[markkany]

Hi all,

I am trying to attach two by fours to my lounge wall, tonight i used 7 100 mm screws and rawl plugs but still couldn't get a fixing, was able to rip the the baton off with one hand,lol.

I obviously am not going deep enough, so was thinking of using these:

Rawlplug Hammer In 21490 8mm x 120mm, 5010445214905

Are these as easy as just pre drilling the wood with an 8 mm wood bit, using that to mark the wall then switching to masonary bit and smack them in the wall ? are they effective ?

Was really fed up tonight, marked out wall for sizing, cut wood to size and thought that was me on my way

Alas i hadn't realised the frustration i was in for

Oh you probably guessed this is for a floating wall, any help greatly appreciated.

[freemo999]

It depends on your wall type i guess.

This last week i have put a 2"x2" frame on my wall. Wall is dry dot and dab wall. So plaster board 1/2" cavity then Thermalite block.

We ended up using a 5.5mm drill bit, knocking a red rawl plug into the thermalite block, then followed it in with another red plug, managed to get a very solid fixing using this method. Might not be the most conventional method but it has certainly worked

Good Luck !!

[Grangey.]

yea it really depends on what your wall is made out of and what rawl plugs your using. Im only using 4 7 x 80mm with brown rawl plugs and my 2by4 is solid to the wall.

[wese007]

maybe it could be that you are drilling to deep so the rawplugs are going to deep into the wall,if you look at the end of the plug,it expands when he screws go into it,this is what helps it grip intot he brickwork,

make sure the rawplugs are flush with the wall surface,,then the screws wull bite into the plugs,you only have 2 inch of screw going into the wall,and thats borderline of the plugs length,,

check these two opions buddy,wall construction and mine

[mark88]

Hammer and frame fixings are crap IMO....They're fast but you never get as good of a fix as normal screws/plugs.

With hammer fixings you don't pre drill the wood. You simply drill right through the wood into the wall to the correct depth and hammer them home. Whenever I've used them I always found that I have to use more of them to get a decent fix.

I also disagree with the above comment, a plug doesn't need to be flush with the wall surface. It can be hammered in much deeper if the material is solid. If you have a 1" plug flush with the wall surface, 1/2" of it could be in brick while the first 1/2" could be in soft plaster, this isn't good.

When I'm fixing 3x2's to the wall I use brown nylon plugs and 4" screws. Drill right through the material into the wall to the depth of the screw + 15/20mm then hammer the plug in (whilst on the end of the screw) and then screw home. To me this is the tried and tested method.

Also check the type of plugs you used, some are absolute *****.

[wese007]

sorry if i made any confusion,you are right mark88,plugs dont need to be level with wall surface,was just refering to this particular post,and his problem, and thought maybe the length of screw was maybe not reaching the end part of the plug that expands more than the begining of a plug if he had put the plugs to deep if you get me

mark you said(When I'm fixing 3x2's to the wall I use brown nylon plugs and 4" screws. Drill right through the material into the wall to the depth of the screw + 15/20mm then hammer the plug in (whilst on the end of the screw) and then screw home) good tip,no chance of the plug getting pushed in to deep if holes are too deep

markkany let us know how you get on,and find the cause of the problem you had,knowedge for others to learn as well

[RABG]

Hi

Pic of my set up using Fischer UX plugs into plasterboard only.

This fixing works in solid or hollow materials.

Wall bracket for tv held on by 6 plugs into plasterboard tv weighs about
35kg.

RabG.

[inzaman]

RABG, that looks great.

A quick off topic but what is that control centre looking thing in the middle.

[curvature]

Originally Posted by markkany

Hi all,

I am trying to attach two by fours to my lounge wall, tonight i used 7 100 mm screws and rawl plugs but still couldn't get a fixing, was able to rip the the baton off with one hand,lol.

I obviously am not going deep enough, so was thinking of using these:

Rawlplug Hammer In 21490 8mm x 120mm, 5010445214905

Are these as easy as just pre drilling the wood with an 8 mm wood bit, using that to mark the wall then switching to masonary bit and smack them in the wall ? are they effective ?

Was really fed up tonight, marked out wall for sizing, cut wood to size and thought that was me on my way

Alas i hadn't realised the frustration i was in for

Oh you probably guessed this is for a floating wall, any help greatly appreciated.

Something not mentioned but important and that is to ensure the hole in the wall if brick/block construction is clean.

After drilling blow out any dust and/or use a pipe cleaner to ensure there is no dust in the hole. The dust acts as a lubricant and allows the plug to be pulled out.

This was demonstrated to me by a technical guy from Rawl Fixings. They actually sell a tool for cleaning out the holes.

[RABG]

Originally Posted by inzaman

RABG, that looks great.

A quick off topic but what is that control centre looking thing in the middle.

Hi

Thats the sub.

Re dust in holes its only really a problem if the fixing is loaded towards its maximum possible load,
also in the applications that you guys are using fixings its more shear loads than tensile loads so
I wouldn't worry to much about cleaning out all the dust.

I put up some shelves for a mate using hammer in fixings. First time I ever used them, and probably the last. Only one gripped. Amazingly, the shelves stayed up but daren't put anything heavy or valuable on them.

[RABG]

Originally Posted by Marky P

I put up some shelves for a mate using hammer in fixings. First time I ever used them, and probably the last. Only one gripped. Amazingly, the shelves stayed up but daren't put anything heavy or valuable on them.

Can I ask what type of wall ,how deep and what size of fixings
I have seen plug and screw fixings tested to over 1 ton!!!!!!
If installed correctly its amazing what loads this type of fixing
can take although its recommended that any plastic type fixing
should only be loaded to one seventh of its maximum load!

[markkany]

Thanks for all the replys.

Will have to have a go at this again this weekend, work has kept me shattered so far this week and it will be like that till friday.

The plaster and laff* appears to be about 12mm thick, therafter a 2/3 " gap, then brick. I cant see the brick as i have only the tiny holes made by the masonary bit, but i imagine i am hitting brick or stone.

Here's how i went about this so far. Say the first vertical baton is a metre and a half, 1500 mm. I predrill the wood with a small wood bit and create about seven pilot holes, equally apart.The wood bit leaves a marking on the wall which i then use a masonary drill to drill into the marks left by the wood bit, i drill about 5 " deep with the masonary bit. I then screw the wood screws into the vertical piece, add the rawl plugs to the end of the screw then try to get the baton into the wall. This bit is doing my head in, trying to align all seven screws with rawls into the seven holes i made and then try and get them into the holes i made in the brick. Surely there must be an easier way than this, lol.

Hope the above makes sense

Anyway what i am going to try as soon as i get a chance is use screws larger at 120/130 mm and try the above again. Hopefully the longer screws will help me get deeper into the wall and the rawls will manage to grip. Thats saying i can i get them all to line up with the holes in the masonary as i cant see them.

I also have another idea , lets see how this grabs you. I was thinking of using rips of 3/4 ply attaching these using wood screws to the plaster and laff, masses of screws will ensure i get a good grip on the laff, then add 4x1" to the rips of ply, then secure the MDF TO THE 4X1.. i think as i am only using 12mm MDF this ply/4x1 method may be strong enough to hold the floating wall in place. This also means i dont have to piddle about trying to align holes up and drill the wall to bits. Thoughts on this?


Really appreciate all the replys so far and hope to hear from some of you again, thanks.