Best windows for sound reduction/insulation?

[SecretSquirrel]

Hey all. I'm considering purchasing the flat I'm currently renting. The only negative is the traffic/train noise. The property currently has standard new build style windows and double glazing which don't seem to reduce the noise level that much.

What are the best/most effective double or triple glazed windows on the market for sound insulation/reduction?

From what I've read so far, triple glazing seems to have mixed reviews and the key factors are the thickness of the glass and the space between the panes.

Any recommendations for particular makes or models?

Thanks very much everyone.

[EVH]

It is dependant on the glass, the thickness of the spacer and if it's been filled with argon vs. air.

I would recommend a laminated unit, over a triple glazed solution

[SecretSquirrel]

Thanks, I'll work my way through that .pdf !

I see Velfac's top window for sound reduction is the Velfac 2+1. Anyone have any experience with this?

[Ted White]

Laminated glass is indeed the key for sound isolation. Thicker = more mass = more isolation. This may not be an available variable if the window is operational. I assume you want it to open?

Something to look at: Behind the trim moulding is an area where the plasterboard edge is. This gap between the edge of the plasterboard and the window frame can be a flanking path. While you're at it, you should fill / seal any gap there.

If an acoustic window is lacking in performance , it's often because of seal failure. A small tweak of a window seal can dramatically increase the performance.

[simonprr]

I was thinking the same kind of thing as Ted. Are they UPVC windows? Usually when they install UPVC windows they just stick on a strip of plastic around the window to cover the gap between the wall/plasterboard and window frame. It covers the gap well, but doesn't do much for sound proofing/insulation purposes. Fill this in with flexible sealant of some type.

Have you also considered secondary glazing? It's usually fitted near the edge of the window sill to give as much of a gap as possible. Means you loose your window sill though. I've found that this is pretty effective and I doubt it's that expensive, although I guess it depends on the size of your windows and whether they are a non standard size.

[Groover]

I consulted Pilkington about this, but with traffic noise in mind, not AV etc. They told me that sound waves need to be broken up across two different thicknesses, so the ideal route for a residential home in a double galzed unit is to laminate one of the glass panes. Offering say 8mm on one and the second laminated to 9/10mm should work.

[Ted White]

The concept is that resonance will be differential between two different thicknesses of glass, which is true. Laminated glass generally consists of two different thicknesses of glass laminated with an intermediate poly layer than does some amount of damping.

The Pilkington plan sounds good. Better if both finished panes were laminated, but 1 is good

[tonyrees687]

The gap between window frame and the wall is very important a lot of window companies fill this recess with a cheap expanding foam filler then cover the gap with a plastic moulding /the foam filler is not very good at suppressing sound either way
what i did was to fill the gap with a cement mixture with a binding agent pushing it in really well and then cover with a trim finished with a flexible sealer a bit more work a little bit more messy but from experience a whole lot quieter
regards tony

[deansocial]

Originally Posted by tonyrees687

The gap between window frame and the wall is very important a lot of window companies fill this recess with a cheap expanding foam filler then cover the gap with a plastic moulding /the foam filler is not very good at suppressing sound either way
what i did was to fill the gap with a cement mixture with a binding agent pushing it in really well and then cover with a trim finished with a flexible sealer a bit more work a little bit more messy but from experience a whole lot quieter
regards tony

much bette to fill with silicone and motor is not flexible and wont alow the upcv frame to expand and also will transmit more sound the silicone

[Ted White]

If the gap is 5mm or less, then seal with latex caulk or silicone. If more than 5mm you will need to think about a more massive material. If the gap is big, you're going to have a hard time filling up with caulk anyway.

The larger the gap, the more LF vibration is able to make it through. Therefore mass becomes a desired factor

[deansocial]

Originally Posted by Ted White

If the gap is 5mm or less, then seal with latex caulk or silicone. If more than 5mm you will need to think about a more massive material. If the gap is big, you're going to have a hard time filling up with caulk anyway.

The larger the gap, the more LF vibration is able to make it through. Therefore mass becomes a desired factor

anything upto 8-9mm can be filled with silicone anything above that and you should ot be rdering windows as you obviously cant use a tape measure. But if it is a larger gap then shove some backer rods in then seal

[RipMaster]

Originally Posted by SecretSquirrel

Thanks, I'll work my way through that .pdf !

I see Velfac's top window for sound reduction is the Velfac 2+1. Anyone have any experience with this?

I researched many of the "premium" mass window manufactures for my new place that is currently under construction: Anderson, Marvin, Velfac et al (in relative cost ascendence) They are all better at some things than others but to be honest I was rather disappointed in the overall product, and the cost did not seem to justify the solution. Especially as I had nearly 50m2 to glaze.

In the end the best solution, for what I needed at least, was to get a joiner to make the window frames and get a specialist glazer to install the glass. That way you have a solid frame which will be good for sound insulation and you can have as much control as you like over the design and glazing options. Worked out at about 60% of the cheapest quotation i got from the aforementioned brands after fitting costs and VAT were taken into account. Not bad considering all the frames are in hardwood. The mass made ones were in pine which could have an optional aluminum or vinyl. The underlying light pine frame was just flimsy and tacked together with industrial staples!

I did not looks specifically into sound proofing solutions, but I wanted the premium Pilkinton ranges for heat control and many of them are toughened panes due to being full height windows. Any of the specialist options could be applied including sound insulation if you went down the bespoke route I'm sure. You could even have then double glazed AND double laminated.

[Ted White]

If you can keep the window inoperable, then using the heaviest laminated glass you can get in a fixed frame is absolutely the way to go.