Installing new Tubes on Seleco 400

[justinhewelt]

I've managed to track down some replacement tubes for my Seleco 400+ which were pretty burnt and worn. I've removed the old tubes and fitted the new ones with all the coils and adjusters as they were previously (as far as I can see). I've got some soldering to do on the connectors under the suction cups (although I need to check which connector is red and which is green) but I need some advice as to how to do any adjustments that might be required...now the tubes are fitted and any safety tips you can provide!

For now, I have the seleco on a table with the lenses removed.

So I'd really appreciate some advice on the following:

1) Do I need to tell my Seleco that I'm putting new tubes in? (The menus show tube working hours) or will it know and adjust the working time itself?

2) Is the precise placing of the coils on the tube highly critical? If they are half a milimetre out, will this make it impossible to set up and focus the tube properly? I've used the blue tube which I'm not replacing as a guide.

3) With the focus adjustments at the rear of the tube. How should I adjust to get the optimal result? And how can I adjust them safely without killing myself?

Many thanks,

Justin

[Mad Mr H]

Hi,

1) Tubes hours - I would just make a note of the time you replaced which tubes - AS the tubes you are putting in are NOT NEW it is wrong to zero the tube times as this would imply in the future incorrect info to a buyer.

The PJ wont know you have changed the tubes.......Its clever but not that clever.

Chassis time can not be changed so to change tube hours has no use to you. The unit chassis time will always show the full use time.

Tube condition is usually more important than actual run time in these sets....

2)Check out astig setup, deflection coil and focus threads for info

3)If you are not sure what you are doing DONT DO IT - LEATAL VOLTAGES in the set will NOT give you a second chance

(There is also a FAQ sticky that might be of help to you - though it is still a work in progress)

[Chris Frost]

Originally Posted by justinhewelt

1) Do I need to tell my Seleco that I'm putting new tubes in? (The menus show tube working hours) or will it know and adjust the working time itself?

The timer doesn't need to be reset. Just make a note of the run time when the tubes were changed for if you ever come to sell the projector. The reset facility is only available via the engineers mode and there's other stuff in there that can kill your projector so best to leave well alone.

2) Is the precise placing of the coils on the tube highly critical? If they are half a milimetre out, will this make it impossible to set up and focus the tube properly? I've used the blue tube which I'm not replacing as a guide.

The coils affect the raster size and it's rotation on the tube face. Set the coil position so that the raster does not go over the tube edges. You'll need to do this with a line doubled 4:3 signal and the H&V size controls set to 100%.

Don't be tempted to fiddle about with the coil position too much with the projector on. The coils can magnetise to tubes and then it'll be really difficult to converge.

3) With the focus adjustments at the rear of the tube. How should I adjust to get the optimal result? And how can I adjust them safely without killing myself?

Look up astigmatic adjustment in this forum and at Curt Palme's site.

Many thanks,

Justin

Regards

[Mad Mr H]

Nearly forgot about that . DUH!

www.curtpalme.com

[justinhewelt]

The Yoke and Astig process went pretty smoothly. My RED tube is pin sharp with the dots and 'H's of the Seleco test cards.

I've got the Green focussed as well so the dots are round, but it there's not the same contrast level as the red.

Is this normal for a green tube, or should I have a black screen with just some green dots?

At the moment the whole tube is fairly light. Should I experiment with the astig controls further to improve that contrast, or should I look at the distance between the yokes and the astigs?

What would cause an overall lightness of the screen?

Many thanks for your advice so far.

Justin

[Chris Frost]

The G2's need adjusting, and finally the RGB Cuts and Gains.

For lack of a better description the G2 governs the background level of each tube. It's possibly why the green tube looks washed out.

The Cuts and Gains are to do with colour balance. There is some overlap in the way they work, but in essence the Cuts affect the colour balance from 0 to 50% brightness, Gains work from 50% up.

Regards

[justinhewelt]

A quick tweak of the G2 (top middle adjuster?) on the green got things looking more ship-shape. I'll search a bit more on cuts and gains on the web to understand that a bit better. Cheers for your help. Maybe I have missed my vocation in life and should have been a CRT engineer!?!

[morksbeanbag]

I'm also sat in tonight working on my CRT. Anyone know where to measure the 4.0v on the g2 on a Sony VPH-1272QM?

[Mad Mr H]

Originally Posted by justinhewelt

Maybe I have missed my vocation in life and should have been a CRT engineer!?!

ten years too late my friend.



And maybe 5 mins more practice and you will be be amung the best. Thank God you were here to help us all

[morksbeanbag]

Do i detect a hint of sarcasm? There's nothing wrong with abit of enthusiasm you know.