 |
|
18-05-2008, 11:03 AM
|
#1 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 447
Thanks: Gave 2, Got 1
|
Filters
I've decided to invest in some filters for my 300D.
I have had clipping problems when trying to smooth water, etc with slow shutters, so some ND filters are top of my list, but I also gather that a CPL filter is very handy.
I understand that they absorb reflections, but that they can also give better colours to sky? Are there times when you wouldn't want to use CPL filters? Is it just a case of trial & error for whatever effect you're after?
I was told that for a CPL filter a good quality one should be bought - so Cokin or Hoya?
What about the ND filters? Should I buy decent ones again, or just go for a no brand one?
I was thinking of ND2 and maybe an ND2 grad.?
I notice that many people leave UV filters on all the time, is this just to protect the lens? Does it have no effect on image? Worthwhile getting quality ones?
Both of my lenses are 58mm, is it worth looking at a holder/filter system, or just individual screw type?
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 11:52 AM
|
#2 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Now hanginaround Aylesbury instead of hanginaround Glasgow
Posts: 2,683
Thanks: Gave 32, Got 204
|
Re: Filters
I'd certainly get a UV as a lens protector first ...
CPL's can enhance sky saturation as well as cutting water reflections - best used when at 90 degrees to sun for maximum impact - but be careful not to over-saturate and make effect look too surreal ...
If you are thinking of an ND grad then you'll need to go for a slip-in system such as Cokin or Lee (v expensive) ... you can use those with a screw-in UV but are more difficult to use with a screw-in CPL as as you turn the CPL for effect you mess up the grad !! ... but you're unlikely to use that combination ...
You can screw the filters one on top of another but be careful not to cause vignetting (ie darkening of the corners of the shots where the edges of the outermost filter start to block the image coming through the lens ...
I'd get a screw UV, screw CPL and a screw ND2 and a slip-in ND grad ...
Jon
__________________
my toys ... Arcam FMJ AV8, P7, DV27A+sdi | B&W 805s & HTM2 | Anthony Gallo Micros & sub | Sanyo Z4 | Samsung LE37R8 | SkyHD | Toshiba HD-E1 | Sony BDP300 | xBox360 Elite | Wii | AppleTV | iMac 3Ghz, MacBookAir (ssd) & MacMini | Nikon D300 & 17-55mm f2.8 | 3G iPhone
Last edited by jont; 18-05-2008 at 11:54 AM.
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 12:00 PM
|
#3 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Lincoln/Edinburgh
Posts: 1,538
Thanks: Gave 398, Got 326
|
Re: Filters
I personally wouldn't bother with a UV filter. Get lens hoods instead. I only use my UV filter (which I got free with my lens) when I'm shooting in a club and as such there's likely to be lots of bumps and sticky drink flying around. I use both a lens hood and UV in that case but otherwise I just find a UV filter a pain in the arse when I'm using other filters.
I'd suggest 58mm screw in and I'd suggest a Hoya CPL and probably a Hoya ND too. The minimum strength ND I'd go for is an ND8 (3 stops). Any less and it's just a waste of money as you can make emulate a lesser density by opening up the aperture or putting up the ISO a stop. Also the CPL will effectively work as a 2 stop ND aswell which means you'd have a 2,3 and 5 stop ND.
The ND effect of the CPL is why you wouldn't keep it on all the time. but they are very usefull filters.
For ND grads you have to go with a filter system like Cokin or Lee but they can get alot more complicated and expensive.
__________________
.......My flickr....... Canon - 40D | 400D | 10-22 | 17-55 F2.8 IS | 50 1.4 | 70-300 F4-5.6 IS | 100 Macro | 430EX |Manfrotto 055MF3 + 804RC2 | Velbon ULTRA LUX i F | Tamrac Adventure 9. Sony T9 (ultracompact)
Links to commercial sites removed by Admin
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 3:43 PM
|
#4 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 447
Thanks: Gave 2, Got 1
|
Re: Filters
I have a hood for one of lenses and do use it, but may well invest in some UV's anyway.
With the slip in systems, if the lens rotates whilst focusing surely that causes a problem?
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 5:24 PM
|
#5 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Oldham, Lancashire
Posts: 84
Thanks: Gave 0, Got 8
|
Re: Filters
All my lenses have Skylight/UV filters on them. Agreed its a bit of a bind when you want to put another filter on, but in the 30 odd years I've been "messing about" with cameras I've had the odd bump and scrape with my lenses, but only ever had to replace one due to a damaged front element. Guess which one didn't have a skylight on the front? (Isn't Sods Law marvellous!) Cost me all of £30 to replace it! (Mind it was a lot to me then, skylights were only a fiver) 
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 8:01 PM
|
#6 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 447
Thanks: Gave 2, Got 1
|
Re: Filters
I've been having a look around and am going to go with the Hoya Pro1 range for UV & CPL, and then maybe get an ND from Hoya as well. I haven't looked into the graduated ND's yet, I have quite a few other bits on my list this month, so have to prioritise!!
One question, do you leave the UV on all the time, then add the other filters on top?
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 11:13 PM
|
#7 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Lincoln/Edinburgh
Posts: 1,538
Thanks: Gave 398, Got 326
|
Re: Filters
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallsy
I've been having a look around and am going to go with the Hoya Pro1 range for UV & CPL, and then maybe get an ND from Hoya as well. I haven't looked into the graduated ND's yet, I have quite a few other bits on my list this month, so have to prioritise!!
One question, do you leave the UV on all the time, then add the other filters on top?
|
That's the problem with using a UV in the first place. You can't stack the filters ontop (at least its best not to) because you will get vignetting. So you have to remove the UV, put it in its box, take out say the ND, put it on, stash the box, take it off and put it away, then get out the box for the UV, put it back on, then put the box away. AT least that's how I felt when using a UV on mine for the total duration of 2 shoots before I got so annoyed with the time wasting!.
__________________
.......My flickr....... Canon - 40D | 400D | 10-22 | 17-55 F2.8 IS | 50 1.4 | 70-300 F4-5.6 IS | 100 Macro | 430EX |Manfrotto 055MF3 + 804RC2 | Velbon ULTRA LUX i F | Tamrac Adventure 9. Sony T9 (ultracompact)
Links to commercial sites removed by Admin
|
|
|
|
18-05-2008, 11:48 PM
|
#8 (permalink)
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Christchurch , New Zealand
Posts: 1,743
Thanks: Gave 33, Got 154
|
Re: Filters
I never bother with UV/protection filters.
Get a cokin CPL and ND's. You wont want the CPL on all the time.
|
|
|
|
19-05-2008, 6:00 AM
|
#9 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 847
Thanks: Gave 611, Got 176
|
Re: Filters
I would have thought a CPL acts as protection anyway for roughly the same price? and if it's landscapes then it won't be off as much, unless your doing panoramas, this and a lens cap I can't see the need for a UV IMHO
__________________
flickr flickriver Redbubble
|
|
|
|
19-05-2008, 6:59 AM
|
#10 (permalink)
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 447
Thanks: Gave 2, Got 1
|
Re: Filters
Good advice guys, I do have hoods for both, and clean the front elements reguarly, so maybe I should drop the UV idea for now.
|
|
|
|
| |