[ozthecoz]

Help please - i think i have a bit of a problem mounting a kef egg onto a hollow wall, and i mean hollow NOT dod and dab - just plasterboard with a vacant space behind it.

The piece of wall i need to attach the speaker to is just skimmed plasterboard as its the front part of a false ceiling leading into the porch.

The weight of the kef is 2kg/4.4lb (its a hts2001 sattelite).

After a bit of research ive seen some bolts called toggle bolts but cant seem to find them to buy in the uk - they look to me like they will do th etrick but can anybody suggest any other way or other types of bolts / attachments.

Unfortunatly this space is the only place i can have teh rear speaker so that it is in parralel to the other rear speaker.

Any ideas ?

Dave

[ozthecoz]

This is the bit of wall im on about - above teh door - speaker needs to be half way across.

[27neth]

Lots of cavity fixings inc toggle fixings at screwfix.

john.

[27neth]

The way i would fix the speaker is, cut a 2"x2" square out of the plasterboard with a padsaw (keep the piece you cut out) Then get a piece of 2x1 timber about 8" long. Put the 2x1 inside the hole you cut out and even it out on either side of the hole (fit a screw it the middle of the 2x1 so you can hold it) Then screw some drywall screws through your plasterboard wall in to the timber on either side of the hole. Then refit your small piece of plasterboard back in place, fill and paint.
You then have timber behind your wall to fit your speaker too.

John...

[ozthecoz]

Cheers John,

Think the addition of wood inside wouldnt be a bad idea.

[Badger0-0]

I'd suggest that's a bit OTT for a 2kg speaker

OP, just get some brown wall plugs and appropriate screws/drillbit mate.

Toggles are readily available at B&Q, Homebase or even your local Ironmongers, if you mess up with the wall plugs

[27neth]

brown wall plugs will get no grip into plasterboard.

john..

[Badger0-0]

I mount radiators (which are slightly more than 2kg ) and much heavier stuff with brown wallplugs for a living, so yes they will easily, but whatever, I'm not looking for an argument

As I said, toggles are available anywhere

[tract0rb0y]

Originally Posted by Badger0-0

I mount radiators (which are slightly more than 2kg ) and much heavier stuff with brown wallplugs for a living, so yes they will easily, but whatever, I'm not looking for an argument

As I said, toggles are available anywhere

Im not sure i would trust standard brown wallplugs straight into plasterboard, im sure this is not adequate for a normal installation?
Is this the standard method you use?

[27neth]

You hang radiators on to plasterboard with brown wall plugs ?

John...

[plant]

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by tract0rb0y

Im not sure i would trust standard brown wallplugs straight into plasterboard, im sure this is not adequate for a normal installation?
Is this the standard method you use?

Depends.

I currently use these speaker brackets;

Speaker Wall Brackets > Maplin

Note the two fixing holes and leverage,

I tried these on top of them;

XTZ | Bookshelf speakers • 93 WMT

The bracket bent but the plugs didn't move at all.
That's a 10kg speaker.
Trust me, brown plugs correctly fitted are plenty by miles

But as I've said, you can use toggles, if you're worried.

[MacReady]

My Kef eggs are mounted onto plasterboard with a hollow behind and I used special platserboard grip plugs from B&Q and they seem to have done the job. They are the ones that expand out in a T shape in the cavity.

The speakers have all been up for well over eight months now and not one is even slightly loose so I would give them a try.

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by 27neth

You hang radiators on to plasterboard with brown wall plugs ?

John...

Totally standard practice in the commercial plumbing industry, as a last resort if you have no option. Of course you would screw to the brick behind, if possible.
It's been that way for years and I have never heard of a problem, unless it's been stood on.

[27neth]

im sorry but brown wall plugs in plasterboard take no weight at all, if you use them in plasterboard they cannot be fitted correctly. You are lucky to be able to tighten the screw up,
If you are going to use cavity fixings get the type that compress behind the plasterboard when tightened, dont use the ones that spring open when you insert them in the hole

John.

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by 27neth

im sorry but brown wall plugs in plasterboard take no weight at all, if you use them in plasterboard they cannot be fitted correctly. You are lucky to be able to tighten the screw up,
If you are going to use cavity fixings get the type that compress behind the plasterboard when tightened, dont use the ones that spring open when you insert them in the hole

John.

Ok

I'm obviously telling porkies.

I apologise.
Just ignore me.

[ozthecoz]

seems like i opened a can of worms lol.

Cheers for all the "debate" and info - much appreciated.

remember its a complete hollow behind the board - the solid wall is 2ft behind the plaster board

[27neth]

Sorry Badger0-0, i didnt mean to argue, we both agree on the cavity fixing idea

This is the fixings i would use Hollow Wall Anchor 5 x 43mm 6-13mm Pack of 10 - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

john..

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by ozthecoz

seems like i opened a can of worms lol.

Cheers for all the "debate" and info - much appreciated.

remember its a complete hollow behind the board - the solid wall is 2ft behind the plaster board

The point is you're basically mounting a bag of sugar, which is nothing.

I stand by what I said, but yes, to be safe get toggles or what's known in the trade as "curlywhirlies" (I'll find a link). You don't even need a drill with those

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by 27neth

Sorry Badger0-0, i didnt mean to argue, we both agree on the cavity fixing idea

This is the fixings i would use Hollow Wall Anchor 5 x 43mm 6-13mm Pack of 10 - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

john..

No worries mate, I'm too old to worry about it

[27neth]

Im guessing these are the curlywhirlies Metal RediDrivas 35mm Pack of 100 - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

John..

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by 27neth

Im guessing these are the curlywhirlies Metal RediDrivas 35mm Pack of 100 - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

John..

Yep, that's them.
Well, sort of. I suspect they're actually for double thickness board, given the length.
The ones I have in mind are wider and shorter.
The only downside with those, is if you get it wrong, you're left with a big hole that you can't do anything with.

Note one of the reviewers has mounted his 32" LCD with those (and not into wood).
Also note the stronger than the plasterboard quote.

Fixings, correctly used, are a lot better than you would think

[DodgeTheViper]

Originally Posted by 27neth

Im guessing these are the curlywhirlies Metal RediDrivas 35mm Pack of 100 - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

John..

I was just about to put the link on for these thing's. I think they're great. I keep loads of them available. I've hung really heavy mirrors with these thing's, so easy to use as well.

Definately recommended

[MacReady]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but do you think those fixings would be strong enough to hold a 92" manual projector screen in to ceiling plasterboard.

I am going to be fitting one next month but I dont think there are going to be any studs or joists I can fix it to in the right place...and the property is rented so I cant hack away at the ceiling or get to them through the floorboards above to add any bracing.

It's just a temp fix for a few months but I dont want the screen to come crashing down after a few uses.

[DodgeTheViper]

Originally Posted by MacReady

Sorry to hijack the thread, but do you think those fixings would be strong enough to hold a 92" manual projector screen in to ceiling plasterboard.

I am going to be fitting one next month but I dont think there are going to be any studs or joists I can fix it to in the right place...and the property is rented so I cant hack away at the ceiling or get to them through the floorboards above to add any bracing.

It's just a temp fix for a few months but I dont want the screen to come crashing down after a few uses.

No. Dont use them for fixing a screen. The vibration from pulling the screen up and down will loosen them ! Either use toggle or butterfly bolts as mentioned earlier. Ultimately it's best fixed to a batten of timber.
If there are no joists to fix to, use the toggle bolts to fix a timber batten to the ceiling, then fix the screen to the batten.
Your screen probably only has two fixing points, one at each end.

[mossym]

the other thing with mounting onto the ceiling you have to be careful about is that teh weight is straight down from the screw, effectively pulling it out of the ceiling, in a wall the weight is at 90degrees to the screw, not pulling the screw straight out of the wall. mounting to the ceiling is a little more difficult

[MacReady]

Thanks for the replies :-)

I must have got lucky with the screen in my ex-Wife's house. That was a 108" manual and, rather foolishly, I fixed that to the ceiling using nothing but the grey expanding plugs that I had.

It's still up and, after a hell of a lot of use, has not loosened at all. I just need to be sure this time though because, as mentioned, it's not our house and I dont want to risk one side coming out and taking the other side of the ceiling with it ;-)

[Liam @ Prog AV]

The KEF ci100 is almost identical to the Kef egg and is an in-ceiling/in-wall speaker. Why not make your life a lot easier and just buy one of these. All you have to do is cut a circle into the wall and slide it in.

[addyjones1234]

I used 4 of the ones in the first link to mount my 32" LCD

[tig]

If you're using the hollow wall anchors buy a setting tool-http://www.screwfix.com/prods/12429/Hand-Tools/Builders-Tools/Builders-Basics/Setting-Tool. It'll make the job much easier.

Tig