[jwhyrock]

I wasn't sure where to post this -

I'm buying a HD Samsung and will have a home theater setup with the usual - tv, receiver, games etc etc. I wanted something nice to plug it all into. I was directed toward power filters originally, then others said screw that get a UPS they're better.

I haven't heard anyone yet break down the technical differences between the two yet. Does a UPS do the exact same thing as a filter just with backup or does a filter function differently and perhaps better for certain things? I know I could get any decent item in either category and they would work wonderfully, but since I am constructing a new and improved home entertaintment setup I want the best. My price range is up to $100, but I would prefer $75 and lower. I came to this price point because of the following two filters I found that are reviewed highly. The 1st is the one on other forums people suggested which can be found for around $100 on sale. The 2nd is the one I found myself also highly rated and I found it for $75 on sale.

[FONT=Times New Roman]http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/power-conditioners/apc-h15[/FONT]

<H1 style="MARGIN: auto 0in">[FONT=Times New Roman]http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/power-conditioners/apc-av-c10[/FONT]

</H1>I really just want the best bang for my buck. I don't mind people sharing what they bought and why and how it works for them, but to make a truly informed purchase I want to fully understand the differences between filters and UPS and get the better item. Again the 2 items I linked there are filters not UPS.

[FONT=Times New Roman][/FONT]

[jwhyrock]

I decided on the APC C10 filter I can find for $70. The cheapest I can find the APC H15 is $200 and its way overkill. The C10 will do awesome. Thx for reading the thread if you did.

[fredd500]

The main difference is that the outputs on a UPS are indirectly powered - i.e. the incoming power charges a battery and the battery powers an inverter which then feeds the output. Because of this, the voltage can fluctuate on the input side and the output side will remain constant.

A filter just smooths the input power. Unless you are plagued with spikes, there is little point to them. If you suffer from 'brown outs' (don't know what you would call them stateside), i.e. dips and surges then a UPS is what you want.

Either way, if you are buying these only because someone told you it makes your equipment sound better, avoid (in my humble opinion). If you are suffering with surges, then they are probably a worthwhile investment to protect your kit.

HTH

[jwhyrock]

No obvious surges, but I do have an older house 1950's construction and really just because you haven't had any surges or damage causing lightning storms doesn't mean you won't right?

These would do a good job protecting from a weather or other caused surge.

[fredd500]

Yes - they would do a good job protecting against any problems but if anyone tells you it makes your equipment sound better, they are trying to sell you rocking horse poo.

[jwhyrock]

lol. I would have to kick my own a$$ if I bought that nonsense! If anything just the cord management alone is worth it.

On a serious note though in the back of my mind I always thought that there could be signal issues if too many power cords were wrapped around other cables. Myth?

[bjarvis2785]

Originally Posted by fredd500

The main difference is that the outputs on a UPS are indirectly powered - i.e. the incoming power charges a battery and the battery powers an inverter which then feeds the output.

sorry, but that is actually incorrect.
The inverter is always powered via the mains. The battery source will only actually kick in if the voltage is out of tollerance or completely missing.
That is of course providing we're talking about an 'online' UPS.
The mains goes in via a rectifier, to convert to DC, then the filtering is done and then through the inverter back to AC and out to load.
This is also known as 'double conversion'. This means that the the output is voltage and frequency independant from the input.... resulting in Sinewave output.
Battery comes in instantly, no switchover time, by using ohms law.
If you like, the battery is ready, waiting, but the DC voltage is slightly higher than that of the one supplied via the rectifier, so the inverter will take the lower voltage (the easiest to get). When this fails, the only voltage left is that of the battery.

however, most UPS at the lower price range will be 'line-interactive'.
This is when the mains goes into the UPS, but stays as AC voltage into a AVS (automatic voltage stabiliser) and then out to the load.
The battery switches in if power is lost/voltage falls out of range etc, but has a few milisecond switch over time which can be picked up by some sensitive equipment.

HTH

[fredd500]

Ah. Clearly there is more to it than I thought I understood. Thanks.