[The News Bot]

Reviewed by Russell Williams
So, to sum up; It's small enough to tuck out of the way, sturdy, simple for technophobes, effective enough for technophiles, as cheap as it currently gets and it works. That makes it an easy recommended buy.
Read the full review...

[Stuart Wright]

Wow, never heard of a product like this before. Thanks, Russell. Would you buy one?

[AngelEyes]

Great review Russell, looks like the anti-mode can do a lot that the AS-EQ1 can do for less than half the expense. I look forward to hearing your comparison and how much difference the AS-EQ1's ability to boost dips as well perform the all important speaker sub integration, makes to the end results.

Well done

Adam

[Badger0-0]

Nice review Russ
Moonfly mentioned this piece of kit to me a couple of weeks ago and having read the manual, I thought it seemed decent, which you've confirmed.

Without going to read the manual again, doesn't the 8033 also have the ability to boost the bottom end?
Did you have a play with that? And if so, what did you think?

Tbh, I'm slightly disappointed that you never mentioned this, as I feel it might be a simple way of introducing a house curve, which while strictly incorrect, might be nice for films

I know you're not keen on boosting, but doing so on this box also introduces a low freq filter, IIRC, so should be pretty safe.

If you never tried it, is there any chance and maybe post your thoughts?

[Russell.Williams]

Originally Posted by Stuart Wright

Wow, never heard of a product like this before. Thanks, Russell. Would you buy one?

If I was interested in subwoofers enough to know about the benefits of EQ, but not really bothered about the technicalities of doing it, then I'd definitely buy one. At the moment, I'm trying to convince myself I need the extra manual control a BFD or SMS-1 delivers, but a little voice (of common sense?) is telling me the 8033 would be ample.

Certainly, for anybody with a room that only suffers a few minor peaks/dips, it's a great little bit of kit. I tried to trip it up by pushing a large ported sub into the worst corner of the room (as per the published graphs) and the 8033 still made it listenable.

Russell

[Easybourne]

Would a product like this help me make my sub a bit more 'neighbour-friendly'? I live in a flat and would like not to be a nuisance, but I also want to be able to watch a movie at a reasonable level from time to time.

[Russell.Williams]

EQ generally tames the loudest and most dominant peaks in the response which potentially makes it less likely to trouble neighbours. On the other hand, once those peaks are removed, the sub tends to get turned up a bit to compensate and thus neighbours are troubled again.

Isolation platforms like an Auralex Gramma may help a bit, but short of major DIY works to acoustically isolate the flat, there's not much that can stop bass wavelengths penetrating walls or floors. I'm afraid self restraint will still be required.

Russell

[Smurfin]

Russ, does this boost, or cut only?

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by Smurfin

Russ, does this boost, or cut only?

Having re-read the manual, it would seem it cuts only, but you do get the facility to boost 15-25hz or 25-35hz and it introduces a filter that will kill 10hz and down.

Could be useful, imo

http://www.dspeaker.com/fileadmin/da...mode8033en.pdf

[Russell.Williams]

That's right. It only cuts, but of course with the peaks reduced, you tend to turn the subwoofer up to compensate which of course is a boost.....

Importantly, it doesn't try to boost cancellations as far as I can see. I presume it can tell the difference between a power response dip and a modal cancellation null through the lack of ringing associated with the latter.

Russell

[Smurfin]

Originally Posted by Russell.Williams

I presume it can tell the difference between a power response dip and a modal cancellation null through the lack of ringing associated with the latter.

Russell

In my head there's a tumbleweed blowing around as that one was lost on me

[Russell.Williams]

Then my work is done.

Russell

[Moonfly]

Originally Posted by Russell.Williams

That's right. It only cuts, but of course with the peaks reduced, you tend to turn the subwoofer up to compensate which of course is a boost.....

Importantly, it doesn't try to boost cancellations as far as I can see. I presume it can tell the difference between a power response dip and a modal cancellation null through the lack of ringing associated with the latter.

Russell

OK, based on this I'm now thinking a single setup procedure may not be enough for someone with a dip or a few dips. It sounds like the procedure would be to run the EQ to cut the peaks. You would then (probably) up the gain a little to bring your dips up, then re-run to bring back down what would now be a peak again, albeit a flat(ish) peak arcoss quite a range.

Is that something like correct or not recommended, or even just something you would do out of preference?

Also, in your review you mention the inital thump at the start of the first test tone and advise reducing the gain. Would this not have the effect of exacerbating and problem dips? Wouldnt it be preferable (as long as your sub can take it and its safe) to let the antimode start with this loud tone and to take it from there.

Cheers.

Oh, and excellent review, very well written up gain

[Badger0-0]

Originally Posted by Moonfly

OK, based on this I'm now thinking a single setup procedure may not be enough for someone with a dip or a few dips. It sounds like the procedure would be to run the EQ to cut the peaks. You would then (probably) up the gain a little to bring your dips up, then re-run to bring back down what would now be a peak again, albeit a flat(ish) peak arcoss quite a range.

Is that something like correct or not recommended, or even just something you would do out of preference?

No, imo.
What you're doing is reducing peaks which will make the sub sound quieter overall, hence you turn it up to make it sound the equivalent of the previous setting. You're not bringing the dips up, more bringing the overall level up to where the peaks used to be.
In effect you've lifted most of the frequency range, but the maximum level will be no louder than it was, IE more bass, but it's not louder overall. Win-win

Originally Posted by Moonfly

Also, in your review you mention the inital thump at the start of the first test tone and advise reducing the gain. Would this not have the effect of exacerbating and problem dips? Wouldnt it be preferable (as long as your sub can take it and its safe) to let the antimode start with this loud tone and to take it from there.

Cheers.

Oh, and excellent review, very well written up gain

The Ultra has protective circuitry, as you know, but I'd still play safe.
Don't forget, the 8033 adds gain.

[Normal Bias]

Thanks a lot Russell, your review has just cost me £225! . Seriously though, great review. This seems just the gadget to tighten up my flabby and somewhat boomy bass. I particularly like the simplicity of the setup. Not having an SPL meter or any means to plot response graphs atm, I'm hoping this will make quite a big difference for a comparatively small cost and time outlay. Certainly a stop-gap until I can justify investing in all the gear and an Audessey or the like.

If anyone's interested, I paid £225.80 inc delivery from bkelec.com, they appear to have an offer until 1st June.

A couple of questions (feel free to treat them as observations ):

From the looks of your graphs, it doesn't appear to have been very effective at eliminating the ringing above about 80Hz. Maybe something in your room (window?) resonates too much for the anti-mode to be able to calm it down. I know that this is the upper end of a sub's range anyway so maybe this is moot.

I understand that the processing done by the box introduces a delay of about 2.7ms, or the equivalent of 3 feet distance. Did you adjust the sub distance setting in the processor at any time (either before or after calibration)? I guess the mic hears what it hears so this is unnecessary, and doing this post-calib would throw everything off. Maybe doing it pre-calib would make its job of matching the wave timings a bit easier. Maybe not (edit: you can't do it 'pre-calib' since the processor isn't involved, duh). edit again: sorry, just RTFM, just ignore this whole paragraph if you're still reading, LOL.

Anyway thanks again. Next up is a sub upgrade I expect

NB

[Russell.Williams]

The ringing above 80Hz is because the Anti-mode only equalizes the sub, not the speakers which are free to ring to their hearts content. It does not take into account the speakers contribution when EQing the sub either - it is a pure sub EQ device.

Depending upon the relative capabilities of the sub and how close the speakers 'issues' are to the crossover being used, it may prove beneficial to increase the crossover frequency to bring the problem area under the control of the sub and Anti-mode. Experimentation is the key and indeed devices like this do not preclude the use of programs like REW, Carma or XTZ's Room Analyzer from being used to set up the speakers as well as the subwoofer.

It doesn't matter whether you add 3ms or 2.7ft to you subs delay before or after you run the Anti-mode, because it is only EQing the sub. It does not take into account the speakers and no test tone is sent to the amp. The crossover between the sub and the speakers will still be down to you to optimize in the traditional fashion, or again with one of the programs/kits mentioned above.

Russell

[Normal Bias]

I thought the waterfalls were from the sub only, but if it's the before and after with the whole ensemble then that makes sense. Ta.

[Russell.Williams]

They do include the speakers, but bear in mind I had the sub positioned badly to throw up more issues to correct. Normally, that big dip around 80Hz isn't there.

Russell

[morris_minor]

Hi,

Just come across this review of the 8033, and as I have a BK XLS300/PR coming I've been wondering how best to set it up (being a total noob when it comes to subs).

I've an Onkyo 607 with Audessy, and the fronts are AVI Neutron Fives.

I'm going to use Audessy first off and see what happens, but if there are problems something like the 8033 seems worth trying.

So my question would then be: would I have to eq the sub with the 8033 first, and then run Audessy on the eq'd sub? Or would it be Audessy first, then the 8033? My limited logic here suggests the first way would be the right way to do it.

Can anyone confirm this please? And maybe give any tips not in the manuals.

Many thanks,
Bob

BTW Russell - great reviews; your piece on the XLS300/PR was really informative - thanks.

[Londondecca]

I have just been looking at this on the BKelec site and the price seems to have dropped to £216