[Mouseboy007]

Originally Posted by burjor

could someone please help my problem

Thanks..

Have you identified the issue as being the AVR and not any of your cabling, sources or your speaker?

I would advise starting a process of elimination. For example, swap your centre and left front speaker over.

Does the issue occur on the centre or front left? If it still comes from the centre then it's the speaker. If not, maybe try swapping speaker cables. If the issue persists, it's probably not your original cable. Try disconnecting ALL sources and change AVR sources with nothing connected - still an issue, it's likely your AVR - if it goes away, try connecting one source at a time and see if/when it re-occurs.

If you can at least try various different tests to eliminate components and help identify where/when the issue occurs other forum members might be able to help a bit further. At the moment, in my mind, there are too many variables.

HTH

[68premier]

Originally Posted by 68premier

Yes correct. I haven't upgraded the firmware. I probably should have tried the firmware update myself but too scared I would brick it. I have given a copy of the latest f/ware to the repair shop and told them to update it regardless of what else they find.
Spoke to repair shop today and they are waiting on a new regulator????? to see if that fixes the problem. Surprisingly they have yet to try the f/ware update. I expected that would be the first thing to try.
Hopefully next week will have some news.
I guess the worse that can happen is I'll have 7 ch power amp that could be used somewhere.

Called service place today. Turns out the regulator didn't fix the problem after all. They now want to replace the HDMI board. They are waiting to hear back from HK ( I suspect the Australian distributor) regarding pricing and availability. They said it should be about $280. I have told them to contact me when they hear back from HK as that is getting toward the limit I would want to spend on a repair before cutting my losses. If it's going to be circa $300 and a further month delay I would have to seriously consider getting something else.
I'm already having withdrawl symptoms lol.

[Mouseboy007]

Originally Posted by 68premier

Turns out the regulator didn't fix the problem after all.

lol

I hope you're not going to be charged for the unnecessary work then....might be worth confirming with them what they are expecting to charge you for (parts & labour wise). Seems like they just swapped the part rather than tested the functionality of the existing one. I'd be tempted to pick it up and take it to another repairer......

[burjor]

Originally Posted by Mouseboy007

Have you identified the issue as being the AVR and not any of your cabling, sources or your speaker?

I would advise starting a process of elimination. For example, swap your centre and left front speaker over.

Does the issue occur on the centre or front left? If it still comes from the centre then it's the speaker. If not, maybe try swapping speaker cables. If the issue persists, it's probably not your original cable. Try disconnecting ALL sources and change AVR sources with nothing connected - still an issue, it's likely your AVR - if it goes away, try connecting one source at a time and see if/when it re-occurs.

If you can at least try various different tests to eliminate components and help identify where/when the issue occurs other forum members might be able to help a bit further. At the moment, in my mind, there are too many variables.

HTH

Hi,
did all u said above, the disturbance is coming from any of my speaker & any wire i m using, i think something is wrong with the avr255, the disturbance (a slight click) comes when i switch it off & when the input changes from analog to digital, dunno if this is firmware related as i don't have the latest firmware on it..

Thanks..

[Mouseboy007]

Originally Posted by burjor

Hi,
did all u said above, the disturbance is coming from any of my speaker & any wire i m using, i think something is wrong with the avr255, the disturbance (a slight click) comes when i switch it off & when the input changes from analog to digital, dunno if this is firmware related as i don't have the latest firmware on it..

Thanks..

I'd say you're best trying to put some new firmware on. Its cheap and easy to try.

[burjor]

Originally Posted by Mouseboy007

I'd say you're best trying to put some new firmware on. Its cheap and easy to try.

yup i agree don't have a windows pc anymore wish they supported mac the sound(click sound) only comes when switching off the avr & when changing from analog to digital inputs, thought it must be static disturbance as the avr is running perfect..

Thanks..

[Mouseboy007]

Originally Posted by Mouseboy007

Can anyone confirm if the AVR 255 can successfully pass through a 3D Image to a 3D TV.
I can see from the comments above that it's suggested that a HDMI 1.3 PS3 can pass-through to a 3D TV, but has anyone done this, and what were the results?

From a few other threads I've read, it's conceivable that a HDMI 1.3 Receiver (The AVR 255 is 1.3a I believe) can pass-through 3D TV as long as the incoming signal is a maximum of 1080i and the Receiver's Video Processing options are disabled.

TIA

Okay, weird to be requoting myself, but thought it may help others:

YES, the AVR 255 IS 3D Compatible

I have a Virgin V+ HD Box, a PS3 and cheap Media Player that I use to watch MKV's all connected to the AVR255.

I've recently got a new 3D TV (Panasonic GT30 range).

I can confirm that the 3D Signal from the PS3 for games (not tried a blu-ray) and 3D video (packed as MKV) from my Media Player work fine routed through the AVR 255

However, the PS3 had to first be connected directly to the TV for the 3D Settings to be fully realised - i.e. going via AVR the PS3 doesn't pick up the TV as 3D, but by plugging in the PS3 in directly to the TV and playing a 3D game the PS3 becomes aware of the TV's 3D capabilities and will let me play content in 3D in future - even after rerouting the HDMI cables through the AVR255 first.

The Virgin V+ box works in 3D BUT it MUST be connected to the TV directly each time content is played - at least at the start of playback.
If I plug in the V+ box via the AVR every time I try and play a 3D programme I get a message saying I need a 3D TV. However, if I start playback whilst the V+ box is connected to the TV and then pause the playback, swap the cables (so the V+ box is routed through the AVR) and then resume playback, the 3D footage continues to play. I've been doing quite a bit of reading on this and of overcoming this and it seems to be an issue with the 'EDID' information (definitely worth googling for more info if you're interested!). A rudimentary explanation is that the EDID is like an 'identifier' and contains information regards the capabilities of the connected device. For example, the EDID for my TV should contain information that it can handle the 3D signal and 2channel audio. The AVR will have information that it can accept multichannel audio. When the V+ Box is about to start playing 3D I believe it's checking the EDID and finding that it's connected via the non-3D AVR and not the TV and therefore refuses to play (even though the AVR seems capable of passing this signal through).

The AVR255 also doesn't seem to have any 'HDMI Control' options. As an example, when connected to the TV directly the PS3 will tell the TV to change to 'Game' mode (on of the display presets). When the PS3 is connected via the AVR, the TV doesn't seem to receive the signal to change display settings.

Incidentally, for anyone thinking the simplest solution to the above is to get a HDMI Matrix to take in multiple HDMI sources and simultaneously output simultaneously to two HDMI devices (the TV & AVR), the problem with consumer-priced Matrix'es is that they commonly work on the basis of lowest common denominator when determining the signal to send - therefore connecting the TV and the AVR would most likely result in the AVR only receiving 2Channel Audio because that's what the TV has reported back in its EDID information.

For me, I'm going to either live withi it how it is (because the 3D content on Virgin Media is woeful!) OR possibly buy a simple switch to flick output between TV and AVR for V+ so that I can press a button on a switch instead of have to recable every time I want to watch Virgin Media 3D content.

As mentioned, I've not tried a Blu-Ray 3D Disc yet, although I presume that my worst case scenario is the AVR being unable to determine the audio information and me having to output the sound via optical (at a downgraded bitrate).

Hope my experience helps other AVR255 Owners!

[chic]

i will take a guess in that proper 3d bluray wont work due to the way the 3d video and audio signal is sent along. Most folk can get 3d games to work through a 1.3 amp as well as sky3d or virgin 3d.However with 3d bluray nothing passes, however you may prove me wrong

[Mouseboy007]

Originally Posted by chic

However with 3d bluray nothing passes, however you may prove me wrong

I look forward to trying!!
I'm wondering if I set my audio option on the PS3 to Optical before playing a 3D BluRay whether that would work.

If not then I guess it's a new 1.4 compatible amp or some kind of HDMI switching solution for me!

Better start saving the pennies ...

[68premier]

Thought I would post that the HDMI board fixed the problem. Firmware also upgraded. Everything has been working great since.

[avatar12m]

i have this amp and have just confirmed 3d blu ray through a ps3 to the amp to a 3d projector does NOT work , only solution is to upgrade.

[MrJinx]

I have some questions about the automatic setup EzSet/EQ.
My setup:

AVR255
Front l/r: HK SAT-TS60
Center: HK CEN-TS60
Surround l/r: HK SAT-TS11
Rear l/r: HK SAT-TS60
Sub: HK SUB-TS11

After running EzSet I got these settings:

Speakers
System = 7.1
Submode = sub

Crossover
Front l/r = 80 Hz
Center = 80 Hz
Surround l/r = 120 Hz
Rear l/r = 100 Hz
Sub = Present (?)

Does this makes sense, or should I set all speakers to 80 Hz?
The sub should be 10" I guess, don't know what they mean with 'present'?

Distance
Front left = 3.9m
Center = 7.2m
Front right = 7.2m
Surround right = 5.1m
Surround left = 5.1m
Rear right = 5.1m
Rear left = 5.1m
Sub = 5.4m

What should this distance be, the real distance from speaker to listener, or the wire distance? The value's above don't seem right. For example, Front left/right/center are located at about 3.9m.

[68premier]

In my experience the so called Ezyset EQ result was terrible. About the only thing it did get right was the speaker distances,, Whoop dee doo!
It seemed to apply some Eq that simply sucked any life out of any material I played through it. After about 30 mins I went back to manual set up and haven't felt the need to revisit Ezyset since. I do have new firmware now so who knows maybe it's better now.
Those distances you quoted above seem very strange to me. Did you have the mic at your primary seating position? I would definately break out the tape measure and check them for yourself. The distance should be measured from the listening position to the speaker. This allows for some timing delays to be employed to ensure the sound from each speaker arrives at your listening position at the right time. It will help with the overall sound stage.
As for the cross over points, I have mine set all at 80 Hz. There are various methods that I've read about setting up high and low pass filters. I find I continuously tweak my sub settings. Different material and different sources can require tweaking in my system at times. Particularly if you use the analogue inputs regularly as the bass management is treated very differently (virtually non exsistant) when an analogue source is used.

You haven't mentioned the speaker levels. From memory Ezyset adjusts these too. I found it made a complete cock up on mine. To set mine I bought an inexpensive dB meter and set the level so that each speaker measured the same dB (using test tones) when holding the meter at my primary listening position (aka Pole Position) There are free sound meter apps for smart phones these days however I'm not sure how accurate they are.

Good luck with it all

[Moldiver]

Turned mine on today and the light around the volume wheel has dimmed and started flickering. Any ideas what's causing this problem?

[Ekhangel]

Dear HK-ers,

I think my AVR 255 just died on me...

I've been having some issues with it recently - faulty HDMI handskake with PC, etc, etc... First I thought it was the PC's fault, but then I got suspicious and it appeared I can't even get into the 255's settings. The device is simply not picking "AVR" or "Source selection" signals either from the remote or from pressing the physical buttons.

Some buttons do work, such as volume control, source switching or sleep mode, but that's it.

There was this one and only one moment when the 255 picked the "AVR" button signal and it displayed the appropriate menu on the screen. But this brought no real benefits anyway.

Hard reset (holding "OK" for 5 secs) did not help, too. Neither did firmware reinstall.

I'm having pangs of conscience now, 'cause there was this one moving I had when I didn't properly cover the AVR and some drops of water might have got into the case... I don't know.

If anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate every input. If not, ech... well, my warranty's been gone for good some year ago, so you could at least cheer me up somehow. Like, I dunno... Say it'll be fine, or something. DAMN.

[FreddyT]

ok so i have a h/k avr255
and i plug it in turn it on and only the light on the front come on..
nothing else..

simply put the lights are on and no-ones home..

if anyone has any ideas or a soloution please let me know

p.s. dont know if this was the right area to post

[fgun]

Hello,

I've HK AVR 255. I would like to buy a new 3D Plasma. My 3D source is PS3. Can I pass 3D signal, PS3 to 3D Plasma over AVR255's HDMI. is there any passibilitiy?

Thank You.
Efgan.

[dante01]

Originally Posted by fgun

Hello,

I've HK AVR 255. I would like to buy a new 3D Plasma. My 3D source is PS3. Can I pass 3D signal, PS3 to 3D Plasma over AVR255's HDMI. is there any passibilitiy?

Thank You.
Efgan.

This is unfortunately not possible. The sequential 3D video signal associated with 3D Blu-ray requires an amp having HDMI version 1.4 or higher in order to pass the sequential 3D signal through. Older devices equipped with HDMI versions prior to 1.4 cannot passthrough 3D sequential video.

[JonnyTester]

Okay, I'm not resurrecting a dead thread, I just want to weigh in on the "3D or not 3D? That is the question." debate and hopefully give any 255 owners popping in for a look a bit of a heads up.

I'm a recent newcomer to 3D tv having bought a Samsung UE46EH6030 around 8 weeks ago. Like others, I was under the impression that the 255 wasn't 3D-capable and I had consciously decided not to buy a 3D blu-ray drive, instead opting to build a HTPC with blu-ray rewriter. I had used an Asus P5E-VM HDMI lga775 board in the build and was also told this wouldn't be 3D compliant either. So I was pretty much stuffed. Or so I thought.

I bought some (very) cheap 1.4 HDMI cables off ebay (1.8m for 94p each) and first tried one from the pc to the tv and got perfect 3D from both total mediaplayer 6 and XBMC 12. The only problem was, although the tv could passthrough dd and dts 5.1, the 255 kept repeatedly dropping the signal every few seconds so I had to run a coax cable from the pc to the 255 (its on the latest firmware review as well). After that, everything worked fine.

But I still wasn't happy with the setup. So a few days ago, I connected the pc hdmi out to the 255 and it also was able to handle 3D from both 3D Blu-Ray and MKV files. The only shortcomings are that the motherboard doesn't seem to output dd or dts hd audio, only vanilla 5.1 (the audio setup only allowed for side or rear speakers, not both, playback on xbmc is jerky with no audio) which is a pity as I had been given a set of bookshelf speakers I was hoping to add in as side-rears.

So I'm happy to say, hand on heart, that any avr255 owners hoping to use their AVR for 3D can do so with no problems. You may want to upgrade to the latest firmware though.