DIY Cables - Various
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| Member | DIY Cables - Various Advertisement Want to Advertise?
I will quickly get to the subject, before everyone starts moaning and groaning. I am a cheap bastard, and want to make most of my cables...that is not entirely true - I want to make the following cables, to see the difference between homebrew and commercial cables @£2+/metre, and get some real satisfaction! SPEAKER CABLE: CAT 5e/6 bi-wired for L/R & C. I am OK on these - as there is wealth of material and posts available, for me to create them. INTERCONNECTS: For the new Yamaha RXV750 on order - connecting CD /MD/DVD etc. I have read the 'Homebrew Leads' sticky and understood most of it. However, there are a few questions: which solder to use? i.e. would a standard 60/40 Roisin cored solder do the job? The cable used by Mylo is 50/50 High Definition Audio cable from CPC (Part Code: CB001852) which is a Double shielded with Cellular Polyethylene foam dielectric. Centre conductor 22AWG/Braided: 112pcs/0.12mm Outer diameter: 6mm. Does the braided nature of the centre conductor, reduce the quality of signal? I know people recommend using a solid core. However, I am struggling to find the right cable to build an interconnect e.g. although it is also multi-stranded - would this cable from Maplin do? (Code: XS39N) http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...rce=14&doy=9m3 or better still this one: (Maplin Code: XX61R) http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...rce=14&doy=9m3 SUBWOOFER CABLE: I will most probably be getting a Velodyne CHT-10R to be connected to the Yam 750. I want to build a 3-4m cable for this too...Once again, I have read various threads - and the recommended cable seems to be a screened/shielded 50Ω RG58 or 75Ω RG59. However, I am still reading up and try to find info on the connectors to use. COMPONENT CABLE: I might progress to these, once I have accomplished the above. Please feel free to correct any of the above. Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks |
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| Veteran Member |
Hi John, That should get you started anyway until someone else pops up Cheers, mylo |
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| Conspicuous Member | Speaker Cable Sounds fine to me, there is a good page at www.tnt-audio.com if you havn't already found it. Bear in mind that Cat5 isn't the only geometry to consider, I use the outer braid of some coax and other people use cross-connected coax for example. Interconnects I used silver solder in my work but that's only because I needed to buy some solder anyway. It's a pig to work with and I don't think I'll be replacing it like for like, 60/40 should be fine just make sure it's lead free. I've used Puresonic cable for some of my interconnects and it's very good stuff for the price and is ideal for audio purposes. I've also used the second Maplin cable although only in mono configuration, it's pretty much the same but slightly thicker. Buy either with confidence As far as solid/stranded cores go I can't believe there would be a difference between the 2 other than the solid core being harder to bend. I do use solid core for my aerial cable though but that's only because CT100 is made that way. Subwoofer Cable Just treat it like an ordinary interconnect. The cables you're considering for your interconnects will be fine although obviously only use a mono version! Component Cable I've no experience here but make sure you've read Nic Rhodes thread on video cables in the Cabling forum. The high frequency signals are potentially a different ballgame. FYI, some of my work can be found in my article and here:EvilTube Speaker Cable |
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| Senior Member |
I am sure I remember J Risch using CT100 as a cheap speaker cable
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Mylo - First and foremost, Thanks. You are a true gent. eviljohn2 - Thanks. I have done everything you mention i.e. read those audioholics and tnt-audio articles and your thread (it came up on search) etc. However, you confirmed a few things for a newbie-cable-diy'er like myself. I am looking to have some fun whilst learning - so I might create a couple of interconnects...starting with a cheap version. I will stick with the lead-free solder you guys have mentioned. I have already ordered a variety of different phono plugs, heatshrink and cables from CPC today, and going to pay a visit to Maplin tomorrow. It is probably an overkill, but - I really like the look and build of the plugs and kits on homegrownaudio.com - and with a good $ rate at present, they work out just marginally more expensive than what Maplin sells its stuff for! e.g. Shark Phono's £2.99, Homegrown Audio Teflon insulated plugs £3.50 approx. IMHO, Component cable seems to require much more time, patience and research. So, I will hold off for now... Subwoofer cable Apologies for sounding naive - Please explain about the 'mono' version. I assume you mean single phono-phono? Any dedicated links to create one, would be most welcome. Londondecca - I already have some spare CT100 lying around, after re-routing the Sky Digibox. I will dig that out, and give it a go! Just one question, for the time being ;-)) Although, I have already ordered the heatshrink - I do not know if it is the correct version - 3M 1.6mm UNSHRUNK Heatshrink Also, I am quite new to using this particular product - how easy is it to get it firmly wrapped around a bunch of braided CAT 5's? - I will have to get myself a hairdryer from Argos. Your help is much appreciated. Cheers! John |
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| Conspicuous Member | Quote:
Knightshade (a member here) has used some plugs from HomeGrown Audio and seems very happy with them. They're on the end of some Cat5 cable he made so have a look for those if you havn't already - he hangs around in the cabling section more than the DIY section. I've used the Maplin Shark plugs before and they're a bit expensive for what they are but do look nice. By mono cable I mean just using a single length of coax rather than a pair like you would for stereo interconnects. There's nothing fancy about a sub cable, it's just a long interconnect. If you want to try solid core cable then you won't find anything better than CT100 so use it. Your choice of heatshrink sounds a bit thin but the only way you'll find out is when it arrives. Homebase and most DIY stores sell small packs of heatshrink containing a variety of diameters. I wouldn't bother buying a hair-dryer, just use a cigarette lighter. After a bit of practice you'll learn not to burn the ends of any sections you're finishing off. | |
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| Senior Member |
Sorry I have misinformed you. The CT100 was from a TNT cable which is a modified version of Risch's http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/ubyte2e.html Another variation http://www.tubeaholic.com/projects/p...w?RowId=66#183 which gives the best looking cable I have ever seen. There is also a cheap and easy version at the bottom of the page |
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I will hold off on that hairdryer! & use my trusty zippo to practice on this heatshrink when it arrives. I will most probably be spending a lot of time in DIY stores this w/end - apart from shopping for a sub. Thanks for explaining on how to choose the sub cable. Londondecca - That tubeaholic link is excellent. Cheers! Another question - while I have your attention ;-)) After I am done, actually it should read 'if I am done' - I would want to enclose some of these cables in a nylon braid/sleeve. Although, this process is a bit further away, and is not entirely necessary. Do I need to think about it now? i.e. before firmly securing the plugs and heatshrink etc.? Thanks | |
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| Conspicuous Member |
I've used some sleeving on a few of my cables (to bind speaker cables together, to make mains cables look nice and to make a sub cable I made for a mate look fancy ). You need to put the sheathing on before you put at least one ends worth of connectors on otherwise you'll never get it over them!I can't find the Jesmay/Nakamichi plugs in my CPC catalogue. Have you got a link? LondonDecca, that link for cross-coax cable is excellent. I had to give up when I was trying to make some because I just couldn't see how to do it without risking cross-connections of the damaging kind! |
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Homebrew leads However, for others here are the CPC part codes, lifted from Brimstone's post: Jesmay Red Band AV08289 £0.98 White Band AV08290 £0.98 Nakamichi Red CN02385 £0.87 White CN02386 £0.87 ================================================== ====== HTH | |
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). You need to put the sheathing on before you put at least one ends worth of connectors on otherwise you'll never get it over them!






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