[deansocial]

As the title suggests, how do i built a decent sub?

I have no idea how to do it and what the components for this cost, so fire away

[banners]

For pure simplicity and a very reasonable cost the Monolith is difficult to beat. However if you have the room and the inclination (from your other thread I know you've got the skill) you could find a suitable driver, make yourself a box and stuff in one of BK's sub amps:
BSB

But if you're amp sorts out the bass management sufficiently you could use a mono amp to drive the sub:
Modules

The Monolith driver is available:
Monolith Drive Unit

There is numerous projects out there. What budget and space can you accommodate?
From there you can start to narrow you choices.

HTH for now,
Steve

[b33k34]

I really can't see that it's worth it. A 300w BK panel is £200 and the 10" peerless drive unit £90. That's £290 total.

BK sell the drive unit, in a box, painted and finished to a high standard, with feet and a 275w amp for £295.

[IronMonkeyPimp]

I made my own sub box, I used:

1, Pioneer TS-W121SPL

a 4th order bandpass box with the help of:
LinearTeam

one of these:
Subwoofer-Aktivweiche B1 - profi hifi Vertriebsgesellschaft m.b.H.

and an old amp I had lying around.

It would rattle the doors and my attic lid and even vibrate the door handles, so I had to brace everything down and tighten screws. But I dont think it was very audiophile

Ive got three other subs, an ADS HT12PS, a VIBE ZETA 15 inch sub and a Vibe BETA 10 inch sub, all HT subs, not home made. Ive got one connected to my centre, one to my fronts and one LFE channel in front of my sofa and the homemade one behind my sofa.

The "HouseWrecker" also looks appealing
DECWARE's House Wrecker - High Output Subwoofer


Ive recently asked BK ELEC if they can make me something that can fill / pressurise a 6 x 6 metre HT room planned for my new house. I wanted an Epik Conquest or Elemental Designs sub (with the 2 18's), but there not available here.

[tahirti3]

If this is something you enjoy doing,then don't worry about what you can get ready made.
we are a little limited in drive unit choice over here but i would suggest a jbl w10gti or w12gti.have a look on that auction site.can be had for a bargain price.
amp wise,if you want simple go for the biggest bk amp you can afford.
go with the suggested ported or bandpass box.
if you want really high spl as well as quality go for a pro amp and crossover.
you know the wood won't cost much and no point in worrying about your time and sweat,its a labour of love for some of us

[Moonfly]

This thread may be of interest:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/subwo...s12-build.html

[tahirti3]

the rythmik stuff is nice, i just got their new 600 watt amp.you do have to import the stuff though.
the bits i have suggested are really good and easily available.

[bilba]

I'm from Australia, so have access to different components to you, but have written of my experiences in building nine subs. Should give you some ideas anyway...

[Russell.Williams]

Originally Posted by deansocial

As the title suggests, how do i built a decent sub?

I have no idea how to do it and what the components for this cost, so fire away

Funny you should say this, but I've been investigating this for some while and have started down the DIY path by investing in the power tools necessary to do the job.

This is possibly not the answer you wanted, but without the right tools, good intentions are a non starter.

I tend to buy tools on principle of "buy the best ones once and thus have bought a Trend Plunge Router and a Makita Circular Saw.

I work in construction and these are the 240v equivalents of the tools that several professional tradesmen recommended for the relatively light duties an amateur sub builder will demand. The Trend router in particular was a recurring recommendation. DIYers may have another idea or two, but I'll stick with the pros.

After that, if we consider that MDF is the material of choice for the box and that you will finish it (veneer, paint, whatever) however you choose, then the only important bits left are the size of box you can accommodate, the optimal driver to install in it and the amplifier to drive it.

That bit is tricky and can only be solved with intensive Googling and visits to DIYAudio and their search function. Post your requirements here (dimensions, budget, etc) and people with more experience than me may link to useful threads.

Russell

[deansocial]

cheers for that russ. Tools arent a prob for me as i have a van full of festool gear and access to a workshop if needed

[deansocial]

no progress yet but im in no rush. thinking of a cyindrcal shaped sub now. what are your thoughts on this used with the bk mon components? ported?

[Moonfly]

Cylinders are used to give a smaller footprint, but this leads to a taller sub. They are usually lighter than their box counterparts because a cylinder is naturally a stronger shape. When Ive tested a box against a cylinder though, I found the box to just sound better, but thats just my personal opinion.

Is there a particular you want a cylinder?

[IronGiant]

Your experience of a box against a cylinder doesn't mean the entire cylinder concept is doomed to failure Dan also, just my opinion...

Dave

[deansocial]

Originally Posted by Moonfly

Cylinders are used to give a smaller footprint, but this leads to a taller sub. They are usually lighter than their box counterparts because a cylinder is naturally a stronger shape. When Ive tested a box against a cylinder though, I found the box to just sound better, but thats just my personal opinion.

Is there a particular you want a cylinder?

i guess just because i can. thought it would be a fun project

[IronGiant]

No reason not to IMHO but I'm biased

[deansocial]

just need to think of a design and size. 450mm and 700mm tall will give about 90L, what about porting?

[Moonfly]

Originally Posted by IronGiant

Your experience of a box against a cylinder doesn't mean the entire cylinder concept is doomed to failure Dan also, just my opinion...

Dave

i would never suggest, otherwise. i would however like to point to the 3 people i convinced to try a box who owned cylinders all agreed, as well as a half admission from ed at svs as well. dont take my word for it though, no other cylinder owners did, even though they hadnt tested both as i did.

still, feel free to build what you want. the cylinders are still good subs

[gperkins1973]

Defo agree with Moonfly. I have test both the PC12 plus and the PC ultra and they both chuffed like mad.

If you are going to me a cylinder please make sure you use a large enough port, say about 3 feet in diameter

cheers

Graham

[Moonfly]

Originally Posted by deansocial

just need to think of a design and size. 450mm and 700mm tall will give about 90L, what about porting?

The cabinet size will be dependant on the drivers you choose. Whether to use ports or not depends on what you want to achieve with your sub, what type of sub you want and what your performance goals are and how you want to achieve these. If you decide you want a ported sub, this will likely slightly affect your driver choice as some work better with ported cabinets than others.

It sounds a little like you've just decided you would like to try building your self a sub, but have not yet worked out what your goals are. For me, it was these goals that brought me to the decision to try a self build.

I think you need to really think about what you want from your sub first, then move forward from there. Think about that, then post your thoughts, from that I can probably give you my thoughts better and then aim some relevant questions your way. Those answers will probably bring us to the starting point of what your going to build.

FYI, the general consensus is that the choice between box and cylinder is nothing more than an aesthetic one. Despite what I think, your probably best working on that assumption when choosing what you want , and I wouldnt argue with that. It is still very realistic to construct a very good cylinder sub so dont let my comment deter you.

[IronGiant]

Originally Posted by gperkins1973

If you are going to me a cylinder please make sure you use a large enough port, say about 3 feet in diameter

cheers

Graham

[Moonfly]

Originally Posted by gperkins1973

Defo agree with Moonfly. I have test both the PC12 plus and the PC ultra and they both chuffed like mad.

If you are going to me a cylinder please make sure you use a large enough port, say about 3 feet in diameter

cheers

Graham

This just gave me an idea, what about a cylinder with the main driver firing down, then a PR in the top. I wander if that would work, if so it would remove any chuffing concerns. Even opposing drivers would work well, and it may even allow the cylinder to have 2 configurations, stood up or lying down.

[deansocial]

Originally Posted by Moonfly

This just gave me an idea, what about a cylinder with the main driver firing down, then a PR in the top. I wander if that would work, if so it would remove any chuffing concerns. Even opposing drivers would work well, and it may even allow the cylinder to have 2 configurations, stood up or lying down.

i di think about 2 drivers but would that mean increaseing in size? What you mean by PR in top

[Moonfly]

Originally Posted by deansocial

i di think about 2 drivers but would that mean increaseing in size? What you mean by PR in top

Use a passive radiator instead of ports. It would mean a size increase wouldnt be necessary, and it would probably be smaller than a ported sub.

Before you decide on that though, take a look at this:

Audio Innovation - by Dan Marx www.danmarx.org

Use that to decide which type of sub would be best for you, and then take it from there IMO.

[deansocial]

think i wil go with a PR i there then as that looks a good idea and sounds like it is east to tune. I think i will have the sub stood up behind the sofa just because ive got 20 little poking fingers in this house and that would be the safest place unless i put grills on it and have it lying down at the front of the room.

Thinking of using the peerless XLS 10 driver and matching PR.

Thoughts?

[gperkins1973]

PR's still have their limits like drivers so I don't think that would work either. Alot of people use 18" drivers for cylinders in America, so that way you could go wider, say 20" and have a single 8" port. Not sure how that would sound. I hate cylinders, bad design personally.

Decent sized ported box is going to be much better.

Graham

[Moonfly]

Its no uncommon to use multiple PRs though. In any case, a ported or PR sub if well designed, will work well. It makes the designing more complicated though, and is harder to get it right. Its because of this that its good to start with a sealed sub. Getting good performance out of a sealed sub, to match that of ported ones etc, meaning large drivers and more power.

Whatever you try build though, we'll do our best to help, or get you the help

[IronGiant]

Originally Posted by gperkins1973

I hate cylinders, bad design personally.

Graham

I'd call it a personal bias provoked by a bad experience...

A bit like me and dogs...

Dave

[Nimby]

Originally Posted by IronGiant

I'd call it a personal bias provoked by a bad experience...

A bit like me and dogs...

Dave

Don't get me started on dogs...

Cylinders are almost perfect enclosures for those who know how to use them properly. You don't see steam engines with square boilers. Nor any square oil refinery storage tanks or gasometers. The latter are probably a bit before your time, Graham.

Only hollow spheres improve on cylinders but we wouldn't want you to be accused of owning a subwoofer which looked like a load of old spheres.

Another form which might be pressed into domestic subwoofer enclosure service is the dome. Which is available readymade in suitable sizes as bottle recycling containers in thick GRP.

Ironically (?) MDF boxes are by far the worst possible form for a subwoofer but better match old fashioned people's idea of "real" domestic furniture.

[hoppaz]

Originally Posted by Russell.Williams

Funny you should say this, but I've been investigating this for some while and have started down the DIY path by investing in the power tools necessary to do the job.

This is possibly not the answer you wanted, but without the right tools, good intentions are a non starter.

I tend to buy tools on principle of "buy the best ones once and thus have bought a Trend Plunge Router and a Makita Circular Saw.

I work in construction and these are the 240v equivalents of the tools that several professional tradesmen recommended for the relatively light duties an amateur sub builder will demand. The Trend router in particular was a recurring recommendation. DIYers may have another idea or two, but I'll stick with the pros.

After that, if we consider that MDF is the material of choice for the box and that you will finish it (veneer, paint, whatever) however you choose, then the only important bits left are the size of box you can accommodate, the optimal driver to install in it and the amplifier to drive it.

That bit is tricky and can only be solved with intensive Googling and visits to DIYAudio and their search function. Post your requirements here (dimensions, budget, etc) and people with more experience than me may link to useful threads.

Russell

The tools aren't cheap so are "Russ Williams" going to become new subs to buy?

[IronGiant]

Originally Posted by Nimby

Only hollow spheres improve on cylinders but we wouldn't want you to be accused of owning a subwoofer which looked like a load of old spheres.

I think graham would be very pleased if his sub was described thus:

Dog's ********



Dave