[lockdown81]

hi people im new to this site , ive been looking at a few of the pics of peoples DIY jobs of there home cinemas , and i have noticed a few people might have needed some advice on the building work , dont get me wrong im not knocking the work , cos at the end of the day we all started somewhere , all im wanting to say is its my trade i do up houses all day long and have done a few installs myself , so if any one needs to ask any info on how to build stud walls , or floating walls, or any advise on plastering or tape and jointing , or electrics or rules and regs , etc then feel free to ask , il awnser all of your questions , please dont take offense to this , my trades are ALL TYPES OF KITCHENS ,BEDROOMS ,BATHROOMS, TILEING , FLOORING, PLASTERING , DRY LINEING, ELECTRICS AND PLUMBING, im hoping i can advise someone , please feel free to ask anything ,

thanks lockdown

[M2GX]

Kind of you to offer, i'm sure someone will take you up on it.

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by M2GX

Kind of you to offer, i'm sure someone will take you up on it.

lol do you think so , its free advise at the end of the day

[Grangey.]

Thanks Lockdown..

first question..

plastering... should it be attempted by amatures?

[TorchMT360]

in the process of building a new stud partition wall and about to tape the joins, what is best to use? the original paper tapes or the mesh type tapes?
and are steel tapes only used on external corners?
is it std tape on internal corners?
also needing to re-do the ceiling, what size areas should i be artexing at any given time?
any help much appreciated

[MarkP80]

Kind offer lockdown

im hoping i can advise someone , please feel free to ask anything

- really, the way it works is that people post their questions in a thread. just have a read of the threads and if you have something to contribute to that thread, then please post your advice. I'm sure it will be appreciated.

Cheers,
MarkP

[lockdown81]

[QUOTE=Grangey.;10036135]Thanks Lockdown..

first question..

plastering... should it be attempted by amatures?[/Q

hi mate id say its up to you , but probly best to leave it to a pro , its not an easy trade to learn lol, what walls have you got at mo , as i can give you other ways to do it ? and if you give me sizes i can give you rough price it would cost you .

solid wall ?
plaster board [ dry lined ]

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by TorchMT360

in the process of building a new stud partition wall and about to tape the joins, what is best to use? the original paper tapes or the mesh type tapes?
and are steel tapes only used on external corners?
is it std tape on internal corners?
also needing to re-do the ceiling, what size areas should i be artexing at any given time?
any help much appreciated

hi
mesh tape on the joins .
paper tape normaly for internals [ wall to ceiling ].
and steal tape on the exsternal [ used to strenthen against knocks.
artex dosent have a set time like plaster does , so you would get away with bigger areas , depends aswell on the pattern or fininsh you want , but if you never done it befor then just do a meter sq at a time , hope this helps

[stewart28]

i have just finished clearing my loft space.

me and the missus have been thinking about creating a home cinema.

we are not going to go down the path of full stairs as yet but we want to ensure any work done will be ok with building regs in the future.

so two things-

what is the required insulation for the roof joists( cheapest possible) and can you suggest a sounfd insulation for the floor.

cheers

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by stewart28

i have just finished clearing my loft space.

me and the missus have been thinking about creating a home cinema.

we are not going to go down the path of full stairs as yet but we want to ensure any work done will be ok with building regs in the future.

so two things-

what is the required insulation for the roof joists( cheapest possible) and can you suggest a sounfd insulation for the floor.

cheers

hi mate , right theres more then just insulaition issues and stairs to worry about , problem is is you want to use the room more then storeing xmas tree etc then the regs are massive for one the joists wont be strong enough to carry sertain weights so bigger joists fixed along side existing ones on floor , plus fire exits a majour part , if anything happens your insurance will not pay out if regs wernt met ,,plus you only got a sertain size openin on the loft hatch so you need to make bigger to get the tv ect up there and plasterboard etc , to be honest its not as easy as it seems and will cost more then you think , i can talk you through some bits if you still wanted to carry on no probs , but you need to get me some pics so i can tell you afew other ways of doing things PM me if needed il help you as much as i can , hope this ok and if you do carry on then il sort out what insulaition and other bits you will need to buy on a budjet , il do the best i can for you

thanks lockdown

[alz2605]

I have an outside brick shed which houses the washing machine. During the winter months the inside of the shed suffers badly from condensation which killed our last washing machine. It has a concrete floor, bare red brick walls, a single glazed metal framed window and a couple of air bricks in the wall with an asbestos roof.

Would insolating it and then plasterboard it out with a skim over it help?
Or should I just buy a new washing machine evey year?

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by alz2605

I have an outside brick shed which houses the washing machine. During the winter months the inside of the shed suffers badly from condensation which killed our last washing machine. It has a concrete floor, bare red brick walls, a single glazed metal framed window and a couple of air bricks in the wall with an asbestos roof.

Would insolating it and then plasterboard it out with a skim over it help?
Or should I just buy a new washing machine evey year?

hi mate , if you do as you say it will go mouldy fast the damp is coming from the floor and through the walls as you know,, the walls would need TANKING that will keep the moisture out [ you could do this youself ] but its a tricky one due to the roof and floor , the floor id put a sheet of DPM down and apply a screed on top, with the DPM running up the walls then you may get away with ply or poss plaster board,
hope this helps ,lockdown

[TorchMT360]

Originally Posted by lockdown81

hi
mesh tape on the joins .
paper tape normaly for internals [ wall to ceiling ].
and steal tape on the exsternal [ used to strenthen against knocks.
artex dosent have a set time like plaster does , so you would get away with bigger areas , depends aswell on the pattern or fininsh you want , but if you never done it befor then just do a meter sq at a time , hope this helps

cheers m8 :D

[gareth_01]

Your turning into a legend in your own right Lockdown...
No doubt someone will remind us all that this is an AV Forum but in the mean time could I have your views on wet rooms.

I am building a new house and have an ensuite, within which I will have an electric shower, toilet and sink. I like the idea of a dry room here but am not sure about cost or practicalities.

The ensuite is 1620 x 2440, on the second floor which is floorboarded over joices.

Oh and to incorporate some aspect of AV I plan on having speakers in the ceiling.

Let me know what you think.

Gareth

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by gareth_01

Your turning into a legend in your own right Lockdown...
No doubt someone will remind us all that this is an AV Forum but in the mean time could I have your views on wet rooms.

I am building a new house and have an ensuite, within which I will have an electric shower, toilet and sink. I like the idea of a dry room here but am not sure about cost or practicalities.

The ensuite is 1620 x 2440, on the second floor which is floorboarded over joices.

Oh and to incorporate some aspect of AV I plan on having speakers in the ceiling.

Let me know what you think.

Gareth

hi mate , lol you said about a wet room but then you said a dry room ? on the wet room side it will cost more and is a little bit more tricky due to waste hieghts and the big thing makeing shore it is 100% water tight , so the work that has to be done needs to be spot on , are you doing this work your self or have you got a contractor into carry out the work ? , is it built yet or still under construction ? im personly not a wet room lover as water gets everywhere or though they look good , but if your doin it yorself then id go for a shower tray and screen all shapes and sizes , and easyer to get water proof , plus ventalaiton is important pref over the top of the shower its self , takes the steam away asap , some pics will help

hope this helps mate if not il awnser more questions lol

thanks lockdown

[gareth_01]

Sorry, definitly a wet room - dont know why I typed 'dry'.

The house is built up to the first floor - so nowhere near the first fix yet.

I have a contractor doing it for me.

Was thinking of a wet room with one of those concave shower screen to stop the water running all over the room. I like the look of the wet room and the idea of more than one person being able to use the shower as you can place the screen pretty much anywhere.

Is it a really difficult job sealing the wetroom or should someone who knows what they are at be able to do it successfully?

G

[Suave]

Hi,

Do you actually do jobs as well?

Thanks,

Suave!

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by gareth_01

Sorry, definitly a wet room - dont know why I typed 'dry'.

The house is built up to the first floor - so nowhere near the first fix yet.

I have a contractor doing it for me.

Was thinking of a wet room with one of those concave shower screen to stop the water running all over the room. I like the look of the wet room and the idea of more than one person being able to use the shower as you can place the screen pretty much anywhere.

Is it a really difficult job sealing the wetroom or should someone who knows what they are at be able to do it successfully?

G

hi
if you have a contractor to do it mate then go for it , and yes they should have no probs in doing it for you to a quality standard , have you spoke to them to see if they interested in doing it for you ? and if you gona have the wet room then defo go for a walk in screen , haveing someone else do it for you is better if it goes wrong which if done properly all should be ok , just keep an eye on whats happening , but you need to decide soon befor they get to far for the services to be put in place, as the waste needs to be in the floor, and the floor will need to be ply and not chipboard,

thanks lockdown

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by Suave

Hi,

Do you actually do jobs as well?

Thanks,

Suave!

hi
yes i do all the work that was listed at the start of this thread lol been doing it since i was 14 lol ,and more , but just to much to list

[deansocial]

Originally Posted by lockdown81

hi
if you have a contractor to do it mate then go for it , and yes they should have no probs in doing it for you to a quality standard , have you spoke to them to see if they interested in doing it for you ? and if you gona have the wet room then defo go for a walk in screen , haveing someone else do it for you is better if it goes wrong which if done properly all should be ok , just keep an eye on whats happening , but you need to decide soon befor they get to far for the services to be put in place, as the waste needs to be in the floor, and the floor will need to be ply and not chipboard,

thanks lockdown

to do it properly then it is best to strip out to joists and back to brickwork and stubwork. Floor should be 25mm ply screwed at 150mm centers and the walls should be either MR plasterboard or cement board or marmox panel... the list goes on. then it all needs tanking with kerdi membrane or simlar, NO CUTTING CORNERS WITH THIS!!!

make sure you use a decent tray like a Impey aquadec. A tray and enclosure will cost around £800 i think. you can creae your own tray with ply if you like but a dedicated tray is far better

[kevo35]

Originally Posted by gareth_01

Sorry, definitly a wet room - dont know why I typed 'dry'.

The house is built up to the first floor - so nowhere near the first fix yet.

I have a contractor doing it for me.

Was thinking of a wet room with one of those concave shower screen to stop the water running all over the room. I like the look of the wet room and the idea of more than one person being able to use the shower as you can place the screen pretty much anywhere.

Is it a really difficult job sealing the wetroom or should someone who knows what they are at be able to do it successfully?

G

what kind of flooring? something like pollysafe is ideal used with a cove former to take it so far up the walls and stuck with an epoxy flooring adhesive (ball-F81) doing it that way you can have a drain straight into the floor

[deansocial]

yeah you can use polysafe flooring but it all depends what look you are going for

[read1976]

Hi Lockdown81

I'm in the process of buying a house and need your advice.

The picture below shows a kitchen in an extended house. The arches are where the front of the housed used to be. Also there are pipes coming down from the bathroom in that brown boxed off bit.
My question is can i remove the arches so that it is opened planned as well as moving those pipes elsewhere?
oh and rough idea on cost if possible?

Thanks

[lockdown81]

Originally Posted by read1976

Hi Lockdown81

I'm in the process of buying a house and need your advice.

The picture below shows a kitchen in an extended house. The arches are where the front of the housed used to be. Also there are pipes coming down from the bathroom in that brown boxed off bit.
My question is can i remove the arches so that it is opened planned as well as moving those pipes elsewhere?
oh and rough idea on cost if possible?

Thanks

hi mate yes you could remove the arches , but would have to have an RSJ put in there for support , but as for the pipes in the box , its proberly the soil stack , so this would be to much work to move , which means big labour costs due to redirecting it outside and picking up another waste outlet hence the reason its been left there when the exstension was built .


thanks lockdown

[read1976]

Thanks for the advice, If I was to move the pipes, what kind of time and costs would I be looking at?
Its going to spoil my plans if I cannot move them!! and the fact I'm going to live there for some time I really want to consider doing this before I get settled in?

Thanks again.

[gareth_01]

Cheers for the feedback on the wetroom - as long as it doesnt get too costly i think i will go for that.

[VoodooK1ng]

Hi, Have a query about standards in building for ceiling joists please.

I want to avoid drilling or cutting holes all over my artexed ceiling to find the joists to screw into. If I manage to find say one, is there a set distance these will be from each other? ie 4ft between joists as a standard when building?
Then I can at least cut a hole in the rough area where I expect to find a joist.

its a relatively new build house, only 8 years old. 3 storey town house. Im working on the middle floor in the lounge.

cheers

[27neth]

Try 400mm.

John..

[albriscoe]

Or 600mm if they wanted to save a lot of money

as a lot of them do

[albriscoe]

Originally Posted by read1976

Thanks for the advice, If I was to move the pipes, what kind of time and costs would I be looking at?
Its going to spoil my plans if I cannot move them!! and the fact I'm going to live there for some time I really want to consider doing this before I get settled in?

Thanks again.

Just a minute

you have to find out what pipe it is, if it is a soil pipe then that means that it must go to a roddable inlet or at least a manhole somewhere outside.

Either way they can be moved and if its something you can do yourself then its not that difficult and not a fortune either.

If it isn`t a soild pipe ie; 4" brown plastic stuff it could just be your water feeds and 2" waste pipes, even easier.

First thing is to find out what pipes are in their then do whats necessary.