[DanParker]

Hi guys,

I have an Acer M3802 which is randomly restarting. I've determined it's not software related as I've re-installed Windows twice, once with my own disc and again with a friends. There's no pattern of when it does restart but when it does, it sometimes restarts during boot a few times before it loads again.

I've given the inside a good clean and applied new thermal paste to the CPU, and the max temperature is about 50 degrees which I've been told isn't hot by any means. The same for the GPU temp wise.

The only thing that has changed recently is that I've add a 1TB for extra storage but could that cause the PC to reboot even though it's not got Windows installed to it? Or does anyone know how to test individual components through software?

It's not the speediest of things but all I use it for is playing movies connected to my TV, the odd document and iTunes for my phone and iPad so don't want to buy a new PC or replace parts when I don't need to.

Any help will be appreciated.

[EndlessWaves]

Originally Posted by DanParker

The only thing that has changed recently is that I've add a 1TB for extra storage but could that cause the PC to reboot even though it's not got Windows installed to it? Or does anyone know how to test individual components through software?

It might be a lack of power if Acer have cut margins so thin it can't even handle another hard drive after a few years wear - or you may have accidentally knocked or damaged something and not noticed when you were installing it.

You can test the former by disconnecting the drive and seeing if it still does it.

[paulktreg]

Because you've recently added some new hardware I'd just check that you haven't disturbed any wiring or plugs.

Remove and re-seat the memory. Try MEMTEST to see if you have a problem with your ram. (You'll have to create a bootable CD so download the bootable iso and burn it to CD).

[oberdm]

Hi
Remove 1TB drive and then try.

I bet that works as it's proberly a comptable issue or had not installed properly.

[DanParker]

Removed the 1TB hard drive still doing it. It has 6GB of RAM in 2 x 2 and 2 x 1 so removed three and same issue, swapped gem around so the original 3 was removed and swapped and still doing it. Now seems to be struggling to get past boot at all now.

Thinking possibly PSU now but don't know if it would boot at all if it was faulty?

[maddogb]

Originally Posted by DanParker

Removed the 1TB hard drive still doing it. It has 6GB of RAM in 2 x 2 and 2 x 1 so removed three and same issue, swapped gem around so the original 3 was removed and swapped and still doing it. Now seems to be struggling to get past boot at all now.

Thinking possibly PSU now but don't know if it would boot at all if it was faulty?

yeah sometimes the psu's don't just completely die so maybe worth a shot to connect a spare known working psu if you can.
Remove all non essential hardware and try doing an install on the new hdd to rule out the existing one.
Temp of cpu whilst not "hot" idling is certainly not super low either so make sure you monitor rises as the OS boots etc
might be worth a shot resetting bios to default as well, disconnect all psu leads to board and use cmos reset jumper or pull the battery for 5 mins

[Dingo]

Definitely your psu I'd say as they came with a 330W which was non PFC so you'll be losing a percentage of the power output anyway.........get yourself a good quality 450\500W psu and that should do the trick!

[DanParker]

Tried new install, reset CMOS and still rebooting so going to get a new PSU.

Does anyone think this is a good one to go for? Seems decent enough and cheap enough...

http://www.maplin.co.uk/powercool-mo...iciency-629194

[maddogb]

nah not one i would pick tbh, can u not borrow one to be sure?, its a shame to spend £30 to find out its a mainboard fault or even worse scenario the new one arrives faulty (rare but possible) otherwise
FSP HEXA 400W PSU: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

[brookheather]

Normally I would recommend a quality £35+ PSU but if you only want to spend £10 then this PSU is probably OK and you can easily return to Amazon if you want:

ACE 400W PSU with 12cm Fan and SATA 24-Pin Model - Grey: Amazon.co.uk: Amazon Warehouse Deals

[DanParker]

The main reason I mentioned the Maplin one is just for the fact it's on the high street and could get one today. However a mate has one to test but it has no SATA connectors so will have to go Maplin anyway for a converter just to test if it is the PSU.

Thanks for the help, will let you know how I get on.

[EndlessWaves]

Originally Posted by Dingo

Definitely your psu I'd say as they came with a 330W which was non PFC so you'll be losing a percentage of the power output anyway.........get yourself a good quality 450\500W psu and that should do the trick!

Err, what?

Power supplies are rated on their output power so even if it's using a different method to keep harmonics down (as required by law) that results in less efficiency the only thing that's change is that it'll draw more power from the socket, not output less than 330W.

Originally Posted by DanParker

Does anyone think this is a good one to go for? Seems decent enough and cheap enough...

Powercool Modular 650W PSU 80+ Dual 12V V2.2 High Efficiency : PC Power Supplies : Maplin Electronics

650W for £30 is unrealistic and it's likely to be poor quality and incapable of delivering claimed capacity within ATX spec. While it may work at the lower loads you're looking at I wouldn't recommend encouraging bad practice and you don't know what the failure protection is like. Looking at the maplin website they do have XFX which are reasonable PSUs so if you can find a 350-400W model in the local shop for a similar price then that would be a better bet.

[DanParker]

Well... Borrowed my mates spare who said I can have it and happens to be near exact same model of PSU and not restarted yet so fingers crossed.

[Dingo]

Originally Posted by EndlessWaves

Err, what?
Power supplies are rated on their output power so even if it's using a different method to keep harmonics down (as required by law) that results in less efficiency the only thing that's change is that it'll draw more power from the socket, not output less than 330W.

Not quite so young padawan.......the psu's used in those pc's were NON PFC.....

"Non-PFC power supplies use a capacitive filter at the AC input. This results in rectification of the AC line, causes high peak currents at the crests of the AC voltage. These peak currents lead to excessive voltage drops in the wiring and imbalance problems in the three-phase power delivery system. The full energy potential of the AC line is not utilized. Nonlinear peak currents also distort output voltage and create harmonics. There is an international standard for controlling harmonics (IEC100-3-2) and PFC is mandatory for home appliances consuming 70W or more power in EU nations as of January, 2001."


....back to the problem......I would get a non modular branded psu Dan, something like an antec, enermax or corsair in their value ranges and give that Powercool a miss for now.

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[DanParker]

Thanks for the help guys. If this PSU fails then I will probably look into one of those brands Dingo. For now however the PSU my friend has kindly given me will do as its the same as the original and does the job I want it for and so far hasn't failed

[EndlessWaves]

Good to hear you've found the problem, and a free solution to it

Originally Posted by Dingo

N"Non-PFC power supplies use a capacitive filter at the AC input. This results in rectification of the AC line, causes high peak currents at the crests of the AC voltage. These peak currents lead to excessive voltage drops in the wiring and imbalance problems in the three-phase power delivery system. The full energy potential of the AC line is not utilized. Nonlinear peak currents also distort output voltage and create harmonics. There is an international standard for controlling harmonics (IEC100-3-2) and PFC is mandatory for home appliances consuming 70W or more power in EU nations as of January, 2001."

As that was copied from SilentPCReview it applies to PCs so do you have a source showing that a PC sold circa 2009 is breaking the law by using a non-PFC power supply?

The service guide for that PC lists it as having 'Active PFC 220V for EMEA and China'.

The ATX spec allows a maximum of 5% voltage distortion (at 12v) so even if it they were breaking the law or this is a machine from a different region it's likely you're only going to see +-10W fluctuation in capacity.