[Cadire]

I've been laid up for a couple of weeks (annoying as I haven't had a chance to try out my new 400D), and this has given me plenty of time to think about extra toys I'd like to add to my collection (50mm f1.8, 4Gb CF card, battery grip and RC1 already ordered!).

I got to thinking that it would be nice to have a little home studio for family portraits etc. I was unable to do this in my film days, due to the lack of instant image feedback; my entry into the digital photography world has changed all of that.

I've seen some quite reasonably priced starter kits online, which look ideal for someone like me, but I am unable to make my mind up between the two types (flash and continuous lighting).

Any advice from members on the pros and cons of each type of system would be greatly appreciated.

[wabbitt]

Hi... just spotted this thread and I might be able to help... a little.

I've never used continuous lighting (except the sun!!!) so it's hard to compare. However, I do know of a pretty good article going through it.

Here it is

It doesn't go massively into the difference but I did notice a decent explanation on the very first part of it.

Hope this helps.

Dean

[Cadire]

Interesting article Dean.

Flash lighting does seem more complicated than continuous, but also more controllable (it also looks like a light meter is a must-have piece of kit for this type of photography).

I guess continuous lighting is very suitable for this digital age, but I'm not very keen on having subjects squinting (even if they are the unpaid family type of subjects!).

More research and reading for me I reckon!

[wabbitt]

Originally Posted by Cadire

(it also looks like a light meter is a must-have piece of kit for this type of photography).

Personally I don't use a light meter. With the instant feedback of digital (and the histogram) you can always see straight away if your lighting is correct. Adjust the power (or distance) of the lights and test again.

When you are ready just delete your test shots and go crazy.

I feel that article was written initially about film cameras and has been adapted to include digital.

[barongreenback]

I'd disagree and go with a flash meter. The histogram is fine but a decent flash meter gives you an excellent degree of control. Continuous lighting is very uncomfortable for your subject, both in terms of heat and the brightness. A flash with a modelling lamp will do an excellent job.

[RimBlock]

With a digital camera, a light meter really is not needed.

Have a look over my thread in the link in my sig and it should give you some ideas and examples of results.

Regards
RB

[wabbitt]

Yup. No flash meter.

I actually learnt this from a very succesful photographer located in Birmingham.

He shoots lots of fashion and glamour, almost always in a studio, and he swears by the fact that flash meters don't help him.

Well, since he went from film to a 1Ds MkII.... lucky git.

[redmax]

Whilst I accept my comments are from a novice studio flash user I don't think it is wise to advise another newcomer NOT to learn how to use a flash meter.

I receive tution from a Pro in his studio. He has been using his lights for yonks and knows them. That is what allows him NOT to bother with a meter.

I recently purchased my lights and also a meter. That was good advice from the seller (The Flash centre) and allows me to understand the bigger picture.

Obviously as one gets to know the position and character of the lights one owns, then a meter will probably become less needed.

Cadire - Check out the Elinchrom D-Lite 2 review here

IMHO the best kit for any novice to cut their teeth on..........and yes......buy a meter

regards

[Cadire]

Thanks for the info peeps.

I reckon I will get a meter... if nothing else I can impress my family with my 'professionalism' as I wave it around

[RimBlock]

Originally Posted by redmax

Whilst I accept my comments are from a novice studio flash user I don't think it is wise to advise another newcomer NOT to learn how to use a flash meter.

I receive tution from a Pro in his studio. He has been using his lights for yonks and knows them. That is what allows him NOT to bother with a meter.

I recently purchased my lights and also a meter. That was good advice from the seller (The Flash centre) and allows me to understand the bigger picture.

Obviously as one gets to know the position and character of the lights one owns, then a meter will probably become less needed.

Cadire - Check out the Elinchrom D-Lite 2 review here

IMHO the best kit for any novice to cut their teeth on..........and yes......buy a meter

regards

Hmm, not sure who the first comment is aimed at here but just to clarify, my comment is that the meter is not required which is a little different to saying that the OP should not get one.

I guess it depends on what you aim to do with the photography. Is it a hobby or is it a professional career ?. Is there a studio or is it a spare room in the house or garage. Have you got thousands of £ to throw at it or are you on a tight budget.

Whilst having a flash meter certainly would not hurt, could the money be better spent on other things with a better result. Do you have backgrounds, what lighting do you have, what stands, do you have a white balance card to help manage the colour profiles. How about a good book on portrait photography or lighting techniques.

I think the point I am trying to make is that although a light meter would be required if using film, in the digital era you can use the histogram, instant preview and the ability of erasure from the memory card to correct any mistakes. You can learn by doing and getting a feel for the lighting and camera rather than have a box give you the figures, plug them in to the camera and then just snap away.

Continuous lighting will allow you to use the cameras auto mode to take the shots as the light stays the same throughout. These tend to be tungsten at the lower end of the range and as mentioned can be uncomfortable for the model (try sitting in front of two or three bright torches for 30 minutes). They also generate quite a bit of heat (not so bad for the garage in winter but at any other time it will be very unpleasant). You also have to allow for the hue a tungsten light gives.

Strobe flash will not allow you to meter for it without firing the flash trigger, the metering off the camera is usually taken from the half depression of the shutter release and getting the flash to fire at that instant is a non-starter. So.... take a couple of shots before the model is there to work out the best settings for the camera and then you are in a good position to get reasonable shots when they arrive. Shoot in RAW so you can fine tune in post production.

Jessops produce a couple of good kits for entry level and having used the upper of these two kits you can see the results on my thread. Yep you can get better entry level sets with more control for more money. Do you need that at the moment ?.

An idea of what you are looking to get, what room you have to work in and what sort of budget you will have would help us to give more tailored advice.

Cheers
RB

[Cadire]

My budget is fairly small, around £400 for everything (having said that, I started out intending to buy a Fuji S6500 for £325-ish...now almost £1000 later...)

I want to have a small home studio, more likely than not in the dining room, so it has to be fairly portable. It's purely for pleasure so I don't have any commercial considerations.

Given that it will be indoors I'm a little worried about the heat generated by the continuous systems, mainly for the discomfort it might cause my subjects. However, it does seem the most cost effective, not to mention easiest, way to go. The colour casts can be eliminated in camera or in software, so I'm not too concerned about that. I am concerned that I might, very quickly, outgrow this type of setup (though I have no experience to base this concern on).

The flash systems certainly appeal to the gadget freak in me, and do seem to offer a higher degree of control. Whilst I'm sure I would not be able to take advantage of all that control in the early days I hope to progress to a point where I would.

Of course the flash systems do require more effort to 'get it right' (and there's still the light meter question), but that's not necessarily a bad thing in my opinion (though I am concerned about what triggering device to use with my 400D).

I've looked at the PortaFlash kits, along with Interfit and the very nice Elinchrom starter kits mentioned above... and numerous no-name offerings on eBay, but I'm still undecided as to what I really need as opposed to what I want. Like all things photography related, there's a myriad of accessories ready and waiting to suck up my cash, and I have to restrain myself from getting too carried away!

I'm starting to think that the best thing to do is to pop along to my local camera club and dabble in some studio work before deciding.

Thanks for the replies.

[RimBlock]

The tungsten lights also have one other advantage, you can see the effects of the lighting on the subject at once. Whilst strobe flash have modelling lights (apart from the cheapest of the cheap) they are no where near as powerful as the strobe flash so they can only give an idea of how the light will fall.

They also have another disadvantage. As the subject heats up they will start to sweat which will ruin any makeup they are wearing (mainly in relation the girls although it takes all sorts I suppose ).

To fire the strobe flash there are usually two ways (gadgets can increase this of course). They will usually be tripped by another flash going off so you can fire the onboard flash which will usually set them going. People have reported problems with the preflash setting off strobes if using this technique though. The second is using a sync cable. If the 400D has an x-sync socket then you can use the sync cable to plug in to the back of the flash unit to use as the master and it will go off when you hit the shutter release. The master will trigger the rest like the onboard camera flash would. Using this method takes out any effect of the onboard flash from the lighting scenario you have created..

There are also radio triggers you can buy and IR triggers that go on the hot shoe of the camera using infrared to trigger the flashes but again, these cost more money. If you don't have a x-sync on the 400d then you can get a hot shoe to PC connector in jessops or somewhere like it for a few quid. This creates a bridge between the x-sync cable and the hot shoe enabling the hot shoe to fire the flash. Yes the cable can be a pain but it is by far the cheapest reliable option. You can always upgrade later.

Remember the max x-sync rating of the camera is the highest shutter speed you can take shots at whilst syncing with flash. Above this speed the shutter will encroach on the frame.

Phew, I will stop here for now. I am meant to be working after all
RB

[wabbitt]

Since we are talking about home lighting

This is a VERY interesting read.

Dean

[Cadire]

Great find!

[hutters]

Great find indeed.

Currently 'doing' lighting on the evening course I'm doing, so this will be very helpful.

Cheers Dean

[toadoftoadhall]

Major big big difference between continuous and flash is....

If you want to have less light, what do you do....

Turn the flash power down, thats ok

Turn the voltage down on continuous and you change the colour temp of the light, thats crap.

Moving the light away for less light is not always possible, may be due to physical restrictions ( wall in the way) and it also changes the quality of the light. ie, changes from big diffuse to point light source, giving sharper shadows and greater contrast.

Buy Flash, dont look back.

Also tungsten gets pretty hot in summer months.

toad