Sound Proofing - the end result

[Lizard]

Well i have finally finished my new room and moved in, and after all the work of soundproofing i can happly say never again (well not for a couple of years anyhow )

The end result? well its not prefect, but then i knew it never would be, as i was not able to build a room within a room as it would have been to much weight on the floor. However i have managed to knock 30 to 40 db of the nosie that comes out of the room so i'm happy enough (havent test bass yet) and would just like to say thanks to all the people who gave me help and advice on here .
Lizard

[mattym]

sounds good Lizard, did you manage to get that problem of footsteps on the floor sorted out?

[Jon Boy]

Good news matey , now come on dont be shy , get the camera out

Jon

[inzaman]

Originally Posted by Jon Boy

now come on dont be shy , get the camera out

Yes definitely , we need pictures

[Lizard]

Here you are, though there not the best pics in the world as i only have a camara phone.

More importantly though i finished setting up and testing my room yesterday (hence the delay in replying) and i really do have to say thank you to Mattym as a result.
Green Glue really does work , whilst i have not been able to totally stop mid to high range sound from leaving the room, not an drop of LF sound does leave the room though. I was at first very skepitical about GG and its a #### to work with, but my god after hearing the end results i will diffenatly use it again.

[Jon Boy]

Good work lizard , looks like a nice set-up mate!

Whats happeneing with that projector shelf? Are you going to add more shelves and put your dvds there?

Jon

[Lizard]

Originally Posted by Jon Boy

Whats happeneing with that projector shelf? Are you going to add more shelves and put your dvds there?

Thanks

I cant as i sit directly below the PJ shelf. The reason i put such large bars in was because at the time i was unsure of what height i could get away with, now that i know however at some later date (not yet still unpacking ) i will cut the surples hunging bars off to tidy it up and make a proper shelf to replace the tempory 1/2 plywood i'm using at the mo.

[Jon Boy]

Thank god for that lolol at the moment its the only part of the room that lets the rest down!

IMO - i'd go for a shelf like this

£12.58 from ikea...

[mattym]

Very glad to hear it!

lovely room!

Originally Posted by Lizard

Here you are, though there not the best pics in the world as i only have a camara phone.

More importantly though i finished setting up and testing my room yesterday (hence the delay in replying) and i really do have to say thank you to Mattym as a result.
Green Glue really does work , whilst i have not been able to totally stop mid to high range sound from leaving the room, not an drop of LF sound does leave the room though. I was at first very skepitical about GG and its a #### to work with, but my god after hearing the end results i will diffenatly use it again.

hey Lizard, i'm glad you got some good results.

i would like to take a moment and share a thought about the mid/high frequency sound that is still escaping.

Usually, in real world applications, if a sound isolation situation has more mid/high than low frequency noise escaping, seals or flanking sound are the culprits.

I've attached a picture showing the effect of removing teh seals from a simple wood stud wall installed in a lab. it was wood studs, single drywall both sides, with fiberglass insulation. A 3rd line in the picture shows the effect of opening the doors of both test rooms (the doors opened into a large common room, creating a round-about open air path).

see how it's middle and high freq's that suffer? This wall is not damped and has very bad low-frequency performance, so even with the doors open, performance falls only a couple/few decibels below the wall itself. a higher performance wall would be hit ALOT harder at low frequencies by opening those doors, and probably wouldn't be any better than this poor-performance wall with the doors open.

the same can generally be said for outlet boxes, ductwork, and doors (including seals on the doors).

hope that helps you track it down if you're looking to further upgrade things

let me know, folks, if that made good sense or not.

Brian

[Lizard]

Hi Brain, thanks for the post it made perfect sense. ,as the walls of the room are battoned directly on the wall the results were never going to be perfect, Green Glue has certainly helped to stop the base from travelling through as i also added it between the plasterboard and wood battons to try and stop the flanking nosie.
I think the biggest facter though as to why i am still getting sound leakage is because i am really strugling to get an air tight seal around the door, and was wondering if anyone on here has any ideas?

[mattym]

you can buy seals for doors, i had a link to a good one a little while ago but i cant find it now....i will have another look

Originally Posted by Lizard

Hi Brain, thanks for the post it made perfect sense. ,as the walls of the room are battoned directly on the wall the results were never going to be perfect, Green Glue has certainly helped to stop the base from travelling through as i also added it between the plasterboard and wood battons to try and stop the flanking nosie.
I think the biggest facter though as to why i am still getting sound leakage is because i am really strugling to get an air tight seal around the door, and was wondering if anyone on here has any ideas?

zero international sells seals for doors that i have heard recommended by a large number of persons. don't know about UK sales. wait, here we go

from www.zerointernational.com

UNITED KINGDOM

ZERO SEAL SYSTEMS LTD
Unit 6 Ladford Covert
Seighford ST18 9QG
Email: sales@zeroplus.co.uk
Web Site: www.zeroplus.co.uk
Tel: 44-1785-282910
Fax: 44-1785-282498
Attn: Mr. Ken Drake or Mr. Mike Quinn


DIY soluations are also possible. One Eric Desart offered this advice on this page: http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopi...highlight=soap

Some tips to improve sealing of old doors (as well for heat as sound):

a) Open the door:
b) Paint the door edges of the door where they normally seal with
water in which dish washing soap is disolved.
c) Clean the door frame. Make sure it isn't naked wood, but varnished
or painted.
4) If dry use the edge in which door and door frame normally join as
guide for a sealing you make there with a heavy silicone stripe.
5) Now carefully close the door, pressing the door in the silicone
sealing.
6) Leave the silicone dry for 12 to 24 hours (let door closed for at
least 6 to 12 hours)
7) Open door and clean door itself to remove the dish washing soap.
8) Use a very sharp knife to cut away silicone which should have been
expanded too much.


I have seen vaseline also used in place of the dish soap. The purpose of the soap or vaseline is to get the silicone to only stick to one side so you dont' destroy the seal when opening the door the first time.

good luck,

Brian

[Lizard]

Thanks Brian , I have just given them a ring and they are posting there brochure off to me today. Will post again when it arrives.