[metal guru]

finally got conservatory finished end of last year, today is lousy weather and I'm bored so thought I'd set up pair of speakers. just ran cheepo market cable through from amp through living room and managed to loose this under skirting. Then the problems, how do I hide it in conservatory? Tiled floor, no skirting and cheepo cable on view. I'm going to try and lift the window sills and run it under there but theyre newly siliconed down. Anyone going down this route in future dont be a dummy like me and get your cable in with the electrics as the building is taking place, cant believe I missed it Duh.
I'm in too deep now so have to get it tidied somehow

metal G

[mr-gobby]

Bored eh, time to skirt the conservatory then! You'll probably do it later anyway once you've washed the tiled floor a few times and got filth marks up the walls. I bet you wish you'd had more sockets put in too,,,, usuall never enough and always never where you really need them!

[dazzlew]

Originally Posted by metal guru

finally got conservatory finished end of last year, today is lousy weather and I'm bored so thought I'd set up pair of speakers. just ran cheepo market cable through from amp through living room and managed to loose this under skirting. Then the problems, how do I hide it in conservatory? Tiled floor, no skirting and cheepo cable on view. I'm going to try and lift the window sills and run it under there but theyre newly siliconed down. Anyone going down this route in future dont be a dummy like me and get your cable in with the electrics as the building is taking place, cant believe I missed it Duh.
I'm in too deep now so have to get it tidied somehow

metal G

How about drilling a hole through the conservatory wall and trailing the cable outside?

[Crocodile JD]

What about running the wire under the lip of the window sill. You might have to remove a fillet of silicon and then redo it with the wire encapsulated, but at least you wont have to dislodge the sill. A tip with the silicon (so long as the wall is not brick faced) is to run the bead in with ample silicon for desired fillet size. Choose a chisel or flat screw driver that also gives the desired fillet size then apply saliva (spit) to the blade and run it along at an angle of 45 degrees. If at any point it starts dragging the silicon, stop and re apply saliva and continue from a point just before the point you stopped at. Make sure that you apply pressure so that the corners of the blade make good contact with the two sides (ie, wall and under side of sill). When you have completed the length let it dry for 10 to 20 mins (not completely dry) to the point where you can peel the excess (smaller beads each side of the main fillet) by simply pulling it away. Occasionally you will need to encourage it with a Stanely Knife blade and it will snap a few times so you just keep re starting until it is all removed. This will leave a totally professional looking fillet joint. One further tip is that the wire must be well fastened right into the corner else it will keep breaking out of the silicon and look really bad.

Good luck
Croc

[neiljones]

City Electrical Factors (numerous branches) sell cabletrunking with pull off front. Comes in various sizes and has a adhesive tape on rear to stick to whatever surface you have. It is white plastic and very easy to install. Easy to cut or saw. Once installed is very onobtrusive . It is easy to mitre any corner joints. Quite cheap.

Originally Posted by Crocodile JD

What about running the wire under the lip of the window sill. You might have to remove a fillet of silicon and then redo it with the wire encapsulated, but at least you wont have to dislodge the sill. A tip with the silicon (so long as the wall is not brick faced) is to run the bead in with ample silicon for desired fillet size. Choose a chisel or flat screw driver that also gives the desired fillet size then apply saliva (spit) to the blade and run it along at an angle of 45 degrees. If at any point it starts dragging the silicon, stop and re apply saliva and continue from a point just before the point you stopped at. Make sure that you apply pressure so that the corners of the blade make good contact with the two sides (ie, wall and under side of sill). When you have completed the length let it dry for 10 to 20 mins (not completely dry) to the point where you can peel the excess (smaller beads each side of the main fillet) by simply pulling it away. Occasionally you will need to encourage it with a Stanely Knife blade and it will snap a few times so you just keep re starting until it is all removed. This will leave a totally professional looking fillet joint. One further tip is that the wire must be well fastened right into the corner else it will keep breaking out of the silicon and look really bad.

Good luck
Croc

I'm a PVCu conservatory installer of 12 years & I would not recommend using silicon internally, I always use acrylic sealant when frames or sills meet walls or painted surfaces. Rant over

[Crocodile JD]

I'm a PVCu conservatory installer of 12 years & I would not recommend using silicon internally, I always use acrylic sealant when frames or sills meet walls or painted surfaces. Rant over

Russgt
Please explain, I use silicon everywhere, round the bath, sink etc. My conservatory and all windows in the house are sealed with silicon. The only time I use other is to fill gaps for example between skirting and wall prior to painting. I obviously never use silicon when paint needs to be applied.

Croc

[metal guru]

cheers folks, plenty to go at here. you know when you start a job and wish you hadn't bothered?
At the minute its half hidden under the lip of the sill, held in place with self adhesive clips but I'm not happy with it. Let you know outcome later.

metal G

[Sly]

another member posted this link to a site that does really nice trunking.
cant remember who it was but i added it to my fav's as i am gonna order some soon.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...dex/index.html

[scott R]

when i was fitting conservatories and windows all external work was in silicone plastic to plastic in stellmix and all internal edges in Acrylic caulk so it can be painted over except in Bathrooms and kitchens where frames meet tiles and to avoid it moulding. Ive always prefferd to use silicone for finished internal work tho because the caulking discolours fast. Getting back on topic if its a plastic window board just tuck the cables under it, if not super glue it tight into the corner and paint it in.