Hi, I am about to mount a panasonic px600. My wall is "dot and dab" 10mm plaster board, so no wooden battens. The gap between the plasterboard and the blockwork is about 35mm. Can anyone recommend a suitable fixing to go right through into the blockwork.

Cheers
Steve

[Keithcun]

Mine was similar,so I drilled 40mm - 50mm diameter holes (or whatever size hole cutter you have) through the plasterboard where I was fixing the bracket,then filled the holes with plasterboard adhesive flush to the plasterboard.Plasterboard adhesive is very strong and ideal for this.

These were the results.

I then bought a box of these and drilled 16mm (dependant on size of studding) holes into the plasterboard adhesive and into the block wall behind making sure the holes were deep enough to leave enough stud protruding out of the wall to clear the bracket and to get a washer and nut on.

I also bought 1 of these and injected into the holes then pushed the studding in whilst rotating to get good coverage.It sets very quickly,about 20 mins or so and is very,very strong.

If the clearance between the studding and holes in bracket isn't large,you can always get smaller diameter studding,and a sure way of making sure the studding is set in the walls in line so you can get the bracket on after the studs are set,is after you have drilled the holes for the studding, screw the bracket to the plasterboard using a couple of rawlplugs and screws to take the weight of the bracket and square up using a level making sure holes in bracket line up with holes in wall.

Then,inject the resin into the wall through the holes in bracket,and then insert the studs through the bracket,then you are guaranteed that everything lines up and the bracket will be square when you tighten everything up.I injected one hole then inserted stud and so on,as I said earlier,it doesn't take long for resin to set.

I used 9 studs because I had them,but I'm sure 6 will be well strong enough.

Hope this helps.

Thanks very much for that

Keithcun's route is fine, if a little time consuming. The alternative that I have used several times is:-

1. Cut out the plasterboard to the size/shape of the fixing plate.
2. Cut ply or mdf of the depth of the plasterboard and gap to fit the cut hole.(B&Q do small sheets and sometimes reminents)
3. Pin or glue the differant thicknesses of timber together and slot them in the holes in the plasterboard.
4. Drill through the timber and into the blockwork using the bracket as a template.
5. Bolt the bracket into the wall throught the timber packer with expanding raw bolts.
6. Apply painter's chalk round the bracket to hide the cut edge of the plaster board and the edge of the timber and paint as needed.

The last 42" tilt wall bracket I did for a friend took 4 hours and cost him £6.50 for the bolts. Job done!