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My Home Cinema project

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Old 24-03-2005, 2:45 AM   #1
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My Home Cinema project

Getting close to the end of my home cinema... ok Dining room conversion, I have a few pics if anybody's interested.

Not sure I went with the right colour scheme tho, bear in mind this is inside the house so no black ceilings etc, she let me take the room over already, I don't want to push my luck- Would greys be better

Also, far too much noise comes through the doors, 2 x 2ft panelled types that builders put in new houses- Any ideas welcome!
Attached Thumbnails
My Home Cinema project-img_0130.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0131.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0132.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0133.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0134.jpg  

My Home Cinema project-img_0135.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0136.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0145.jpg   My Home Cinema project-img_0156.jpg  

Last edited by mikeaitch; 24-03-2005 at 2:48 AM.
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Old 24-03-2005, 10:46 AM   #2
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your internal doors sound like they are hollow with only a honeycomb paper filling between two bits of hardboard. You could replace them with solid wood doors.
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Old 24-03-2005, 2:24 PM   #3
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Hi Mike,
Looks like a similar colour scheme to mine (see link in sig.) - soft stone? - and I'm pretty happy with it.
Solid doors do work better than the honeycome ones that are usually fitted. I'd look into seals as well (so that there is no gap). This may help the upper mid and high frequencies. If it's the lower frequencies that are causing you concern maybe look into isolating or repositioning the sub.
Short of serious sound-proofing (and serious cash) you won't fix it completely.
By the way are your internal walls studwork (timber/plasterboard) or brick/block?
Cheers,
Hatch
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Old 24-03-2005, 3:17 PM   #4
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if you can find some the missus likes go for fire doors with a smoke seal that should help on a bit of sound leakage
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Old 24-03-2005, 6:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
go for fire doors with a smoke seal that should help on a bit of sound leakage
That should help quite a lot, but as hatcher has stated if you seal the gaps around the current door and door frame that will stop a lot of the treble/mid. Bass is far more of a problem to control, hence why when you walk past a nightclub all you can hear is the bass.

Edit, also meant to say it looks very smart
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Old 24-03-2005, 8:39 PM   #6
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Thanks Guys

I'm struggling to find anywhere that does 2ft doors as fire doors, particularly since they have to match the six panelled type already used throughout the house to please the missus.
Will look into sealing though- need as much soudproofing as poss

Hatcher, walls are lightweight concrete block with Soundbloc platerboard skimmed except the back wall which is studding with mineral wool between the two boards

Anyone experimented with darker ceilings?

How much difference would it make to perceived contrast and black levels?
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Old 25-03-2005, 11:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeaitch
Thanks Guys

Hatcher, walls are lightweight concrete block with Soundbloc platerboard skimmed except the back wall which is studding with mineral wool between the two boards

Anyone experimented with darker ceilings?

How much difference would it make to perceived contrast and black levels?
That's good.

I think that you would have to go quite dark before you really notice any difference.

A friend of mine airbrushed the ceiling and walls matt black at the screen end and feathered it out so that it was white/beige six feet back. looks very good and works well but not quite up there with 'acceptable' decoration.

Hatch
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Old 26-03-2005, 11:13 AM   #8
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Thanks Hatch

I'm considering changing to Ice storm for the whole scheme, or Inzaman's suede paint.

What colour would I need to get a marked difference?

Nice idea by your friend, but dedicated rooms only or the batchelor life only methinks
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Old 26-03-2005, 11:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
I'm struggling to find anywhere that does 2ft doors as fire doors
When i was looking for a fire door i did find this site and see here that match yours.

Also the only other problem with a fire door is the thickness, i think that most are 45mm thich where as i think 'normal' doors are more like 35mm.
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Old 26-03-2005, 8:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeaitch
I'm struggling to find anywhere that does 2ft doors as fire doors, particularly since they have to match the six panelled type already used throughout the house to please the missus.
Wickes do a 6 panelled firedoor for £50ish pounds. It's the one I'm going to be using because, like you, all the rest of the doors are that type, "Regency Style Fire Door - £51.49".
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Old 26-03-2005, 9:01 PM   #11
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INZAMAN AND BALOO- BRILLIANT

Thanks a lot guys, they seem to be a perfect match !

Also found an acoustic seal company:

http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/...thresholds.htm

Soon, all will be quiet!

I'm going to put a 9mm wood fillet on the inside of the room around the architrave to build the thickness out to fit the firedoor. Will also need wider hinges to account for the extra thickness or the screws wouldn't all go into the frame

Last edited by mikeaitch; 26-03-2005 at 9:04 PM.
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Old 29-03-2005, 9:22 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeaitch
Thanks Hatch

I'm considering changing to Ice storm for the whole scheme, or Inzaman's suede paint.

What colour would I need to get a marked difference?

Nice idea by your friend, but dedicated rooms only or the batchelor life only methinks
Granted.

Out of the two I'd say that Inzaman's suede paint should be dark enough (all round) to show a significant difference. Stylish too! You'd need to darken the ceiling too though - a complentary colour to the walls to keep the peace

Inzaman - any comments?
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Old 29-03-2005, 12:11 PM   #13
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False wall for equipment?

Hi Mike,

Sorry if someone has already asked this, but the part of the room where you are storing the hardware, is that a false wall you've put in or was the wall orginally part of the room?

I've got a new build myself and the room we are converting to a cinema room has four flat walls.

I was thinking of putting a false wall in for the equipment. This false wall would back onto a partition wall. It seemed a better idea to do this than to have a stand with all my pride and joy on show for the world to see.

If you've put a false wall in, is there anything I need to be aware of

Cheers

Darren
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Old 29-03-2005, 12:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaisersozeuk
Hi Mike,

Sorry if someone has already asked this, but the part of the room where you are storing the hardware, is that a false wall you've put in or was the wall orginally part of the room?

I've got a new build myself and the room we are converting to a cinema room has four flat walls.

I was thinking of putting a false wall in for the equipment. This false wall would back onto a partition wall. It seemed a better idea to do this than to have a stand with all my pride and joy on show for the world to see.

If you've put a false wall in, is there anything I need to be aware of

Cheers

Darren
Hi Darren

The wall was there when I bought it, sorry, although it's just studding and plasterboard anyway.

I got the equipment rack from Ikea, Kaxas I think, and cut it into the wall into the cloakroom behind, used plain architrave to finish it off and that's it

If you're going to build your own, the best advice I can give is to plan ahead and put in all the cable you need and also ones you don't- I had a great time trying to get a vga cable up to the projector after deciding to go for a HTPC.

If not, at least put in pullstrings to any locations so you can put in cables later.

Final thought: wired infrared relay systems are more easily integrated with the hideaway systems, with small emitters stuck directly on the equipment, as the smoked doors reduce the strength of the signal and lead to reduces response, so consider that in good time.

Other than that- go for it!
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Old 29-03-2005, 12:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeaitch
Hi Darren
I had a great time trying to get a vga cable up to the projector after deciding to go for a HTPC.
Where did you get the case from Mike? I'm thinking of adding a PC to my setup (not for DVD but for games) but would like a nice HTPC case.

Cheers,

Hatch
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Old 30-03-2005, 9:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatcher
Where did you get the case from Mike? I'm thinking of adding a PC to my setup (not for DVD but for games) but would like a nice HTPC case.

Cheers,

Hatch
Hi got it from Overclockers, excellent case, full size or smaller m/b, lots of space and own psu, in silver or black

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatal...Cases_126.html

Pretty quiet too, if you line it with sound deadening stuff from them
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Old 30-03-2005, 9:36 AM   #17
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Like the idea of the diffusion effect from the suede, g/f not too keen, says it will look too dark in the daytime

Inzaman, any daylight pics?

Seen this scheme below, What does anyone think? and can it be done in suede?
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Old 30-03-2005, 11:24 AM   #18
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Hi Mike, Thanks for the info!!

Cheers

Darren
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Old 30-03-2005, 11:39 AM   #19
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Quote:
Inzaman - any comments?
Chocolate Suede will be plenty dark enough imo.

Quote:
Inzaman, any daylight pics?
Its in my cellar so i get no natural light

I imagine in Natural light it wont be too dark but i personally wouldnt want a living room full of Chocolate Suede. What i would try is the screen wall in Chocolate Suede and try the remainder in Ivory as it does have good light diffusion qualities. How this compares to a grey room though i am not too sure, and i am not too sure whether it would make a significant difference.
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Old 30-03-2005, 12:02 PM   #20
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The room can make a big difference to ANSI contrast - that's when you have both bright and dark elements in the same scene. What happens is the bright elements reflect light back off the screen onto the walls etc, and then the light reflects back onto the screen, affecting the dark areas, so the diference between black and white on the screen (the contrast) is reduced.

The more you can reduce the reflections the better your ANSI will be.

Gary.
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Old 30-03-2005, 1:31 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info Mike.

You could try the brown suede front and back and ivory (I doubt there is much between ivory, beige and the grey) on the sides. This should mean light from the window will reflect off the lighter wall on the side and keep the gf happy but you would get some of the benefit of dark walls.

Also, I'm not familiar with your pj, but some have a limitation of how black they can actually produce black.

You can test this by displaying a picture that has a lot of dark areas or black bars and then place something over the screen (a hand, card etc.) so that a shadow is cast over it.

You will then be able to see how much 'light' is coming directly from the projector when it's meant to be showing nothing. This cannot be removed by room darkening.

This effects LCD more than DLP.

Cheers,

Hatch
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Old 04-04-2005, 6:24 PM   #22
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cool setup dude!!!

i m doing a crt and an x1 with a cs2 video processor connetced to the crt barco..i also need ideas on masking and motorised curtains..anyone know where i can seet pics of a set up such as the one i have in mind??

thanks
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Old 04-04-2005, 7:20 PM   #23
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I think I'll start with the ceiling in Ivory suede first to see how much difference it makes.

If it's not much I'll go as dark as I dare probably, and put up with the limitations of it being inside the house

Thanks for the comments!

Prejhan- thanks bro
Try the AVS site, there are links to some amazing cinemas there
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