[mattrixdesign2]

With having lots of kids toys, remote controls and other battery powered devices I decided a few years ago to move over to rechargeable batteries rather than the normal Duracels (the only brand I bought as they seemed to last longest).

At first the batteries were OK, not brilliant (didn't quite last as long as regular types), but now they are on the verge of being useless, i.e. say I use some fully charged ones in a torch, they can be flat the next time I use them, or even loose charge before I even get to use them. I expect the are getting warn out, but didn't expect them to fail this quickly.

I am not entirely sure if I am using the best charger, and the right batteries in each device, any tips or tricks to get the most, what brands should I look for, what batteries are best for remotes, what are best for motorised toys etc? When ever I look at the options out there it is mind-boggling, different types Ni-Cad etc, different capacity, different chargers etc etc.

As you can see I am not the best at understanding the science behind them, so keep it simple. If I can not get what I need from them I may as well go back to regular types as they seem to last a lot longer.

[cas398]

Devices like Torches etc are high drain so they require more powerful batteries.

You can get set of 4 x 2000mha with charger (duracell) from ASDA for £10.

Ideally for high drain devices you want to go about 2500mha Ni-Hm+

For remotes you'll only need about about 1000 mark. Cheaper to pick up as well.

[dng007]

Generally go for the highest rated ones available - for AA's I think thats around 2800maH. Definately don't get any of the cheapy ones as these won't last long at all. The only other thing to add is that they do indeed have a maximum lifespan. I think they usually say they last around 1000 re-charges.

[FZR400RRSP]

I had no idea about this 'maH' thing until we bought our first digital camera, took it to Paris and went through about £20's worth of normal AA batteries....
It was a steep learning curve.

[cas398]

Originally Posted by dng007

Generally go for the highest rated ones available - for AA's I think thats around 2800maH. Definately don't get any of the cheapy ones as these won't last long at all. The only other thing to add is that they do indeed have a maximum lifespan. I think they usually say they last around 1000 re-charges.

Yeah, I think the larger the mha the less times it can be recharged.

Still you probably won't need to buy a new set for atleast a year anway.

[Naqv]

Originally Posted by mattrixdesign2

With having lots of kids toys, remote controls and other battery powered devices I decided a few years ago to move over to rechargeable batteries rather than the normal Duracels (the only brand I bought as they seemed to last longest).

At first the batteries were OK, not brilliant (didn't quite last as long as regular types), but now they are on the verge of being useless, i.e. say I use some fully charged ones in a torch, they can be flat the next time I use them, or even loose charge before I even get to use them. I expect the are getting warn out, but didn't expect them to fail this quickly.

I am not entirely sure if I am using the best charger, and the right batteries in each device, any tips or tricks to get the most, what brands should I look for, what batteries are best for remotes, what are best for motorised toys etc? When ever I look at the options out there it is mind-boggling, different types Ni-Cad etc, different capacity, different chargers etc etc.

As you can see I am not the best at understanding the science behind them, so keep it simple. If I can not get what I need from them I may as well go back to regular types as they seem to last a lot longer.

erm, If you have been using the same batteries for a couple of years, then off course they will loose their charge. I don't know how many cycles you have been through as well.

[loz]

Use NIHM batteries which have less of a 'memory effect'.

Buy a charger that has automatic discharge/charge cycles to 'maintain' the batteries at their best, and not overcharge them.

Or switch to new hybrid type rechargeables that do not loose the charge whilst stored. The only sort I use nowadays. Much more convenient. Charge them immediately they are used. Then put them in the draw, or device, till required, and they still don't loose their charge. e.g.
- Uniross Hybrio
- Sanyo Eneloop

[RPupkin]

I bought some Energizer ones in about 2004 and they are still going strong . Well yes the charge is less now but thats pretty good value for money however you look at it.

They get a thumbs up from me.

[mattrixdesign2]

Originally Posted by cas398

Devices like Torches etc are high drain so they require more powerful batteries.

Ideally for high drain devices you want to go about 2500mha Ni-Hm+

For remotes you'll only need about about 1000 mark. Cheaper to pick up as well.

I have only ever bought branded 2500mha or higher, it could well be the case they are past their lifespan, but certainly did not get a 1000 charges.

The Energizer ones I have now are pretty useless now, they are OK just after the charge but run-out not long after. Problem is I now have a mix of Energizer and Uniross all bought at different times, so with out testing each battery I am not too sure which are good or bad

I think I will replace the lot.

Are there any negatives of using hybrid type rechargeables e.g. Uniross Hybrio, Sanyo Eneloop ?

[Vnb]

Another vote here for uniross hybrio lasts for ages in wii motes , remote controls , cameras , etc Also get a decent ish charger. I've tried some of the cheap ones and they don't seem to work very well.

I use one a bit like this Battery Logic UK - Technoline BL-700 intelligent LCD battery charger

[loz]

Originally Posted by vnb

Another vote here for uniross hybrio lasts for ages in wii motes , remote controls , cameras , etc Also get a decent ish charger. I've tried some of the cheap ones and they don't seem to work very well.

I use one a bit like this Battery Logic UK - Technoline BL-700 intelligent LCD battery charger

we must frequent the same forums.
That is exactly the same as me. Hybrio + BL700

I bought a load of Hybrio AA's in John Lewis at £3.99 for 4. Pretty good price.

[Ethics Gradient]

Originally Posted by mattrixdesign2

With having lots of kids toys, remote controls and other battery powered devices I decided a few years ago to move over to rechargeable batteries rather than the normal Duracels (the only brand I bought as they seemed to last longest).

At first the batteries were OK, not brilliant (didn't quite last as long as regular types), but now they are on the verge of being useless, i.e. say I use some fully charged ones in a torch, they can be flat the next time I use them, or even loose charge before I even get to use them. I expect the are getting warn out, but didn't expect them to fail this quickly.

I am not entirely sure if I am using the best charger, and the right batteries in each device, any tips or tricks to get the most, what brands should I look for, what batteries are best for remotes, what are best for motorised toys etc? When ever I look at the options out there it is mind-boggling, different types Ni-Cad etc, different capacity, different chargers etc etc.

As you can see I am not the best at understanding the science behind them, so keep it simple. If I can not get what I need from them I may as well go back to regular types as they seem to last a lot longer.

Afaik - NiCads are best for tv remote controls etc where little power is actually used rarely over long periods of time.

As someone says, NiMh (or Lithion-Ion) are better for high power applications like torches, kids toys, video cameras etc.
They can supply more 'juice' as it were than Ni-Cads in a single application.

.... non of them are great for applications like rechargable torches if u leave the torch in a box off the charger .... they loose there charge over time when left sat.

Ni-Cads hold their charge for the longest when left sat doing nothing, but since they don't hold as much charge as NiMh batteries, in use, they will run out sooner.

The best chargers have trickle charging that keeps them topped up rather than trying to fully charge them repeatedly at full blast as that damages them.
Ie either get a torch that is built to be recharable with its own recharging dock and use Ni-Mh batteries with it - or have the batteries sat in a charger next to the torch so you can drop them in (not a great idea if you have a black out though)

[Flimber]

Originally Posted by loz

...

- Uniross Hybrio
- Sanyo Eneloop

I only entered this thread to mention these. They seem to have a slightly higher voltage and perform far better than normal rechargeables in stuff we have tried them in

Mike.

[Vnb]

Originally Posted by loz

we must frequent the same forums.
That is exactly the same as me. Hybrio + BL700

I bought a load of Hybrio AA's in John Lewis at £3.99 for 4. Pretty good price.

Yep, I got a load from mymemory at some buy 3 for 2 type thing. I actually bought the next model up on the charger - Technoline iCharger - BC900 as it does some super fast charges if needed.

[whatsupdoc]

I've been using the 2500/2600 mAh NIMH from 7dayshop.com for some time, together with one of their chargers. Good performance and price.

[kevandalice]

Aaaaahhh it's lose, not loose

[nheather]

Also not all rechargeable batteries are created equal. I read the results of a recent test which showed a Duracell of around 2000mAh outlast an Energizer of around 2200mAH by a considerable margin.

Test was in an LED torch using fully charged batteries

Duracells lasted 6.5 hours
Energizers lasted 3.5 hours

How accurate the test was and whether it had any bias I can't say.

I have a lot of Energizers - I buy them because they are much cheaper than the competition with much higher capacities. I must admit thinking in the past, how do they make better (on paper) batteries much cheaper than the competition - maybe the answer is that they don't.

Found the link

Gizmodo - Battlemodo: Energizer vs Duracell Rechargeable Batteries - Duracell

Cheers,

Nigel

[clockworks]

Best rechargeables I've tried (and I've tried quite a few) are branded "Instant" and are sold by Vapextech on eBay. Unlike most NiCad and NiMH batteries, they have a very low self-discharge rate. Put them in a digital camera, use a few times, put the camera away for a month and then use it again, they still work.
All the others I've tried will be practically flat after a couple of weeks of inactivity.
I've had 8 AAs in my radio control transmitter for 2 years, and they still work fine.

[Iccz]

Originally Posted by kevandalice

Aaaaahhh it's lose, not loose

Was about to jump out the window til I saw this!!!
Couldn't believe my eyes at how many times I saw loose in the posts!



On topic: take a look at this:
http://www.metaefficient.com/recharg...-chargers.html

[Reign-Mack]

The battery type and the way you treat it is also very important.
NiCad, Li-Ion, LiPo worth reading up on these if you are interested, best to avoid what random people think as its usually wrong.

[clockworks]

Originally Posted by Reign-Mack

The battery type and the way you treat it is also very important.
NiCad, Li-Ion, LiPo worth reading up on these if you are interested, best to avoid what random people think as its usually wrong.

Absolutely.
I got the impression that the OP was talking about AA or AAA. The choice in these sizes is really limited to NiMH or one of the "hybrid" types.

From what I've gathered on RC forums, NiCads are in the process of being banned, so any that are available will be old stock.
LiPo/Lion/A123 are all 3+ volts per cell, so can't be used as drop-in replacements for alkaline batteries.

My experience with NiMH has been that they are extremely "fragile", whereas the hybrid type, with a decent charger, are more like NiCads, but without the high self-discharge.

Where possible, I run all my RC planes and cars on LiPo. 2 years on, I've not had a failure. The last high capacity NiMH cells I bought (4300mAH 2/3 "C" cells) died when I forgot to cycle them for a month. £100 down the drain.

[Fozzybear]

Different NiMH batteries hold charge for different periods, sometimes the disparity can be pretty extreme. I bought some Maplin AA NiMH cells and they'd hold their charge for maybe two weeks tops before completely expiring. Conversely I have some 2000mAh Panasonic NiMH AA cells that seem to last forever. I used a set in a radio and they actually still had charge after a year! I use those in my GPS now and they really do hold charge very well, slightly less well now they're getting older but still very good!

The Uniross Hybrio batteries are really pretty good, especially considering how awful their regular NiMH batteries are!

[nheather]

From what I've gathered on RC forums, NiCads are in the process of being banned, so any that are available will be old stock.
LiPo/Lion/A123 are all 3+ volts per cell, so can't be used as drop-in replacements for alkaline batteries.

That's bad news for RC as NiMh can't match NiCad on internal resistance so can't deliver anything like the current nor be charged as quickly.

I only use NiMh is my transmitter. My receiver packs are all NiCad. My power packs are a mixture of NiCad and LiPo.

LiPo are the only real alternative for high current delivery but can't be charged anywhere near as quick as NiCads and you need to take care to keep the cells in balance during charge - and watch you don't discharge them too much.

Cheers,

Nigel

[clockworks]

Originally Posted by nheather

That's bad news for RC as NiMh can't match NiCad on internal resistance so can't deliver anything like the current nor be charged as quickly.

I only use NiMh is my transmitter. My receiver packs are all NiCad. My power packs are a mixture of NiCad and LiPo.

LiPo are the only real alternative for high current delivery but can't be charged anywhere near as quick as NiCads and you need to take care to keep the cells in balance during charge - and watch you don't discharge them too much.

Cheers,

Nigel

You're right - my experience of NiMH in RC cars (1/10 buggies and touring cars) has been dire. I never charge above 1C, but most of my packs die within a year. The exception has been some really cheap 3700mAH stick packs that I reconfigured for 4-cell Mardave V12 racing. These are very reliable. I got these from Vapextech (same place as the only reliable AA NiMH that I own).

My car Tx (KO Mars) is fitted with an 8 AA adaptor, so I use the "Instant" hybrids. Not sure what's in my plane Tx (Futaba 7C).

All my flight packs are LiPo, as are my current buggy packs.

I'm guessing that you fly nitro if you're using NiCads?

[nheather]

I'm guessing that you fly nitro if you're using NiCads?

Yep nitro for all my fixed wing and my Raptor 50 helicopter.

LiPo for my TRex 450 helicopter and a Blade CX2 which I need to sell as I don't use much now.

My son has a nitro buggy and an old tamiya Nicad one.

Batteries for my glow starts are NiCad and for my engine starter Lead-Acid.

My son has a rotostart for his buggy which works off a Nicad buggy pack.

Next purcahse will be a park flyer Spitfire (or Mustang) as I have some spare LiPos that need a job to do

Cheers,

Nigel