Quote:
Originally Posted by bparkes 2 of them  good work.
I fear I have a LOT more reading to do...  |
For any conventional design (sealed, reflex ...) it can be a good idea to pick the box volume and desired tuning, then find the best driver that works.
Bigger volume means better efficiency, and is a large step on the way to smaller distortion. Of course, going from a long-throw driver to an extremely-long-throw one can gain back a bit.
If you can live with, say 100L, and use a decent driver, it will likely work better than almost anything in a 30L box.
In the end I found a Monolith (around 100L) was so close to what I wanted that building one was not really worth it, even with all the fun to be had.
You should also try to find evidence that the driver parameters you read in the data sheets are close to reality - sometimes that is not so (due to changes in design that don't make it through to the datasheets perhaps). Best to find a sub using the driver, and showing measured performance that you are happy with (commercial or DIY).
(BYW I'm not commenting about any manufacturer in particular here. )
Tactics may also depend on the type and amount of EQ you are prepared to do (either simple "theoretical" EQ based on box models and room size, or measurement-based EQ, when there is the chance of better integration and perhaps a little more room for minor tuning errors).
Deciding some of these up front may help convergence on a design.
Ken