London At 6am

hernando · 06-04-2007, 7:18 AM

I when out early today to try my new 24-105 L IS lens...
No editing or PP on any of the pictures, I was hopping for better pictures no as sharp as I wanted. all picures handheld IS on

Any Comments Please ... how can take shaper pictures ?
01 Exp 3.2 Sec @ f22

02 Wild Flores Exp 1/15 Sec @ f4

03 Exp 1/2 Sec @ f22

04 Exp 1/125 Sec @ f8

05 Garden Flowers Exp 1/60 Sec @ f4

06 Exp 1/10 Sec @ f13

More Pictures Here http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/hernandoz/SunRise6am

Thanks for looking

Peakoverload · 06-04-2007, 7:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hernando

I when out early today to try my new 24-105 L IS lens...
No editing or PP on any of the pictures, I was hopping for better pictures no as sharp as I wanted. all picures handheld IS on

Any Comments Please ... how can take shaper pictures ?
01 Exp 3.2 Sec @ f22

Any tips? Yep. Don't try and hand hold for 3.2 seconds!

IS is good but it can't work miracles. Generally speaking IS will alloww you to hand hold for 2 stops slower than you should be able to. So for example if you are shooting hand held at 100mm this should mean that you use a shutter speed of at least 1/125th to avoid camera shake. With IS this could be reduced to 1/30th.

Don't forget that IS can't fix motion blur so if, for example, a Daffodil is moved by the wind and you are only at 1/15th IS won't make the shot sharp.

If you really need to use shutter speeds like this than use a tripod but don't forget to turn the IS off.

HTH

garysherpa · 06-04-2007, 7:39 AM

ditto what peakoverload said exellent advice

jonnypb · 06-04-2007, 8:03 AM

ditto with the tripod

i think a lens hood would have helped with the glare on the left on your last pic

hernando · 06-04-2007, 9:09 AM

Thanks for your comments

Code:

Any tips? Yep. Don't try and hand hold for 3.2 seconds!

IS is good but it can't work miracles. Generally speaking IS will alloww you to hand hold for 2 stops slower than you should be able to. So for example if you are shooting hand held at 100mm this should mean that you use a shutter speed of at least 1/125th to avoid camera shake. With IS this could be reduced to 1/30th.

Don't forget that IS can't fix motion blur so if, for example, a Daffodil is moved by the wind and you are only at 1/15th IS won't make the shot sharp.

Thanks Peakoverload

Quote:

Originally Posted by bubble502

ditto with the tripod

i think a lens hood would have helped with the glare on the left on your last pic

I did Have The Lens Hood on ....

I understand why the first picture is not so good @3.2 sec but where about the rest ??

Curious Yellow · 06-04-2007, 1:28 PM

The harsh truth is there are very few pictures one can take that look exactly how we want them to look straight out of the camera, especially for amateurs like us.
The rest of your pictures look like they have potential. Especially the last one. But they will need some processing I reckon.

Of course the above is just my opinion.

Mark123 · 06-04-2007, 1:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Curious Yellow

The rest of your pictures look like they have potential. Especially the last one. But they will need some processing I reckon

I agree - the last one has the most potential

**senu** · 06-04-2007, 2:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Curious Yellow

The harsh truth is there are very few pictures one can take that look exactly how we want them to look straight out of the camera, especially for amateurs like us.
The rest of your pictures look like they have potential. Especially the last one. But they will need some processing I reckon.

Of course the above is just my opinion.

Valid opinion too: While it is best to ( try and) get the very best image out of the camera ( takes a lot of practice) , there is no shame in fixing images afterwards as most can look better ( in varying degrees)

The softening has been explained by long exposure. The camera settings also apply some degree of anti aliasing which sharpening in PP, ( using RAW or Jpeg ) can sort out. Some settings also dull contrast and saturation. It is worth experimenting with the different camera settings ( "Picture styles" Canon calls them) or shooting parameters.
If you shoot RAW you can also apply any desired setting to the image within Canons DPP or Raw image task software ( slightly different from cameras settings) before using Photoshop.. ect
The Exposure ( under/ over) can similarly be sorted in camera by using AEB or adjusting the AV comp to vary results

However, all the images look to me as if they have potential

Some PP could squeeze that last ounce of detail and tonal range.

Dodgy PP

Mics49 · 06-04-2007, 5:02 PM

I like the last one's colour and mood. One thing that springs to mind, like me you need to watch your horizon - some are a bit hanging/tilting. Speaking from own experience, I always have a hard time with that, maybe a knick in my very own "lenses".

Keep it up.

**senu** · 06-04-2007, 5:08 PM

Its generally best to get the horizon level but sometimes expediency means taking the picture then later using the free rotate layer tool in PS which can be used to correct it ( as seen in my little pp attempt above)
I deliberately chose one with a really bad tilt

hernando · 06-04-2007, 5:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by senu

Its generally best to get the horizon level but sometimes expediency means taking the picture then later using the free rotate layer tool in PS which can be used to correct it ( as seen in my little pp attempt above)
I deliberately chose one with a really bad tilt

Thanks Senu .. I like the way you crop and rotate the picture... I allways shoot in RAW.. but i did not PP this pictures

To tell the true i was expecting better picture from the L lens .. but i can see is not upto the lens to do all the work but the photograper to take good pictures + some PP after...

I will go out again and take some more pictures .. I bought my canon400D about 3 weeks ago and I taken nearly 1800 pictures....

Thanks for all your comments....

Hernando