2 seperate channels in, power and data, but what size trunking would be big enough without having to knock the wall down? Can anyone let me know if it's a standard 'kettle lead' that comes with the plasma and what you have used.

It's a solid, external wall for reference. Any help very much appreciated.

Cheers,

[clockworks]

Try running the cables inside the cavity. Drill a hole at each end of the run, through the breeze block into the cavity. If the run is vertical, tie a weight to a piece of string, insert in the top hole, and use a wire hook to pull the string through the bottom hole. You can now pull your cables through, using the string.
Once you know that youve got clear access through the cavity, cut a recess for a backbox at each end, and finish off with with a drilled blanking plate.

[UrbanSurvival]

Cheers mate! hadn't thought of that one The thought of wrecking the lounge was turning me a funny colour. Out of interest, presuming I can run between the cavity, does the temperature difference (albeit small) have any impact on the cable?

[clockworks]

I wouldn't expect any problems from temperature differences. Aerial coax cables last for years, exposed to the elements on rooftops and chimney stacks.

A couple of things to be aware of if you run through the cavity. If you've got cavity insulation, this method won't work - I you are unsure, drill a small hole to start with, and check for the presence of expanded foam in the cavity.

In reasonably modern houses, the inner and outer leaves of the wall are held together with butterfly ties. If one of these is in the way, it can obstruct the cables. It might be worth getting a cheap metal detector (used for finding buried pipes, etc.) and avoiding the ties.

[rickyjohn]

Originally Posted by clockworks

Try running the cables inside the cavity. Drill a hole at each end of the run, through the breeze block into the cavity. If the run is vertical, tie a weight to a piece of string, insert in the top hole, and use a wire hook to pull the string through the bottom hole. You can now pull your cables through, using the string.
Once you know that youve got clear access through the cavity, cut a recess for a backbox at each end, and finish off with with a drilled blanking plate.

Hi - I'm about to do a similar thing (about to buy a 42" Hitach 7200).

Not being any good at DIY can I ask a few more questions :

1. What tools can/should I use to drill a hole through brickwork in to cavity?
2. I assume the instructions on the Plasma bracket will tell me whereabouts I should drill the hole in relation to the bracket and Tv so the hole is obscured by TV but not in the way of the bracket?
3. What do you mean by a 'backbox' at each end with a blanking plate?

[clockworks]

It depends what the inner wall is made of. Modern houses normally have concrete block inner walls, and brick outer walls. The newer concrete blocks are very easy to drill through, the older ones are a lot tougher.
You should be able to use a normal mains-powered electric drill and a masonry drill bit. Mark the outline of the hole you want to make, and drill a series of holes around the line with a 6mm masonry bit. You then chisel out the area inside the holes with a small bolster or cold chisel.

I've never fitted a TV wall mount, but they should come with a template for marking out the locations of holes. Where you put the hole for the cables will depend on where the sockets are on the back of the TV.

A backbox is a metal box, as used behind a mains socket or light switch. They are also known as plaster boxes. They are available in single and double sizes, and various depths. You'll find them on the same shelf as sockets and switches at B&Q, etc.
A blanking plate is a plain plate, like a light switch, but with no switch on it. You can drill whatever size hole you need, for the cables to poke through.
Specialist suppliers also do these plates with large holes in them, and brush strips (like draught excluder) to seal the hole.

If you use backboxes, cut a recess in the wall to fit the box flush, then cut a smaller hole through this recess for the cables to reach the cavity. Make sure that the cable hole lines up with one of the circular "knockout" panels on the backbox.