Removing skirting boards is easier with a small crowbar with the wall protected by a scrap of wood or ply.
Start in the middle so that it bows outwards and pop scraps of wood behind as you get the board away from the wall. Bowing helps to shorten the board enough to remove it if it is of full room length. Though you can only remove it after all the nails are free of course. If you try and pry one end of the board in a corner it will drag along the nearest wall and damage it. It will probably be mitred in as well. Which means it is locked into position unless you can shorten the board somehow. Wedges are most useful to keep the board away from the wall as you go long. But scraps of wood will probably have to do.
I would start in the middle with a very strong & broad firmer wood chisel. But a bolster is very much cheaper for odd jobs. A bolster is a broad all metal chisel for cutting stone and brick. It greatly reduces damage to the wall by being broad enough not to dig in.
A great deal depends on the age of the building as to how easily the skirting boards are removed. They used to use some horrible great big nails sometimes. Modern narrow boards are mere shadows of their former selves from older times. Some ran to 10"-15" wide (high) or more in Georgian houses.
Use tough builders gloves to protect your hands from the nails and from being trapped behind the board every few minutes. Two people usually work better than one on skirtings unless you have three hands and very long arms. Remember to bow the boards to get them back in!
Have fun
NIMBY