[sutton8]

Originally Posted by MarkusThatch

Out of interest how have you connected your 1912 to your home network?

Just an ordinary LAN cable directly into my Virgin Media Router. There was nothing else required.

There isn't a wireless option as far as I am aware.

[jonhklee]

I had numerous problems when I connected the Denon directly to my BT homehub 2.0. After researching on web, most issues are with routers, then experimented with a netgear Ethernet switch (from Amazon), network issues all but disappeared. Not sure whether it will help you or not.

[russ9898]

Hi,

Recently purchased my 1912 however im now having problems where when i choose to use the net/usb or my xbox (xbox is an old one with component video and optical audio) i have nothing on screen. All's i can on net/usb is a black screen and it plays the last station i listened to.

Any ideas how i can cure this or do a factory reset?

Thanks,

Russ

[sutton8]

Originally Posted by russ9898

Any ideas how i can cure this or do a factory reset?

Page 126 in the manual explains how to do a factory reset. You need to press the buttons on the unit not the remote control.

1 Turn off the power using ON/STANDBY.
2 Press ON/STANDBY while simultaneously pressing PRESET CHANNEL 2 and
PRESET CHANNEL 3.
3 Once the display starts flashing at intervals of about 1 second, release the two
buttons.

[russ9898]

Thanks for the reply. I managed to stumble across that when i remembered manuals have the troubleshooting section lol.

Seems to have fixed my problems. At least this will flag up in google now when idiots like myself cant be bothered to look through the manual lol

[sutton8]

Still delighted with the amp but first tiny letdown was that the audessey badly miscalculated the distance of my sub despite going through it twice. Seems to insist it is 7m away from the main listening point whereas it is 3.5m. Speaker calcs were fine. Not a biggy and easily changed but has anyone else experienced inaccuracy like this?

Gonna get a soundmeter tomorrow so I can set the levels myself.

[jimmiknicks]

Definitely read a few times this is a common occurrence something to do with electrics on the sub so it thinks it's further away than it is, just turn your sub down a notch then re run the test till its under 12db mines around 11db and it's 3.5m away I think I started at 13 when the volume on my sub was set at 12oclock now it's at 11.

[russ9898]

Im afraif to say ive returned my 1912 today. It was disappointing to say the least. Not what i expected from Denon having previously owned a 3805. Ive instead put an extra £50 towards an Onkyo TXNR609. Sorry to say guys but the Onkyo is i a league ahead of the Denon in all aspects.

[sutton8]

Originally Posted by russ9898

Im afraif to say ive returned my 1912 today. It was disappointing to say the least. Not what i expected from Denon having previously owned a 3805. Ive instead put an extra £50 towards an Onkyo TXNR609. Sorry to say guys but the Onkyo is i a league ahead of the Denon in all aspects.

Shame you did not enjoy it. The main reason I did not buy the Onkyo is that I previously had a 508 which lasted just over 9 months until the hdmi board gave out. You might say that that is just bad luck and could happen with kit from any brand, which is true, but the US amazon site was full of similar stories. So I went for the Denon and am pleased. It is not as loud as some amps Ive owned but that does not matter as Im restricted at what volume i can play anyway.

Good luck with your new amp.

[satwelsh]

I think its all down to personal choice, but having owned several onkyo amps, I have just purchased the denon 1912 and must say the sound quality is much better than the onkyo for the setup i have.

What is one mans skoda is another mans rolls royce??

[sutton8]

Originally Posted by jimmiknicks

Definitely read a few times this is a common occurrence something to do with electrics on the sub so it thinks it's further away than it is, just turn your sub down a notch then re run the test till its under 12db mines around 11db and it's 3.5m away I think I started at 13 when the volume on my sub was set at 12oclock now it's at 11.

Thanks for that I suspected that subs may be a bit more troublesome because of their electronics. Anyway been to Maplins this morning got a 40 quid sound meter and all the speakers now say around 75db, which is normal listening. Perhaps it is always best to refine it yourself.

[sutton8]

Check what I just said about 75db, it blasts at that level, as I just found out. The stuff I read said 75 was the reference level so I set the volume to zero and then made sure all the speakers and sub returned around that value, having let the audessey calculate the distances. I then turned the volume right down to watch tv lol.

Frankly it does sound more complete and whole with this manual tweek. It's noticably better and I was pleased enough before.

[jungleguru]

I'm considering getting this Amp, but cannot decide what speaker package to go for. I've narrowed it down to 2 choices -

1) Tannoy HTS101 or
2) Q Acoustics 2000 Cinema

Ideally if budget & space would allow, I'd go for the B&W 685 cinema, or the Acoustic Energy Aegis Neo V2, but it is a smallish living room, and there is no space behind the sofa. I've heard the Acoustic Energy Aegis Neo V2 with this amp at a mate's house and it's stunning, so I'm looking for something that is Almost as good.

With the HTS101, if I find the sound doesn't fill the room, I can upgrade at a later point to the HTS towers to make it 7.1. Same with the Q Acoustics, there is possibility to upgrade to the 2020 bookshelves instead of the 2010s.

Best deal I've found is at Peter Tyson, but which one's should I go for?

Denon AVR1912 with Tannoy HTS101

Denon AVR1912 with Q Acoustics 2000 Cinema

[Bachelor Boy]

Hi,
For the menu button to work, try pressing the Amp button on the remote first and then press the menu button. It should work fine.

[Bachelor Boy]

Hi,
Bought my Denon AVR 1912 a couple of weeks back. Works like a charm.
Now, I was trying out Bi-amping option in the AVR but couldn't notice much of a difference in sound. Is there any separate setting for this?
My current setup is:
Denon AVR 1912
JBL E90 (front)
JBL EC25 (center)
JBL E150P (sub)
Infinity Primus 150 (surrounds)

[JeroenTop]

Hi all,

My 1912 just told me it has a firmware update available.
Anyone knows what is in it? Tx

Kr,

Jeroen

[Rob100]

Since getting a 3805 I have only purchased Denon receivers (well I do have an old Onkyo, but I really hate the receiver, so we will ignore that!). I still use the 3805 (for PC and PS3/360) and have a 3808 in my Cinema Room.

I just picked up a 1912 for the lounge and I'm feeling rather underwhelmed by it.

One of the main reasons I went for the 1912 was for the networking (and network control) and Airplay.

Airplay generally works fine and I was experiencing long start-up times before I could use internet radio as it went through a repeated cycle of "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait", but now after a network reset (as instructed at the top of this thread) it only does this once, but still takes 40+ seconds or more before the receiver is useable. Before anyone asks I do have Network Standby set to ON.

However my major issue is once I power it off using the web GUI, the iPhone app (or a 3rd party app) or through the telnet interface (using PuTTY or a PHP script) the network seems to die for 2 or 3 mins (sometime more) before I can communicate with the 1912 again and power it back on should I need to. And then when it does power up it's another 40+ seconds wait whilst it goes through the "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait" procedure.

I've tried setting a static IP rather than using DHCP, but it's the same lengthy start-up.

Is this normal? If so it's a joke. No such issues with my 3808 and I can toggle the power over the network as quick as I want to.

Really need some help on this as if this is normal, it will have to go back.

Thanks,

Rob.

[newirishman]

Originally Posted by Bachelor Boy

Hi,
Bought my Denon AVR 1912 a couple of weeks back. Works like a charm.
Now, I was trying out Bi-amping option in the AVR but couldn't notice much of a difference in sound. Is there any separate setting for this?
My current setup is:
Denon AVR 1912
JBL E90 (front)
JBL EC25 (center)
JBL E150P (sub)
Infinity Primus 150 (surrounds)

I wouldn't expect to hear any difference when bi-amping the fronts.
I would even tend to say that it is a waste of cable to do so.
Unless you are hitting any problems with your setup (which can probably be solved by other things), I would not bother with the bi-amp.

[lesarros]

Originally Posted by JeroenTop

Hi all,

My 1912 just told me it has a firmware update available.
Anyone knows what is in it? Tx

Kr,

Jeroen

Not to me!I found a firmware ypdate before 2 months than i bought it,Nothijng new today!Are you set up the avr for 1st time today?

[Ian Dudley]

Originally Posted by newirishman

I wouldn't expect to hear any difference when bi-amping the fronts.
I would even tend to say that it is a waste of cable to do so.
Unless you are hitting any problems with your setup (which can probably be solved by other things), I would not bother with the bi-amp.

Depends whether you are talking about bi-wiring or bi-amping. I would agree with you for wiring, but unlike many spurious hifi tweaks, bi amping has some sensible logic behind it and I can certainly hear a difference on my 1907 which is setup this way.

Bi amping is more than just running two sets of wire, you are connecting the bass driver of the speaker to a different power amp than that of the mid driver and tweeter. So the amp doing those has more power available to it as it isn't having to use lots of power to driver the bass. It's a similar process to getting an active sub and setting your speakers to 'small'.

It's not a huge difference, but I can certainly hear more clarrity in the mids and highs for doing it, especially with bass heavy audio, and unless you have very expensive speaker wire (which is a lot more dubious an upgrade IMHO), or unusualy long runs to your mains, it's fairly cheap too.

To the OP, rather than just running two sets of wire from the same posts, you have to find a spare pair of posts you aren't using, e.g. the 6 and 7 posts if you are using 5.1 speakers rather than the full 7.1, or the zone 2 outputs (I think you can use either), then make sure the amp assignments are properly set on the Amp so the pair you have chosen is assigned as a bi amp for the mains. I think you'll hear a difference with this, and assuming you aren't using those additional outputs it's a very cheap upgrade as you obiously already have the wire! Oh and without wishing to state the obvious, make sure the connecting bars are removed on the back of your speakers!

[cantillon]

Just set up my 1912 last all fine except every so often get the hdcp error on my screen when watcjing sky. Never had it till I installed last night sometimes works for a good while then stops. Have rebooted and starts working again but eventuall (could be an hour or so) comes back. Is it understood that using hdmi 1 on the back of reciever cures the problem ? Could always use component from sky box but would feel a little cheated all is not working correctly. Anyone found a cure to this please ?

Regards Mike.

[jjlp]

Hi all

I'm new to this forum and have just purchased the devon avr-1912 and have some questions that I hope you all can help answering,

first problem is that when I'm connecting my samsung bd-6500 to the hdmi input hdmi1(BD) I don't get audio or video on to my Samsung LED tv (ue468005). I have a pc connected to the game1 input and there i works fine, and I tried switching cables.

Second question is how do I get dolby digital / DTS / dolby trueHD audio.
On my receiver it either says NEO6 or multi CH

im using all hdmi 1.4 cables

Hope that some of you can help, many thanks

[severnsource]

Originally Posted by Rob100

However my major issue is once I power it off using the web GUI, the iPhone app (or a 3rd party app) or through the telnet interface (using PuTTY or a PHP script) the network seems to die for 2 or 3 mins (sometime more) before I can communicate with the 1912 again and power it back on should I need to. And then when it does power up it's another 40+ seconds wait whilst it goes through the "connecting, please wait, assigning, please wait" procedure.

I've tried setting a static IP rather than using DHCP, but it's the same lengthy start-up.

Is this normal? If so it's a joke. No such issues with my 3808 and I can toggle the power over the network as quick as I want to.

I think it is normal. I use the Android remote app and have had lots of annoying delays, but I just tried switching off and on again immediately and found that it was over a minute before it would respond. I've seen other reports that the network is a bit flaky on this amp.

[sutton8]

jjlp You need to set your source to bitstream the audio that way the amp decodes the sound rather than your bd or game console etc... My blue ray player and ps3 are set to bitstream and the receiver always automatically shows dts master hd, dolby true hd etc...

One of your hdmi ports might be duff. Thats unlucky if it is.

[newirishman]

Originally Posted by Ian Dudley

Depends whether you are talking about bi-wiring or bi-amping. I would agree with you for wiring, but unlike many spurious hifi tweaks, bi amping has some sensible logic behind it and I can certainly hear a difference on my 1907 which is setup this way.

Bi amping is more than just running two sets of wire, you are connecting the bass driver of the speaker to a different power amp than that of the mid driver and tweeter. So the amp doing those has more power available to it as it isn't having to use lots of power to driver the bass. It's a similar process to getting an active sub and setting your speakers to 'small'.

It's not a huge difference, but I can certainly hear more clarrity in the mids and highs for doing it, especially with bass heavy audio, and unless you have very expensive speaker wire (which is a lot more dubious an upgrade IMHO), or unusualy long runs to your mains, it's fairly cheap too.

To the OP, rather than just running two sets of wire from the same posts, you have to find a spare pair of posts you aren't using, e.g. the 6 and 7 posts if you are using 5.1 speakers rather than the full 7.1, or the zone 2 outputs (I think you can use either), then make sure the amp assignments are properly set on the Amp so the pair you have chosen is assigned as a bi amp for the mains. I think you'll hear a difference with this, and assuming you aren't using those additional outputs it's a very cheap upgrade as you obiously already have the wire! Oh and without wishing to state the obvious, make sure the connecting bars are removed on the back of your speakers!

Unless you are running the amps on the edge (or using cables that are not to spec), you should not hear any difference. The 1912 still sends the same signal on all amps - it does not do active bi-amping where the crossover is done before the amplification.
The JBL's are 8 Ohm and quite easy to run (91 db sensitivity), so the 1912 will not have any problems at all driving them, even if you crank up the volume.
As the OP stated, he can't hear a difference - and I would not expect that. The electrical effects of bi-amping are too small in this case to make any difference.

[jjlp]

Originally Posted by sutton8

jjlp You need to set your source to bitstream the audio that way the amp decodes the sound rather than your bd or game console etc... My blue ray player and ps3 are set to bitstream and the receiver always automatically shows dts master hd, dolby true hd etc...

One of your hdmi ports might be duff. Thats unlucky if it is.

Got it working, seems like an power off on the blue ray (power cord off power) and it all works.

Thanks again for you help, super forum

[cantillon]

Have tryed using hdmi 1 and problem still there. Looks like an email to denon surely this should be cured now.

Mike.

[Toppa]

Hi

I bought the Denon - Q-Acoustics package in the summer for about a grand in the summer and have not been dissapointed. Like you I would have liked a bigger speaker system but the room size did not make sense.

In terms of the 2020s v 2010, they are a very deep speaker (size wise) and I did not think they were a big improvement on the 2010s - which I stuck with.

If you do want a better stereo performance from the fronts it might be worth trying to hunt down the newer 2000i system as the 2020is are meant to be a marked improvement on the 2020. That said £699 is a very good price!

[Rob100]

Originally Posted by severnsource

I think it is normal. I use the Android remote app and have had lots of annoying delays, but I just tried switching off and on again immediately and found that it was over a minute before it would respond. I've seen other reports that the network is a bit flaky on this amp.

Thanks, I've spoken with the dealer I bought it from and they have agreed to take it back. I'd rather just stay as I am and get another Apple TV.

[youngbuck uk]

Hi all,

Today i have upgraded the firmware on my 1912, scince ive done this i dont seem to be able to get the on screen display to work for internet radio or airplay, i can get the display up for settings etc but thats it, anyone know why??

also im new to audyssey, the main reason i bought this receiver is because my living room give me such a headache trying to set up my subwoofer, (you can hear it smooth at one end of the room but it sounds tinny and awful at the other) and i thought MultiEQ XT was supposed to deal with these kind of issues, but i cant seem to get it to sound balanced across the room, am i doing somthing wrong when using auto calibration with 8 positions?

any ideas on either of these issues would be greatly appreciated!